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  1. #1
    FEP Senior Member dtmilsap's Avatar
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    Default Turn Signal Problem

    Looking for a little help. Recently my turn signals have stopped working. My lights, tail lights, brake lights and hazards are all working. Interior turn signal indicators are working when hazards are on. Could it be just the switch or do I need to look for other problems.

    Thanks,
    dtmilsap
    Last edited by dtmilsap; 06-17-2020 at 07:20 AM. Reason: forgot info

  2. #2
    FEP Senior Member BMW Rider's Avatar
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    Might be the flasher unit. there are two flashers, one for the signals and one for four ways.

  3. #3
    FEP Senior Member dtmilsap's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BMW Rider View Post
    Might be the flasher unit. there are two flashers, one for the signals and one for four ways.
    I only see one,the one in the pic is the one I replaced. Where would the other be located?

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  4. #4

    Default

    The Hazard Flasher is located behind the panel above the glove box.
    But since you say those work, that is not the problem.
    It may be a fuse. Check and see if your Backup Lights work when the car is in reverse.
    If they do not, then it is that fuse.
    Lots of FREE F/Z info on my site.
    http://myzephyrs.com

  5. #5
    FEP Senior Member dtmilsap's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RED 78' View Post
    The Hazard Flasher is located behind the panel above the glove box.
    But since you say those work, that is not the problem.
    It may be a fuse. Check and see if your Backup Lights work when the car is in reverse.
    If they do not, then it is that fuse.
    Thanks RED 78 will do.

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  6. #6
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Had ts problems several times over the years. High mileage does that. 4 ways always work fine.
    1- RT FT ts bulb socket ground. Corroded, bad ground. Replaced socket pigtail 2006
    2- no RT ts. Replaced cracked ts switch in column 2007. Salvage ts assy from a 1980 Zephyr 7.00.
    3- no RR ts. Bad socket contact. Repaired 2007
    4- no RT ts. Zephyr ts switch broke. Replaced with new 2017.
    5- no ts. Bad flasher (in the fuse box as pictured). Replaced 2018.
    Temporarily installed the Lt blue plastic 224 Ranger's flasher. It fit, blinked too slow, but confirmed bad flasher.

    Motorcraft 552 for mine. TS work great, has the strong 'tick' sound. Metal case.
    Had a yellow plastic 323 installed. I think it is the loud tick version. Did not work quite right.
    Thought they were all the same. Nope. Different ratings to match bulb circuit.

    Bought salvage ts switch as a way to test without throwing new parts in place of good, save money.
    Left it in. Lasted 10 years. Replaced with new AZ Duralast for 38.00. From the color, looks same as WVE.
    Last edited by gr79; 06-19-2020 at 11:01 AM.

  7. #7

    Default

    Yes the different flashers are different. I tried a “no load” flasher in mine and it also blinked too slowly
    79 Zephyr, 4.6L 4v/4r70w swap, with team z front and rear suspension, 8.8 and upgraded brakes and coil overs. Running Holley Terminator X Max.

  8. #8
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Rock Auto and NPD lists #552 as replacement for other numbers both ts and 4 way for many years and brands.
    So temp swapping out a known good 552, say the 4 way into the ts socket, can verify. Even from another car.
    LED bulbs and other circuits, like trailer wiring, may affect operation due to load.

    Tridon looks to be the main vendor.
    Usually have how many bulbs and even cp listed on the part.
    Long life electronic, electro-mechanical are two types.

  9. #9

    Default

    Might be the ignition switch
    Matt
    1984 Thunderbird -- 1989 302 HO, GT40 heads w/ Trick Flow springs, E303 cam, Edelbrock Performer 289 intake, Edelbrock 600 4bbl, 85 Mustang dizzy, Jegs o/r h pipe, Dynomax mufflers, Mustang AOD & shifter, Mustang 8.8 w/ 3.73s, Mustang front & rear sway bars, KYB 87-88 TC struts & shocks, and Mustang 11" front brakes.

    1988 Mustang GT hatch -- Explorer intake, GT40 heads with Trick Flow spring kit, Crane 1.7 rrs, E303 cam, 70mm MAF, 70mm throttle body, o/r H pipe, Dynomax mufflers, Kirban Kwik shifter w/ Pro 5.0 Deluxe handle, clutch quadrant & firewall adjuster, and 3.27s
    (86 Mercury Cougar 5.0, 89 Lincoln Mark VII LSC 5 speed, 80 Mercury Zephyr 4 door) sold

  10. #10
    FEP Senior Member dtmilsap's Avatar
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    I replaced the fuse #5, 15amp. Still no reverse lights or turn signals. I am guessing it is the switch. Will order one next week and replace, hopefully it solves the problem, hate to change ignition switch. Until then will juse the old fashion method when needed.

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  11. #11
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    I guess Ford later changed around the fuse positions from 79 EVTM diagram.
    In 79, 5 is 20a horn, lighter, console clock
    bu and ts at fuse position 15, 20a. Along with low fuel and light out warning
    The two have a common ground point G301 near deck lid striker, hot in Run
    Continuity ck at trans connector C107 in reverse.
    Says no ts operate, ck fuse, replace flasher, ck voltage at flasher.

  12. #12

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 5.0 bird View Post
    Might be the ignition switch
    Makes sense
    Hazards will come on with key off
    but TS needs the key
    79 Zephyr, 4.6L 4v/4r70w swap, with team z front and rear suspension, 8.8 and upgraded brakes and coil overs. Running Holley Terminator X Max.

  13. #13
    FEP Senior Member dtmilsap's Avatar
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    Will ck deck lid this weekend, thanks for info

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  14. #14
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Hazards should operate even with the ignition off since they are "Emergency" flashers. Turn signals only operate with the key on and/or engine running.

    Bad ignition switch can cause all kinds of strange issues, so never a bad idea to replace if you can't track things down. Simple and relatively inexpensive option. I also recommend checking your bulbs and sockets as they can corrode and get filled with grease, crud, etc. and then not make good contact and you have all kinds of strange and crazy things. Make sure the bulbs are clean too and making good contact inside the sockets.

    I would also seriously consider the multi-function turn signal switch as possibly bad. I wouldn't immediately throw that part at it, but definitely something to consider. IMHO more likely it is bad than the ignition switch based upon the symptoms. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

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  15. #15
    FEP Senior Member dtmilsap's Avatar
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    Check ground by striker plate in hatch. Little bit of surface rust from previous sanding.(not me). Sanded to bare metal. Still no ts, will double ck flasher. Like Trey said "bad ignition switch can cause all types of problems " hope quoted correctly. Is original switch to my knowledge.

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  16. #16
    FEP Senior Member dtmilsap's Avatar
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    Checked ignition switch, if push upward on it turn signals work. Have new one being delivered today. Problem is looks like the two tamper proof bolts might be stripped. Any ideas on how to remove?

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  17. #17
    FEP Power Member 4-barrel Mike's Avatar
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    I generally use a cut off wheel to CAREFULLY cut a slot in the head of the bolts, then use a screwdriver to remove.

    Mike

  18. #18
    FEP Senior Member dtmilsap's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4-barrel Mike View Post
    I generally use a cut off wheel to CAREFULLY cut a slot in the head of the bolts, then use a screwdriver to remove.

    Mike
    Don't have cut off wheel handy but can get one. Thanks

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  19. #19
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    How soon one can forget about past posts
    And the mention of no turn signal- ignition switch link in past threads here.
    For some reason kept picturing the ignition switch as the ignition key tumbler part. Duh.

    I remember trying a mini vise grip with needle nose jaws and they did the job without cutting a slot.
    Was able to actually grip the edge of the 'washer' part.
    Some used a hacksaw to cut a slot for a screwdriver.

    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...n-switch-screw
    My post #6 has links. One of the tread posts suggests the screw size as M6 x 1.0 x 10mm pan head torx or hex.
    They do not come with the switch.
    Cant remember if i followed up on the size. We used similar at work for an assembly.
    Plated E10 Torx button head w/threadlocker on the threads
    As a material handler, saved some spilled ones off the floor for some future project at home.
    Turns out, couple years later, they fit the switch perfectly. So never had to buy any.
    Last edited by gr79; 06-26-2020 at 11:18 AM.

  20. #20
    FEP Senior Member dtmilsap's Avatar
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    Thanks for the information, trying to decide if I should buy dremel or use hacksaw blade. Dremel sounds faster and quick, but more $ ,hacksaw more time but less$ . Probably go with dremel always can use another tool for the house. At least that is what I will tell the wife

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  21. #21
    FEP Power Member mcb82gt's Avatar
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    I think I used a hacksaw blade and screwdriver.
    Mike

    Now stang-less.

    88 Cougar 5.0

  22. #22
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    I've had good luck using a pair of diagonal cutters to grab the heads of those. Once you get them turning it isn't bad.

    I had to use a set of extractors on a Volkswagen that I had to remove the ignition switch from for somebody. You drill a pilot hole in the center of the screw and pound the extractor in. Worked well, but you need to be able to get a drill in there. https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-tools/super-out-set

    I always just replace those with a regular socket head cap screw for next time.
    '89 XR-7 5 Speed
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  23. #23
    FEP Senior Member dtmilsap's Avatar
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    Got them out using my wire stripper's, wasn't to bad. Have on order new ones from lmr, may not wait for them not sure yet.

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  24. #24
    FEP Senior Member dtmilsap's Avatar
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    Put new bolts in. They are M6 . Just waiting for switch, missed ups yesterday. Hopefully will arrive today.

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  25. #25
    FEP Senior Member dtmilsap's Avatar
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    New switch in, turn signals work.

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