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Thread: Lesson learned

  1. #1

    Default Lesson learned

    A little over a year ago I Purchased a 1986 mustang GT, this was my first non-carbureted hobby car. There is definitely a learning curve going from carburetors to fuel injection, computers and sensors. I bought my Mustang from an older gentleman whose brother had died and had bought the car brand new. Being that only had 75,000 miles it was still almost 100% stock. So the first thing I did was tuned it up as the car was pretty much untouched. The car suffered from mild idle surge but nothing too bad and it didn’t stall. I decided to take this car to the next level so I threw a TPS switch, IAC switch, bought a smoke machine to test for vacuum leaks ( did discover the EGR was leaking smoke so I replaced) I then bought an MSD coil and New wires. I went from a untouched reasonably well running vintage box body to a car that wouldn’t even stay running when I started it. So I was trying to find vacuum leaks it didn’t exist, studied up on all these sensors, throwing parts at it to no avail. Then I watched a video the other night where a guy said take these aftermarket coils out and put the Ford coil back in. I did so and what an amazing difference. It’s now starts and idles 85 to 90% better than it did yesterday, there still a slight stumble and ever so slight idle surge but she’s back. My point is, I learned my lesson on throwing parts at a fairly sophisticated car. I Purchased a code reader and use that discovered that I do have a couple of codes to address, one is an 18 CM. And I’ve read enough posts on how to deal with that so I’m looking forward to learning How to diagnose and fix.
    I will play with this car this weekend, hopefully I can fix my slightly rough idle/surge, if not, I’ll need advice on how to fix.

  2. #2
    FEP Senior Member tbirdman's Avatar
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    Congratulations on the purchase! Fortunately you've come to the right place if you need any help with the car. There are a lot of members here with a wealth of information, and if you have any issues, I'm sure you would be able to get started in the right direction.
    If they take my stapler, then I'll set the building on fire...

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  3. #3
    FEP Power Member mcb82gt's Avatar
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    I ditched my MSD coil also and went back to Motorcraft. Had a slight miss that is now improved.
    Mike

    Now stang-less.

    88 Cougar 5.0

  4. #4
    FEP Power Member mcb82gt's Avatar
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    What tune up parts did you replace and what brand did you use?
    Mike

    Now stang-less.

    88 Cougar 5.0

  5. #5

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    TPS, IAC, EGR (that was actually bad) three smoke tests for leaks. I did install BBK headers and exhaust system dumping the cats.. that mod was a difference maker on how it pulls on WOT. Brands? Standard, and dont remember the other.. all bought on Amazon

  6. #6
    FEP Power Member mcb82gt's Avatar
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    I like to use only motorcraft pieces for ignition stuff. I think Standard is ok stuff though.

    As long as it was Standard and not some cheesy China stuff in Standard boxes. I'm leery of Amazon stuff though. lol

    Too much counterfeit stuff.
    Mike

    Now stang-less.

    88 Cougar 5.0

  7. #7

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    If you replace the spark plugs for the original E6SE heads, make sure you get them for model year 1986. They are unique to that year. Model years 1985 and earlier, or 1987 and later, spark plugs will not work. GT40/40-P plugs would work but the originals for those application are one step colder than 1986.

    The original spark plug for model year 1986 5.0L Mustang/Capri was Motorcraft AWSF42C. All others were ASF*2C (no W). Yes, it does make a difference.
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  8. #8
    FEP Power Member mcb82gt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FoxChassis View Post
    If you replace the spark plugs for the original E6SE heads, make sure you get them for model year 1986. They are unique to that year. Model years 1985 and earlier, or 1987 and later, spark plugs will not work. GT40/40-P plugs would work but the originals for those application are one step colder than 1986.

    The original spark plug for model year 1986 5.0L Mustang/Capri was Motorcraft AWSF42C. All others were ASF*2C (no W). Yes, it does make a difference.
    Sidebar... so a 86 car with GT40P heads should run the 86GT plugs?....
    Mike

    Now stang-less.

    88 Cougar 5.0

  9. #9

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    D8OE head = ASF42C (carb) or AFS52C (CFI)
    D9AE head = ASF42C (carb) or AFS52C (CFI)
    E5AE head = ASF42C (carb) or ASF52C (CFI)
    E6SE head = AWSF44C
    E7TE head = ASF42C
    GT40 head = AWSF32C (Motorcraft catalog) or AGSF32C (motorcraft.com)
    GT40P head = AWSF32C (Motorcraft catalog) or AGSF32C (motorcraft.com)

    ASF42C = 14mm thread diameter, .460" reach, carbon suppressor, tapered seat, medium temperature, extended tip, Copper core center electrode

    ASF52C = 14mm thread diameter, .460" reach, carbon suppressor, tapered seat, medium temperature, extended tip, Copper core center electrode

    AWSF32C = 14mm thread diameter, .708" reach (.288" short travel), carbon suppressor, tapered seat, cold temperature, extended tip, Copper core center electrode

    AWSF44C = 14mm thread diameter, .708" reach (.288" short travel), carbon suppressor, tapered seat, medium temperature, special extended tip, Copper core center electrode
    Last edited by FoxChassis; 06-16-2020 at 03:10 PM.
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  10. #10

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    Yeah, I've learned the more you mod the car, the harder you make things for yourself. I've made MANY changes to mine over the years that I would NEVER make today knowing what I know now.

    Oh, and MSD is junk.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
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  11. #11
    FEP Power Member mcb82gt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FoxChassis View Post
    DE head = ASF42C (carb) or AFS52C (CFI)
    D9AE head = ASF42C (carb) or AFS52C (CFI)
    E5AE head = ASF42C (carb) or ASF52C (CFI)
    E6SE head = AWSF42C
    E7TE head = ASF42C
    GT40 head = AWSF32C (motorcraft catalog) or AGSF32C (motorcraft.com)
    GT40P head = AWSF32C (motorcraft catalog) or AGSF32C (motorcraft.com)

    ASF42C = 14mm thread diameter, .460" reach, carbon suppressor, tapered seat, medium temperature, extended tip, Copper core center electrode

    ASF52C = 14mm thread diameter, .460" reach, carbon suppressor, tapered seat, medium temperature, extended tip, Copper core center electrode

    AWSF32C = 14mm thread diameter, .708" reach (.288" short travel), carbon suppressor, tapered seat, cold temperature, extended tip, Copper core center electrode

    AWSF42C = 14mm thread diameter, .708" reach (.288" short travel), carbon suppressor, tapered seat, medium temperature, extended tip, Copper core center electrode
    Did the gt40p headed vehicles have a better ignition system? Any benefit to running the hotter 42c plugs?
    Mike

    Now stang-less.

    88 Cougar 5.0

  12. #12
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    No there was no improvement in the ignition system. The change in the plug angle was supposedly for better flame front from the plug which improved the fuel mileage of the engine. That was part of the reason for the plug heat range change.
    ​Trey

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  13. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by ZephyrEFI View Post
    Yeah, I've learned the more you mod the car, the harder you make things for yourself. I've made MANY changes to mine over the years that I would NEVER make today knowing what I know now.

    Oh, and MSD is junk.
    So true. and as I mentioned, This is my first fuel injected fun car.. requires new thinking. next to my Stang sits a 1960 Comet.. simple and fun to drive.

  14. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by FoxChassis View Post
    If you replace the spark plugs for the original E6SE heads, make sure you get them for model year 1986. They are unique to that year. Model years 1985 and earlier, or 1987 and later, spark plugs will not work. GT40/40-P plugs would work but the originals for those application are one step colder than 1986.

    The original spark plug for model year 1986 5.0L Mustang/Capri was Motorcraft AWSF42C. All others were ASF*2C (no W). Yes, it does make a difference.
    Thanks for the tip. I did replace the plugs, I'll check what I installed. How about the wires? I replaced the 1986 date code wires with Red Ford 8.8 racing wires.. are these ok or should I go back to something more stock? The car is 95% better but still has a slight miss.

  15. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by mcb82gt View Post
    I like to use only motorcraft pieces for ignition stuff. I think Standard is ok stuff though.

    As long as it was Standard and not some cheesy China stuff in Standard boxes. I'm leery of Amazon stuff though. lol

    Too much counterfeit stuff.
    Yes me too, lesson learned. Motorcraft!! I guess there is a reason Motorcraft parts are 25% - 40% more. money well spent.

  16. #16
    FEP Power Member mcb82gt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Horriddave View Post
    Thanks for the tip. I did replace the plugs, I'll check what I installed. How about the wires? I replaced the 1986 date code wires with Red Ford 8.8 racing wires.. are these ok or should I go back to something more stock? The car is 95% better but still has a slight miss.
    I have the ford racing wires on my car, haven't had any issues with them.
    Mike

    Now stang-less.

    88 Cougar 5.0

  17. #17

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    Additional information. A friend of mine (retired auto tech instructor) told me to to remove the throttle body and clean it. I did and replaced the gaskets. Now it runs a titch better... I can tell. Its now got a 95% smooth idle (cold) thank goodness.. But it still has a ever so slight miss.. I know its not a new car so not expecting perfection.
    I'm wondering... if I make sure I have the correct plugs for an 86' and maybe someone can tell me if my Red Motorcraft 8.8 racing wires (I don't race my car) are Ok or could they cause a slight miss? help please

  18. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by mcb82gt View Post
    I have the ford racing wires on my car, haven't had any issues with them.
    That's good. I really like the wires and they look great. (How do you keep them clean?)

  19. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by FoxChassis View Post
    DE head = ASF42C (carb) or AFS52C (CFI)
    D9AE head = ASF42C (carb) or AFS52C (CFI)
    E5AE head = ASF42C (carb) or ASF52C (CFI)
    E6SE head = AWSF42C
    E7TE head = ASF42C
    GT40 head = AWSF32C (motorcraft catalog) or AGSF32C (motorcraft.com)
    GT40P head = AWSF32C (motorcraft catalog) or AGSF32C (motorcraft.com)

    ASF42C = 14mm thread diameter, .460" reach, carbon suppressor, tapered seat, medium temperature, extended tip, Copper core center electrode

    ASF52C = 14mm thread diameter, .460" reach, carbon suppressor, tapered seat, medium temperature, extended tip, Copper core center electrode

    AWSF32C = 14mm thread diameter, .708" reach (.288" short travel), carbon suppressor, tapered seat, cold temperature, extended tip, Copper core center electrode

    AWSF42C = 14mm thread diameter, .708" reach (.288" short travel), carbon suppressor, tapered seat, medium temperature, extended tip, Copper core center electrode
    Hi, I did a Motorcraft cross reference on AWSF42C and found AWSF42C-6, 42C6, 42CF4. Which would you recommend for my stock 86' ?
    The AWSF42C are Old Stock correct?

  20. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by FoxChassis View Post
    DE head = ASF42C (carb) or AFS52C (CFI)
    D9AE head = ASF42C (carb) or AFS52C (CFI)
    E5AE head = ASF42C (carb) or ASF52C (CFI)
    E6SE head = AWSF42C
    E7TE head = ASF42C
    GT40 head = AWSF32C (motorcraft catalog) or AGSF32C (motorcraft.com)
    GT40P head = AWSF32C (motorcraft catalog) or AGSF32C (motorcraft.com)

    ASF42C = 14mm thread diameter, .460" reach, carbon suppressor, tapered seat, medium temperature, extended tip, Copper core center electrode

    ASF52C = 14mm thread diameter, .460" reach, carbon suppressor, tapered seat, medium temperature, extended tip, Copper core center electrode

    AWSF32C = 14mm thread diameter, .708" reach (.288" short travel), carbon suppressor, tapered seat, cold temperature, extended tip, Copper core center electrode

    AWSF42C = 14mm thread diameter, .708" reach (.288" short travel), carbon suppressor, tapered seat, medium temperature, extended tip, Copper core center electrode
    Hi, I did a Motorcraft cross reference on AWSF42C and found AWSF42C-6, 42C6, 42CF4. Which would you recommend for my stock 86' ?
    The AWSF42C are Old Stock correct?
    Autozone is listing Motorcraft SP-482.

  21. #21
    FEP Power Member mcb82gt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Horriddave View Post
    That's good. I really like the wires and they look great. (How do you keep them clean?)
    Ive never cleaned them lol. They are still looking good!
    Mike

    Now stang-less.

    88 Cougar 5.0

  22. #22

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    Quote Originally Posted by Horriddave View Post
    Hi, I did a Motorcraft cross reference on AWSF42C and found AWSF42C-6, 42C6, 42CF4. Which would you recommend for my stock 86' ?
    The AWSF42C are Old Stock correct?
    Autozone is listing Motorcraft SP-482.
    I made a mistake in the E6SE head spark plug number. It should be AWSF44C.

    The Motorcraft spark plug part number with a dash and number on the end is the factory set gap. so AWSF44C-6 would be a factory set gap of .060". The AWSF44C plug for E6SE heads in a H.O. engine should be set to .050" gap.
    Last edited by FoxChassis; 06-16-2020 at 03:12 PM.
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  23. #23

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    Quote Originally Posted by FoxChassis View Post
    I made a mistake in the E6SE head spark plug number. It should be AWSF44C.

    The Motorcraft spark plug part number with a dash and number on the end is the factory set gap. so AWSF44C-6 would be a factory set gap of .060". The AWSF44C plug for E6SE heads in a H.O. engine should be set to .050" gap.
    Perfect. thanks.. Ill look for those plugs.

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