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  1. #1

    Default Console Lid Repair

    Anyone try to repair a console lid that has the foam/vinyl cover pulling off around the bottom? I was thinking I could use some epoxy and clamps to bond it back into place. That wouldn't fix the tears, but I think they would be much less visible if the covering was glued back in place, and I could probably live with that. Is there a specific type of epoxy or other glue that would be best for this? Thanks

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    2011 Mustang GT Track Day car
    1985 Mustang Dominator GT

    Previous cars:
    1979 Mustang 5.0 upgraded to a 351W (1987 - 1991)
    1985 Black Mustang GT Dominator T-Top (bought from Bluesfannoz In 1992 sold in 1993 RIP)
    1990 Mustang GT Titanium hardtop w/black leather (1993 - 1994)
    2004 Mustang GT w/a few bolt ons 255 RWHP (2004 - 2006)
    1985 Mustang GT Medium Canyon Red Factory Sunroof 32,000 miles - Sold to the right person (2013 - 2016)

  2. #2
    Lots of FREE F/Z info on my site.
    http://myzephyrs.com

  3. #3

    Default

    Thanks Red. I did some searching but didn't come up with that one. Sounds like the Goop worked. Looking at the Loctite site, they recommend their Stik N Seal product based on the what should I use calculator.

    2011 Mustang GT Track Day car
    1985 Mustang Dominator GT

    Previous cars:
    1979 Mustang 5.0 upgraded to a 351W (1987 - 1991)
    1985 Black Mustang GT Dominator T-Top (bought from Bluesfannoz In 1992 sold in 1993 RIP)
    1990 Mustang GT Titanium hardtop w/black leather (1993 - 1994)
    2004 Mustang GT w/a few bolt ons 255 RWHP (2004 - 2006)
    1985 Mustang GT Medium Canyon Red Factory Sunroof 32,000 miles - Sold to the right person (2013 - 2016)

  4. #4
    FEP Senior Member liv2roc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Cherryville n.c.
    Posts
    774

    Default

    mine was not cracked up the side like that but I used 1/8 rivets to fix mine. just drilled about 10 holes along the bottom and riveted the pad cover to the black plastic part. been fixed for 10 years still good.

  5. #5

    Default

    That's an interesting idea. Hadn't thought of it, but I could see how it would work. I picked up some Goop today. I;m going to give that ago and keep the rivet possibility in my back pocket.

    Quote Originally Posted by liv2roc View Post
    mine was not cracked up the side like that but I used 1/8 rivets to fix mine. just drilled about 10 holes along the bottom and riveted the pad cover to the black plastic part. been fixed for 10 years still good.
    2011 Mustang GT Track Day car
    1985 Mustang Dominator GT

    Previous cars:
    1979 Mustang 5.0 upgraded to a 351W (1987 - 1991)
    1985 Black Mustang GT Dominator T-Top (bought from Bluesfannoz In 1992 sold in 1993 RIP)
    1990 Mustang GT Titanium hardtop w/black leather (1993 - 1994)
    2004 Mustang GT w/a few bolt ons 255 RWHP (2004 - 2006)
    1985 Mustang GT Medium Canyon Red Factory Sunroof 32,000 miles - Sold to the right person (2013 - 2016)

  6. #6
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    SE Michigan
    Posts
    5,141

    Default another similar repair

    Yesterday, repaired 4 vinyl straps on a vintage lawn chair.
    Heating the vinyl allows it to temp stretch about 10% for install, then cools and tightens.

    Inspired and reminded by this thread, repaired a spare ds armrest.
    The vinyl pulled away like the console lid vinyl does. Results in mushy armrest and splitting.
    High temp hot melt glue. The heat helped stretch the vinyl edge too.
    Have to hold in place for a few minutes to keep edge seam straight and keep edge from curling.
    The vinyl and glue cool and everything tightens up a bit.

    Did add a metal plate prior, under the top surface where the elbow rests.
    Now i believe a loose bottom seam contributes more to the top part splitting due to excessive flex.
    Otherwise, how can the vinyl split on the center flat part without any weight on it?

    Scrapped the old foam from the armrest's bottom metal plate channel for a better bond.
    The channel is where the armrest vinyl was and again is secured.
    That crumbly old foam is the same as in the dash pad under the vinyl.
    And seals the hvac assy joints.

    Securing the edge, by whatever means, really firms up the pad.
    A secured edge does not allow the pad to sink as far when pressed upon.
    Wound up swapping out armrests.
    Forgot to paint repair area black but cant see it when installed.

    Have used black rtv to repair fill a small side slit in the console lid black vinyl. Almost invisible.

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  7. #7
    FEP Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Location
    Leon County, FL
    Posts
    104

    Default

    Wat color is yours? I have the grey one from my SVO just sitting around in good shape, I did a shorty conversion to it so I don’t need it

  8. #8

    Default

    Hey ClayBelt, I just saw this now. It's been a little while since I've been on. My lid is grey, but the GT grey is a little different than SVO grey. Not that it matters as I am freshening up all the interior panels. If you're looking to sell, send me a PM. Thanks!

    Quote Originally Posted by ClayBelt View Post
    Wat color is yours? I have the grey one from my SVO just sitting around in good shape, I did a shorty conversion to it so I don’t need it
    2011 Mustang GT Track Day car
    1985 Mustang Dominator GT

    Previous cars:
    1979 Mustang 5.0 upgraded to a 351W (1987 - 1991)
    1985 Black Mustang GT Dominator T-Top (bought from Bluesfannoz In 1992 sold in 1993 RIP)
    1990 Mustang GT Titanium hardtop w/black leather (1993 - 1994)
    2004 Mustang GT w/a few bolt ons 255 RWHP (2004 - 2006)
    1985 Mustang GT Medium Canyon Red Factory Sunroof 32,000 miles - Sold to the right person (2013 - 2016)

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