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  1. #1

    Default Door weatherstripping too thick ?

    I've had issues with the replacement weatherstripping kits seemingly being way too stiff and thick and the doors do not want to close. This has happened on a couple different aftermarket kits now that I have tried.

    Its not an issue with them just being new and wearing in. The stock stuff is quite noticeably thinner and easier to compress and no issues with the door closing with it.

    Anyone run into this before ? Is there a different brand to buy thats closer to the stock material etc ?

    Thanks

  2. #2
    FEP Member 0F0 CBR's Avatar
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    I had that problem when I replaced my weatherstripping. Have to slam the passenger door. Kids never get it closed all the way on the 1st try.

  3. #3
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Agreed that the new weatherstripping does tend to make the doors harder to close properly. Sometimes adjusting the striker bolt will help with the door closing better, other times, not as much. I personally have had better luck when using the Daniel Carpenter brand of weatherstripping compared to the other brands offered. It still seems a bit thicker than OEM, but not the same issues that I have had with other brands.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

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    Current Mustangs:
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  4. #4

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    OK thanks for the suggestion Trey. I have tried to adjust the striker bolts many times but its still just too much to crush it seems.Just doesn't feel right and very hard on the latches and handles.

    The weatherstripping I have is certainly heavy duty and good looking stuff (just too much of a good thing I guess). I have been eyeing up generic weatherstripping on amazon as well. Maybe that will be less beefy. Maybe I'll order a small piece to try first. I also got some weatherstripping off a junkyard car that was in better shape to patch in the meantime and it is not near as thick and tough.

  5. #5
    FEP Super Member NAVYCAT's Avatar
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    my problem was that I installed new rubber on me doors and it still was not sealing, so I had to brace the door with my knee and pull the upper door in so it would seal better. maybe you need to pull it out?
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  6. #6
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NAVYCAT View Post
    my problem was that I installed new rubber on me doors and it still was not sealing, so I had to brace the door with my knee and pull the upper door in so it would seal better. maybe you need to pull it out?
    May not relate to the OP issue, but good point. Unfortunately there is not much structure to the door window frame and over time with owners, pulling and yanking on them, they can be pulled away from the body. I have adjusted many Fox doors just as described to get the upper frame to seal properly and to line up better with the rest of the body work.

    It might be a PITA at this point, but the way I set my striker bolt location is without any door gasket installed. I usually do this immediately after paint and before I install the door gaskets. I adjust the striker so that the door will completely latch and close with the door aligning with the quarter panel. That way I know the door striker is adjusted properly and any change will be related to the new gaskets and not the striker bolt itself. Takes a few extra minutes to do, but makes everything fit together very well in the end. If you can't get the doors to close properly after installing the new seals, you will know they are the issue and can decide what to do from there. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  7. #7
    FEP Super Member NAVYCAT's Avatar
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    But both my doors lined up perfect so messing with the striker or the hinges were not going to happen. It wont take much adjustment on the upper door do get a great seal around the door seals.
    2017 Ford Explorer Sport (DD) 1986 Capri 5.0 Silver/Red
    1969 Falcon XW GTHO coupe (SOLD) went to Australia
    Past 4 eyes-
    4th. 1981 Capri "White" Black Magic I6
    3rd. 1984 Capri RS V8 Black/grey
    2nd. 1984 Capri RS V8 White/red
    1st. 1984 SVO Grey/grey (traded it for a worn out 1970 BOSS 302)
    Both '84 Capri's vin# were 10 away from each other
    U.S. NAVY 1980-2009

  8. #8
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NAVYCAT View Post
    But both my doors lined up perfect so messing with the striker or the hinges were not going to happen. It wont take much adjustment on the upper door do get a great seal around the door seals.
    Sorry I meant to quote "at_the_junkyard" I would have done just what you did on yours. Sorry for the confusion.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  9. #9

    Default

    Yeah the doors fit pretty good up top so that part seems OK.

    Where the stripping seems to bind the most is at the front of the lower door in the hinge area. The slightly thinner stripping works fine though so maybe I just need to find the right replacement stuff...either softer or thinner. Passenger side is worse than driver as well.

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