Bell housing stock fox anyhow is 3.200 from face to ball when assembled
Pressure plate thicknesses vary so this is something to pay attention to when you remove old and replace with new
I know you don't have your old one per thread above. But when you remove stock and replace with this new unknown thinner or thicker pp how do you adjust the difference? This is where I think the stack up up or down has you
If everything is fox and installed correctly then look at fork position when clutch is released and disengaged. Just with car off watch it's action under car while buddy presses and holds pedal in
I believe you're looking for .04 disengagement if you could measure which I'm not sure how you could measure this. You will have it release lower to the floor and the pedal at rest will have free play somewhat similiar to your brake pedal
If you could pull off your side cover and see if your pp fingers are loaded that may help visualize what's going on
Clutch disc spline and New input splines machining could be sticking on you and throw out bearing could be getting tight in spots.. I know you added grease so should be good unless clutch material is sticking to the grease and its gumming it up
I still would just look not remove anything yet
If I removed anything I would remove trans first so I could peak inside bell and remove piece by piece
Make sure your alignment dowels are in as well
PP finger height to clutch face needs to be checked should be near 1-7/8
I would make sure your pivot ball height is checked as well before I bought any parts
you could have new fox bell with bogus pivot ball setup
Think about this
How many foxbodies on assembly line in production? Do you think there's a special area for pivot ball shimming and spacing on the side ?
I don't know the answer but I would doubt it
Once pressure plate tolerance is maintained with machining and pressure plate thickness is maintained and your bell housing thickness I s maintained the throw out bearing is placed on moveable fingers and all of your machining tolerances stack up are in a near perfect geometry
From there it's easy to see why OEM pivot ball is in a fixed position and non adjustable
There's only in/out movement with a quadrant designed for a fixed arc for cable adjustment all fixed components .
Once you change something .100 in either direction (pressure plate) you can see how you need to adjust something for same pedal range outcome
By adding new everything and adjustable setup you should be good to go and this is why I would remove anything just yet
Double check fork relationship and use a piece of string to get the length of your cable by running it alongside it and using tape measure as you lay it next to it
I would use a spacer of some sort on the fork if I found cable too long "just for mock up" and if it's just a cable length issue then that's that
You mention setting your engine back maybe that NEW distance is the difference in your cable setup so you may have to add a spacer or something similiar for it to work
Try using a big socket or nut or something to take up slack for mock up
Just some thoughts good luck
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