Close



Page 5 of 9 FirstFirst ... 34567 ... LastLast
Results 101 to 125 of 221
  1. #101

    Default

    Nope. I've checked several times, and I didn't forget any. Unless there's something else that holds it on besides the shift block thing, the speedo sensor, and bolts at the main housing and tailshaft housing flange.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  2. #102
    FEP Power Member Jerry peachuer's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Royal oak Mi
    Posts
    1,447

    Default

    It's the bolt at the very bottom the belly of the tail housing hides it well

    There's not much of anything that can bind it coming off

    Can you post pic

  3. #103
    FEP Power Member Broncojunkie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Barboursville, WV
    Posts
    1,773

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Jerry peachuer View Post
    It's the bolt at the very bottom the belly of the tail housing hides it well

    There's not much of anything that can bind it coming off

    Can you post pic
    Yep. I don't know how, but that bottom one gets me every time!
    79 Pace Car - 331, t5
    79 Pace Car- 302, 4 spd
    79 Cobra - working on 351w, t5
    82 Capri- working on 302, t5
    82gt - working on 408w, c4

  4. #104

    Default

    Side with the bottom middle one



    Other side



    The problem probably is that I RTV'ed this thing on just last year. Other than that, I dunno.

    Oh, and thanks for sticking with me, guys. I really appreciate it.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  5. #105

    Default

    I found this picture from last year when I swapped the bearing retainers.



    You can sort of see there are shims there that I swapped over with the bearing race, I think. I didn't say anything about it at the time. So that's not helpful. I did say "remind me not to take this apart again" though. Anyway, I know the presence of shims doesn't necessarily make the preload correct, but at least I didn't toss them or anything. As far as I can tell at this point, there is NO preload. But I'll see if I can rig up a way to put a dial indicator on there after I finish this tailshaft housing fiasco, and find out for sure. Maybe things are binding in there with too much preload, and that's causing my difficult shifting problem.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  6. #106
    FEP Power Member Jerry peachuer's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Royal oak Mi
    Posts
    1,447

    Default

    Your bolts appear out so where the top cover meets the tail housing is a tight fit with a o ring that maybe causing your bind try to lightly pry standing behind trans at 10 o'clock and you can see that flat surface outside of the tail housing perimeter you can pry but prying i mean using constant steady pressure in all directions

    Make sure you are in neutral during removal and installation

    Shouldn't matter but it may be changing attitude inside with the shift forks even though it's unrelated to the tail housing

    Maybe heat up the perimeter some just warm to the touch to soften the rtv but not warp surfaces

    I'm not a expert but I will bet 3rd gear is not seated all the way down

  7. #107

    Default

    Yeah, it's in neutral. I'll try heating it up. No more time probably until next week though.

    I decided to buy a new shifter, since mine is worn and a little loose. Something to feel good about, and to eliminate a possible contributing factor.

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  8. #108

    Default

    Thought i'd go outside and sweat my a$$ off and see if I could get anywhere. Here's what I accomplished



    It's stuck like that. I assume that means it's not in neutral, and as long as it's like that, the tailshaft housing will never come off. At least we know it's not that o-ring holding me up. Only other thing I noticed was that when you shift it into reverse, it will go, but it doesn't want to stay there, if that tells you anything. Tried a bunch more times to get the tailshaft housing off, and nothing.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  9. #109
    FEP Power Member Jerry peachuer's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Royal oak Mi
    Posts
    1,447

    Default

    Easier said than done but you need to push to top cover back to tail housing and put your 2 locating screws back into top cover in opposite corners to locate the top cover to the case

    Your top cover has the shift rail and its connected to your shift dog lock out block so you can't be in 2 gears at the same time

    What I believe is happening is your fork fingers are in the sliders and in between gears or not neutral and your tail housing is binding with top cover lifting

    So recap
    Be gentle and slide top cover back to add the 2 locating bolts just past finger tight and this should lower the forks in there position and that will sit square

    Then put a small pick or screw driver in your shifter roll pin hole and find neutral by spinning the input shaft and out put shaft wont turn
    Then pry easily near the top

    dont pry in-between the the case and tailhousing it will marr the non gasketed surface and upset the 2 mating faces

    If you get frustrated walk away
    Each piece is pretty pricey so use finesse not force

  10. #110

    Default

    Okay, yeah I figured it had to go back.

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  11. #111

    Default

    Spent hours today pushing, pulling, and turning that damn shifter shaft. Never did find the secret combination to get the forks lined up for neutral. I'm fairly sure one or both of the forks needs to be moved, but which one, and which way, I have no idea.

    Are you sure it HAS to be in neutral to get the tailhousing off? Getting the top cover off would make all the damn difference at this point. At least I could SEE what I'm trying to line up!
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  12. #112
    FEP Power Member Jerry peachuer's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Royal oak Mi
    Posts
    1,447

    Default

    Not certain but your forks are trapped in a slider groove this is how 1/2 and 3/4 gear options are selected
    Via shift forks which holds shift pads

    Try this

    Push cover all the way over to the right and up

    If you look at the front cover there's a Welch plug thats the support for the long shaft that extends to your shifter it should be tailhousing off first and then top cover

    Top cover goes up sliightly and to the passenger side and up

    Otherwise it won't come free of the sliders

  13. #113
    FEP Power Member Jerry peachuer's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Royal oak Mi
    Posts
    1,447

    Default

    Don't remove that star bit bolt on driver side no need to
    Your most likely caught on that linkage and forks are trapped

    Wiggle the shifter shaft and in/out of out put shaft to shimmy everything and try to get top cover back home

  14. #114
    FEP Power Member Jerry peachuer's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Royal oak Mi
    Posts
    1,447

    Default

    Pm sent

  15. #115

    Default

    Yeah, I think so too. I've been looking at pictures of the underside of the top cover online. I remember I got caught up with this last year too when putting it back together. You have to have all those little tabs and slots just right, including having the forks in just the right position forward or back. The trans is either in a forward gear, can't tell which one, or in two at once and locked up.

    I've gotten the top cover back where it wants to be, but then I can't get the shaft back to 12:00. And then there's only so much maneuvering i can do with it. I can turn it probably from 7:00 to 11:00, and push it in and out, but it won't go anywhere else. At that point, I almost feel like I need to push the cover back out of alignment to try and move the shaft other places. I tried that several times too. Ugh. I can't tell if I'm even going to be able to get the forks back to neutral with the cover moved back to its spot, but the shaft not aligned. I don't know if the key to get it past that magic spot and back to neutral is with the cover pushed forward or not. I also tried lifting the cover up enough to see in there and moving the forward fork manually, but I didn't have any luck. I'm afraid of making things worse. I think one of the gears it's in is 2nd. Not sure, of course.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  16. #116
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Nebraska
    Posts
    4,575

    Default

    Off the top of my head the first thought is that you should be able to tell by input shaft rotations vs output shaft rotations which gear its in.

    1st ..... 3.35:1 or 2.95:1
    2nd .... 1.99:1 or 1.94:1
    3rd .... 1.31:1 or 1.34:1
    4th .... 1:1
    5th .... 0.68:1 or 0.63:1


    As for getting the bleeping thing apart and getting repairs done..... as everyone has said above much to our dislike -- its supposed to be easy.

    That being said, T5's HATE me. The ones I've messed with always grenade faster than the ones I hire someone to mess with. These days I don't bother with them. I look up on T5 guy if my car is up north in Nebraska or somewhere in Missouri and someone else if its in Texas, etc.

    Something about hitting the rev limiter with my foot on the floor with a cheap clutch disc and sticky tires just seems to rub the ol T5's the wrong way. Ah well, its fun while it lasts.

  17. #117

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by erratic50 View Post
    Off the top of my head the first thought is that you should be able to tell by input shaft rotations vs output shaft rotations which gear its in.

    1st ..... 3.35:1 or 2.95:1
    2nd .... 1.99:1 or 1.94:1
    3rd .... 1.31:1 or 1.34:1
    4th .... 1:1
    5th .... 0.68:1 or 0.63:1


    As for getting the bleeping thing apart and getting repairs done..... as everyone has said above much to our dislike -- its supposed to be easy.

    That being said, T5's HATE me. The ones I've messed with always grenade faster than the ones I hire someone to mess with. These days I don't bother with them. I look up on T5 guy if my car is up north in Nebraska or somewhere in Missouri and someone else if its in Texas, etc.

    Something about hitting the rev limiter with my foot on the floor with a cheap clutch disc and sticky tires just seems to rub the ol T5's the wrong way. Ah well, its fun while it lasts.
    at this point, I'd say they deserve what they got.

    That's a good idea though, trying to figure out which gear I'm in using the ratio. Maybe then, I can slip something thin under the top cover and use a rubber mallet to tap the fork into neutral.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  18. #118
    FEP Power Member Jerry peachuer's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Royal oak Mi
    Posts
    1,447

    Default

    Super easy to repair once you know what the difference of .001 and .005 tolerance or what it looks like visually

    You only have 2 snap rings that can be installed in wrong spot and the metal spacers under the cage roller bearings that can upset assembly
    And make sure your fifth gear snap ring is on all the way otherwise it's a unhappy 4 speed

    3rd gear needs the most attention for assembly my opinion

    Rebuild kit needs to be of high quality i switched from old to the new carbon fiber clutches and lmr bearing retainer had to be modified to fit the usa bearing
    The front bearing retainer from lmr was otherwise nice but bearing needs to slip in with nice fit no wiggle so you can shim properly

    800 miles later its best shifting trans I ever felt but you need to file all burrs and use quality pieces
    I'm not a mechanic but I am meticulous and this is something anyone can do with basic tools and a press and 1 special snap ring pliers for inside snap rings

    If you need to buy 1 snap ring id buy 10 because shipping is 25.00 for 3.90 snap ring just saying
    Lol

  19. #119

    Default

    Actually, my intention is not to rebuild. I just need to get the tailshaft housing off so i can get the top cover all the way off so I can reseal the thing with a proper product and check the endplay. The seal on the top cover has been upset, so it has to happen. Pretty much, I ****ed up, so I need to un**** it. I wouldn't have even started taking the top cover off if I'd known you don't have to to check endplay.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  20. #120
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Nebraska
    Posts
    4,575

    Default

    The guys I've had build T5's that have held up decent would put the T5 in 4th gear then use a deadblow on the output shaft. If there is any movement of the input shaft forward they would increase the shim on the input shaft.

    I'm a big believer in 1 piece steel bearing retainers. The T5's I've had with them have been a LOT harder to kill than the ones I had before without them.

    Anything does eventually wear out. The 1352-204 I had made it 200K miles driven in the city every day and ran hard on the highway (100+ MPH) for hours on end most weekends. There wasn't a salvageable gear left in it when it was tore down. They were all simply SHOT. A new gear set went into it and it went down the road to the next guy. my builder said last he heard it was getting punish behind a 408 with some spray on it and he hasn't seen it back in over 5 years. who knows.... not with me driving it. Lol. Pretty much if there's a snap ring that' supposed to hold something you had better weld it or I'll destroy it eventually. But hey -- I have fun doing it.

  21. #121
    FEP Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Lake City Pa 16423
    Posts
    510

    Default

    There is nothing in the trans that will keep the tail section from coming off once you remove the roll pin from the shifter block. It will make no difference what gear it is in. The tail section just slides off of the shifter rod after the roll pin is out. You need to break the RTV seal. If the tail section hasn't budge, it's still glued. If it moves, then something is galled inside and holding. But it just sounds like it is still glued. Hit the damn thing harder at the yoke end with a dead blow hammer until the seal breaks loose.

  22. #122

    Default

    Cool, thanks!

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  23. #123
    FEP Super Member NAVYCAT's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Montebello, CA
    Posts
    3,435

    Default

    DAMN Brad! I cant believe this, Im having problems with the yoke bushings tried 3 so far and I cant get the yoke to fit... it goes in maybe 1/4". then jambs I even bought the special tool to remove and install the bushings but im glad I didnt remove the tail shaft cover
    2017 Ford Explorer Sport (DD) 1986 Capri 5.0 Silver/Red
    1969 Falcon XW GTHO coupe (SOLD) went to Australia
    Past 4 eyes-
    4th. 1981 Capri "White" Black Magic I6
    3rd. 1984 Capri RS V8 Black/grey
    2nd. 1984 Capri RS V8 White/red
    1st. 1984 SVO Grey/grey (traded it for a worn out 1970 BOSS 302)
    Both '84 Capri's vin# were 10 away from each other
    U.S. NAVY 1980-2009

  24. #124

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by NAVYCAT View Post
    DAMN Brad! I cant believe this, Im having problems with the yoke bushings tried 3 so far and I cant get the yoke to fit... it goes in maybe 1/4". then jambs I even bought the special tool to remove and install the bushings but im glad I didnt remove the tail shaft cover
    That sucks. Last year, I put a new one in mine along with a new seal, and... it still leaks. So, you've probably got that to look forward to also.

    It just wouldn't be right if we didn't have a few unnecessary, unexpected time-sucks to keep us from feeling too good about things.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  25. #125
    FEP Power Member Jerry peachuer's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Royal oak Mi
    Posts
    1,447

    Default

    You shouldn't be jamming on anything its straight shot through

    Not sure of the special tool but I made a steel driver or plastic I can share a sketch if you want to make one at local shop

    All I can think of is overseas bearing in a USA made tailhousing and the metric/English conversion and tolerance stack ups

    I'm curious what tool you purchased and how it goes in

    I used a press and had tailhousing off during rebuild

    I completely understand neither of you are looking to rebuild but the tail housing is the easiest part of disassembly

    The sketchiest part is knocking your pin down in the shiffer lug to remove it ..that could go wrong quickly

    Only thing I can think of is the shaft has a burr on the bottom of the hole and its locking up in the casting opening but that's hard to imagine so like dynodon stated above hit it with more effort but use soft hammer

    If you do marr surfaces you can and should file them and use sealer of choice before reassembly


    In regards to that bushing its not suppose to be serviceable per valid trans guru guy because of alignment

    Also I believe a c4 bushing will work as well

    I think your tool is distorting the o.d making it fatter or tapered on one end

    Again my tool I made fits the o.d and pilots on the i.d and presses on with press effortless

    I'm not saying this is only way but it's no different then adding cam bearings
    Same thing kinda

Page 5 of 9 FirstFirst ... 34567 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •