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Thread: 86 CFI Issues

  1. #1

    Default 86 CFI Issues

    I have come to the realization that if i do not fix this car and get it running reliably, I have to get rid of it. that is a tough decision having owned it for over 20 years, but I do not have the money, time, or skill set to swap out the 3.8 for a 5.0.

    It was running fine and then I decided to check the codes to see if it could tell me about a small lingering problem. I must have upset it because it started running like it was 180 degrees out in timing, not idling at all, running completely rich and just horrible. So it sat for a few months. i finally went out and bought a plug in code reader, charged up the battery and got it started...still running like hell.

    i ran it long enough to warm it up for the KOEO testing. plugged in the reader and turned the key on. nothing.....no codes at all. Thought I did something wrong so I cleared out the reader. I started the car up again (just in case I messed up and cleared all the codes from the cars computer0 ran it until I saw the temp gauge move on up 9running like warmed over dog poop) and initiated the test again. Nada....nothing...no codes just a big "00" on the reader.

    As i have said before, I love this car, i have owned it for a LONG time, but I just cannot justify keeping it unless I can get it running.

    Please help....any ideas at all.

  2. #2

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    I’m not a CFI guy but if it was running fine before, might want to check for a broken wire or cracked vacuum hose in the vicinity you were working in.
    Back to basics- air, fuel, spark, etc.
    Something must have happened for it to be running fine and then all of a sudden, not.
    It’s happened to me before, and cheap and easy to check.
    79 Zephyr, 4.6L 4v/4r70w swap, with team z front and rear suspension, 8.8 and upgraded brakes and coil overs. Running Holley Terminator X Max.

  3. #3

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    I will start at the very beginning. It is curious how this thing will not throw a single code out. i attempted twice and nothing. It does run...just ****ty as hell, super rich, you can smell gas in the exhaust.

  4. #4

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    Is it possible, due the the "no codes" issue that the computer may be bad on this car? It is just enought to get it to run extremely poorly but damaged to the point of no codes?

  5. #5

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    Lots of things like that are possible, yes.

    With no codes, either the computer isn't getting power or ground. You can also run codes without the car running. I would start there to see if there are any stored codes.

    Then I would try an efi no start. Pretty good thread over on sbftech.com thst tells you pretty much exactly what to do to pinpoint the problem.
    2 1986 cougars (both 4 eyed and 5.0)
    1 1987 cougar

  6. #6

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    I did a KOEO test after warming up the car. It runs, sounds like it is 180 degrees out in the timing. Yes, the distributor did not move, it is tight. Maybe I will try the engine running test and see if any codes populate.

    Just seems odd that no codes at all on the key on engine off test.

  7. #7

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    To be honest if it was me, I would not be necessarily relying on the codes.
    like was said, if you are not getting any codes, that may be pointing you in the right direction right there.
    If the car runs and sounds like it’s 180 degrees out, I would think that it should be throwing a code.
    like haystack said, verify that the ECM is getting proper power and ground. Your ECM may be bad, but you won’t know that until you know if it is properly grounded and receiving power at the correct places.
    i would also check fuel pressure and ignition timing just to rule that out.
    79 Zephyr, 4.6L 4v/4r70w swap, with team z front and rear suspension, 8.8 and upgraded brakes and coil overs. Running Holley Terminator X Max.

  8. #8

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    Pretty much, the car can still run with an almost non functional computer. My buddy had his car die. I came down to check it out and no codes. On a whim I check the t ps voltages and got 12v. That pretty much told me there was no ground on the computer. Went over to the computer ground (right next to the battery) touched it and the wire fell out. A quick wire twist job got the car running again and got us home.
    2 1986 cougars (both 4 eyed and 5.0)
    1 1987 cougar

  9. #9

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    t ps voltages

    What is this? I am not much with electricity but do have a volt meter.

  10. #10
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    Coffeejoejava I have an 84 CFI. Look at some of my threads. A few of them pertain to CFI and general poor performance issues. I got alot of help here and i learned alot about troubleshooting a CFI.

    I think scanning for codes is the first step. You say you have a scanner. is it this one? This is a breeze to use.
    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/i...waAughEALw_wcB

    You can see on the screen if its linked to the ECM or not.

    Heres a link to another CFI thread that I posted all the steps I go through when troubleshooting mine. my post if number 13.

    Its worth it to keep the car. these CFI's a pain to figure out but they run like a Mercedes when they are tuned just right.

    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...ing-CFI-issues

  11. #11

    Default I have that scanner

    Yep, I bought that exact scanner. I diligently read the manual and tried....nothing. Big "00" in the window. This is straight up beyond my capability to rectify without spending a metric crap ton on parts. I talked with the wife and she said "Just get it fixed"...so it is going to a shop to be converted to carb. I wish I had the technical expertise to do it myself, I have read Walking Talls postings on how he did it but alas, I am not him. I can do suspension, brakes and basic tune up stuff but this? To far down the lane for me.

    Thank you for all the advice folks. It is much appreciated.

  12. #12

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    Check the cfi gasket. Originally they came as plastic with a rubber gasket attached. That rubber wears away creating a vacuum leak. Google that piece, and look for the one that comes without the rubber. I was having idling problems as well on mine. I also switched to an edelbrock open round filter and drilled and attached my oil cap and vacuum hoses. Seems to do better with the less restricted air flow.

  13. #13
    FEP Power Member
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    The cfi is not all that complicated on the outside. It will take the same efforts to get it running as a carb motor. Have you checked the fuel pressure? Have you checked the cap and rotor, check for spark at each plug? Is the choke working properly?

    My 5.0 did not have any codes for a while and then started giving a couple. Not sure what it was but starting with a dead battery may require some run time. We see this a lot with the obd2 in order to get all the sensors working.
    Fox Body/3rd Gen MCA Gold Card Judge
    84 SVO 24K miles, 85 Mclaren Capri Vert. 84 GT Turbo Vert.
    88 Mclaren Mustang Vert 20K miles, 89 Mustang LX Sport Vert,
    03 Mach 1 7900 miles, 74 Mustang II, 69 Mustang, 67 Mustang, 07 GT500,
    14 Mustang CS/GT, 15 F150 FTX Tuscany, 16 F250 Crewcab, 67 Tbird 47K miles

  14. #14
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Coffeejoejava View Post
    Yep, I bought that exact scanner. I diligently read the manual and tried....nothing. Big "00" in the window. This is straight up beyond my capability to rectify without spending a metric crap ton on parts. I talked with the wife and she said "Just get it fixed"...so it is going to a shop to be converted to carb. I wish I had the technical expertise to do it myself, I have read Walking Talls postings on how he did it but alas, I am not him. I can do suspension, brakes and basic tune up stuff but this? To far down the lane for me.

    Thank you for all the advice folks. It is much appreciated.


    If its not reading codes, then the EECIV has an earthing problem to a sensor.

    You go through the basic earths, and check wires until it yields a KOER, or KOEO.

    Every-time it (the ECA ) wont read codes, someone has either accidentally or by age or wear, "effectively" removed a polling sensor part, or a section of the supply to the EECIV sensor is off-line. Voltages are tiny, and just oxidization or the normal aging of parts can do funky stuff.

    In my personal opinion, You don't convert it unless you find out the earthing problem. Period.

    Or you just follow WalkingTalls Page 5 method and do a carb swap.


    Not judging you, its your car, your choice.

    Ak Miller in a 1984 Impco TSB warned everyone that the EECIV is a low reference voltage computer, so cross talk or sensors not working will take it down. That's why you cant read codes.

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