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  1. #1
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
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    Default Need some advice and direction.

    Hey All, hope you all are holding up well and sorry for the wall of text lol
    So I'm running into some problems with my car and I'm not sure what the best way to proceed would be. Keep in mind through all of this that I'm not a mechanic so I'm learning everything from reading this site and advice from people with more knowledge like most of you. Anyways, on to my problem.
    84 gt with a 302 from a 91 converted to carb. Stock 7.5 rear end. Wanting to go dual exhaust and kind of forgot about the brake problems on the passenger side when I was mocking up my flowmaster exhaust. I Was originally wanting to run the 7.5 till I learnt the car better then eventually swap for a 8.8. I do have a 8.8 from a 91 with ford racing 3.73 gears according to guy I bought it off but it's pretty rusty so it would need blasting, paint and new brakes etc. It has brake line along with bracket for that year also. I also have the rear upper brake hose bracket for 86-93 from lmr. Couple pics of it.
    Attachment 132071
    Attachment 132072
    Attachment 132073
    So I guess I'm needing to know what would be the best course of action? Would it be easier to swap the 8.8 in? Or change brake lines over on the 7.5 for now so I can run my exhaust and then switch over when I'm ready? I've already rebuilt the brakes on the 7.5 and the 8.8 would need to be redone.
    What else would I need if I went for the 8.8 swap?
    What else would I need if I stayed with the 7.5?

    Can the pads, drums, springs etc. Just be swapped over to the 8.8? I know I can swap axels but I'm nowhere near comfortable to be doing that. Lol
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  2. #2

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    A 85 GT has dual mufflers with a 7.5 axle. you could use the body to axle line from one with the 7.5, and possibly use the hard lines on the 7.5 or 8.8 with a little tweeking or bend up some new ones.
    The brakes will interchange on the housings. You can change the rear axle without cracking a brake line by removing the axle shafts and unbolting the backing plates and lines from the housing. Then you can hang the brakes from the body while swapping axles.
    Mike
    85 GT - owned since 87

  3. #3
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JKengineering View Post
    A 85 GT has dual mufflers with a 7.5 axle. you could use the body to axle line from one with the 7.5, and possibly use the hard lines on the 7.5 or 8.8 with a little tweeking or bend up some new ones.
    The brakes will interchange on the housings. You can change the rear axle without cracking a brake line by removing the axle shafts and unbolting the backing plates and lines from the housing. Then you can hang the brakes from the body while swapping axles.
    Mike
    I've read about that but the problem is finding the 85 lines etc. I have a 85 car but not will to start ripping stuff off it for this car. Would I not just be able to take new brakes pads, drums and all the rest of the components off the 7.5 and install on 8.8? Swap in then re hook up e-brake cable?
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  4. #4
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    The brakes and everything from the 7.5 will fit the 8.8..... this much is true

    Ive always believed in doing stuff right so you don’t have to do it twice.

    A wire wheel would make fast work of cleaning up that 8.8. A good rusty metal primer and some chassis black will make it look nice. Or you could strip it down and have it powder coated

    I would not put an 8.8 into a car without redoing it first if it came from unknown origins. It has burned me every time I’ve tried that stuff.

    If there is any thought of going 4 wheel disc and/or 5 lug, now is the time for that too. I would stay fox width on the rear axles if at all possible

    Just my thoughts

  5. #5
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by erratic50 View Post
    The brakes and everything from the 7.5 will fit the 8.8..... this much is true

    Ive always believed in doing stuff right so you don’t have to do it twice.

    A wire wheel would make fast work of cleaning up that 8.8. A good rusty metal primer and some chassis black will make it look nice. Or you could strip it down and have it powder coated

    I would not put an 8.8 into a car without redoing it first if it came from unknown origins. It has burned me every time I’ve tried that stuff.

    If there is any thought of going 4 wheel disc and/or 5 lug, now is the time for that too. I would stay fox width on the rear axles if at all possible

    Just my thoughts
    Thanks for your thoughts. I could just wire wheel it then paint it myself although I did get a decent price on sandblasting and painting. Just drop it off and pick it up.

    Don't have any thoughts of going disk or 5 lug as I just want to get the car running and driving. Only reason I'm looking at putting that 8.8 in is because of the dual exhaust and the brake line issue. Thought it would be easier than trying to find all the parts to mod the 7.5. To be honest I dont know even how the 7.5 is as the car was not running when I bought it. So either way it's a crap shoot.
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  6. #6
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    As someone who recently did this, I'd go ahead and put the 8.8 in it. I had fresh brakes on the 7.5, unbolted backing plates and brakes, and lines and put them on the 8.8. The 8.8 will have a different jumper hose bracket than the 7.5 For me, I had just bought the new jumper hose, so then had to buy the 8.8 jumper hose and body bracket. I went from the 2.73 to a 3.55, so much more fun!

  7. #7

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    Great info here
    thanks everyone for posting, as I will be doing this pretty soon myself.
    Finding a cheap 8.8 of the correct year is proving difficult. I really only need an empty housing, as I have fox length axles, diff and FMS 4:10 gears to go in, as well as new bearings and seals. I was going to drop it off at a shop and have it gone through and set up. Like erratic50 said, would not just put in a used axle without going through it..
    79 Zephyr, 4.6L 4v/4r70w swap, with team z front and rear suspension, 8.8 and upgraded brakes and coil overs. Running Holley Terminator X Max.

  8. #8
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 85WhiteGT View Post
    As someone who recently did this, I'd go ahead and put the 8.8 in it. I had fresh brakes on the 7.5, unbolted backing plates and brakes, and lines and put them on the 8.8. The 8.8 will have a different jumper hose bracket than the 7.5 For me, I had just bought the new jumper hose, so then had to buy the 8.8 jumper hose and body bracket. I went from the 2.73 to a 3.55, so much more fun!
    Thanks for the reply. Excuse my ignorance but how do you get the backing plates off without removing the axels?
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  9. #9
    FEP Super Member cb84capri's Avatar
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    You can figure out pretty easily by popping the cover and looking inside to tell whether or not you need to spend money rebuilding it or not. You are going to want to change the fluid out after sandblasting it anyways.

    Cale

  10. #10
    FEP Super Member cb84capri's Avatar
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    Axles need to come out to get the backing plates off, unless of course you are a magician.

    Cale

  11. #11
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cb84capri View Post
    Axles need to come out to get the backing plates off, unless of course you are a magician.

    Cale
    Lol that's what I figured but as I'm not to knowledgeable on this stuff I figured maybe there was something I was missing lol
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  12. #12
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
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    Ok so next question would be what all do I need to get to adapt the 8.8 brake lines to my 84 car? I removed the old brake lines and bracket that held the t fitting because they were rusted and shot. I will replace both those with I'm assuming 86-93 8.8 rear end lines and bracket with the steel hose and fitting?
    Attachment 132076
    Attachment 132077
    Do I need anything else to be able to connect to my brakes on the 84 and be safe with my dual exhaust?
    I also have the 86-93 rear v8 upper brake hose bracket from lmr for the dual exhaust conversion.
    Last edited by Sask84gt; 04-18-2020 at 08:30 AM.
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  13. #13
    FEP Power Member conmech's Avatar
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    For what it's worth, I have years of experience in corrosion minimization (U.S. NAVY) and have ran tests with various products. The best bang for the buck, in my opinion, is CORROSEAL. Sand blasting is not needed, if directions are followed. No chance of abrasive material getting in the diff. Do the 8.8 swap and get things done right the first time.

    http://www.corroseal.com/

    It is a rust converter that works. I tested on a piece of sheetmetal for over a 2 year period. Wire brush loose rust off, apply it (brush, roll on, spray) ensuring that it is applied to specified thickness. Let cure for 24 hours and paint. You can prime if wanted, but not required as it is a sealer and can be painted on directly. I picked up a gallon from Home Depot online for around $50 (can't recall if included shipping or if extra). This test was in 2017....... NO CHANGE to the metal. Hope this helps.
    Last edited by conmech; 04-18-2020 at 10:15 AM.
    conmech - aka Marshall
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  14. #14
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    That's all the brake parts you will need. Yes, you will need to pull the axles to swap the brakes over, but you'll want to put fresh fluid in that rear end anyway. It's also much easier to clean and paint bare. I'm not sure on the 84, but my 85, I only had to do a slight bend at the end of the body hard line to get it to mate to the later fitting bracket.

    Interesting on the corroseal, i've used many convertors, I'll have to try that one out.

  15. #15
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 85WhiteGT View Post
    That's all the brake parts you will need. Yes, you will need to pull the axles to swap the brakes over, but you'll want to put fresh fluid in that rear end anyway. It's also much easier to clean and paint bare. I'm not sure on the 84, but my 85, I only had to do a slight bend at the end of the body hard line to get it to mate to the later fitting bracket.

    Interesting on the corroseal, i've used many convertors, I'll have to try that one out.
    Thanks, I'm also reading and i think i need the intermediate brake line that runs from front to back. Relocates line to center of car instead of along the passenger side. Can anyone confirm this?
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    85 Gt

  16. #16
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    Yes, the later model cars have the brake line running down the center tunnel. That will work with the 8.8 and dual exhaust. There's a coupler up at the RH front fender area where you can connect the replacement line to.

  17. #17
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by conmech View Post
    For what it's worth, I have years of experience in corrosion minimization (U.S. NAVY) and have ran tests with various products. The best bang for the buck, in my opinion, is CORROSEAL. Sand blasting is not needed, if directions are followed. No chance of abrasive material getting in the diff. Do the 8.8 swap and get things done right the first time.

    http://www.corroseal.com/

    It is a rust converter that works. I tested on a piece of sheetmetal for over a 2 year period. Wire brush loose rust off, apply it (brush, roll on, spray) ensuring that it is applied to specified thickness. Let cure for 24 hours and paint. You can prime if wanted, but not required as it is a sealer and can be painted on directly. I picked up a gallon from Home Depot online for around $50 (can't recall if included shipping or if extra). This test was in 2017....... NO CHANGE to the metal. Hope this helps.
    Thanks for the info! I'm actually rethinking my idea to sandblast. Worried about sand getting in places it shouldn't and not sure how careful they would be. I took my angle grinder with a wire wheel on it and did a test area. Rust is pretty deep but I'm thinking I will do this and then coat with por 15, eastwoods rust encapsulator or maybe the product you recommend if I can find it. It be nice if I could get it looking smooth but I dont think it's possible.
    Attachment 132102
    Attachment 132103
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    84.5 Gt T-top
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  18. #18
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
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    So question, when switching brake lines for dual exhaust and 8.8 can I just unhook soft line from here when removing old 7.5 then connect some brake line to the hard line on the other side that will run up to the upper brake hose bracket? That would eliminate having to replace the whole intermediate lines and use my existing 84 brake lines?
    Attachment 132552
    Attachment 132553
    Last edited by Sask84gt; 05-10-2020 at 12:46 PM.
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    84.5 Gt T-top
    85 Gt

  19. #19
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Simple answer is Yes you can. As long as your fittings and flares are good and everything seals with no leaks then you will be fine. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

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  20. #20
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    Simple answer is Yes you can. As long as your fittings and flares are good and everything seals with no leaks then you will be fine. Good Luck!
    Perfect, Thanks Trey
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    84.5 Gt T-top
    85 Gt

  21. #21

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    I think when I do mine, I might just make a new intermediate line from the cowl, but instead of going through the rear pass side like stock, I’ll make that line longer and go through the center instead and either get a plug for the old hole or weld it up.
    My car has zero interior in it so easy for me to say lol

    But if you have full interior installed and just want to get it up and running, making an extension to the existing brake line will work.
    But as wraith pointed out, you are now adding more potential leak points to the system.
    79 Zephyr, 4.6L 4v/4r70w swap, with team z front and rear suspension, 8.8 and upgraded brakes and coil overs. Running Holley Terminator X Max.

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