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Thread: Engine swaps

  1. #1

    Default Engine swaps

    1988 Sport Coupe v8, I have an 89 Mark 7 5.0HO that i am mildly building(b303, GT heads, ported intake, and rockers) nothing to crazy. I have rebuild kit picked Federal Mogul Premium kit p#MHP173-221. I know that the swap will have some dead plugs from the Lincoln to the bird, and that the computer may have to be repined, But is there anything else I should be worried about?

    Any help is good help

  2. #2

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    Re pin should only be necessary with a mass air upgrade. All marks are sd.

    The cross member is different for duals. The engine sensors may need swapped out depending on which dash combination you have. The mark 7 is more like a cougarbird then a mustang.

    Let us know how it goes.
    2 1986 cougars (both 4 eyed and 5.0)
    1 1987 cougar

  3. #3

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    I do plan on making it mass air, i have a dual exhaust cross member, and it is the analog dash. The mass air is a plan down the road, should help out with how the motor will be built and then tuning that will probably have to go along with the B303 cam, ported heads, 70mm tb/ported plenum, and possibly larger injectors. Its a mild build something that is still drive able and very reliable. Just want to get the old 150 horse cinder block out and have some fun. I will keep updates as often as possible.

  4. #4

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    I own an 87 LX Tbird 5.0. Long term project for sure but I’m planning a similar engine build. Post up some pics of your Bird when you can.

  5. #5

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    If you have to spend money for FI, why waste it converting to thirty year old MAF junk? Why not get something like a Holley Terminator X standalone with far more capability?

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by 4eyedblind View Post
    If you have to spend money for FI, why waste it converting to thirty year old MAF junk? Why not get something like a Holley Terminator X standalone with far more capability?
    I like the look of the of the factory intake, I understand where you are coming from. I have been told that it would be the easiest thing to do, and that it would be super easy to tune and add to.

  7. #7

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    No wideband, no joy. Plus, EECIV stuff has such low resolution, you just can't really make real power with it. Something modern will add hp without changing any hard parts, just from the higher resolution and quicker zone in on the right tune.

  8. #8

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    I will keep it in mind, may even consider a MEGASQUIRT system. I have played with a few in the past.

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by 4eyedblind View Post
    If you have to spend money for FI, why waste it converting to thirty year old MAF junk? Why not get something like a Holley Terminator X standalone with far more capability?
    He isn't actually converting anything. He is doing a plug a play upgrade using factory parts. There is no "upgrade" going from eec4 to eec4. He is just using mustang junk instead of tbird stuff because even stock it is a 75hp upgrade even stock with no changes
    2 1986 cougars (both 4 eyed and 5.0)
    1 1987 cougar

  10. #10

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    He's talking conversion to MAF, which means buying the MAF computer, MAF sensor and rewiring. That's a waste of time...and money.

  11. #11

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    I can get all the MAF stuff, computer, and sensor for nothing from a donor 93 5.0 Mustang. The time aspect of this project is not too important, I know it is going to take time to do the motor build, play with wires and get it all working the way it is intended.

  12. #12

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    I can get all the MAF stuff, computer, and sensor for nothing from a donor 93 5.0 Mustang. The time aspect of this project is not too important, I know it is going to take time to do the motor build, play with wires and get it all working the way it is intended. 

  13. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by EverydayBirdStuff View Post
    I can get all the MAF stuff, computer, and sensor for nothing from a donor 93 5.0 Mustang. The time aspect of this project is not too important, I know it is going to take time to do the motor build, play with wires and get it all working the way it is intended. 
    I do not intend to make the car MAF but ir it comes down to it I will

  14. #14

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    From what I have read as long as you use an HO spec cam you can stay speed density. When you start getting a little more aggressive cam , that’s when MAF starts to become necessary. I may be wrong on that though.

  15. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by ISTLCRUZ View Post
    From what I have read as long as you use an HO spec cam you can stay speed density. When you start getting a little more aggressive cam , that’s when MAF starts to become necessary. I may be wrong on that though.
    I have a 91 GT Mustang with a B303 and it runs fine. Also in that regards it was not degreed properly either, may have some affect on it. Going to try the B303 and see what happens

  16. #16

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    The almighty B generally works fine with SD. Doesn't make alot of power but, it's at least a little better than the HO. MAF on stock for stock stuff tends to slow the car down a touch. The SD cars, with the usual timing tweaks always seemed to have a little more jam than the MAF cars. We all had em, back in the day so, I had a decent sample size.

  17. #17
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by EverydayBirdStuff View Post
    I have a 91 GT Mustang with a B303 and it runs fine. Also in that regards it was not degreed properly either, may have some affect on it. Going to try the B303 and see what happens
    The 91 Mustang is a MAF setup and not SD so running the B303 cam shouldn't be an issue. As stated above the SD computer doesn't generally like cam changes.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
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    Current Capris:
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  18. #18

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    So The B cam degreed properly would not affect the SD to bad. Just anything past that and there will be issues. Other than the questions I have asked that’s about all. I will post updates as the H.O. comes together. Almost forgot the B cam is degreed retarded 3 degrees correct?

  19. #19

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    Sd computer strategy uses nearly 100% map signal to do fueling. If you have little vacuum, the car will run rich. When I was a kid, I though it was funny to unhook my map sensor vacuum line and floor it while droving around. It would run so rich that the trip comouter would read 2mpg. The car would shoot black smoke with an occasional backfire and leave black sooty stains at every stop sign under the tail pipe.

    What kills sd with the cam is vacuum at idle. You really need to be at about 18 or 19 vacuum or it will run super rich and then the computer will freak out.
    2 1986 cougars (both 4 eyed and 5.0)
    1 1987 cougar

  20. #20

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    Would the Lincoln mark 7 computer work with the eec plug as is or would I have to repin the plug?

  21. #21

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    I think I read somewhere the Lincoln computer will work.( Plug & Play) I’ve heard it will limit you on top end at around 105-110mph?

  22. #22

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    SD wise, there are several computers out there that are JUNK and a few that yield good results.

    VM1 followed by VR1 and DS1 are all H.O. firing order. VM1 is by far the most aggressive and is the one I’ve observed most often in early SSP cars, etc.

    As far as cam goes, the big thing that pisses SD off is messing with the LSA of the cam vs the stock H.O. piece. Ford Motorsports made a cam upgrade back in the 80’s and early 90’s before MAF was a thing. It was called B302. Exact same lift numbers as the B303 but tweaks to the rest of the specs to make it align with the LSA requirement.

    Not really worthwhile at all. Over 400 HP can be extracted with a stock H.O. cam and great heads like AFR165.

    These days the best path to a better cam situation with SD is 1.7:1 rockers. The beauty is it’s easy to do and easy to undo without tearing the front cover off.

    Get a good intake while you are there. Explorer/Mountaineer flows enough to max out stock heads. The stock HO intake only flowed 110 on 2 ports and 130 on the other 6. The heads usually flow 155 -160. Frees up a ton of power and give you a much broader usable RPM range. Should pull to 5800.

    Or is your tired of boiling hides out of a corner and want more power up top a slightly worn timing set gives up a little cam timing. It works well with an intake like the Typhoon EFI.

    A good set of shorty headers or porting the stock junk is required of course

    Ive basically described the current setup on my car. It surprises the hell out of anyone who rides in it.

  23. #23

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    I think it would be good if I gave my whole parts list.
    •Federal Mogul rebuild kit with flat top forged pistons
    •B303 cam Ford Racing
    •1.6 Rockers(I have a set of 1.7, but don’t know how they will run)
    •18lb injectors
    •Comp Cam Valve Springs matched to the B303
    •Ford Racing Hydraulic Lifters
    •BBK 70mm Throttle body and spacer with matched plenum
    •Stock 1989 Lincoln Mark 7 EEC
    If there is anything else or anything that I need to worry about let me know

  24. #24

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    hope you mean 19lb

    Mark 7 tune is not a good one afaik. Could check factory ratings but it will be soft vs a Mustang for sure

    if you add a B303 and stay SD it will run like crap due to lack of LSA for a SD setup

    Youre only at 0.480” lift with a B303 and 1.6:1 rockers

    A stock HO cam with 1.7:1 rockers is 0.47175” lift

    For those not paying attention — the actual difference in lift is 0.00825. Also there is barely any added duration at 0.050 on a B cam vs a stock HO. It actually LOSES power vs a stock HO cam with 1.7:1 in most combos. Even if the car is MAF so it can run right.

    Get the H.O. rering kit with cam and some roller tip 1.7’s and call it a win because you’re avoiding SD fits.

    70MM is larger than needed but will work.

    Good luck

  25. #25

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    Quote Originally Posted by erratic50 View Post
    hope you mean 19lb

    Mark 7 tune is not a good one afaik. Could check factory ratings but it will be soft vs a Mustang for sure

    if you add a B303 and stay SD it will run like crap due to lack of LSA for a SD setup

    Youre only at 0.480” lift with a B303 and 1.6:1 rockers

    A stock HO cam with 1.7:1 rockers is 0.47175” lift

    For those not paying attention — the actual difference in lift is 0.00825. Also there is barely any added duration at 0.050 on a B cam vs a stock HO. It actually LOSES power vs a stock HO cam with 1.7:1 in most combos. Even if the car is MAF so it can run right.

    Get the H.O. rering kit with cam and some roller tip 1.7’s and call it a win because you’re avoiding SD fits.

    70MM is larger than needed but will work.

    Good luck
    So if I leave the stock H.O. cam and just change the rockers to 1.7:1 it would be better then the b303 and the 1.7 rockers? Also i got the computer from the lincoln it is D9S E9SF-12A650-S1A

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