86 capri window casing(pics)

[1986ezspin1]

I was going to sell it but now im going to refurbish it I need help locating replacement casings and rubber or any ideas on repairing theses

[wraithracing]

The weatherstripping the door window glass rides in is called the door channel run weatherstripping.

https://lmr.com/item/LRS-21596PR/197...therstrip-Pair

https://www.foxresto.com/1979-93-Mus...-p/1179001.htm

https://www.foxresto.com/1979-93-Mus...-p/1179002.htm

https://www.npdlink.com/product/run-.../166179/151031

Personally I recommend Daniel Carpenter weatherstripping when possible as it seems to be the most like the original in terms of fit and quality. Much if not not most of his items are Ford Licensed also.

I would also recommend a complete weatherstripping kit for your Capri, door seals, door channel runs, exterior dew wipes, hatch gasket, firewall weatherstripping, hood bumpers, hatch bumpers, etc. For a regular hatchback the overall cost is reasonable, but makes a HUGE difference is how the car feels, sounds, and fits together. Well worth the $$!

As for all the metal trim around the windows and quarter glass, all of those items can be removed if needed and refinished. Care needs to be taken when removing the trim items as they are thin metal and can be bent, twisted, etc. if mishandled. I do recommend keeping the original dew wipe metal trim and transferring the new dew wipe weatherstripping over. The new dew wipe metal trims are the same quality and fit of the OEM pieces in my experience. Hope this helps! Good Luck!

[WilliamCapri]

I replaced my door seals last year with the LMR parts:

https://lmr.com/item/LRS-20708A-K/19...therstrip-Pair

They work but are a little thick or stiff. The doors need an extra strong pull to shut tight. They seals are settling down a bit after a year. LMR shows an exact fit set as well. Not a hard job to replace them.

I did the window run channels and the dew wipes this year. LMR parts again. The dew wipes came in bent and the powder coat was cracked. I found that the color of the dew wipe frame was more black than gray and was about to sand, flatten, fill and paint. When I was masking the rubber I found, like Wraith says, the rubber is on a second frame and clips into the lower frame. A little work with a screwdriver and it all came apart. Put the rubber in my original frames and all is good again there.

The run channels were another story. Door cards off, windows down, mirrors out, pull the old run channels out piece by piece because they were so brittle. Putting the new ones in is a bit of an ordeal. Getting the channel into the door then getting the outer lip to stay out, without cutting it, takes some time, effort, and four letter magic words. Here is where the joy of old car ownership comes in though. I had my battery on a tender all winter. While doing the channels, I only moved windows a few times. Once the channels were in, the motors would not close the windows. Channels too tight? I spent a couple of hours trying to beat the channels deeper into the doors and trying to widen them. At one point I looked at the dome light and it was somewhat dim. Tender was on the battery. Hmm. Checked voltage without the tender - 3.5V. Oh. Time for beer. Put the tender back on and gave up for the day. Worried about getting a new battery overnight. Date sticker said 5/14. Probably due to be replaced. Next day, Tender off, voltage was 12.7. Oh. Windows went up and down like nobody's business. Took it out for gas and the wind noise is quite a bit less. Now hoping that car show season doesn't get delayed too long.

[wraithracing]

In my experience 2 paint sticks taped together and sand/round off the square edges on the end makes a perfect too for seating the door channel runs into the door frames. If too thick, then a HD/Lowe's 5 gallon single paint stick cut down works too. Start at the back corner where there it the 90 degree molded bend in the channel. insert that first and then start towards the front of the door. Occasionally a bit of silicone spray can help with getting the channel in and seated, but most of the time I can do it without. I generally install the channel all the way on the front down inside the door, then remove the channel bracket at the front (2) 7/16 bolts, drop the weatherstripping into place and slide the bracket over the weatherstripping and then reinstall the bolts. The rear of the weatherstripping can generally be pushed into position with the paint sticks and then run the door glass back up and fully seat the whole weatherstripping. Then double check the ends of the weatherstripping down inside the door shell to make sure they are positioned properly and seated fully.

Once installed I raise the door glass fully and even give it an extra push up while running the motor to make sure the channel is seated. I allow it to sit in the sun if possible for a day or two before lowering the windows again. Hope that helps.

[1986ezspin1]

thanks!

[1986ezspin1]

Thanks!