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  1. #1

    Default Questions about sn95 brakes on 1983 Capri

    I have 94 spindles/rotors/etc mocked up on my 83 Capri currently and after adding caster/camber plates finally feel pretty good about the angles of things. I have a caster/camber gauge that I'll be using to confirm but its in the ball park.

    Now I'm looking for input on the rubber lines to connect to the hard lines. I've searched this site and found a lot of dead links on the subject without clear answers. Several mention going to aftermarket braided lines but I don't think this car will get to a level of need for that. So my first Hope is to find something by application that I can pickup at any big box car parts store if possible.

    I'm looking for answers for both the front and rear. On the front I have 1994 v6 Mustang spindles mounted on stock 83 Lower Control Arms. Currently I have the original 94 brakes which looked to be serviceable but not great. I'm probably not going to mess with them but don't know if I'll choose a different rotor/caliper combo like say a 98 Cobra, etc. Looking for suggestions that balance cost pretty heavily against performance. If you know what rubber lines that connect to stock 83 Capri brake lines will also fit your suggestion that would be amazing!

    On the rear I will be using the flipped sn95 mounts because I have all these parts already from a 98 Mustang I took apart a few years ago. The rear brakes were brand new on the car when I took it apart. I purchased Ranger Axles this past month and they are installed a 1988 8.8 Mustang Rear axle I rebuilt and installed in the Capri back in 1997 after blowing up the 7.5. The car is an 83 Capri RS Turbo - it had a single exhaust and thus I believe had a different hardline setup than the later model 4-eyes with duals.


    1. From what I've been reading it seems a Lincoln Town Car Master Cylinder with a 1 inch bore is preferred along with gutting the factory proportioning valve. Anyone know what year Town Car I should tell the folks at my local parts store?
    2. Main question is advice for rubber lines connecting to the existing hard lines. What make/model to cross reference or part numbers is fine as well.
    3. Bonus points for advice on best front disk and caliber combo for improved stopping but cost effective.


    Many Thanks - stay safe out there!

  2. #2
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Master cyl you will like imo is M1858

    you will need one adapter at the hard lines or to redo the fitting

    passenger side front hard line is different on four eyed fox vs SN. LMR sells an adapter or you can redo the fitting and re-double flare the line

    I did not find it was any cheaper going rubber vs braided lines so I went braided

    I went to 99GT style dual piston calipers. They have been an antichrist - I’ve replaced one every year since I did the brake swap. Many report no stopping improvement with those vs single piston 60MM off the earlier SN’s

    Baer makes a nice slotted and drilled rotor, great improvement with some hawk pads

    My four eyed fox can stop vastly shorter than any other vehicle I own including my new Continental with the basic setup I mentioned. Saved my bacon big time a few years ago.

    I still wake up about to have the wreck I narrowly avoided at times when I’m not waking up having flash backs to other traumatic experiences. Is what it is. I frequently only sleep a few hours a night, been that way for decades.

  3. #3
    FEP Power Member conmech's Avatar
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    Personally, in regards to rotors.... I have been using rotorpros.net for years. Rich is good people to work with. My 83 RS with 94 GT brakes (front and rear) will have cross drilled, vented and zinc coated rotors with performance low dust pads.

    2 year warranty for cracking and warping. Cant beat the pricing either.
    conmech - aka Marshall
    Pending build-1983 Mercury Capri RS NOT staying as it left the showroom floor......
    Sonic blue pearl, sand beige, netted halos, FR500 wheels and shiny under the hood.

  4. #4
    FEP Power Member conmech's Avatar
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    SN95 rotors

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    conmech - aka Marshall
    Pending build-1983 Mercury Capri RS NOT staying as it left the showroom floor......
    Sonic blue pearl, sand beige, netted halos, FR500 wheels and shiny under the hood.

  5. #5

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    Go Cobra setup and don't look back. The confidence it gives is priceless, and it looks good.

    FWIW, I'm running 94-98 38mm twin piston calipers up front, stock Cobra/GT calipers rear (non-slotted/drilled rotors FR&R), stock style 94-95 Cobra 15/16" master cylinder with the stock 86'GT booster and pedal feel/effort is spot on. It'll make your eyeballs fall out.....repeatedly.
    Jeremiah

    1986 Mustang GT 5spd, 3.27's
    PimpXS ECU/Android Single DIN Touchscreen
    SN95 Cobra Brakes/SN95 Front LCA's/Axles/S197 Wheels
    1998 Explorer Engine/Stock HO Cam 281rwhp/326rwtq

  6. #6
    FEP Senior Member
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    I agree with Jeremiah. i was originally going to upgrade to the V6/GT brakes with maybe the thought of upgrading to the Cobra setup down the road. I decided to just do it all right off the bat. I knew if I put the V6/GT setup on the car that it would definitely be a nice upgrade over the stock system, but I'd always wonder in the back of my mind what the Cobra setup would feel like. If you shop around and are crafty you can do the Cobra brakes for not much more than the regular Mustang brakes. I also plan to run the 94/95 Cobra MC and my stock '85 LTD booster.
    '89 XR-7 5 Speed
    '95 SC 5 Speed
    '91 Crown Vic P72 351W
    '97 Thunderbird
    '85 Ford LTD Squire

  7. #7

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    I have a stock brake booster off of a 96 Mustang V6 that I’m hoping I can use. After painting it and getting it all ready to go I did a quick Google search and found it looks like 94/95 is preferred or 99 and up but can the 96 be leveraged since I owned it?

  8. #8

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    What size wheels did you guys go with for the cobra brakes? I'm assuming 17" wheels so I'll just ask, how much harsher is the ride? I'm in Michigan and the roads out here aren't so great. I couldn't imagine thinner sidewalls than my current 15" wheels provide. Hopefully I'm wrong and the ride is pretty good.

    Thanks,
    Howard

  9. #9

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    I'm running 17" wheels off a 05 Mustang GT. My opinion of ride quality is skewed slightly as I went from Fox control arms w/245-50/16's with the old brake setup to Motorcraft SN95 arms with the new setup. Ride quality has slightly improved and impact harshness dramatically improved on all but the worst roads. This is probably contributed to the low friction ball joints and longer arms. Tire sidewalls are much stiffer with the new setup compared to the old setup.
    Jeremiah

    1986 Mustang GT 5spd, 3.27's
    PimpXS ECU/Android Single DIN Touchscreen
    SN95 Cobra Brakes/SN95 Front LCA's/Axles/S197 Wheels
    1998 Explorer Engine/Stock HO Cam 281rwhp/326rwtq

  10. #10

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    If you use the adapter at the link below, you can attach the SN95 front caliper hoses directly to your car.

    https://www.maximummotorsports.com/M...-FOX-P730.aspx

    Or you can get braided SS hoses:

    https://www.maximummotorsports.com/M...ont-P1341.aspx

    The 1996 V6 vacuum booster absolutely can not be used on your car. Some years of SN95 boosters can be used on a Fox Mustang with some modifications to the firewall. The result will be overboosted, too sensitive brakes, but this feels "powerful" to people who don't know the difference between power and sensitivity.

    I would avoid the 1999-2004 GT/V6 calipers. Too many problems.

    We have m/c available in almost every size along with the prebent installation kits, so you don't have to do any fabrication to install them in your car.
    Jack Hidley
    Maximum Motorsports Tech Support

  11. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Hidley View Post
    If you use the adapter at the link below, you can attach the SN95 front caliper hoses directly to your car.

    https://www.maximummotorsports.com/M...-FOX-P730.aspx

    Or you can get braided SS hoses:

    https://www.maximummotorsports.com/M...ont-P1341.aspx

    The 1996 V6 vacuum booster absolutely can not be used on your car. Some years of SN95 boosters can be used on a Fox Mustang with some modifications to the firewall. The result will be overboosted, too sensitive brakes, but this feels "powerful" to people who don't know the difference between power and sensitivity.

    I would avoid the 1999-2004 GT/V6 calipers. Too many problems.

    We have m/c available in almost every size along with the prebent installation kits, so you don't have to do any fabrication to install them in your car.
    Thanks Jack!

  12. #12

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    Ok - one other question! I have a rack/pinion along with inner tie-rods from an 1988 Turbo Coupe that I know is wider and I was planning to install so as to avoid spinning out the tie rod ends on the Capri rack past a safe point. Anything a guy needs to look out for in this process of putting the T-Bird Rack on the Capri?

  13. #13

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    Your Capri has 16mm steering rack bolts and different bushings than is currently installed in the Thunderbird rack. The Thunderbird rack has bushings in it designed for 12mm mounting bolts. You can swap the bushings between the racks or just use the ones linked below on the Capri rack.

    https://www.maximummotorsports.com/S...tang-P463.aspx
    Jack Hidley
    Maximum Motorsports Tech Support

  14. #14

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    Do you mind posting the SPR code and date from the Capri rack here?

    https://www.maximummotorsports.com/A...deLocation.jpg

    Which engine came in the Capri?
    Jack Hidley
    Maximum Motorsports Tech Support

  15. #15
    FEP Power Member David Claflin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Hidley View Post
    I would avoid the 1999-2004 GT/V6 calipers. Too many problems.
    I've noticed too that they seem to drag, so are the 94-98 the better ones? Was thinking those are cast iron whereas the later are aluminum. I run mine at the dragstrip so had an eye toward the lighter components.
    1985 LTD LX, Mach1 brakes, 17" Mopar police car wheels. 302, T5, 4.10s
    1984 LTD station wagon, with 84GT nose, some might remember it as the old Dugan Racing station wagon.
    1986 FHP coupe, stock shortblock, TW heads, Holley SMII intake, 4.88, T5Z
    1990 Red LX, ported AFR heads, TFS-R box upper, weenie cam, 1 3/4 long accufabs, 3" exhaust, T5, 4.56

  16. #16

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    David,

    These calipers tend to have problems with the pistons sticking in the bores. I'm not sure if this is due to corrosion in them or the caliper changing shape when it is overheated. If it is the former, you might be able to hone the caliper to fix the problem. If it is the later, it is junk. I have made no effort to investigate the problem. This is just data I have collected from customers.

    The 1994-98 calipers have no problems that I've ever seen. If you are going to drag race the car, the main issue is that the 1994-98 calipers have 18% more piston area than the 1999-2004 calipers. On a drag car, with presumably staggered tires, you need much more rear brake bias. From that standpoint, the 1999-2004 calipers would be much better.
    Jack Hidley
    Maximum Motorsports Tech Support

  17. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Hidley View Post
    Do you mind posting the SPR code and date from the Capri rack here?

    https://www.maximummotorsports.com/A...deLocation.jpg

    Which engine came in the Capri?
    . I haven’t taken it off the car yet but once I do I will post it

    It is a 1983 Capri RS Turbo with an EFI 2.3L engine. It also came with the factory TRX package. Sadly I was kind of stupid as a highschooler and when it came time to buy tires I junked the TRX wheels and bought 10 holes so I could afford the 15 inch tires with some meats on the back.

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