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  1. #1

    Default 1986 Mustang Door Striker Torx Size

    Does anyone know what the Torx socket size is for the door and hatch striker pins? Looks like somewhere between 40 and 50.

  2. #2
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    T50 Torx
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
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    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
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  3. #3
    FEP Super Member bwguardian's Avatar
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    If you're wanting to replace the plastic piece on them, there is a unit available that is, or can be, split to fit over it. This is what I did years ago and it's still all good. I tried to remove those torx strikers and just couldn't get them to budge...
    HAD
    '82 GT monochromatic (red)...black cloth

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    '85 GT vert two tone (white on charcoal)...white leather
    '00 F350 two tone (white on silver)...gray cloth
    '00 Excursion Limited two tone (white on tan)...tan leather...wifes ride
    '08 Taurus Limited ice blue...tan leather...daughter ride
    '08 Edge Limited white sand tri-coat metallic...tan leather...other daughters ride

  4. #4

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    You can also just boil the plastic and force it over. I tried the cutting but it eventually failed. Might be due to the convertible.
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    K&N filter in a stock dual snorkel, GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721 intake, MSD 8456 Dist., MSD 8227 coil
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers, catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals
    Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates and strut tower brace, 3.73 rear, dura grip (both Yukon)
    Ford Performance Springs, Firehawk A/S 225/55r16 on LMR TRX r390 wheels (street)
    Federal 595 rs-rr 245/40r17 and 255/40r17 on OE cobra r wheels (race)
    AOD rebuilt with a 6 clutch direct drum, Koline steels stacked with 8 clutches, Kevlar band, superior shift kit, new torque converter. --Everything else stock and fully functional.

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  6. #6
    FEP Super Member bwguardian's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by emerygt350 View Post
    You can also just boil the plastic and force it over. I tried the cutting but it eventually failed. Might be due to the convertible.
    Mine's a vert also and have not had any issues for several years now. However, I did also replace the door hinge pins when I did this back when...
    HAD
    '82 GT monochromatic (red)...black cloth

    HAVE
    '85 GT vert two tone (white on charcoal)...white leather
    '00 F350 two tone (white on silver)...gray cloth
    '00 Excursion Limited two tone (white on tan)...tan leather...wifes ride
    '08 Taurus Limited ice blue...tan leather...daughter ride
    '08 Edge Limited white sand tri-coat metallic...tan leather...other daughters ride

  7. #7

    Default

    Thanks everyone for your replies. Much appreciated.

    Unfortunately I want to loosen the striker for the hatch so I can adjust it. The hatch is loose and needs adjustment so it closes tight. I'm assuming that the adjustment is by moving the striker. It is also really grease covered in the area and I wanted to clean it. My car is really low mileage so the plastic cover is in good shape and hardly worn. So I'm going to attempt to loosen the striker. Any suggestions for a source of a really good quality torx bit for a ratchet, either 3/8 or 1/2 inch? My last experience was with a Lisle and it was really poor. Broke right off with minimal effort.

  8. #8
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Most likely the striker could be out of adjustment. Although in regards to the hatch you need to consider the hatch gasket first. If the gasket is old and compressed, you will never get a good seal and fit to the body. The other item in regards to getting rid of the loose issue with a rear hatch is your hatch bumpers at either corner of the hatch. Again these need to be in good condition and not rock hard old rubber. Make sure both of the gasket/weatherstrip and the bumpers are in good shape or new before making any adjustments to the striker, especially if your car is a low mileage example.

    As for Torx bits, I have had good luck through the years with Craftsman, Snap ON, Mac Tools, and a few others. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  9. #9

    Default

    Thanks for the info.

    I've bought a Jet Tools Torx 50 3/8" socket from my local auto parts supplier and it fits properly. Getting good tools here is not what it once was with all the off shore including Snap On and Mac. Craftsmen is not longer in business here. I'll give it a try loosening the striker and see what happens. The gasket and the bumpers both seem okay which is why I want to try adjusting the striker. I'm not really keen on changing the gasket. Sounds like a major project just getting one and then installing it, but if I have to I guess that is the way to go.

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