Weird issue with JEGS oil PU tube. WTH? Anyone experienced this before?

[richpet]

Short history:

1970 302 block. Stock crank, rods, bolts. Purchased the JEGS street/strip pan (6 qt #50290) with matching PU tube (#50295) supposedly able to clear up to a 3.55 stroke when used together.

Here is the issue:

With a stock oil pump installed and this tube bolted on, the #4 rod bolt SMASHES the PU tube! I measured screen to pan floor and it was great. I exchanged the tube for another one from them thinking the tube might have been mis-manufactured and got the same result! With the new tube I am able to 'space' the mount tab with a couple washers to clear the #4 swing, but need to clay out the screen/pan floor distance to see how it is.

Why the heck is a stock cranked/rodded/bolted bottom end hitting a PU tube that supposedly clears a bigger stroke?? Thoughts? JEGS thinks I must have erred somewhere, but I fail to see where. I mean, the rod bolt is making contact about 20 degrees before the bottom of the stroke (red arrow) all the way through the yellow arrow. I don't get it.

[JKengineering]

Is the pickup tube hold down supposed to be under the main cap bolt? I thought the bolt had a stud and nut on it for the pickup like this:
https://lmr.com/item/CAN-20950/Musta...mp-Pickup-Tube
That would raise the pickup and possibly clear the rod bolt.
Mike

[4-barrel Mike]

What Mike said.

Or the Chinese manufacturer has a problem with their bamboo welding jig.

Mike

[Saturn V]

I think JK has the right answer above.


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[gr79]

I thought too about a jig or mfg error. It happens.
Many parts are made by regular production workers not necessarily engine or even car savvy.
Parts are checked to make sure scrap is not being made. Workers may never know wtf the part does. That's ok.

Then i now seen no cap bolt with stud mount.

Yes that needs to be corrected to a main cap bolt with stud and nut for the pickup.
Many water pumps have the same type.
One may have not been there on the past, but game has changed and needs to be there now.
Check stress on the oil pump tube flange end.
Possible supplier assumes tube will clear because a studded bolt is in place.
If changed out to new bolts, read replacement bolt kits don't always come with the special bolt.
Read bolt can loosen up assembled per pic or the torque can be off.
Also read not all engines used the stud. Never seen a factory engine with a long tube bolted that way.

For sure recheck bottom of pan clearance and squareness after the change out.
Could do putty in a clear zip bag to keep things clean.
The stud mount will lower the pickup a bit.

[gmatt]

"If changed out to new bolts, read replacement bolt kits don't always come with the special bolt."

I bought a set of ARP main bolts and it did not come with the required stud for the pick up tube. had to buy it separately.

[richpet]

These are just factory bolts. Now that you mention it a stud mount makes the most sense, but I don't remember seeing it that way in the past when I've been in there in other motors, though that number is not large and the rebuild book I use for reference makes no mention of one.

I got a longer bolt and will space with a few washers (longer bolt to make up for washer depth) and then check screen to pan floor with clay. That was the solution I decided on yesterday.


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[richpet]

Looks like my solution is very similar to that main bolt with stud. I just don't remember seeing those before, but I have not done a motor in a long time.

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[gr79]

If the 1970 engine originally had a front sump pan, then it had a short oil pickup tube.
And all regular bolts from the factory. A studded bolt would not have been installed.

Engines with front sump pans and short oil pickups do not need a bracket brace and studded bolt.
Only engines with factory installed rear sump pans will have the one stud bolt.
And pan conversions from front to rear sump.

The bolt kits assume the engine has a short pickup tube. Stud bolts are for conversions or as a replacement.
Rear sump pans are sold assuming the engine already has one.
Guess they figure everyone knows every little detail but we don't. Or is it in the fine print?

In my 1979 Ford shop manual, Mustang/Capri/Fairmont/Zephyr have notes on this.
"Lower oil pan to frame. Remove oil pump attaching bolts and the inlet tube attaching nut from the #3 main bearing cap stud...."
The other car lines do not.
79 2.3 and V6 came either way according to car line. Front pan Pinto 2.3's have short pickups. My Mustang 2.3 has the stud deal.
V6 have oil pump in rear. With rear sump, have a short pickup.
V6 apps with front sump would have a long pickup tube.

Part selection depends on which end of engine the pump is located and what type of pan is used.

Id still get a stud bolt instead of washers to be on the safe side.
Studded cap bolt gets torqued same as regular but with a deep socket on the hex.
Add pickup bracket, then bracket retaining lock nut.

[richpet]

The motor definitely did not come out of a Fox body! Oh well, I prefer a head slapper to a real problem. Doh!
Thanky for the reminder! I am assuming I knew this when I build my '83 15 years ago...