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  1. #1
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    Default What modifications for performance?

    I picked up a 1986 SVO Tuesday, and while I do like the car, the throttle response/turbo lag was a little on the subpar side. My first inclination would be to slap a larger exhaust and throttle body on it, but I’m used to crown vics, with choked 4.6 motors instead of older turbo 4’s. Whatall would y’all recommend to address these shortcomings?

  2. #2

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    Quote Originally Posted by ClayBelt View Post
    I picked up a 1986 SVO Tuesday, and while I do like the car, the throttle response/turbo lag was a little on the subpar side. My first inclination would be to slap a larger exhaust and throttle body on it, but I’m used to crown vics, with choked 4.6 motors instead of older turbo 4’s. Whatall would y’all recommend to address these shortcomings?
    First confirm the engine is tuned and running properly (achieving full boost, timing correct, etc?). Next, go for a open cone air filter, larger downpipe, exhaust mods (take cat. out, Magnaflow mufflers). Then try some boost control (manual or electronic). Confirm that the engine and systems are providing enough fuel at this point! Thats a quick, easy start, from there, I'll let others chip in, there are many mods that can be done, but I haven't tried yet myself Also try to concentrate on the handling / braking characteristics that the car was originally designed for. I would make that the main priority along with the basic updates mentioned earlier.

    Enjoy!

  3. #3
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    It feels like it’s running good so far, but I’ve got a timing belt on the way and will be doing spark plugs soon among other basic tuneup items. I did not notice any issues with the drivetrain up to about 55 which was the highest I was willing to gamble with on 15 year old tires during my test drive. It made 12psi when it did hit boost, is that about right?

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by ClayBelt View Post
    It feels like it’s running good so far, but I’ve got a timing belt on the way and will be doing spark plugs soon among other basic tuneup items. I did not notice any issues with the drivetrain up to about 55 which was the highest I was willing to gamble with on 15 year old tires during my test drive. It made 12psi when it did hit boost, is that about right?
    Good to do the timing belt now, especially if the history of it is unknown. I used a tensioner tool from Company23 to help with the belt tensioner-tension, you may find another way to loosen it, but this worked for me. Get some fresh tires and a tune-up, that's a great start for sure (use standard copper spark plugs, apparently these engines don't like fancy-shmancy ones)! 12psi is about correct, did you notice the boost 'bleeding off' at that point? I know mine will do that, but seems to hold at around 12psi for most of a good pull... I'm having the cat. removed (original I believe) and sub-frame connectors installed next week. Will let you know how that turns out

  5. #5
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    Seems like it’s good so far. Ended up replacing the whole cooling system and doing spark plugs and wires, runs a little smoother and the boost stays steady. Seems to spool a little quicker too (31-3200rpm instead of 3300), but that might just be me. I’m thinking once I get the suspension sorted out I’ll turn my attention to power again, thinking a 3 inch turbo back and a modified air intake ahead of the VAM would probably do the most good. Would they get me to a 2500-2800 rpm boost threshold though, or would I need to do more work to get to that point?

  6. #6
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Default

    I am not the 2.3 Turbo expert, so I may be off a bit, but from my memory the boost with most SVO's seemed to really peak/kick in around the 3K mark in most cases. A manual boost control valve may help you adjust that RPM up or down a bit, but due to turbo design, etc. you are going to around that number without swapping out some parts.

    In my experience the 3" downpipe and exhaust didn't bring the boost in any earlier in the RPM range, but the turbo did feel/seem to boost to that 3K mark quicker.

    In many cases the VAM is the bottle neck in the intake system and swapping out air filters, etc. in front of that have little overall effect. For a mostly stock SVO, there's not a ton of benefit for removing the VAM and going MAF or SD with aftermarket ECM. If you are going for the 300+ HP range then there are benefits as well as added costs.

    The 85.5 and 86 SVO's were the best running and most powerful of the models, so unless you want to spend the time and money on rotated intakes, ported intakes, front mount intercoolers, headers, bigger turbos, bigger injectors, and possible aftermarket ECM (Megasquirt, PiMP Stinger, etc) I would do the standard tricks and tips to the SVO to maximize the power output which will be 250-275 HP in most cases and enjoy the heck out of it. You can easily push the 2.3 to 300+ HP with the right modifications and parts, but often at the expense of overall drive-ability and fun factor.

    I was good friends with Jim Whelan before he passed away. He owned Motion Dynamics and was a big player in the SVO/2.3 Turbo crowd. He was one of the first to install the Volvo intercooler, he played with a MAF conversion for the SVO, made a ton of custom engine parts and built many custom SVO motors for many owners. I vividly remember doing the paint/bodywork and interior refresh on a 1984 SVO for him and his customer. That SVO had a honest to GOD 400 rear wheel horsepower stroked 2.5 Turbo in it. The issue in my opinion was it was like an ON/OFF switch. Until the boost kicked in it was a DOG! Once the boost came on it would absolutely slam you back in the seat, but was so difficult to control and was unpredictable as hell. IMHO it took all the fun out of flogging the car around corners because it either had TOO much power or NOT enough. In a straight line it was hell on wheels. Unfortunately the owner gave the car to his 16 year old son who wrapped it around a tree in less than 6 months after being finished.

    The plans for my 84 SVO are to use my 86 SVO engine and computer with all the tricks and parts to get a reliable 275-300 HP. Keep it fun and drive-able. Faster than stock, but not so highly strung that it loses the fun factor. Also makes it less expensive to build and maintain. Oh and yes I did buy my SVO from Jim . . . . After a customer had to install bigger injectors and forgot the O rings. Caught the engine, wiring, and fuel system on fire, so mine gets a whole ground up restoration. Anyway I will get off my soap box. Good Luck!
    Last edited by wraithracing; 04-08-2020 at 09:12 PM.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  7. #7

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    If the premium fuel switch is on isn’t 15 lbs of boost more correct? My brother has an stock 86 SVO (been moth balled for 10 years now) and that’s what I recall.

    With my 83 Capri Turbo RS, I found that the 3300 rpm ‘switch’ is also true... my car goes from zero to hero all the sudden. I have a ported head with bigger valves and an esslinger cam. The bottom end has ARP bolts in it. The exhaust manifold also has some porting. All done as an 18-19 year old, my dad had a machine shop and car restoration shop that I worked in during high school for classic 60-70s mustangs so I had free access to the equipment for my own car. Boost on my car was set with a brass valve at 18psi after adding a turbo coupe InterCooler and botching a hole in my hood to make the hood scoop functional.

    I had long ago (2000ish) updated to the PE SVO computer with supporting injector and big VAM upgrades... same problem. 2 years ago I updated to an 88 Turbo Coupe ECU for the same goal. It was a little better but still very pronounced. I was planning to do an aftermarket ECU in hopes of curing that.... Trey, is your experience that it won’t?

  8. #8
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Default

    The PE computer was generally considered the "Best" SVO computer. The LA2/3 and LB computers had better processors and in some ways were better than the PE, although I am not sure that you really saw any improvement on a dyno with them.

    If I decide to do the whole aftermarket ECU, I will go with the Stinger PiMP XS along with their wiring harness. That is their Megasquirt based ECU, so it should do just about anything you want with a 2.3 Turbo. Does require a bit more hands on than a regular plug and play OEM computer but much more powerful and allows for tuning for so many things. Also allows you to ditch the VAM to free up airflow.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

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