Close



Results 1 to 8 of 8
  1. #1

    Default 1986 Mustang power lock troubleshooting

    I have been dealing with what I thought was a sticky lock mechanism on the drivers side door for months now, especially in the cold it seems. But after shooting everything down with lube I can find to shoot with lube I discovered it's a wiring issue of some sort.

    When I flip the drivers side switch the passenger side works perfect every time. The drivers door *usually* locks, but almost never unlocks unless you try it like 20 times. Then once it "frees up" it takes off working. I was shinning a flashlight in from above to watch what it was doing, and decided to look at the passenger side for a reference.

    So I go to the passenger side, and I'm watching the passenger side mechanism work as expected, and I look over to realize the drivers side is also now working as expected.

    I walk back to the drivers side and hit that switch and it acts gummed up again.

    So I know something is funny with that switch, or something with it's wiring for only 1 actuator. At this point I also have a keyless entry module hooked into the drivers side and it exibits the same behavior. This leads me to suspect wiring.

    Kinda hoping someone can give me a sanity check here, or if anyone knows how those switch's are wired, or if there are any ideas for an easy fix? Thanks!
    Triple black '86 GT Convertible 5.0/5spd (T5Z, hurst short throw, VM-1, 93 leather, all black tmi door panels, 93 cobra wing, strut tower brace, sub-frame connectors, 13.5 degrees base timing).

  2. #2
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Grand Junction, CO/RR TX
    Posts
    12,913

    Default

    I will say that overall the switch wiring usually doesn't cause any issues assuming there's no damage or deterioration of the wiring. With that said, my first thought would be the keyless entry module is causing the issue with drive side. The actuators work by reversing polarity at the actuator, so any keyless entry module must do the same to operate the actuator when you press the lock or unlock button on the key fob. My experience is that some of the keyless entry systems require additional relays to operate reverse polarity motors properly. I am not the expert in regards to keyless entry or alarm systems, but I have dealt with similar issues over the years with PO installed systems in many Foxes.

    It might be worth disconnecting the keyless entry system if possible temporarily from the driver side and see if that corrects the issue. If not, then you might also consider a new switch for the driver side just to verify if the switch is the issue. My guess is still that somehow the keyless entry system is getting the polarity mixed up and that is why the driver's side is acting as it does. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Ongoing RestoModification
    1984 SVO Awaiting Restoration
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Underway
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  3. #3
    FEP Senior Member OX1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Jackson, NJ 08527
    Posts
    605

    Default

    Should give you basics on PL wiring.
    I think I have 84 and/or 86 elec and vac book at home
    if this isn't enough.


    http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/te...dy-Diagram.gifName:  Mustang-86-Body-Diagram.gif
Views: 49
Size:  69.0 KB
    86 Capri, 5.0, 5Spd, A9L QH/BE, 47 lb Inj PMAS 3" MAF, Single T44 Turbo, Front Mount IC, TW170,
    Stock Cam, Explr Intake/TB, 1.7 Rockers, CF dual friction clutch, 3" DP, 2.5" full Exh, 3.27, 11.932 @ 115.78
    84 LTD, 331-10:1, TW170/Exprl Intake, 47 lbs inj/80 mm LMAF, Full Duals, Quarterhorse, Vortech 7PSI, Lentech AOD, 5 lug Mk VII brakes/rear, Eibach Sway bars, Cobra HB (dads ride, but I fix it )

  4. #4
    FEP Power Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    San Mateo, CA
    Posts
    1,715

    Default

    The actuators go bad. I had problem one and lubed it up. It seemed ok but a few weeks later started having a problem again. The actuator motor gets weak. Switches either work or not. I replaced the actuator on my 92, problem fixed.
    Fox Body/3rd Gen MCA Gold Card Judge
    84 SVO 24K miles, 85 Mclaren Capri Vert. 84 GT Turbo Vert.
    88 Mclaren Mustang Vert 20K miles, 89 Mustang LX Sport Vert,
    03 Mach 1 7900 miles, 74 Mustang II, 69 Mustang, 67 Mustang, 14 Mustang CS/GT,
    15 F150 FTX Tuscany, 16 F250 Crewcab, 67 Tbird 47K miles

  5. #5

    Default

    The actuators are new, and both of them work fine off the passenger switch.

    And as for the keyless entry module, I should have specified: I had the module installed yesterday, while this issue has been present for much longer
    Triple black '86 GT Convertible 5.0/5spd (T5Z, hurst short throw, VM-1, 93 leather, all black tmi door panels, 93 cobra wing, strut tower brace, sub-frame connectors, 13.5 degrees base timing).

  6. #6

    Default

    So correct me if I'm wrong...:

    The only wire that the passenger switch is not dependent upon the drivers switch for(and vice versa) is the black and white 12V lead. I wonder if that's my culprit
    Triple black '86 GT Convertible 5.0/5spd (T5Z, hurst short throw, VM-1, 93 leather, all black tmi door panels, 93 cobra wing, strut tower brace, sub-frame connectors, 13.5 degrees base timing).

  7. #7

    Default

    So I previously came to the conclusion that I saw different results dependent upon which switch was used. This was extremely repeatable, and was a sound conclusion at the time. But I guess this wasn't the case and my car just likes to f*ck with me for the fun of it....

    Woke up the next morning to find the drivers side refusing to unlock using either switch. After chasing a million ideas for causes, I pulled the drivers side door panel off, and replaced the actuator. I saw the exact same behavior from the new actuator, leading me to believe it wasn't the actuator. While messing with it, the passenger side actuator froze up. I couldnt even lock the door with the key at this point.

    So.... I pull apart the passenger side.... I got the actuator to free up, stuck it in the drivers side for the hell of it, and watched it work every. single. time. So I put my new actuator in the passenger side in hopes it will work most of the time.

    So as it turns out all reproduction lock actuators outright suck.
    Triple black '86 GT Convertible 5.0/5spd (T5Z, hurst short throw, VM-1, 93 leather, all black tmi door panels, 93 cobra wing, strut tower brace, sub-frame connectors, 13.5 degrees base timing).

  8. #8
    FEP Senior Member OX1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Jackson, NJ 08527
    Posts
    605

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by GliDeThuNDeR View Post
    So I previously came to the conclusion that I saw different results dependent upon which switch was used. This was extremely repeatable, and was a sound conclusion at the time. But I guess this wasn't the case and my car just likes to f*ck with me for the fun of it....

    Woke up the next morning to find the drivers side refusing to unlock using either switch. After chasing a million ideas for causes, I pulled the drivers side door panel off, and replaced the actuator. I saw the exact same behavior from the new actuator, leading me to believe it wasn't the actuator. While messing with it, the passenger side actuator froze up. I couldnt even lock the door with the key at this point.

    So.... I pull apart the passenger side.... I got the actuator to free up, stuck it in the drivers side for the hell of it, and watched it work every. single. time. So I put my new actuator in the passenger side in hopes it will work most of the time.

    So as it turns out all reproduction lock actuators outright suck.
    Luckily, We had bought an LTD parts car for my dads, so I used all the PW/PL motors/actuators
    for that conversion. If any of them didn't work though, I'd much rather find a working used one
    than go with the new crap made today. Sad that many times, 40 year old used stuff is way better
    than new Chinese junk.
    86 Capri, 5.0, 5Spd, A9L QH/BE, 47 lb Inj PMAS 3" MAF, Single T44 Turbo, Front Mount IC, TW170,
    Stock Cam, Explr Intake/TB, 1.7 Rockers, CF dual friction clutch, 3" DP, 2.5" full Exh, 3.27, 11.932 @ 115.78
    84 LTD, 331-10:1, TW170/Exprl Intake, 47 lbs inj/80 mm LMAF, Full Duals, Quarterhorse, Vortech 7PSI, Lentech AOD, 5 lug Mk VII brakes/rear, Eibach Sway bars, Cobra HB (dads ride, but I fix it )

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •