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  1. #1
    FEP Super Member mmb617's Avatar
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    Default When a car guy gets into reloading.

    I recently branched out into a new hobby, reloading. I find that I really enjoy it but one thing I noticed right away is that the wooden ball on top the handle of my press hurt my hand after a couple hundred pulls. Here's the old handle:





    I tried to take the ball off but I'm not sure how it's attached. I don't see any threads and it doesn't turn with the torque I can supply by hand. It may be glued on and I didn't want to force it and break it, so I thought I'd make a whole new shaft and handle. I had some 1/2" rod stock on hand so I cut that to length and threaded it for this Hurst T handle that also was on hand. It's much better now, but I find myself making vroom-vroom noises while loading.


    408/T5/3.73's

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  2. #2
    FEP Supporter GT Town's Avatar
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    That is fantastic! Great idea!

  3. #3
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Very Cool!

    You might need to change your screen name to Hot Rod Reloader!
    ​Trey

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  4. #4
    FEP Supporter webestang's Avatar
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    Love it.....slick and trick.....

    Scotty
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  5. #5
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Its great when that light bulb (cartoon symbol for idea) light up overhead. The better idea.
    Especially an idea that helps turn work into fun or an easier way to do something.
    Reminds me of slot machine handles. No i do not participate. Am too cheap.
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    Last edited by gr79; 01-12-2020 at 01:02 PM.

  6. #6
    FEP Supporter Broncojunkie's Avatar
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    Very nice lol!

    I'm just setting up a reloading bench, myself. I have the same press, too. Do you find yourself reaching for the clutch every time you pull it?

    What rounds are you loading? As soon as I finish getting the rest of the equipment and supplies I need (just a few odds and ends), I'll be loading for 25-45 Sharps and 6.8 spc. Eventually, I'll also be loading 30-30, 35 rem, 450 bushmaster, 308 marlin express, and a couple others I'm forgetting. I actually bought the reloading equipment about 10 yrs ago. I'm just now getting around to setting things up.

    Here's my setup so far. I should be working some brass within a couple weeks, if I ever make it back in town. Work has been rough lately.
    Last edited by Broncojunkie; 01-13-2020 at 07:55 AM.
    79 Pace Car - 331, t5
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  7. #7
    FEP Super Member mmb617's Avatar
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    I'm only doing 9mm and .223 right now, and people tell me those are two calibers that you don't save much money reloading, but I enjoy the process and I'm retired so time isn't a problem. I have three 9mm handguns and an AR15 so when my son and I go to the range we burn through a lot of ammo. Even a little saving adds up. I figure I save about 5 cents/round on 9mm and 11 cents/round on .223 so it does eventually add up to something.

    So far I've done 800+ rounds for the pistols and 250 or so for the rifle so using the above figures I've saved about $65. Of course I have $400 invested in equipment but that should last forever and the ROI won't take that long at the rate we're going. It's all gravy after that.

    I also will probably start loading .45 at some point as I've got my eye on an M&P Compact in that caliber. I just need to find the required $400 in my budget.

    Shooting is like the car hobby in that you always have something else on your wish list that you're saving up for.
    408/T5/3.73's

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  8. #8
    FEP Supporter Broncojunkie's Avatar
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    You are definitely correct about that. My first AR was a standard model in .223. I got a little bored with that and started building others in different chamberings. The 25-45 Sharps is my latest. It's a .223 case necked up to a .257 bullet. I figured since I have a lot of spent brass, i may as well load something heavier. I told myself I was finished with the "alternative chambering AR's".. but I've been researching the .277 wolverine.... which is a .223 case with minor trimming and necked up to .277. It never really ends!
    79 Pace Car - 331, t5
    79 Cobra - working on 351w, t5
    86 coupe - rotbox roller
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  9. #9
    FEP Power Member SchoolBoy's Avatar
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    Well you guys aren't alone, I just got my major equipment set up in such a way I can clamp it into the shops bench vise. Just waiting on my dies and a few odds and ends to come in. Anway the T handle is a good idea, and one I might need to try myself.

    Broncojunkie, have you looked into the 350 Legend, and 224 Valkyrie yet?
    If you blink at the end of the straight away you'll miss the twisties and what fun would that be!
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  10. #10
    FEP Supporter Broncojunkie's Avatar
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    I've looked into both rounds. In fact, the 2nd 6.8 spc I recently finished started out as a 224 valkyrie. I decided to turn it into another 6.8. Where I live here in the mountains of West Virginia, I really don't have room to stretch its legs. I figured it would get more use as a deer rifle.

    As for the 350, I live just across the river from Ohio. They recently started allowing straight-walled rifle cartridges. Although I don't hunt in Ohio, I would like to some day. But I have 2 rifles in 450 bushmaster that will work, so I decided to skip that one. It does look like a fine round, though. During my research on the 350 Legend, I came across the 300 Ham'r. That's another one I've been considering.
    79 Pace Car - 331, t5
    79 Cobra - working on 351w, t5
    86 coupe - rotbox roller
    86 coupe - working on 408w, c4
    88gt - 302 efi, t5

  11. #11
    FEP Power Member plumkrazy's Avatar
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    Very Nice. I was expecting to see a 5sp leather shifter knob
    1 of 3 1985 Silver Grand Prix Capr's
    My first New car and still own 1986 Capri

  12. #12

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    Where did you guys find the info on what all was required? I have thought about it but only recently have I considered it. Looking at 9 , 45 , 5.56 , 6.5 Creedmoor and Lapua.

    So reloading sure wouldn't hurt. Starting thinking about it after hearing that accuracy is night and day with Lapua and Creedmoor as there is poor consistency with store bought.
    84 20th Anny 2.3Turbo #1978
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  13. #13
    FEP Supporter Broncojunkie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GT350R View Post
    Where did you guys find the info on what all was required? I have thought about it but only recently have I considered it. Looking at 9 , 45 , 5.56 , 6.5 Creedmoor and Lapua.

    So reloading sure wouldn't hurt. Starting thinking about it after hearing that accuracy is night and day with Lapua and Creedmoor as there is poor consistency with store bought.
    The best way to answer that would be to go watch a few YouTube videos. There are plenty of good videos where reloaders show the entire process from beginning to end. I was confused about a few tools and steps, but the videos cleared them right up.
    79 Pace Car - 331, t5
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    86 coupe - rotbox roller
    86 coupe - working on 408w, c4
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  14. #14
    FEP Super Member mmb617's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GT350R View Post
    Where did you guys find the info on what all was required? I have thought about it but only recently have I considered it. Looking at 9 , 45 , 5.56 , 6.5 Creedmoor and Lapua.

    So reloading sure wouldn't hurt. Starting thinking about it after hearing that accuracy is night and day with Lapua and Creedmoor as there is poor consistency with store bought.
    Here are some resources I found helpful. The first is a 6 part series which I've linked the first one. It will lead you to the others.

    https://www.thefirearmblog.com/blog/2018/05/31/beginners-guide-to-reloading-part-1/


    https://www.rcbs.com/step-by-step-reloading.html


    https://www.pewpewtactical.com/beginners-guide-to-reloading-ammo/


    408/T5/3.73's

    We're not fast racers, we're more what's known as half fast racers.

  15. #15
    FEP Super Member mmb617's Avatar
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    At first the whole process seems confusing and intimidating but before long it gets easy. Pistol ammo is especially easy to do as there are only a couple steps. Rifle ammo is more complicated as more steps and equipment are required, but it's really not that difficult either. I really enjoy the process and find it relaxing to spend a few hours on it. Maybe I'm weird but the precision weighing and measuring and general attention to detail that's required appeal to me, and I'll bet a lot of car guys feel the same way.

    And yes, I've already noticed that my reloads are more accurate than store bought ammo. The difference is noticeable even to me a rookie reloader. With more experience I can probably dial in my loads to get it even better.

    I currently only do 9 mm and .223/5.56 which are two of the least cost effective to reload but even with them I realize a savings of 5-12 cents a round which doesn't sound like much till you multiply it by thousands of rounds over time. With some of the other calibers you want to do the savings per round will be much higher.

    I can't see a downside!
    408/T5/3.73's

    We're not fast racers, we're more what's known as half fast racers.

  16. #16

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    Awesome. Thanks

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  17. #17
    FEP Power Member SchoolBoy's Avatar
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    Another one you can watch is gavintoobe https://youtu.be/oXvcxsG2ryE
    If you blink at the end of the straight away you'll miss the twisties and what fun would that be!
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  18. #18

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    Ive found that waiting for sales on bullet tips is where the biggest savings come from when reloading. I've done a lot of .45 and still experiment with different powders and charges. Most of the store bought ammo varies widely and is quite hot and harsh to shoot. A good hand load can smooth things out and make shooting a lot more fun and accurate. You dont always need to go for the hottest load.
    Black 1985 GT: 408w, in the 6's in the 1/8 mile
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  19. #19
    FEP Super Member mmb617's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zap's 85 GT View Post
    Ive found that waiting for sales on bullet tips is where the biggest savings come from when reloading.
    I've been buying my bullets online as the prices are much better than the local gun shops, but the shipping is costly. The best way to save that I've found is to buy in quantity by combining the two calibers I reload. I can buy 1000 bullets in 9mm for $67 but the shipping is another $16 on top. If I add on 1000 bullets for .223 at $57 it only adds $2 to the shipping, so I order both at the same time. That makes the hit kind of big at $150 total but then I'm set for a while.

    Most of the store bought ammo varies widely and is quite hot and harsh to shoot. A good hand load can smooth things out and make shooting a lot more fun and accurate. You dont always need to go for the hottest load.
    I wonder if that varies by caliber and manufacturer? In my experience, and I don't have the equipment to actually measure muzzle velocity, but seat of the pants my handloads seem a bit hotter than the Blazer Brass I was buying for my 9mm pistols. And that's using only the starting loads from the Hodgden's tables. I've never tried to go any hotter as I can't see any reason to.

    I will say that my reloads are noticeably more accurate in my 9mm pistols of which I have three, and they all perform better with it. My AR is also more accurate but to a lessor extent. The difference might be more pronounced as I work out to some longer ranges. Right now I'm only shooting it at 100 yds which is far less than it should be capable of. I also use the starting loads for it but can't say I can tell any difference in the "hotness".

    I just really enjoy the reloading process. I got into shooting and reloading because I could no longer afford racing now that I'm retired and it's done a good job of filling the void.
    408/T5/3.73's

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  20. #20

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    I notice the harshness in the recoil from my 1911. I found an IMR powder that I like but damned if I can remember the number off the top of my head. I used Unique powder for a while. Shoots just as well but its a bit dirtier. Tried magnum primers and standard primers. It's just neat to play with all the combinations and possibilities. I was mainly trying all sorts of combinations as during the greater part of the former administration... reloading items were hard to get my hands on. I tried mainly whatever I could get that was in the realm of what I needed. I usually do reloading in the winter in the basement with the game on in the background. Time can fly by.
    Black 1985 GT: 408w, in the 6's in the 1/8 mile
    Color TBD 1988 LX 5.0 Coupe 5-speed: Rear defrost only option
    Grabber Yellow 1973 Mustang Mach 1: 351c, toploader
    Black 2012 5.0 GT, 6-speed, Brembo brakes, 3.73's
    Wimbledon White 1966 F-100 Shortbed Styleside, 390, Tremec 3550, FiTech EFI

  21. #21

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    I have that same Lee setup. Bought it probably 10 years ago, but have yet to actually do any reloading. This has primarily been due to not really having a good place to set everything up. I shoot 9mm, .45ACP, and .223 currently, and like was mentioned above, those are pretty much the least cost-effective calibers to reload so I just keep buying new ammo and saving my brass. I have been slowly building myself a new AR, planning on doing a 458 SOCOM. That will definitely be a caliber I'll want to reload.
    Thomas

    1985 Mustang GT - Build Thread
    347 (10.5CR, AFR 185's, PP Crosswind Intake, Custom-ground Comp Hyd Roller Cam, Scorpion 1.6 Roller Rockers, Holley 3310-4), T-5, 8.8 w/3.55's, MM SFC's, T/A, PHB, LCA's, STB, KMB, Bilsteins, MM/H&R Springs, SN95 5-Lug, Cobra Brakes, '04 Mach 1 Steering Rack

  22. #22
    FEP Super Member mmb617's Avatar
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    It's interesting how different guns throw the brass in different directions and varying distances. I went to the range yesterday with a friend who had always shot revolvers, never a semi-auto. He wanted to try my three 9mm pistols to see which one he liked the best, in the interest of possibly buying one of his own. Between us we shot a couple hundred rounds, and even ran a mag through my .223 AR just for grins.

    I always spread a tarp behind the firing line now since I'm reloading, but there's no one place I can put it to catch everything. The Shield throws brass almost straight back, over your head, while the M&P Compact throws it more to the side but not real far. The Ruger also throws it to the side, but much farther than the Smith & Wesson. Then of course the AR which throws it the farthest of all on an angle between the side and back.

    My tarp is 6x8 and simply can't be placed to catch all that. Still I think we recovered about 90% of what was shot, it's just that a lot of it was in the dirt.
    408/T5/3.73's

    We're not fast racers, we're more what's known as half fast racers.

  23. #23
    FEP Power Member SchoolBoy's Avatar
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    I'm not sure where you guys are getting your components and powder but powdervalley, midsouthshootersupply, and evergladesammo are the three I tend to watch. Powdervalley is good about doing either free shipping or free hazmat.


    PM85MUSTANGTGT if you have a bench in the garage with a good vise on it just bolt the press to a 2x6 chunk that you then clamp in the vise. This is what I did and seams like its gonna work out well.
    If you blink at the end of the straight away you'll miss the twisties and what fun would that be!
    1982 Capri RS 5.0L
    Suspension Build http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...tion-and-Build
    1985 SVO 2A & leather.
    Motor Build http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?t=63505
    Dyno stats and exhaust install http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...Dyno-d-finally
    My FMIC build http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...-amp-D-project
    Electronic boost controller and bypass valve
    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...d-Bypass-Valve
    Opperation SVO Tunes http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...51#post1148551

  24. #24

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    My primary shooting spot is in a mowed grassy field. Makes finding brass a challenge, but still manage to find the majority of it. Eventually I plan to invest in a brass catcher to mount on my AR's. Not really a good solution available for collecting pistol brass that I'm aware of though.

    Thanks for the tip, SchoolBoy, I do have a workbench with a vise. That's actually something I had considered doing and probably will at some point. It was my hope to eventually be able to set up a dedicated reloading bench to mount all the equipment and store supplies, but just don't have the space in my current home.
    Thomas

    1985 Mustang GT - Build Thread
    347 (10.5CR, AFR 185's, PP Crosswind Intake, Custom-ground Comp Hyd Roller Cam, Scorpion 1.6 Roller Rockers, Holley 3310-4), T-5, 8.8 w/3.55's, MM SFC's, T/A, PHB, LCA's, STB, KMB, Bilsteins, MM/H&R Springs, SN95 5-Lug, Cobra Brakes, '04 Mach 1 Steering Rack

  25. #25
    FEP Super Member mmb617's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SchoolBoy View Post
    I'm not sure where you guys are getting your components and powder but powdervalley, midsouthshootersupply, and evergladesammo are the three I tend to watch. Powdervalley is good about doing either free shipping or free hazmat.
    I haven't been able to find anybody online that doesn't charge a hazmat fee for shipping powder. Powdervalley is showing $19.95 hazmat and $10 shipping. Do they run specials where they waive one of those fees?

    The powder is considerably cheaper from online vendors but after you add the hazmat fee and shipping it's more expensive than I can buy local in small quantities. They will ship up to 48 lbs for one hazmat fee so if I bought 8 lbs at a time instead of the 1 lb I normally buy I could save some money, and I may eventually go that route.

    You got me thinking and I did a quick calculation. If I were to buy 8 lbs each of the CFE Pistol and H335 that I normally use I could save over $100 buying online but it would require an initial outlay of $350. But then I'd be set with powder for a long time. Hmm... Thanks, I think!

    Quote Originally Posted by 85MUSTANGTGT View Post
    My primary shooting spot is in a mowed grassy field. Makes finding brass a challenge, but still manage to find the majority of it. Eventually I plan to invest in a brass catcher to mount on my AR's. Not really a good solution available for collecting pistol brass that I'm aware of though.
    I thought about one of those brass catchers for my AR but the reviews were kind of all over the place. Some said they worked great but others claimed they get holes in the netting from the hot brass pretty quick. I also saw a net type thing you set up to catch pistol brass but it seemed like it would be a real hassle to get it properly positioned especially when shooting multiple pistols that throw the brass differently.

    That's why the best I've come up with so far is to spread a tarp and hope to catch most of it. Where I shoot the pistols is on grass/weeds and in the summer if it's a bit long it's hard to find the brass without the tarp. The rifles I shoot from a pavilion with a dirt floor but it's littered with all kinds and calibers of other peoples brass so I use a tarp there as well. I probably recover 90% of my brass using this method. It helps that I'm often the only one at the range so I'm not inconveniencing anyone else with my tarps.
    408/T5/3.73's

    We're not fast racers, we're more what's known as half fast racers.

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