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  1. #1

    Default Holiday Break Projects - Heater Core, Brakes, wiring & more 20th Anniversary Mustang

    I just wanted to do a quick write up on my projects I got done on my 1984 ½ 20th Anniversary Mustang over the Christmas break. First, I want to start with a little history, I bought this car after I graduated High School in 1998. In 2000 I had it repainted and drove it off and on but let the car eventually sit after tiny things stopped working. Transmission would pop out of 1st gear, clutch slipped, dash lights out everywhere, AC stopped working, heater core leaked and finally parked it in 2014 because the hard brake line on the rear broke.

    Which brings me to today – I have several Mustangs and simply neglected to drive them routinely creating situations that led me to this ambitious project during these 2 weeks I have had off. I started by replacing the hard lines on the rear, simple enough and put a new drum hardware kit while I was in there. I used Por15 after removing the grit and grime from the wheel well.








    Then I moved to the front, rusty as all heck. Pads were new and rotors had no wear. I cleaned them up with scotch brite pads and then decided I would ceramic coat and paint everything because I knew the American Racing replacement tires in that size were $600 and Super GT Sport tires wouldn’t be road worthy. I knew tires and maybe new rims were going to happen if I want to drive this in the spring – more on that later.












    Next, the most intimidating project was to replace the heater core. I got a quote for the heater core at $650 bucks. I said hey I will give it a go at 25 dollars for the part. After watching a few YouTube videos and posts I was able to disassemble the dash and replace it.




    While the dash was ripped apart I decided to replace every cluster light in the car.






    I didn’t need to remove the interior, but it needed a good cleaning for sitting so long.





    I read you should run a restrictor in-line for the inlet hose of the heater core. Parts stores looked at me like I was from another planet and didn’t want to order a bunch of parts online that would take a week to get here. I made one from ¼ inch hard line, 3/8 fuel line, a washer, flared it out and inserted into the inlet hose. Cost me nothing and restricts the flow nicely. I have heat for the first time in 20 years.






    Fluids – I can’t remember the last time I did this. With the heater core replacement all the coolant was flushed and replaced. I then did the oil & filter, the brakes where done previously when I replaced the hardlines (looked like chocolate milk). I also removed the gas tank and drained it and replaced the fuel filter.


    Next, I started tackling the weird electrical issues I found after putting a fresh battery in it. Dome lights would not shut off. I did the obvious by replacing the jam switches and dimmer – did not fix the issue. After pouring over a wiring schematic with the help of a friend, we found in the A post of the passenger side car chewed wires from a mouse. Lovely, how the heck would a person fix that. I removed the trim, drilled out the rivets for the T-Top bracket and pulled the harness out enough to solder the wires and fed them back down – FIXED! Then I looked over the fuses and I swear I must have just put whatever I had available at the time to replace them. 30-amp fuse in a 10-amp location – you get the idea.








    Back together finally:



    And now the tire situation, my car had 14 America Racing rims with P215/60 R14 tires on them. If you look the only tire in that size are BFGs which would cost $600 bucks. The rims only had 4 inches of backspacing so they always stuck out from the wheel wells a bit. Once I did the math, I figured out with the money I saved by replacing the heater core ($650) and not buying BFGs on old 90s era rims ($600) I now had a budget of $1250 to fix 2 issues. The first was the sagging rear end, I spent $146.46 on a set of KYB Gas-a-Just Monotube shocks and .750 inch aluminum spring spacers. Then the best part a set of 4 Motegi MR116 17” rims with a proper 5 ¾ inch backspace so my new rubber will tuck into the wheel well. Part of my decision was cheaper tires, as odd as this sounds 15 & 16 inch tires are very expensive whereas 17s offer a ton of options. For me and my heavy right foot I was able to get a reasonable priced tire for $57.99. So new shocks, spacers, rims and tires set me back a total of $939.36. A little math here, budget was $1250 (doing the heater core myself and not buying expensive 14 inch BFGs) minus my Summit Racing bill left me with $310.64 in the black! Doing the work myself allowed me to save money and get a more modern style to my Mustang.



    New 17" Rims:



    And of course, all of this is made much easier in my home built heated and air conditioned paint booth & my Norco mid rise ground lift.




    List of things left to tackle:

    1. New T-5 World Class Transmission, since this car is a 1984 it does not have the "World Class" T-5. These about $2000 from what I found or if someone has a 1986 or newer T-5 in the area i would be interested in purchasing it. I may even put a 6 speed in it - anyone put one in a Foxbody before?

    2. Air Conditioning

    3. Upholstery - Cannot find the 2 tone Canyon Red interior for the 20th Anniversary car, just the solid Canyon Red.

    4. Side trim - mind is coming off because it was removed when painted and the metal bent and the tape did not hold. I am having a heck of a time finding the red strip that goes in the middle of the side trim. I bought it years ago from Mustangs Unlimited but nobody carries this anymore. Help if you can.


    Cheers to 2020!

  2. #2
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    I can put you in touch with my transmission guy who might be able to help you out with a rebuilt T5 if you are interested. I might even have a spare, but I would have to go thru my stash to see what I still have at this time.

    Have you contacts SMS AutoFabric in regards to the original upholstery? https://smsautofabrics.com/

    The side molding between the wheels is not reproduced at this time. It is the same shape and style as the SVO, but just in red. You can use similar style molding to make it work although it will not be 100% correct. I had found some molding very similar to the OEM stuff years ago when looking for my SVO, but I would have to find it again. I will try and look.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  3. #3

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    Thanks Trey for the information. I had the transmission rebuilt once before and shortly after the shirt fork broke again (think that is what it is called). I was told I would be better of with a World Class T-5, not the 1984. I think they were in 1985 - 1995 mustangs. Let me know what you have - I have a new toploader 4 speed in the box for my 1964 1/2 - so I could ship you this box to ship it to me.


  4. #4

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    The box is from a TKO-500 I put in another car, I just put the toploader in there to store it btw

  5. #5

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    Update:

    Shocks and Spacers installed:





    Then I decided to replace the cracked windshield on the car. I got a Capri for next to nothing with a good windshield and perfect trim. I had to paint my sill because of rust under the old urethane.








  6. #6
    FEP Power Member 4-barrel Mike's Avatar
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    Looking good!

    Mike

  7. #7

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    Thanks Mike!

  8. #8

  9. #9
    FEP Power Member mcb82gt's Avatar
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    looking good!

    an appropriate sized 1/4 inch socket makes an excellent heater core restrictor. Just put a hose clamp around when done to hold it.
    Mike

    Now stang-less.

    88 Cougar 5.0

  10. #10
    FEP Super Member NAVYCAT's Avatar
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    Looking GREAT!!!!!!!!!!! I love seeing pictures.
    2017 Ford Explorer Sport (DD) 1986 Capri 5.0 Silver/Red
    1969 Falcon XW GTHO coupe (SOLD) went to Australia
    Past 4 eyes-
    4th. 1981 Capri "White" Black Magic I6
    3rd. 1984 Capri RS V8 Black/grey
    2nd. 1984 Capri RS V8 White/red
    1st. 1984 SVO Grey/grey (traded it for a worn out 1970 BOSS 302)
    Both '84 Capri's vin# were 10 away from each other
    U.S. NAVY 1980-2009

  11. #11

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    What a sweet Anni car! This is motivating for me to get working on my car

  12. #12

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    After over a month of waiting for the Motegei MR116 Rims I canceled it and ordered a set of SVE Saleen SC Style Wheels from LMR. 3 days later they showed up at my office. They look fantastic and got a set of Sumitomo HTR Z5 245/45R17s for tires. Of course I cannot bolt them onto my car at the moment because I am swapping out my Non World Class T-5 to an SN95 T-5 - forum discussion here: http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...n-1984-Mustang

    I also got new fog lights coming. Only items on the list to tackle before spring is side molding and recover the driver's seat! If anyone has a set of foxbody seats I would be interested in buying them. Condition doesn't matter, I am going to put new foam and recover using a solid canyon red kit from TMI since nobody makes the two tone anniversary covers. I don't want to rip my original ones apart, so again I am looking. let me know what you have.

    Enjoy,

    Mike




    Last edited by michaeloberg1980; 02-05-2020 at 08:20 AM.

  13. #13
    FEP Senior Member liv2roc's Avatar
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    red stripe can be found here https://www.graphic-express.com/ford...tripe-kit.html
    https://smsautofabrics.com/ has the seat fabric but its like $100 a yard and you have to get someone to make the seats.

  14. #14

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    OK - Check a few more items on my to do list. Started with buying a really nice set of Marchal 750s from eBay shipped from Canada to my door for $209.




    I have my original black covers so I wasn't too worried about the condition of the covers as much as the lights - they were plug and play and even the bulbs worked!



    Next I was able to button up the T5 SN95 swap by modifying the crossmember and putting in an aluminum driveshaft. I got the clutch fork dust cover from Prestige Mustang. Total cost of this was $900 for the Transmission & Crossmember, $260 for the RAM Clutch, $60 Flywheel turning, and $90 for the clutch for cover. Grand total for the swap - $1310. I also added a firewall adjusted to the firewall because my clutch cable was too short and love the on the fly adjustments:





    I also took this time to under coat the whole car using POR 15 as the drive train was out.



    I did have to convert the car to a 1992 Mustang 2 wire starter to fit in the newer 1995 bell housing:



    Then I got the new wheels on the car, love how the G.T. 350 shows through the rim:



    Got the rims from LMR, fit great:



    Then I did probably the second most annoying thing on this car aside from the transmission issues I had. I bought the LMR side molding kit and a roll of Crimson Red stripe to replace the old metal banded molding that was peeling up. Paint conditions were perfect low humidity and my paint booth was running over 75 degrees all weekend:



    Underneath the old molding was just sealer, when I had the car repainted 20 years ago - apparently the shop just decided to paint the trim on the car. The problem was the bulging molding allowed dirt and gravel to rest against the metal. I found surface rust under the old trim and I had to treat this before starting with the trim:



    I used a 3M eraser tool to remove the old adhesive:


    Then tape, sanded, sealed/primed:





    Painted all the way from wheel well to well because you will apply the trim back from the front of the doors - so they can open without hitting the trim and fender.



    Used a high build primer and the correct Oxford white for the 20th Anny cars:



    Then paint and clear, center is picture of the old trim. I was testing clears to match the car:



    And finally installed the trim - it is difficult to get a good picture in the booth but this really made my car look so much better:



    Notice the gap in between the molding on the front door/fender. I checked this multiple times to make sure this is correct and all sources said 1/16 of an inch from the back of the door. This is why it is important to paint underneath all the trim surfaces if your car was like mine:




    About the only thing left I can think of is the seats. The 20th Anny cars had two tone Canyon Red seats. I don't want to cut mine up so am looking for a set of GT seats I can cover in TMI Canyon Red for now until I can find someone to make proper seat covers for me.
    Last edited by michaeloberg1980; 02-17-2020 at 07:12 AM.

  15. #15

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    Also check out the LED dash light upgrade I did:

    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...grade-MUST-SEE


  16. #16

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    Looking great! I also have an '84 GT (non anniversary vert).

    How do you like the quality of the reproduction side moldings? Mine are original and peeling up on the edges like yours were.
    84.5 GT Convertible Build Thread
    86 LX Coupe

  17. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by graphicdesigner80 View Post
    Looking great! I also have an '84 GT (non anniversary vert).

    How do you like the quality of the reproduction side moldings? Mine are original and peeling up on the edges like yours were.

    They are fantastic. The originals had metal bands on all of the trim pieces. These reproduction ones from LMR only have metal bands on the "bumper" extensions 4 total 2 front/2 back. The trim between the wheels do not have metal backs, the adhesion is much more forgiving and stick like a mother. The only complaint I have is the price, $360 bucks! Install was very easy even though my car didn't have paint under the original reinstalled molding. It just added an additional step but glad I found that surface rust - check for that if your car's molding is peeling up.

    https://lmr.com/item/LRS-160MK/musta...8aAtxhEALw_wcB

    Let me know if you want any other pictures or if you have any questions. If you look at the picture of my wheels where you can see the G.T. 350 caliper you will see how back my molding was pulling up for reference.

    Mike
    Last edited by michaeloberg1980; 02-17-2020 at 11:09 AM.

  18. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by michaeloberg1980 View Post
    They are fantastic. The originals had metal bands on all of the trim pieces. These reproduction ones from LMR only have metal bands on the "bumper" extensions 4 total 2 front/2 back. The trim between the wheels do not have metal backs, the adhesion is much more forgiving and stick like a mother. The only complaint I have is the price, $360 bucks! Install was very easy even though my car didn't have paint under the original reinstalled molding. It just added an additional step but glad I found that surface rust - check for that if your car's molding is peeling up.

    https://lmr.com/item/LRS-160MK/musta...8aAtxhEALw_wcB

    Let me know if you want any other pictures or if you have any questions. If you look at the picture of my wheels where you can see the G.T. 350 caliper you will see how back my molding was pulling up for reference.

    Mike
    Mike - Thanks for the tips! Not as close to finishing as you are, but good to hear the re-pops are worth buying... even if they're mighty expen$ive!

    Keep up the good work!

    -Kent

  19. #19

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    Looks excellent, motivation for my projects. Keep it up!

  20. #20
    FEP Power Member mcb82gt's Avatar
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    Very nice work, Keep us posted.
    Mike

    Now stang-less.

    88 Cougar 5.0

  21. #21
    FEP Senior Member tbirdman's Avatar
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    Great progress. Very nice!
    If they take my stapler, then I'll set the building on fire...

    85 Mustang GT

  22. #22

    Default Maiden Voyage a couple of issues

    I was able to take advantage of 50+ degree weather this weekend to get my car on the road. Transmission shifts great, brakes work, speedometer doesn't jump, the ride is a little stiff and the fuel gauge doesn't work. My thoughts:
    1. the spacers I added in the rear or the fact I didn't do anything to the front or maybe because the 17s have less of a smooth ride because of the low profile?
    2. When I had the fuel tank out to drain it, the pickup unit is either wedged (the float) from tipping the tank on it's side/upside down. I am certain I reconnected the wires - I remember seeing the electrical grease under the rubber boot.

    The exhaust smells really bad as well, don't know if it is cycling bad gas out, I filled it up at the gas station so we will see.

    Anyways a few pictures I took of it out of the shop, I cannot remember the last time this car seen sunlight















  23. #23
    FEP Super Member JTurbo's Avatar
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    Looks killer!!!
    1979 Indy Pace Car Mustang 302 / 5spd
    1982 Mustang GT T-Top 302 / 4spd
    1986 SVO Mustang - 1C

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