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  1. #1

    Default Door hinge pin removal

    I already did the driver side. The pins came out easily and the door works great with no sag. then i moved to the passenger side.......

    I cut the top pin in half, not too hard. But i can not get it to separate from the top of the hinge. I tried driving a wedge in the now half-ed pin, and I am afraid I am going to bend the top of he hinge. Any advice? Anyone ever have this issue?

  2. #2
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Jun 2009
    Location
    SE Michigan
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    5,141

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    Pins prob are binding in the bushings. Door is sagging too much, binding them up in the holes.
    The two door hinge bushing holes (door hinge and body hinge) being worked on need to be parallel like when it has new pins in it.
    Door support definitely is a factor in doing this job.
    Try moving entire door up, down, fore, aft a tiny bit and hold the door there. See if pin pieces tap free.
    I use a crate and wood as shims for support under door, or a floor jack.
    Hinges are pretty strong. Raise just enough to support door weight but not lift car.

    Found if a lower pin becomes unseated (works its way up a bit out of lower bushing), door won't latch.
    On mine, the pin also moves the upper bushing up a bit. A couple taps on pin head reseats both.

    Never had to use a air chisel with a tapered round or flat punch but would if needed.
    Have used this combo (after grinding the rivet head off) to remove frame rivets in 2 seconds.
    Heavy hammering with a punch did nothing.

    If the bronze bushings can be tapped or half or totally pried out of hinge, makes it easier to remove pin.
    They are soft, so new ones would need to be on hand. They usually wear out before the pins do.
    Several different long thin and hd screwdrivers are handy doing this.
    Have even had to use small locking needle nose vice grips and penetrating oil.
    Tight spot to work in with limited access or space clearance to use most tools in.

  3. #3

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    Still can not remove the pins. I am at a loss. I have tried supporting the door. I have new bronze bushing ready, I just need the old pin out. I can not get it to spin or move in any way... Very strange.

  4. #4
    FEP Senior Member
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    Mar 2008
    Location
    darien il
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    523

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    yes, they can be hard to get them out of there. oil, drift pin and hammer and time . not really hard is to remove the front fender and then you have better access. just takes more time.

  5. #5
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Jun 2010
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    Grand Junction, CO/RR TX
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    Personally I hate doing hinge pins with the front fender on. I have done it, but I just don't like the lack of access to the hinge area and the possibility of damaging paint and sheet metal. As stated, removing the front fender doesn't take that much time and is relatively easy depending on the year and model. That would be my first choice, yours may differ.

    Either way, I would recommend using a floor jack and a block of wood at the back edge of the door. Raise the jack until the block of wood just rests against the bottom edge of the outer skin. Slowly jack the door up to remove the tension on the hinges. Go slowly and after each time, try to drive the hinge pin out. Personally I like a pneumatic air hammer. Short burst to drive the pin up is all you need. Much more force than you can usually get otherwise. If you don't have an air hammer, you can pick one up at Harbor Freight, Lowe's, Home, Depot, etc. for $30-$50 in most cases. Well worth the $$. Continue the process until the pin is driven out. Shouldn't have to lift the rear of the door more than a couple of inches MAXIMUM! Keep an eye on the front of the door and the fender area to prevent damage to the paint or metal. Also be ready as once the pin comes out the door can shift or move and possible scratch the paint. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

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  6. #6

    Default

    Pretty sure factory hinges are basically riveted on. Inhad to drill out both door hinge pins on a lower mile tbird to replace them.
    2 1986 cougars (both 4 eyed and 5.0)
    1 1987 cougar

  7. #7

    Default

    i like the fender removal Idea. I think that is next. I will remove the fender and drill out the pins. I will report back.

  8. #8

    Default

    Ok. Just wanted to give an update.... I did it.

    For the top hinge, I bought a drill bit extension. I used carbide bits and drilled out the top. Then used a punch and knocked down the bottom side.

    The bottom hinge was harder. I could not get the drill over it. I used a cutoff wheel on a dremmel to cut the pin. Then I used a metal blade for dermmel multi tool and cut the head off the top of the pin. Then applied heat and used a vice to put the pin up.

    I installed the new bushings and pins went in fairly easy. The only trick i would suggest is that you need two people. One to tap in the pin and one to move the door. The holes need to line up exactly to get the pin back in.

    The result: When i open the door, it swings out straight, no sag. When i close the door, it closes perfect. Just like it came from the factory.

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