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  1. #26
    FEP Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Grand Rapids, MI


    Maybe too late, but check this out.
    '89 XR-7 5 Speed
    '95 SC 5 Speed
    '91 Crown Vic P72 351W
    '97 Thunderbird
    '85 Ford LTD Squire

  2. #27


    The 93 cobra sawblade or turbine or whatever you call those wheels look good on that thing!

    I fought my thermostat housing for a few weeks a year ago, so I feel ya!

    and it would continue
    Last edited by Str8sixfan; 12-10-2019 at 12:57 AM.

  3. #28


    Quote Originally Posted by KevinVarnes View Post
    Maybe too late, but check this out.
    Aghhh dam...

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  4. #29


    Quote Originally Posted by Str8sixfan View Post
    The 93 cobra sawblade or turbine or whatever you call those wheels look good on that thing!

    I fought my thermostat housing for a few weeks a year ago, so I feel ya!
    Thanks, the wheels are original cobras so they sit a little tucked, but I will be buying 1Ē lug adapter to sit them flush when I swap out the rack n pinion to a newer fox. Plus with some newer rap wheel studs.

    The housing I have is a CVR design but man. Little pitta I tell ya.

    So far car is running smooth.

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  5. #30


    Any night stalkers out there???


    With the car running better and just passed the break in point of the torque converter Iím not happy with it. Jegs ďwhite boxĒ brand is knocking. I know th e problem is due to the stall itself. Well Iím putting the old on I had back in and will be pulling motor since itís easier for me. Plus now I can put the new index plate from Performance Automatic. ( I thinks thatís the prob for my embarrassing noisy starts)

    Time: 8:35pm

    Step one finish Michelada,
    Step two have a smoke
    Step one(revised) good Metallica playlist

    Then time to pull the motor. Aiming for a 2-3 hr pull. Letís see. Will update my success or failures after.

    Cheers vatos

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  6. #31

  7. #32


    Update from last night.

    Motor pull was in effect just before 11, with taking a dinner break. Motor is just suspended right now. I had to call it as the motor plate dowel pin holes are not the right size.

    First pic just pulled the upper hose and started the drain.

    I like to work from top>>bottom especially since it was raining a Lil I wanted to avoid being wet as much as possible.

    I made the engine harness connect to the original. So one connection and a signal wire for the fuel pump relay. Ohh and the MSD cables (3) harness was left attached.

    By this point I took the driver side header off from the motor and spark plugs but left it connected to the down pipe. Passenger header I will leave on and disconnect from the bottom 2 bolts.

    The bottom was just the 4 tq bolts / starter ( which this being the second one, the solenoid bolts where backing off!!!) and motor mounts.

    At this point, wifey came back with a burrito and I took a 20 min break to fill up

    1 beer, a Eye of the Tiger playlist and back at it.

    The engine to trans I get from the top.

    And shortly passed 2 hr..

    Cheers mates!! I am omy out the door. Once I get back I will show you what I did to my 6 cyl Kmember to fit my C-6 and motor.

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  8. #33



    Motor is in, torque converter is torqued. Taking a break as I have no liquid courage.

    So I still am using the 6cyl K-member and the stock transmission bracket and location. Since I decided to run a C6 trans and I had plenty of room with the extra meet where the 6cyl motor mounts line up, I decided to put the motor 1.5Ē more forward.

    This gave me multiple benefits:
    1) no mods to the trans cross member as it is very different that newer foxís

    2) VERY EASY Access to the bell housing bolts. Like wow. All are out in 5 min no joke

    3) was able to use the stock Fairmont driveshaft with a 1310-1330 U-joint conversion for the c6 yoke. Fit perfect no mods.

    4)itís free and already installed

    Labor was a different story but a few drilled holes, grinder, a few hours and I was able to make the new motor mount holes needed. It did take multiple dry installs and pulls lost count after 10 times. But worth the effort as this car is WAS at the time a true budget car.

    Car was purchased for $750 in Redding from second owner and ran like crap. Instead of trying to deal with a single barrel carb, for the same price all I needed was shocks, wheel bearings, motor mounts (bought 3 total) and a few other random pieces.

    Until this most recent purchases of what my first post consist of. All I put in this car was the necessary. I HAD a total of $2500 including car prior to this updates. It had left me stranded once or twice and that led me to giving her some love.

    Anyways Iím already at the liquor store so with liquid courage. Iíll be back to work.

    Here are some pics:

    Driver side motor mount yess the hole is taller but needed it to be due to the motor mount. This does not affect anything but header fitment. Other vehicles such as my nova with factory BB used taller driver side mounts often.

    Passenger side:

    Notice the 3 holes. First from left is original 6cyl, my hole then the stock location for 4cyl/8cyl.


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  9. #34


    Well then..


    Since you canít say T-I-T-s on here... itís running chi-chiís!!! Thanks to all the help from my friend, liquid courage, itís running great. No starter noises, no knocking from the trans.. and before I bolted the carb down I changed some stuff

    Thatís my mess from 24hr LeChange.

    Carb was way off from Holley, I know they come built and ďtunedĒ but man. That plus I knew I was going to have to jet it down.

    Found the high speed air bleed on the primary side was a 70 on one throttle bore and 28 on the other

    So I took the 33ís off my Nova carb and slapped em on the secondary side since this carb is too big for a stock-ish 302. And left the 28ís on the primary. I put 65 jets on the primary and 68ís secondary. 8.5 power valve and put the linkage for my secondary accel pump back on but switched the cam to the ď2Ē position to give me fuel later.

    As you can see they were the same air bleeds on the left primary side.. Going to call Holley and see if they can send me some more air bleeds as this WAS there mistake.

    My car still has a sight putter on light throttle and this is due to being a lil too rich on the primary side OR I may need the next step up power valve. So I will hit that up next.

    Here is the motor all done up, going to put the air cleaner on later.

    All in all, idle/throttle is good, secondaryís pick up like a beast and starter is fixed an no more school of hard knocks.


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  10. #35


    Going to set timing today. Itís locked out so maybe keep it at 30-32 and see what happens. Currently cars at a conservative 28. Iím running 91 but have yet to really see any knocking from this stocker. So might set timing to where I can get by with 87 and mark it on the dizzy itself. When ever Iím feeling heavy in the Right foot I can simply move the dizzy and fill er up 91.

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  11. #36


    Update on well something.

    Set timing and adjusted the idle screws. Turned down fast idle and called it.

    Went on to more exciting things and helped build the short end of my buds 347. Not going into details as it has nothing to do with my build but looks bad to the bone.

    Whenís the last time you seen a white block?? Yeah yeah oil leaks. Well we have at least 10k miles

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  12. #37
    FEP Power Member gmatt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Chicago, south subs


    Why the locked out timing? Just curious.

  13. #38

    Default Another 4 door build

    Quote Originally Posted by gmatt View Post
    Why the locked out timing? Just curious.
    Well #1 reason for me was consistency. I always when tuning found me putting lightest springs for max timing asap. I never ran a vacuum advance. And after running nitrous in my nova for 2 yrs. I got used to it. Not the best for starters. And tight converters. But I donít punch it really below 2k anyways.

    I think itís a personal preference like vacuum secondaryís vs double pumpers. Not the best for economy, but itís consistent, and Iím ready for some juice.........

    FYI i would never build a customer street motor with locked out timing.

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    Last edited by 82MoreDoorFox; 12-16-2019 at 06:47 PM.

  14. #39


    Another pic with a random fox here at work.

    Returning the stall from Jegs and going to buy an bad ass wide band. I need it like I need a timing light. My donkey Dyno-meter is reaching itís limits. I plan on using it universal like a dyno.

    I think Iím getting bad signal at low rpm 800-2000 from the carb and the plenum on the Edelbrock RpM is divided so I will try a spacer if that works I will cut the divider down a bit.

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  15. #40


    Update to the board:

    Once I flip this Camry I got a 95 GT that I can grab for $1,500. Body is crap but I will be doing the full swap from suspension to tank and dash/door panels. So I can make the 82 smog legal and I will bar it. So until then I will be holding off on buying anything. I think allís I will need is to figure out the trans crossmember. But Iíll deal with that another day.

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  16. #41


    Since it's an '82, you won't have any problem with the trans crossmember. Just get a late Fox double hump one and bolt it up!

    Tank might even fit okay, since you have the flat bottom trunk! SN95 filler neck won't work, but your original might. Being an '82-83 solves a LOT of problems on these cars.
    Last edited by ZephyrEFI; 01-13-2020 at 09:40 AM.

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Transit Connect Titanium LWB
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  17. #42


    Quote Originally Posted by ZephyrEFI View Post
    Since it's an '82, you won't have any problem with the trans crossmember. Just get a late Fox double hump one and bolt it up!

    Tank might even fit okay, since you have the flat bottom trunk! SN95 filler neck won't work, but your original might. Being an '82-83 solves a LOT of problems on these cars.
    Looks like I got unluck with the trans cross member I have them at the house. It may be off the 64. I will try n look into the tank but goal is to be BAR legal swap and I think thatís tank included.

    I have a month or so to look into any tips. Thanks for the Info.

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  18. #43


    Ok after thought, I will not be doing the dash swap. I like the look of the Fairmont and donít want to experiment on such a clean car. Also, keeping doors manual and eliminating just a whole bunch of bs.

    So with that said,

    Need to figure out how to install a semi-truck style shift knob. Along with shifter boot. Iím thinking like something in older vehicles. Just a rubber boot with an aluminum ring.

    Gauges are going to be upgraded to a digital 4 in 1 style for the left and GPS style MPH gauge.

    This route is going to net me the fastest turnaround time and hardest part should be dropping springs/swapping struts, running a new fuel pressure line/return line, tank swap, and dash/engine harness wiring. Kinda sounds like the whole build. But itís do-able.

    Iím thinking about a one week turn around. If all goes smooth. And I will be challenging myself with videos again and bringing my old YouTube account back to life.

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