Close



Results 1 to 5 of 5
  1. #1
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Nebraska
    Posts
    4,575

    Default Headlight wiring

    I've seen numerous wiring diagrams, etc, but I have not seen pictures documenting some of the key points of the headlight wiring on the 86GT's.

    Does anyone have good pictures of what the headlight wiring looks like as it goes from the switch to the lights on the 1986GT ? Specifically where it branches out from the single lead inside the car to the wires required to feed the four eyes.

    Back when I had the dreaded headlamp flickering with random on/off with my 1986 GT. It got bad enough that it even did it on low beam. I was forced to do a roadside repair. I was able to trace the wires for the low beams and cut into them and proceeded to add in a relay and home run to the solenoid right on the roadside in a matter of about 10 minutes ..... and I had a sleeping little guy with me in the back seat.

    Fast forward nearly 20 years later and frankly I don't remember a whole lot about where I found the wire that came from the switch for the low-beams, but I know I added a relay there and ran a hot lead from the battery to the relay then reused the wires going to the headlights.

    The advantage of carrying an emergency spare starter relay I suppose.....

    We noticed with both my car and my son's 86GT both idling at night with the headlamps on is just how much brighter the lowbeams are in my car than his. It got us thinking -- its probably time to tackle doing the headlight relay thing fully on both cars in the most cost effective and clean manner possible.

    We'll probably also do some stuff to make the side marker lights indicate turning as a safety oriented change as well.
    -- James

    Favorite thing I’ve said that’s been requoted: “"40 year old beercan on wheels with too much motor"

    My four eyed foxes:
    "Trigger" - 86 Mustang GT - Black with red interior. 5.0 T5 built as Z. Original motor ~1/2 million miles. 18 yr daily, 10 a toy
    "Silver" - 85 Mustang Saleen 1985-006? (Lol) Rare 1E silver GT / charcoal interior. The car is a little bit of a mystery. Current project bought as a roller, tons of Saleen / Racecraft pedigree

    Also in the stable - my son’s car. 1986 Mustang GT Convertible. Black/Black/Black conversion. 93 leather. VM1 ECU. T5Z

    past foxes -
    1989 Mustang LX Sport 5.0 AOD white/tan black top. Once I ran this one down I caught a wife.
    Wife also had a 1987 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe in the 90's.

    I'm a four eyed pride supporter, are you? Become one today!
    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/payments.php

  2. #2
    FEP Senior Member droopie85gt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Cordova, TN
    Posts
    994

    Default

    On my 85, the low beams and high beams are tied together with splices then a run goes across the firewall to the passenger side and one set goes to the drivers side. I cut them back at the splice, tapped each one to a relay. So outters come on with low beam and inners only with high beam. I think I could tie the triggers together with a diode in between, so the high beams would keep the low beams on, but I am using aftermarket led headlights that have 2 sets of elements. On the low beams I just have the bottom wired up. On the high beams I have both wired up and it seems very bright. When and if I ever drive it, I'll see if I need the low beams on also.

    The relay mod is very good, because you limit the current thru the headlight switch, so it won't get as hot and should last longer, PLUS, you don't get much voltage drop across that old switch and wires...hence more volts to the lights and brighter lights.
    1985 GT, Sunroof, 5 Lug, Rear Discs, 01 Graphite Bullets, 88 forged piston shortblock, 2.02/1.60 Alum heads, Weiand Stealth, Holley C950 TBI, BBK Long tubes

  3. #3

    Default

    If you do come across any good 86 diagrams, please post them here. I can try to snap some images of my 86 HL harness / Fuse panel when pulled down after the holiday.

    I posted one diagram HERE if you havnt seen this one yet...

  4. #4
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Grand Junction, CO/RR TX
    Posts
    14,209
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  5. #5
    FEP Senior Member 854vragtop's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Greensboro, NC
    Posts
    556

    Default

    Just insert the relay trigger spade connectors from your relay box build into the factory sockets. That way you don't have to cut any factory wiring. I used dielectric grease to prevent oxidation on the spade connectors. I also trigger each Hi-beam and Low beam relay from BOTH the LH and RH sockets by using a Y connector just in case one of the spade connector/socket connections was to come loose, oxidize, etc. I've been running Hi-beam, low beam, and fog lights with this same set-up since 2007 without any issues. And, I haven't had to replace my Hi/low beam switch since.

    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...lays-installed



    https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/ECHLS6235


    My box was a 4" x 6" x 2" Radio Shack box with an aluminum sheet metal piece that fit inside the box. This is the closest one I found on Amazon (without the aluminum sheet). You'll have to source something to mount your electronics to (plastic or metal). https://www.amazon.com/Circuit-Speci...s%2C155&sr=8-2

    The 20 amp circuit breakers were also from NAPA.


    Here's what you'll need:
    4x6x2 Project box
    3 relays
    3 relay sockets
    4 NAPA Echlin LS6235 headlight sockets
    2 20 amp circuit breaker (I probably should have wired the fogs and Hi-beams off the same breaker, since the they never run at the same time). Both breakers are fed by +12v that connect to the starter solenoid (large red wire).
    wire (I matched the gage on the LS6235 sockets, but forget what it is)
    Last edited by 854vragtop; 12-26-2019 at 09:44 AM.
    '85 Mustang convertible GT, 5 speed, 4V
    Stock bottom end, Comp Cams XE264HR-14, GT-40P heads w/ Alex's springs, Weiand 8124 Street Warrior,
    Summit Racing 600CFM carb, 8.8 Turbo Coupe rear end w/ 3.55 gears, '94/'95 Cobra brakes, '85 Town Car M/C, '93 Cobra booster, MM Panhard Bar, MM Strut Tower Brace, MM 4 point K-member Brace

    '68 Mercury Cougar, w/ '88 5.0L, 4V
    My photo website:
    http://www.twilightphoto.com/

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •