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  1. #1
    FEP Senior Member OX1's Avatar
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    Default How to protect painted and detailed engine bay from sanding dust

    So I kind of did it backwards. Completely detailed and painted engine compartment
    and all the motor/acces/turbo parts.

    Now I'm kind of leaning towards getting entire car painted. I will remove entire front
    end and have it painted off car, but not sure how I would keep my shiny new eng
    compartment from getting irreversibly coated with sanding dust and maybe even overspray.

    Any ideas?
    86 Capri, 5.0, 5Spd, A9L QH/BE, 47 lb Inj PMAS 3" MAF, Single T44 Turbo, Front Mount IC, TW170,
    Stock Cam, Explr Intake/TB, 1.7 Rockers, CF dual friction clutch, 3" DP, 2.5" full Exh, 3.27, 11.932 @ 115.78
    84 LTD, 331-10:1, TW170/Exprl Intake, 47 lbs inj/80 mm LMAF, Full Duals, Quarterhorse, Vortech 7PSI, Lentech AOD, 5 lug Mk VII brakes/rear, Eibach Sway bars, Cobra HB (dads ride, but I fix it )

  2. #2
    FEP Power Member conmech's Avatar
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    Default

    https://www.amazon.com/Collision-Cra.../dp/B010RBM6CG

    Wrap up areas that you want to protect. Essentially, it is 36" wide saran wrap.
    conmech - aka Marshall
    Pending build-1983 Mercury Capri RS NOT staying as it left the showroom floor......
    Sonic blue pearl, sand beige, netted halos, FR500 wheels and shiny under the hood.

  3. #3
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Default

    Visqueen polyethylene sheeting is 3-6 mil.

  4. #4
    FEP Senior Member OX1's Avatar
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    Default

    Thanks, will look into the sheeting
    86 Capri, 5.0, 5Spd, A9L QH/BE, 47 lb Inj PMAS 3" MAF, Single T44 Turbo, Front Mount IC, TW170,
    Stock Cam, Explr Intake/TB, 1.7 Rockers, CF dual friction clutch, 3" DP, 2.5" full Exh, 3.27, 11.932 @ 115.78
    84 LTD, 331-10:1, TW170/Exprl Intake, 47 lbs inj/80 mm LMAF, Full Duals, Quarterhorse, Vortech 7PSI, Lentech AOD, 5 lug Mk VII brakes/rear, Eibach Sway bars, Cobra HB (dads ride, but I fix it )

  5. #5
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Ya less cost you can get it at any big box home center.
    Was thinking could use Scotch HD duct tape to secure it but unsure if tape's adhesive would peel off the bay paint cleanly.
    Scotch HD sticks, holds, plus peels off cleaner than T-Rex or Gorilla brands. Most cheapo silver stuff is junk, leaves residue.
    Doubt if any blue painter tape is tacky enough.
    Thinking wrap the engine like shipping fine china, then another layer to cover engine compartment.
    Wonder if any over spray would rise up from under car into the bay?

  6. #6
    FEP Senior Member OX1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gr79 View Post
    Ya less cost you can get it at any big box home center.
    Was thinking could use Scotch HD duct tape to secure it but unsure if tape's adhesive would peel off the bay paint cleanly.
    Scotch HD sticks, holds, plus peels off cleaner than T-Rex or Gorilla brands. Most cheapo silver stuff is junk, leaves residue.
    Doubt if any blue painter tape is tacky enough.
    Thinking wrap the engine like shipping fine china, then another layer to cover engine compartment.
    Wonder if any over spray would rise up from under car into the bay?
    I've thought about it for a while, and it seemed like it would be virtually impossible to keep out the sanding dust
    without, like you said, taping it off on relatively new paint in the eng compartment. Figured I'd post up see if anyone
    had any other ideas. I will look into that tape, having never used that specific one/type.

    The other option is pulling out the drivetrain and larger items on firewall/inner fenders. Lot of work, but what isn't.
    86 Capri, 5.0, 5Spd, A9L QH/BE, 47 lb Inj PMAS 3" MAF, Single T44 Turbo, Front Mount IC, TW170,
    Stock Cam, Explr Intake/TB, 1.7 Rockers, CF dual friction clutch, 3" DP, 2.5" full Exh, 3.27, 11.932 @ 115.78
    84 LTD, 331-10:1, TW170/Exprl Intake, 47 lbs inj/80 mm LMAF, Full Duals, Quarterhorse, Vortech 7PSI, Lentech AOD, 5 lug Mk VII brakes/rear, Eibach Sway bars, Cobra HB (dads ride, but I fix it )

  7. #7
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    The issue with sanding dust and overspray is that they are both fine particles that float and get into EVERYTHING! I never do a full restoration on a car with the engine installed due to the fact that its extremely difficult to keep sanding dust, overspray, etc. from getting on the engine, wiring, hoses, etc. My personal choice is to pull all of that first so I don't have to spend the extra time and trouble dealing with, but I also HATE masking stuff off.

    Even spraying in a booth environment you will get overspray that floats underneath and will settle on things that you never expected. So you have to essentially wrap the engine completely not just cover it. I also highly recommend masking the bottom of the car to the ground when sanding or spraying to prevent the sanding dust from blowing around and under the car only to eventually float on top of everything you didn't cover.

    If your engine bay paint was applied properly and correctly there shouldn't be any issues taping directly on it with good quality tape. I prefer 3M yellow or green. Both need to be removed within a couple of days to prevent tearing and shredding while trying to peel up. If the engine bay was not completely cleaned and prepped properly you always risk the chance of the paint peeling due to the taping no matter what brand. I generally will tape off with the 3M tape and then possibly use some Duct tape for plastic sheeting when needed, but I don't like to use Duct tape directly on new paint or even prepped metal. I prefer to apply the Duct tape to the 3M tape to prevent any glue residue when removing, especially if blasting or sanding near the tape edges.

    Its a PITA, but I would seriously consider pulling the engine. If not, then definitely mask everything WELL! I also highly recommend cheap aluminum foil for masking those odd shaped objects that are hard to mask with paper or even plastic. Works great for M/C, wire harnesses, etc. holds its shape and easy to remove. I have also had good luck laying a large sheet of plastic masking down, drive the car over the sheeting, then pull the sheeting up to mask the bottom of the car off. Its pretty much gift wrapping an elephant, but when you can't or don't pull the drivetrain it can help to prevent overspray, etc. on a detailed chassis and engine bay. Major PITA, but less work than pulling the engine. Good Luck!
    Last edited by wraithracing; 11-24-2019 at 07:33 AM.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
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  8. #8
    FEP Senior Member OX1's Avatar
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    I think you are right. I spent way too much time making this engine look perfect.
    Of course with a single turbo kit, it's a nightmare to pull engine, but so be it.

    I'd still have to mask off engine comp, so I don't have to individually mask off every part
    I don't take out.
    86 Capri, 5.0, 5Spd, A9L QH/BE, 47 lb Inj PMAS 3" MAF, Single T44 Turbo, Front Mount IC, TW170,
    Stock Cam, Explr Intake/TB, 1.7 Rockers, CF dual friction clutch, 3" DP, 2.5" full Exh, 3.27, 11.932 @ 115.78
    84 LTD, 331-10:1, TW170/Exprl Intake, 47 lbs inj/80 mm LMAF, Full Duals, Quarterhorse, Vortech 7PSI, Lentech AOD, 5 lug Mk VII brakes/rear, Eibach Sway bars, Cobra HB (dads ride, but I fix it )

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