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  1. #26

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    Thanks guys. Y'all were correct in the assumption that the cam was not installed correctly. Not sure how this happened, but i'm in the middle of remedying the situation. Here's what I saw when i pulled the front cover...
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    Pretty embarrassing and surprising that it actually ran at all advanced that far. I put it in over 10 years ago, and thought I knew what I was doing... ugh.
    Went ahead and pulled the cam to verify what's in there... here's the markings on the backside...
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    Here's the rockers I'm planning on getting: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/c...7-16/overview/

    Going to order up some new rockers and pushrods this evening (cyber monday deals) and put it back together correctly this time!

  2. #27
    FEP Senior Member
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    May 2016
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    Lake City Pa 16423
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    You will need to check for bent valves now. The easiest way to do this without pulling off the heads, is to remove all of the pushrods and use air pressure put into the spark plug hole with the hose from a compression tester with the valve stem removed. If the intake valves are bent, you'll hear the air coming out the intake, and the same out the exhaust.

  3. #28

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    Quote Originally Posted by dynodon64 View Post
    You will need to check for bent valves now. The easiest way to do this without pulling off the heads, is to remove all of the pushrods and use air pressure put into the spark plug hole with the hose from a compression tester with the valve stem removed. If the intake valves are bent, you'll hear the air coming out the intake, and the same out the exhaust.
    I did a compression test and got really good #'s on all 8 - 235 psi give or take a pound or two.

    Wouldn't it be apparent in the compression test if an intake valve was bent? As in zero psi?

  4. #29

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    Quote Originally Posted by graphicdesigner80 View Post
    I did a compression test and got really good #'s on all 8 - 235 psi give or take a pound or two.

    Wouldn't it be apparent in the compression test if an intake valve was bent? As in zero psi?
    The best thing of factory pushrods is they bend before the valves. If you did bend a valve it would show lower numbers. Another thing you can do is spray a little wd40 or dump a little oil in the spark plug and that will seal the oil rings. Giving you any blow by to be in the valves. I think your good. The ticking noise must have been the valve touching. Your picture shows way off IF you timed your cam at 4* advanced.


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  5. #30

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    *pushrod touching the head


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  6. #31

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    Quote Originally Posted by 82MoreDoorFox View Post
    The best thing of factory pushrods is they bend before the valves. If you did bend a valve it would show lower numbers. Another thing you can do is spray a little wd40 or dump a little oil in the spark plug and that will seal the oil rings. Giving you any blow by to be in the valves. I think your good. The ticking noise must have been the valve touching. Your picture shows way off IF you timed your cam at 4* advanced.
    Agreed. I'm going to do another compression test after everything gets put back together just to be totally sure nothing's wrong.

    The chain has a small amount of slack, but nothing that would cause it to jump time. Book says 1/2" slack is the limit. It's less than that.

    How it ever ran in the first place is a head-scratcher.

  7. #32
    FEP Senior Member burntorange84's Avatar
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    GT (georgetown), TX
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    K,

    Using a leak-down tester would be the easier way than pulling heads. I got one if you want to borrow one, but they are pretty inexpensive.

    -j
    _________________________________________
    1984.5 Mustang GT: org. 5.0, 5spd, 3.27's;
    GT-40's w/93 exhaust; t-bird TC brakes....

  8. #33

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    Quote Originally Posted by burntorange84 View Post
    K,

    Using a leak-down tester would be the easier way than pulling heads. I got one if you want to borrow one, but they are pretty inexpensive.

    -j
    Hey Jeff! Thanks for the offer. I have one and am going to double-check to make sure nothing got bent. Hopefully I got lucky!

    I'll keep you posted when it finally gets road-worthy.

  9. #34
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Dec 2016
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    Nebraska
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    I would use leverage to actuate the valves while the piston is down the hole in each cylinder

    usually a bent valve is hard to move in the guide in addition to valve sealing problems

  10. #35

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    Finally an update.

    Got everything back together. Took a lot longer since I had to paint everything, but it's alive and started right up. Still need to dial in the mixture screws, but not too bad considering it's just 1/2 turn out on all of them. Timing is 10* BTDC.

    Now the fun begins.

    Thanks again for everyone's tips & suggestions!

    https://youtu.be/Tabo5plLIOY

  11. #36

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    Nice!!


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