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  1. #1

    Default What's the Best Complete Suspension Package?

    Okay, please tell me what you guys think.

    I have a 1980 Mustang, 347 Windor stroker, T-5 manual, 5 lug conversion, four wheel disc brake conversion and 17 inch Ponies with Continental performance tires. Entire suspension remains stock. So here's what I need:

    - A complete suspension package that does not cost more than the car and my house. Need everything... K member, shocks/struts, lowering springs, strut tower braces, control arms, full length subframe connectors, caster/camber plates, bushings... you guys know the drill. I need everything.

    - Application - 95% street, 5% track days on ROAD COURSE. We're not building a dragster. We're after a handling package.

    Maximum Motorsports appears to have the most complete packages so far, but their prices seem prohibitive. Steeda's packages are mostly for the aero Foxes. So I'm still looking.

    Any suggestions? Thanks!
    Last edited by sopwith21; 11-04-2019 at 12:08 PM.

  2. #2
    FEP Senior Member
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    From what I have seen, the Maximum Motorsports parts are well engineered and well built and just plain work. Are they more expensive than buying some Chinese knock-offs on ebay? Yes. This seems like one of those get what you pay for instances though. You can upgrade things in stages. You don't have to do it all at once. That is what I am doing. I'd start with subframe connectors and work your way out from there. Just my opinion. Others here have vastly more experience with this chassis than I.
    '89 XR-7 5 Speed
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  3. #3
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    I will second that MM stuff is worth the price. They are not the cheapest, but definitely not the most expensive. You get what you pay for and good stuff made in USA is not cheap. The stuff just plain works and doesn't have the problems and issues others do. Oh if you want to see some really expensive stuff, consider checking out Griggs Racing. Very nice quality stuff that works really well, but definitely more expensive than Maximum Motorsports. Also check out CorteX Racing again some really nice stuff that works too, but very pricey IMHO. They are more focused on the S197 cars and the late 60's Mustangs, but they do offer Fox Body stuff as well as SN95.

    You can buy the MM stuff piece by piece if needed or do a whole package at one time depending on your budget. Just depends on what you really want to do and what your budget is. Do you really need a K member? The MM K member is great, but if 95% of your driving is street driving that might be a place you can save a big chunk of $$.

    As for a whole suspension package cost, I do find it humorous that most Fox Mustang guys complain about the $$, yet they have $3-$5-$10K in an engine package and never think twice about it.

    I would recommend starting out at least with the full length SFC, strut tower brace, 4 point K member brace from MM. Add to that a quality set of struts and shocks, set of CC Plates and you will most likely be amazed how much better you Mustang handles to begin with.

    I assume based upon your stated needs that all of your control arms need bushings and ball joints. You can install new bushings in all of the OEM control arms if you like. The rear lowers are not really serviceable since only one company that I have found makes the proper bushings and their cost is virtually the same as a set of rear lower control arms from MM, so definitely the better way to go. You don't state which spindle you are running, but you can use the OEM Ford Sn95 ball joints in the Fox control arm. Much better balljoint than any aftermarket option and not too expensive if you buy the BJ from MM.

    The Fox suspension is essentially the same from 79-93 with the exception of bushings, spring rates, and spindles. The 87-93 spindles if 4 lug or the SN95 spindles if going 5 lug are the ones to have for any performance struts. You can use packages from companies like Steeda, Kenny Brown, Agent 47, etc. that are "for the Aero cars" You might consider giving MM tech line and call and see what they recommend for your ride. Great company to deal with and very helpful in getting the right parts. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
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    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
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  4. #4

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    Thanks for your thoughts, guys. The spindles are already SN95 because of the disc brake/five lug swap. So we're a step ahead.

  5. #5
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Just an FYI in regards to Maximum Motorsports. This is the time of the year that they run weekend sales. Generally will save you @ 10% on specific items each weekend. Unfortunately you don't know what is on sale until sometime Friday or so and the sale goes live Saturday morning at 12:01 am IIRC.

    You should be able to pick up many of the items you want/need if you are willing to watch the sale every weekend. I don't recall if they put any of the full kits on sale or not, but if you want to piece some stuff together its a good way to save at least a little bit of cash. As long as each order exceeds $147 shipping is free, excluding roll bars. Good luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  6. #6
    FEP Senior Member
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    As mentioned, and I'll add a 3rd recommendation for MM, you can piece their kits together as you have budget. I have about half of the Road & Track kit so far, and am slowly getting the other parts as their weekend sales offer them and I have time / budget for it. My car is going 50/50 between street and autocross for 2020, and has previously been 100% street. Most of their parts don't need a lot of tech service, but maybe the springs and shocks/struts would benefit from some discussion. If you're piecing it together over time, I'd suggest laying out the order in your mind to prevent having to take too many things apart multiple times to add / replace parts later. You can also add a few parts, and grow into them gradually as seat time allows and you get comfortable with the changes.
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  7. #7
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Many of the other parts out there are really just junk. Time is money and it takes a lot of both to put in bad parts and take them back off.

    Id go MM and not look back.

    Heres the type of crap other guys will sell you. All over the road is an understatement!

    In the dumpster where it belongs! The welds were showing signs of fatigue too. All in around 1000 miles. My car doesn’t launch that hard on street tires either.
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    Last edited by erratic50; 11-06-2019 at 08:06 AM.

  8. #8
    FEP Power Member STL79Coupe's Avatar
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    I'm a drag racer so I won't suggest any of the other companies, but is Griggs racing still around. As you stated MM is expensive, but they'll be the best for the money and you can have peace of mind.
    Keith formerly STLPONDS
    '79 V8 coupe in the works!
    Build thread http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?t=89153

  9. #9
    FEP Power Member qtrracer's Avatar
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    MM pieces will transform the car. I have their whole suspension catalogue on my 86. Since budget is a concern, pick one end of the car to work on with MM upgrades in mind. For example, you can put a PHB on the rear, remove the DS upper and you end up with a PM3L. You will need to increase your rear spring rate to account for the reduced bind. This change alone will make a huge handling difference and allow for a T/A upgrade in the future using the PHB and springs. Up front you can use the stock k, but get the MM front C/O kit, CC plates, stock sn95 front a-arms and MM bump steer. All but the sn95 arms will work with the MM K when resources permit. Handling, but likely as important, ride quality, will be dramatically improved without the cost of the pricier MM pieces.

  10. #10

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    I have posted in here a complete tq arm from Griggs. I also have the MM rear springs that will work for the tq arm. The arm is used but in great shape. Probably the cheapest you can get into a tq arm for.
    Smart shopping can find you some used low mileage parts. Nothing says you have to buy new and pieces come up for sale all the time.

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

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