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  1. #1

    Default 5.0 roller rocker question

    Wassup everybody,

    I have a 85 carburated foxbody, I swapped my heads and cam out, but used the original pushrods. The heads are gt40 3 bar (no thermactor ports) I have a set New scorpian 1.6 roller rockers I've been trying to install on them, but incant get them all to stay tight. I've tried to tighten them on both for both firing order for the H. O and non, mine is a H. O My cam is a trickflow stage 1 new lifters too. So can somebody tell me what I'm doing wrong? Or os there some kind of trick to the trade I'm unaware of at the moment?

  2. #2

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    Rail or stud mount rockers ?

  3. #3
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kimbe123 View Post
    Wassup everybody,

    I have a 85 carburated foxbody, I swapped my heads and cam out, but used the original pushrods. The heads are gt40 3 bar (no thermactor ports) I have a set New scorpian 1.6 roller rockers I've been trying to install on them, but incant get them all to stay tight. I've tried to tighten them on both for both firing order for the H. O and non, mine is a H. O My cam is a trickflow stage 1 new lifters too. So can somebody tell me what I'm doing wrong? Or os there some kind of trick to the trade I'm unaware of at the moment?
    Many tricks, K.

    See Brads experience

    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...S-Build/page31, page 32 on 6.350" pushrods, and what to do if the cam Base Circle Diameter changes from stock.

    In Fords expert Al Turner days, no engine ever got shims for springs, and everything was Posi-locked and blue printed for bolt on adjustables. When the Boss 302's were raced, the special roller rockers were always a 100% custom install with this stuff being checked and indexed

    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...50#post1908950

    Quote Originally Posted by mike357 View Post
    .......

    Note: I just finished another 357 build number 3, and this time, the push rod length cam out to be exactly the same length as a stock "Dodge" 318 motor", so you will never know unless you do it right; every build will be different. If anyone on here or in the known universe tells you they can build a bunch of motors and use the same "length" pushrods...run faster.

  4. #4

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    I believe rail, yea i remember trying to figure out what to use

  5. #5
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    Great OG video from Badshoe here. Anyone can follow his instructions...

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z8NW0R0kDiY
    '85 GT

  6. #6
    84 Cougar, 90 HO with 700DP, Edelbrock RPM intake, 1.7 RRs, shorty's and SS exh, T-5, KC clutch, Hurst pro billet, line loc, 8.8, 4.10s, suspension mods....blah, blah,blah.

    71 Comet, 289, Liberty TL, 9", 6.00s, 11.9x @ 112.... blah, blah, blah.

  7. #7
    FEP Member bkm's Avatar
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    Deleted
    Last edited by bkm; 11-01-2019 at 10:54 PM.

  8. #8
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    All extruded or cast roller rockers with needle bearings without studs and poly locks won't be a satisfactory long term solution. Cost of iron head to 3/8 or 7/16 studs with stainless steel 1.6 or 1.7 Ford part number Crane or Crowers is your best option. Your most likely okay with your piston yo valve clearance. You add a 3/8 aluminum rocker cover adaptor, and make the descision to never risk killing the engine. Factory Quality Control engines in the early years used bolt on stamped rockers. Ford moved back to iron heads.

    The race Trans Am cars migrated to really good Total Performance rollers, and the last 351 Saleens and Ford SN95 Cobra R 351s had Crane rockers. The 268, 295 and 335 Falcon XR8's and Tickford T3s and TE50s used three types of afternarket roller rockers, none were really reliable. The biggest weak link isnt the block, but the valve gear. Take your time, spend a little more and make sure your efforts dont result in cracked rockers, needle rollers and lock nuts in your sump.

    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...e-408-in-my-GT

  9. #9

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    Lol i saw alot of videos on YouTube and saw good reviews about them so i grabbed them i had some proform ones but i bought them used and changed my mind on them

    Quote Originally Posted by quickshift View Post

  10. #10

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    More relevant reading on this subject below.

    https://forums.corral.net/threads/st...2#post-4200190
    Jack Hidley
    Maximum Motorsports Tech Support

  11. #11
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    The cast in pedastool, studmounted conversion, or shaft mounted discussion is good and healthy. Only issue I have is that extruded aluminum roller rockers dont last. Chevy kept theres stamped steel. Roller tips might help valve stem and valve guide long life, but everything has to work. Fords early Quality Control built race engines from 1968 to the 1972 engines in 2i9 Tunnel Port, Boss 302, Australian rebuilt 351 W and 351C used 100 right measurement without shims. That Skunk Works process was to make iron Small Blocks win Trans AM, and long distance SCAA and overseas CAMS races. I think Gord returned to that Mini Productionline approach in the early 90s with the GT40 and later the Aussie Tickford GT40P headed engines from 1998 onwards. When the process started again with the last Tickford 5.0 and 5.6 engines, it was back to sled fulcrums and bolt on roller rockers, without shims.

    Ultimately, you decide for yourself if this 5.0 id gonna be around for 125000 miles. Alloy roller rockers might help valve steam and guides, but a broken rocker could take out a whole engine. Work eithon your budget. I like stud mounts.

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