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  1. #1

    Default Carburated 85 fox exhaust

    Hey all,

    So i deleted my smog pump, the bypass tube(i believe thats what it's called), and thermactor tube then i got stuck because i didnt take any before photos. So far I've reinstalled the actual smog delete, but I'm lost running the carb lines as well as what else to cap off and delete. I have photos not sure what other information I'm missing, but that's the gest of it I'm not to great with reading schematics so I'm getting lost reading the diagram under the hood
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    Last edited by Kimbe123; 10-26-2019 at 01:30 AM. Reason: Title edit

  2. #2
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Default

    Okay. If you are looking for an engine bay clean-up then you might be in for some extra work.


    Board guru The Wizard has this picture.



    Option 1 is do minimum.Short sheet the air pump ( S/P = Smog Pump)...do that with a shorter belt.

    Get a shorter 2.0 liter Focus belt and deactivate the AIR pump.

    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...og-pump-delete

  3. #3
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    This post shows the detail with a very important note about the 1985 TAB/TAD Solenoids by JA Cook....


    See http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...B-TAD-headache



    Quote Originally Posted by MurPHy View Post
    The air pump doesn't have any vacuum or electrical lines running to it. Only thing that plugs into it is a rubber hose that goes to two vacuum actuated valves, then to two metal tubes. One goes to the back of the heads, the other to upstream of the catalytic converters.






    That should be it. Decide if you want to go further by reading this.




    See both pages of this.

    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...t-can-i-remove


    It looks to me that you need to keep the evaporative and purge emissions in place like Cale did on his 84 Capri. You'll need to read and compare. The best info



    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...749#post741749

  4. #4

    Default

    This is really helpful thanks I appreciate it I'll go the belt stuff I don't think I need help with instead of taking out the bracket I just put a smog pump delete pulley in so I can use the original belt I mainly worried about the connections in the photos wondering where they hook up to, the first and third picture I believe those lines are to the carburetor the long run to the rear and shoulder went to the front I'm mainly wondering about the second photo and the other post I noticed that he was mentioning taking it out but I didn't fully look at the thread yet. I definitely am keeping the charcoal canister in seeing as it might help on gas even if it's a little bit also from that second photo is a line on it that says carb would that be the line to the EGR spacer I'm sorry carb spacer?

  5. #5

    Default

    I believe the orange connects to the headers while the black u looking one attaches to the carb spacer right?
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  6. #6
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Thats it.Upstream air is to the back of the head crossover, the dark line.


    Downstream is a different line with a check valve; not the one with the browny colored silicon line. The under carb spacer line is for operating the EGR. Safely cap the Check Valve line and tge upstream line. Where they feed to by whatever means you can.

    These 4V HO's had about 93 different kinds of emissions work-a-rounds so they could avoid having Thin Film Ignition and a feedback o2 sensor like Mopar, Chev and the CFi Fords used. So its little bit if a crap shoot trying to figure it all out.Good work. Youre 4/5ths the way home.

  7. #7

    Default The reason

    Really only deleting this stuff because i got the wrong setup for heads my gt40s don't have thermactor ports and I've installed the heads already it was a pita so i don't want to take them off again but there was seemingly no reason to keep the smog Pump, thermactor tube, and the fat hose to the pump I would have kept everything then the heads threw me off. I really want to get this engine started though been a while since I've heard her purr, im hoping deleting that tree doesn't mess with the defrost i read about in another post well skimmed.

    Quote Originally Posted by xctasy View Post
    This post shows the detail with a very important note about the 1985 TAB/TAD Solenoids by JA Cook....


    See http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...B-TAD-headache











    That should be it. Decide if you want to go further by reading this.




    See both pages of this.

    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...t-can-i-remove


    It looks to me that you need to keep the evaporative and purge emissions in place like Cale did on his 84 Capri. You'll need to read and compare. The best info



    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...749#post741749

  8. #8

    Default

    Thanks man big motivated haha ill put more together and continue to upload more pics

    Quote Originally Posted by xctasy View Post
    Thats it.Upstream air is to the back of the head crossover, the dark line.


    Downstream is a different line with a check valve; not the one with the browny colored silicon line. The under carb spacer line is for operating the EGR. Safely cap the Check Valve line and tge upstream line. Where they feed to by whatever means you can.

    These 4V HO's had about 93 different kinds of emissions work-a-rounds so they could avoid having Thin Film Ignition and a feedback o2 sensor like Mopar, Chev and the CFi Fords used. So its little bit if a crap shoot trying to figure it all out.Good work. Youre 4/5ths the way home.

  9. #9
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Yah, the 93-97 GT40 heads burn much cleaner due to the chamber size. For the 97 on wards, it was spark plug positions and the chamber size changed again (GT40P).


    Two pages to read below, and s video.

    There were 1500 factory aluminum heads on Australian XR8 5.0's with the 295 hp engine for 12 months, then they reverted back to good old iron GT4OP's on the 335 hp 342 stroker. They were CNC machined by Yella Terra Australia for extra performance.

    Never forget, the 1991 European Pantera 2 which was downgraded to an extensively modified 5 liter Mustang engine that year...it generally made 305 hp with your heads. The next year, it was downgraded to the 248 hp US emissiobs version. Each generally had more power than most of the US emissions 351C used in US Panteras till 1989. (248 in the Pantera L, to as much as 300 hp depending on the year and State emissions requirements).

    See the only 300 hp AmeriSport 87 GTS-5.
    The Pantera 2 made 5 hp more than the US emissions engines

    https://youtu.be/j3OJGBbfWmc

    The iron head GT40 and GT40P info

    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...nd-GT40p-heads

    The change happened with the 1993 and then the OBDII versions. Generally, its okay to fake hook up the lines since there is no malfunction light on carb 85s.

    The purge and evap and TAD/TAB solenoids can stay, so can the EGR. The Carb 83 to 85 4V's are a twin stack of 52 cards each. One change can impinge on 104 other parts because the 83 to 85s had many state and model year changes. The AIR system should be an easy delete compared to the other stuff.

  10. #10

    Default Currently

    So i put more together and blocked of some others the rear of the carb is straight just need to figure out these lines because i keep getting lost lol but if i understanding correct it'll be Better to keep this little tree and it hooks to the carb spacer where some people have capped off... These read #e1Te-98963-ea And those lines all are connected but go to the nipple you're pointing at in the photo of the spacer while as we agreed that black house from earlier photos is the one opposite. Now with the red Nipples do i cap though or can i just delete the smaller hoses and take those out I'm assuming the vacuums direction aren't all going the same way though due to the valves or are they 🤔 if same goes condensing that little tree would be so easy. Lastly, the long hose i have in line the u shape im assuming that was running to my divertor bypass whatever hose lol and i can remove and cap that closer to the firewall yes?
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  11. #11

    Default

    The thing that throws me off is how the one says dist but routes to the carb?

    Quote Originally Posted by xctasy View Post
    Yah, the 93-97 GT40 heads burn much cleaner due to the chamber size. For the 97 on wards, it was spark plug positions and the chamber size changed again (GT40P).


    Two pages to read below, and s video.

    There were 1500 factory aluminum heads on Australian XR8 5.0's with the 295 hp engine for 12 months, then they reverted back to good old iron GT4OP's on the 335 hp 342 stroker. They were CNC machined by Yella Terra Australia for extra performance.

    Never forget, the 1991 European Pantera 2 which was downgraded to an extensively modified 5 liter Mustang engine that year...it generally made 305 hp with your heads. The next year, it was downgraded to the 248 hp US emissiobs version. Each generally had more power than most of the US emissions 351C used in US Panteras till 1989. (248 in the Pantera L, to as much as 300 hp depending on the year and State emissions requirements).

    See the only 300 hp AmeriSport 87 GTS-5.
    The Pantera 2 made 5 hp more than the US emissions engines

    https://youtu.be/j3OJGBbfWmc

    The iron head GT40 and GT40P info

    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...nd-GT40p-heads

    The change happened with the 1993 and then the OBDII versions. Generally, its okay to fake hook up the lines since there is no malfunction light on carb 85s.

    The purge and evap and TAD/TAB solenoids can stay, so can the EGR. The Carb 83 to 85 4V's are a twin stack of 52 cards each. One change can impinge on 104 other parts because the 83 to 85s had many state and model year changes. The AIR system should be an easy delete compared to the other stuff.

  12. #12

    Default

    Sorry to keep bugging you with questions about the same thing I just want to make sure I get it right some of the links you posted for me to check out don't have the photos I feel are really essential in what I'm doing but yes I'm almost done just have to finish capping off hose and nipples plug the rest up to the carb up hopefully i have it right I should be good on that... Next is wiring harness on driver side and then roller rockers i cant get mine to stay tight.

  13. #13

    Default

    If your eliminating the smog then why not pull all junk out? It’s not doing anything but creating clutter

  14. #14

    Default

    I mean I still want to keep the charcoal canister attached because even if it's one mile per gallon I still want to say it as much gas as possible for it to be a daily driver and then I don't want that gas smell either good I keep reading about

    Quote Originally Posted by badnightrain View Post
    If your eliminating the smog then why not pull all junk out? It’s not doing anything but creating clutter

  15. #15

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Kimbe123 View Post
    I believe the orange connects to the headers while the black u looking one attaches to the carb spacer right?
    Are you eliminating the metal line in the pic ? I need one, I’m returning a 85 back to stock, I’d buy it


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    Last edited by airplanedriver; 11-02-2019 at 11:29 PM.

  16. #16

    Default

    Yes sorry I'm keeping it but if i hear about or see one ill let you know

  17. #17

    Default

    I may have that line. Let me know if you still need it and if I have it I’ll certainly send it your way.

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