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  1. #1

    Default What to consider when using a Mexican block as replacement

    The time has come that I am looking at replacement engine for the Ghia Coupe. The plan is to pull my all stock motor and trans and store it. It will be replaced with a 347 and T5. There is a built motor in my area that has a Mexican block and want to know if my factory serpentine system/accessories will all bolt up. The end game is to keep the look mostly stock. Anything else I need to consider?

  2. #2
    FEP Power Member mcb82gt's Avatar
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    My limited knowledge, I thought they were just a different alloy metal. I don't know why your stock serpentine system wouldn't fit the same.
    Mike

    Now stang-less.

    88 Cougar 5.0

  3. #3
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    https://www.sopwithmotorsports.com/f...an-302-engine/
    Is a Mexican 302 more desirable, and if so, why?

    From a performance standpoint, the Mexican 302's are perhaps a bit more desirable. They are said to have a higher nickel content in the iron used to cast the blocks, although some debate this claim. What is known is that the main bearing caps are wider and the block is thicker, forming a stronger base. The Mexican blocks weigh a bit more than their northern counterparts, although the difference is negligible (about 10 lbs).

    The Mexican blocks offer no advantage over modern aftermarket short blocks, but they are a low-cost alternative for purists who want original Ford factory parts with a bit more overall strength.

  4. #4

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    Thx guys. Maybe my question wasn’t quite clear enough. I had read a couple posts that had stated that the front accessories/brackets of the serpentine system would not bolt up to these early blocks. Is that true?

  5. #5
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    The block I have came out of a Mexican Fairmont.
    It had all the stock accessories, so I would have to say they are exactly the same.

  6. #6
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...h-block-to-usehttp://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...block-opinions


    The two casting rakers that supply moltern iron to the green sand moulds sometimes foul the later ancillary drives, but you can grind them back. The Blooghound Gang Boobies....

    The Heco En Mexico block is based on the 289 HiPo tooling, so you get 10 pounds of the same spec cast iron junk in all the right places..main bearing caps, decks, and bores, without the Bill Gay shell moulding 130 to 90 thou bore thicknesses the 69 on wards Cleveland Engine plant engines had. The average wall thickness was pulled back from 243 thou to 187 with the US Cleveland plant engines as a metal management process. In Mexico and Australia, there was no need to take 56 thou out of every thin wall surface. This info was supplied by Ak Miller, and it relates to the small six in line 200/250 and all the Stirret designed 255/302 and 351 Windsors, and the Martel 335 series 351C/351M and 400's. In 1978 a service upgrade pushed up the casting thicknessrs again to the older pre 1969 thicknesses in the 351M and last 400's due to cracking in service. The foreign Small blocks and the Big Six and the Big Block 385 Lima engines were all pre 1969 wall thicknesses...those engines never got the downgrade. The FT engines last made as 361's in 1977 F100's and the Ecconolines and bigger F650 and bigger trucks, and all the 332 to 427/428 FE's never got the shell moulding downgrade either.

    Last note...for 1985 the 302 engines got a slightly increased metal thickness in bores and cylinder block deck thickness, but it wasnt anywhere near as thick as a pre 69 US 289 or Mexican 302.


    See all the great info from 2007 to 2017 too

    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...n-a-302-handle



    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...h-block-to-use

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by Monty78 View Post
    The block I have came out of a Mexican Fairmont.
    It had all the stock accessories, so I would have to say they are exactly the same.
    Ok so this is confirmation that the factory serpentine accessories will bolt up to Mexican block. Thx.

  8. #8

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    Accessories bolt to the holes in the heads and timing cover bolts. The Mexican block will work fine. As far as their strength I think that they can be compared to the strength of the old Motorsports D50 block. A bit better than stock but not a race block.

    Jess
    Previously owned;
    1979 Mustang, v6 swapped to EFI 393, custom installed m122 blower, 4r70w trans, Megasquirt II, T-top swaped in.
    1990 Mustang, 545 BBF, C-4 with brake, ladder bars.
    1983 Mustang, 1984 SVO Mustang
    1984 Mustang convertible, v6 swapped to 351
    1986 Mustang GT, 1989 Mustang GT convertible
    1992 Mustang coupe, 4 swapped to 302

  9. #9
    FEP Power Member vintageracer's Avatar
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    I ran 1969/1970 "Mexican" 302 Blocks in my Vintage Race 66 Shelby GT350 exclusively with a one time exception. Never had a problem with a 1969/1970 "Mexican" block.

    In the Mid 2000's the lone exception was when I needed an additional engine and could not quickly source a good 1969/1970 "Mexican" block for the build. I purchased a BRAND NEW Ford NONE SVO 302/5.0 roller block. Yes a standard 5.0 roller block. Built it and raced it ONCE!

    The late model 302 roller block split right down the middle of the lifter bore shifter from 3rd to 4th down the back straightaway at VIR right after the "Oak Tree" turn on the 3rd practice session. Blew EVERYTHING straight down! Crank broke in 4 pieces! Could not steer the car. Only thing salvageable were the heads, intake and carb.

    Lesson learned!

    From then on only good 1969/1970 "Mexican" 302 blocks or new for SVO blocks!
    Mike
    Remember, "Drive Fast, Turn Heads, Break Hearts!"

    1995 Ford Powerstroke F350 "Centurion" STRETCHED Crew Cab Dually

    I like "Cut & Coach Built" vehicles!

    www.musclecardeals.com


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