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  1. #1

    Default 1979-93 mustang sve spring & kyb shock/strut kit

    Hey Everyone,

    I was looking to replace my OEM suspension with something a little better but that is budget minded. Has anyone used the SVE lowering spring kit? I wont be going to the track with it just looking for a nicer ride and slightly lower stance. My car is a 1985 mustang GT. Still have the stock wheels but hoping to upgrade those next year also

    Thanks guys

  2. #2

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    As for the springs, don't know, but I stay away from any KYB shock or strut, just too firm. If you have the later model spindles, I would say go on ebay and get a set of Tokico blue's for $130. A good budget shock for a super cheap price.

    Spend any extra on a good set of lowering springs.

    Kenny

  3. #3
    FEP Power Member
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    Any suggestions for springs that lower an 85 GT no more than an inch?

  4. #4
    FEP Power Member mcb82gt's Avatar
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    KYB called Kill Your Back for a reason. I didn't like them on my 82 GT with B lowering springs and kyb Gas A Just struts and shocks.
    Mike

    Now stang-less.

    88 Cougar 5.0

  5. #5

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    ok maybe ill just hold off and save up for the 1979-04 MUSTANG EIBACH PRO-SYSTEM LOWERING SPRING, SHOCK & STRUT KIT. Has anyone had good luck with the Eibach kits?

  6. #6

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    I would swap the front brakes and spindles first. Then you can make a better decision later about which dampers and springs to use.

    https://www.maximummotorsports.com/t...8_spindle.aspx

    You can reuse your current struts with 1/8" shims between them and the spindle ears. This swap gives you better braking and opens up an entire world of strut options.
    Jack Hidley
    Maximum Motorsports Tech Support

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Hidley View Post
    I would swap the front brakes and spindles first. Then you can make a better decision later about which dampers and springs to use.

    https://www.maximummotorsports.com/t...8_spindle.aspx

    You can reuse your current struts with 1/8" shims between them and the spindle ears. This swap gives you better braking and opens up an entire world of strut options.
    Are the spindles and brake calipers/rotors from Thunderbird Turbo Coupes (1987-1988 ) the same as the 1987-1993 Mustang V8s? I have access to a 87-88 junked Turbo Coupe and want to retrieve as many parts as needed for upgrades to my new daily driver (an unmolested and clean 1978 Zephyr Z7 w/302, 56K original miles). Wheels (10 hole factory rims), brake and suspension upgrades are my only planned mods.
    Thanks, Raul
    Last edited by chivaceae; 02-07-2020 at 06:27 AM.

  8. #8

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    Yes.

    Let me know which of the Thunderbird brake hoses fits on the Zephyr and which does not. I suspect that the left hose will fit and the right hose will not fit. This will help me with my database of brake line fittings for Fox chassis cars.
    Jack Hidley
    Maximum Motorsports Tech Support

  9. #9
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chivaceae View Post
    Are the spindles and brake calipers/rotors from Thunderbird Turbo Coupes (1987-1988 ) the same as the 1986-1993 Mustang V8s?
    In an effort to help prevent confusion for others that read these posts later, the 79-86 Mustang/Capri and the 87-93 4 cyl Mustang spindles are one style. The 1987-93 V8 spindles are a different style. Good Luck with your project.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  10. #10

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    Thank you Jack and Trey for the information and tips here (and thru this Forum). I'll share what I find out on my little project updating/upgrading the brakes and suspension on the 1978 Z7.
    Next week I'll see about ID'ing all the part that I could source from the 87-88 Thunderbird Turbo coupe. I'll see about "rescuing" the front brakes, lower control arms, swaybars (if dimensionally similar to the Zephyr), the rear end (which I understand is wider than Fairmont/Zephyrs/Mustangs) and the wheels (16" snowflakes. which I also know have a different offset). I do know the passenger seat is in great shape, but the driver seat will need re-upholstering. I'll share information and pics as I source these parts (at a friends junkyard, buried in weeds-vegetation).
    Raul

  11. #11

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    Here is a pic of my daily driver project 1978 Z7:
    Name:  1978-Z7.jpg
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  12. #12

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    The front swaybar should be 42.75" from eyelet center to eyelet center. This is 1.125" wider than a Fox Mustang front swaybar. Please check this dimension on the Thunderbird swaybar.

    The axle housing is the same width as every other Fox housing. The axles in it are longer. These can be swapped out and the brakes modified to make things work.

    If you use the Thunderbird FCAs you will be limited to narrow front wheels and tires.
    Jack Hidley
    Maximum Motorsports Tech Support

  13. #13

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Hidley View Post
    The front swaybar should be 42.75" from eyelet center to eyelet center. This is 1.125" wider than a Fox Mustang front swaybar.
    To use the Fox swaybar, can the lower arms be re-drilled or does that weaken the arm?
    84 Cougar, 90 HO with 700DP, Edelbrock RPM intake, 1.7 RRs, shorty's and SS exh, T-5, KC clutch, Hurst pro billet, line loc, 8.8, 4.10s, suspension mods....blah, blah,blah.

    71 Comet, 289, Liberty TL, 9", 6.00s, 11.9x @ 112.... blah, blah, blah.

  14. #14

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    You'd be moving a hole which is about 0.625" in diameter, over 0.625". Good luck with that

    If you put the FCA up on a mill, you could do this, but I'd weld in a disc to fill in the old hole.

    You can try installing the swaybar on your car and see just how bad the endlink alignment is. You are also going to need to check the right angle length of the swaybar arm so that you can see how it lines up in the fore/aft direction also. I do not have data on this swaybar's right angle arm length.
    Jack Hidley
    Maximum Motorsports Tech Support

  15. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Hidley View Post
    You'd be moving a hole which is about 0.625" in diameter, over 0.625". Good luck with that

    If you put the FCA up on a mill, you could do this, but I'd weld in a disc to fill in the old hole.

    You can try installing the swaybar on your car and see just how bad the endlink alignment is. You are also going to need to check the right angle length of the swaybar arm so that you can see how it lines up in the fore/aft direction also. I do not have data on this swaybar's right angle arm length.
    Thanks Jack
    84 Cougar, 90 HO with 700DP, Edelbrock RPM intake, 1.7 RRs, shorty's and SS exh, T-5, KC clutch, Hurst pro billet, line loc, 8.8, 4.10s, suspension mods....blah, blah,blah.

    71 Comet, 289, Liberty TL, 9", 6.00s, 11.9x @ 112.... blah, blah, blah.

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