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  1. #1

    Default 84 foxbody project

    I bought a decent foxbody for my first project car to learn about cars and start a nice father and son project with my father. I have havenít had much time to work on it as I have to juggle school, football, and work constantly. I will post as I keep working on it.
    I am starting with the engine. This is going to be a learning process for me and I am very excited, so sorry if I have dumb questions or donít use correct terminology. Feel free to give me advice along the way, anything is appreciated!





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    Last edited by lukerbsn; 10-20-2019 at 07:29 PM.

  2. #2

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    Just recently got the engine out and started tearing into it



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  3. #3

    Default 84 foxbody project

    It didnít have oil pressure, and we didnít know much about the engine so when we took it apart we were surprised it was pretty clean. It is bored .040 over and it appears rebuilt. That was a nice surprise.

    However the not so nice surprise was when we found the oil pump drive from the distributor...



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    Last edited by lukerbsn; 10-20-2019 at 07:30 PM.

  4. #4

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    Looks like a good starting point for a project. It’s good you & your dad are in it together. What are your plans for it? Good luck and keep us posted. Lots of good info to be found here.

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by ISTLCRUZ View Post
    Looks like a good starting point for a project. Itís good you & your dad are in it together. What are your plans for it? Good luck and keep us posted. Lots of good info to be found here.
    Thanks, I plan on making it a nice car to cruise around in when it is nice out. Nothing too crazy, I want to repaint the whole thing after doing body work and make it look nice. Not sure if a ďrebuildĒ is the correct term, but overall I want to fix it up and almost daily it when it is nice weather.


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  6. #6

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    At least you plan on driving it while you do repairs & mods. It’s always good to get it reliable (starting-running & stopping properly) Then you can at least enjoy it as you work on it. A friend of mine in high school ( many years ago) had one just like yours. Again good luck with it.

  7. #7
    FEP Power Member Puter's Avatar
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    I actually broke one of those driveshafts in my 84 when I missed second gear once while out on a cruise. Get an upgraded one.

    Since I was 60 miles away from home (and 5.0 engines are a dime a dozen), I decided to drive it home without oil pressure. That next weekend I dropped the pan as much as I could with the engine still in it, replaced the driveshaft and oil pump, changed the oil and filter. Drove it for another 50K or so miles before I replaced the engine. :-)

    I do the same with my 84. I did a complete repaint and now drive it when it's nice. It'll be fun to watch you with yours.
    84 GT
    85 GT convertible

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by Puter View Post
    I actually broke one of those driveshafts in my 84 when I missed second gear once while out on a cruise. Get an upgraded one.

    Since I was 60 miles away from home (and 5.0 engines are a dime a dozen), I decided to drive it home without oil pressure. That next weekend I dropped the pan as much as I could with the engine still in it, replaced the driveshaft and oil pump, changed the oil and filter. Drove it for another 50K or so miles before I replaced the engine. :-)

    I do the same with my 84. I did a complete repaint and now drive it when it's nice. It'll be fun to watch you with yours.
    Funny that you mention an upgraded shaft, my father suggested getting a nice ARP shaft so I donít have to stress about it falling out as easily again. Lol


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  9. #9

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    The Victor Jr intake is a bit much for a basically stock engine. Single plane intakes on street cars only works well if you have multi port fuel injection. I would recommend getting a nice dual plane intake for a street car or build this engine up a bit to utilize the Victor. Head work/cam/roller rockers etc. BUT upgrade the BRAKES...chassis and suspension before adding power. Good luck with the project, fun cars to learn about and work on and only going up in value.

  10. #10

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    And a word of caution. Don't try to do too much, too fast. Too many irons in the fire, as it were. This being your first project, don't tear apart too much at a time. It's easy to get fired up and go nuts. Not trying to discourage or anything, just be careful. Looks like a good find.
    84 Capri RS Turbo
    Vinemont, AL (formerly El Mirage, AZ)
    USAF 1986-2007 (Ret)

  11. #11

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    Finally got a day to work on the engine. Got it down to the bare block.



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  12. #12

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    Spent hours sorting through wires, and carefully disconnecting this cluster of a wiring harness. It is almost out, I just have to figure out how to get it out of the firewall.

    It looks like it will be a huge pain though, it is hacked in dozens of spots and has different wires connected. Im wondering if I should even bother with trying to sort it out, or if I should just buy a whole new harness? Does anyone know where I can purchase a complete one for the engine bay?


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  13. #13
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Congrats on your new project! Also welcome to FEP. There are a lot of members here that can help you in all areas and aspects of rebuilding and repairing your Mustang.

    In regards to your wiring issue right now. I will warn you of a couple of things. First the 1984 model year vehicles had issues with the wiring. The insulation on the wires was poor and over time would break and flake off. So you have that to deal with. The next issue is that there are really any direct replacements for most of the wiring on any of the Four Eyed Mustangs. Here is a link to the engine only harness for a 1984 5.0 https://www.foxresto.com/1984-Mustan...-p/4784001.htm As you can see its not a cheap part and as I stated before this is only the harness that is on the engine and connects to the engine bay/body harness that goes back into the firewall and to the fuse panel and steering column.

    I would recommend looking at repairing your existing harness if possible. Pulling the harness out for replacement will normally require the removal of the dash and disconnecting a bunch of other items. This can become overwhelming in no time and at that point the car is non driveable until wiring is repaired. You can try finding a good used 84 harness that would be a direct replacement, but that will have the same wire insulation issues as yours. The 1983 and 1985 wiring is similar, but again not EXACTLY the same. It can be made to work, but will require some time to sort everything out and make sure everything is reconnected properly. There are aftermarket wiring harness options such as Ron Francis Wire Works, Painless, and others, but they are not model year specific and will require additional work on your behalf to install. Again you will need to pull the dash to get to all the wiring behind it to swap out and connect. If you do go the aftermarket route I would recommend the Ron Francis kit over Painless and most others. I have used them many times and they are quality parts with good instructions.

    As many other posts have mentioned, I would recommend keeping the car as driveable as possible the majority of the time. That will allow you to stay interested in the project and enjoy the repairs and improvements as you go. Tearing one completely down and rebuilding is an awesome challenge, but can easily become overwhelming and turn into a multi year project that you lose interest in and never complete. Good Luck and let us know how we can help.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Ongoing RestoModification
    1984 SVO Awaiting Restoration
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Underway
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  14. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    Congrats on your new project! Also welcome to FEP. There are a lot of members here that can help you in all areas and aspects of rebuilding and repairing your Mustang.

    In regards to your wiring issue right now. I will warn you of a couple of things. First the 1984 model year vehicles had issues with the wiring. The insulation on the wires was poor and over time would break and flake off. So you have that to deal with. The next issue is that there are really any direct replacements for most of the wiring on any of the Four Eyed Mustangs. Here is a link to the engine only harness for a 1984 5.0 https://www.foxresto.com/1984-Mustan...-p/4784001.htm As you can see its not a cheap part and as I stated before this is only the harness that is on the engine and connects to the engine bay/body harness that goes back into the firewall and to the fuse panel and steering column.

    I would recommend looking at repairing your existing harness if possible. Pulling the harness out for replacement will normally require the removal of the dash and disconnecting a bunch of other items. This can become overwhelming in no time and at that point the car is non driveable until wiring is repaired. You can try finding a good used 84 harness that would be a direct replacement, but that will have the same wire insulation issues as yours. The 1983 and 1985 wiring is similar, but again not EXACTLY the same. It can be made to work, but will require some time to sort everything out and make sure everything is reconnected properly. There are aftermarket wiring harness options such as Ron Francis Wire Works, Painless, and others, but they are not model year specific and will require additional work on your behalf to install. Again you will need to pull the dash to get to all the wiring behind it to swap out and connect. If you do go the aftermarket route I would recommend the Ron Francis kit over Painless and most others. I have used them many times and they are quality parts with good instructions.

    As many other posts have mentioned, I would recommend keeping the car as driveable as possible the majority of the time. That will allow you to stay interested in the project and enjoy the repairs and improvements as you go. Tearing one completely down and rebuilding is an awesome challenge, but can easily become overwhelming and turn into a multi year project that you lose interest in and never complete. Good Luck and let us know how we can help.
    Thank you for the help, so I take it the harness on the inside also has those insulation issues too? What can that lead to? I would assume maybe possible fires? Or just simple wire failure? What can I do to try and fix those issues?


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  15. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by lukerbsn View Post
    Thank you for the help, so I take it the harness on the inside also has those insulation issues too? What can that lead to? I would assume maybe possible fires? Or just simple wire failure? What can I do to try and fix those issues?
    I have an 84 Capri RS Turbo, and my engine harness is toast. All dry and crumbly. The interior harness doesn't seem to have the same issues. My dash harness is hacked and unwrapped due to a variety of people/events, but it isn't crumbling. The rest appears to be in decent shape, but that is my car, others might have the problems. A thorough inspection is needed. I acquired another pristine dash harness and engine harness to replace them. Members here have a treasure trove of stuff put away, so ask if something is needed.
    84 Capri RS Turbo
    Vinemont, AL (formerly El Mirage, AZ)
    USAF 1986-2007 (Ret)

  16. #16
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lukerbsn View Post
    Thank you for the help, so I take it the harness on the inside also has those insulation issues too? What can that lead to? I would assume maybe possible fires? Or just simple wire failure? What can I do to try and fix those issues?


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    The post above hit on most of your question. The issue with the 84 wiring seems to be the insulation does handle heat and the exterior elements well. As the previous post stated, most of the interior wiring seems to be hold up fine, but the engine bay with the grease, oil, heat, etc. the insulation gets brittle and flakes off which can cause intermittent electrical issues and obviously can lead to shorting out and possible fire hazards.

    As stated before, you can consider posting a WTB in the classifieds for wiring, but just understand that if the harness is from a high mileage car or one that has been stored outside for most of its life, the wiring may not be much better than your existing wiring. Its possible someone parted out a car many years ago and stored the harness and that would be your best option if available. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Ongoing RestoModification
    1984 SVO Awaiting Restoration
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Underway
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  17. #17

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    Well, I started cleaning the engine bay a bit and getting it ready for touch up spray paint on surface rust when I came across this little surprise...

    Im thinking I have to cut out that section of the car and weld in a plate? Since im new to all this I am not sure if that will be fine to do.


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  18. #18

    Default

    Well, I started cleaning the engine bay a bit and getting it ready for touch up spray paint on surface rust when I came across this little surprise...

    Im thinking I have to cut out that section of the car and weld in a plate? Since im new to all this I am not sure if that will be fine to do.


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  19. #19

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    Time to start going at this monstrosity, just going to sort out wires, clean them up, and replace ones that are exposed.


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  20. #20
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lukerbsn View Post
    Well, I started cleaning the engine bay a bit and getting it ready for touch up spray paint on surface rust when I came across this little surprise...

    Im thinking I have to cut out that section of the car and weld in a plate? Since im new to all this I am not sure if that will be fine to do.


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    You are going to want to make sure you get all of the rust removed before moving forward. You may be able to section the front frame rail, but it definitely appears you have some rust further forward around the sway bar bracket etc. Once you get a bit larger opening, I would recommend a good mirror or even one of the camera probes if available to verify how much rust is inside the whole frame rail. Not a fun or quick replacement, but depending on the amount of rust and damage it may be better to replace the whole rail rather than patch work. LMR does offer the frame rail replacement kits so that at least makes things a bit easier than years ago. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Ongoing RestoModification
    1984 SVO Awaiting Restoration
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Underway
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  21. #21

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    Yikes!
    Common but doable.
    1984 Mustang LX
    302, Holley 4bbl 600 vac sec
    B&M C4 R servo
    Shorty Headers
    MSD Box and Coil
    Scorpion Roller Rockers 1.6
    Crower Cam 472 112 seperation
    Chetah Shifter
    Performer RPM Intake
    Carter Electronic Fuel Pump
    Accel Eletronic Dizzy

  22. #22

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    My father and I decided to just weld on a metal plate for now. In the future I would like to buy a new radiator support and new frame rails. After I welded the plate in, I touched up the surface rust areas with just some black spray paint.



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  23. #23

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    I did pretty much the same with wiring on my 85. I had a bit more, because I wanted to remove all the 1985 Only TSAD wiring harness, but remove all the fusible links and put in a fuse box, while doing a tuck. I am pretty much done. I did this S L O W L Y over the course of about 3 years...mainly laziness, and it was a bit of a pain, but it looks good.

    If you have any questions, ask. I may have written down the answer some where, or look thru my posts and pics and remember.

    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...lley-EFI/page3
    1985 GT, Sunroof, 5 Lug, Rear Discs, 01 Graphite Bullets, 88 forged piston shortblock, 2.02/1.60 Alum heads, Weiand Stealth, Holley C950 TBI, BBK Long tubes

  24. #24
    FEP Super Member NAVYCAT's Avatar
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    Trust me...... dont remove the harness, just strip off the plastic loom covers and clean all the wires fix any terminals. then when the motor is back in then re tape all the wires or even tuck them away if you want to go crazy........
    2017 Mustang ECO BOOST (DD) 1986 Capri 5.0 Silver/Red
    1969 Falcon XW GTHO coupe (SOLD) went to australia
    Past 4 eyes-
    4th. 1981 Capri "White" Black Magic I6
    3rd. 1984 Capri RS V8 Black/grey
    2nd. 1984 Capri RS V8 White/red
    1st. 1984 SVO Grey/grey (traded it for a worn out 1970 BOSS 302)
    Both '84 Capri's vin# were 10 away from each other
    U.S. NAVY 1980-2009

  25. #25

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    I have started assembling the engine back together and it started smoothly but then as I was cleaning the timing chain cover, I noticed loads of silicone, and epoxy covering 3 holes that do not seem to be used for the water pump. Does anyone know why these holes are there? (I will have pics below circling each hole). Do I just plug them with something? Or should I find a water pump, or timing chain cover that doesnít have the holes?







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