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  1. #1

    Default Front coil spring isolators?

    Wasn’t sure where to post this. About 3 years ago I installed SN95 shocks on my 87 Tbird 5.0. While the ride is firm it isn’t harsh. I noticed recently I have slight rubbing during breaking now. I got under the car and found the lower isolators have already deteriorated and are falling out in pieces. These were new BBK pieces changed at the time of springs. What would cause them to break down so quickly? Perhaps the shocks are inadequate? Any ideas or suggestions? I have already ordered new isolators.
    Thanks

  2. #2

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    Are you talking about the BBK poly isolators, or some rubber replacements?
    Also, which ones? The upper or lower isolators?
    Pictures would help.

    Imho, parts of the lower isolators are going to wear quickly no matter what. Add in that the poly isolators are thicker than the stock rubber, and don't conform as much, and you have a great case for wear.

    Imho, the upper isolators should last past your lifetime, your kid's lifetimes, their kid's lifetimes...


    Good Luck!

  3. #3

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    Yes they are the BBK poly units. It’s the lower ones on the front. Both sides have deteriorated to the point that I believe the spring is resting in the A-arm metal to metal? I could be wrong though . Should I have gone with rubber replacements?

  4. #4

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    I may have found part of my problem. Correct me if I’m wrong but shouldn’t the round “disc-shaped” isolator be on the upper part of the coil spring? Mine has that part in the A-arm “coil pocket “? I had these installed at a local shop and aligned at the same time. I think the lower part should be the isolator that slides around the coil?? Thanks again guys.

  5. #5
    1985 GT owned since new

  6. #6
    FEP Power Member mcb82gt's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ISTLCRUZ View Post
    I may have found part of my problem. Correct me if I’m wrong but shouldn’t the round “disc-shaped” isolator be on the upper part of the coil spring? Mine has that part in the A-arm “coil pocket “? I had these installed at a local shop and aligned at the same time. I think the lower part should be the isolator that slides around the coil?? Thanks again guys.
    That is backwards. You are correct, lower one slides around the coil. Upper one, coil sets in.

    Their mistake, they "should" make it right, for you.
    Last edited by mcb82gt; 10-21-2019 at 01:41 PM.
    Mike

    Now stang-less.

    88 Cougar 5.0

  7. #7

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    As others have said, the shop put then isolators on wrong.
    Fwiw, I used rubber isolators for the bottom of the spring, because the poly "tube" isolators were "too thick", and they didn't want to sit inside the lower control arm pocket. The poly lower isolators may have settled in with time. But, I didn't want to bother risking it. So, I used new rubber isolators for the bottom.

    Note that I also used the Steeda ~1/4" spacer on top of the Mach1 spring, to get ~0.4" back from the drop of my Mach1 springs.
    With an '86, there's not much room under the 100% stock (and staying that way ) fenders.


    More pictures at
    http://veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/tmp/OTC-spring-tool/






    You can see the bottom rubber isolator that I used, and the alignment hole in the lower control arm.












    Good Luck!
    Last edited by stangPlus2Birds; 10-22-2019 at 12:57 AM.

  8. #8
    FEP Power Member mcb82gt's Avatar
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    Default

    Does that put metal to metal up in the fender?
    Mike

    Now stang-less.

    88 Cougar 5.0

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by mcb82gt View Post
    Does that put metal to metal up in the fender?
    I was thinking the same when I saw it also.

  10. #10

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mcb82gt View Post
    Does that put metal to metal up in the fender?
    Yes and no.
    The top of the spring sits in the very heavy and sturdy, built to last a billion years, OEM K-frame. The spacer sits against the K-Frame.
    I live in New England, *I* know very well about rust, and electrolysis.
    People in non-snow States often "roll their eyes" when I tell them that "replacing a caliper" could go into the thousands because of rust. It could result in every caliper/brake-cylinder, brake line, and brake hose being replaced.
    I learned to work on cars in my best friend's dad's service station and repair. For various reasons, I've known a number of shop owners and ASE certified mechanics.

    While I was still in school, a friend bought a used ?Taurus?. I said "no problem" when they asked me if I could help them with the brakes. I don't know the history of the car. But, the rear two caliper pistons were rusted in place forever. The brake line connections were also in very bad shape. So, I didn't touch the brakes, and told my friend the bad news.
    Iirc, it was over $1,000 (way back then) for 4 calipers, new brake pads, new rotors, new brake hoses, and new brake lines.

    Fwiw, on my Old's Achieva, it's gone through two complete sets of brake lines. The last ones, I coated with POR-15, and it's been doing a decent job. Next time, I'll go "copper" (actually "NiCopp Nickel Copper" ).

    So, *I* take rust concerns super seriously.

    After saying the above, I didn't worry at all, and still don't, about rust/corrosion with the spacer and the K-frame.
    Water/etc rarely gets up there. And, when it does, it drips right back down.
    Plus, with the force of the spring pushing the spacer against the K-Frame, there's never any gap there for water/etc to get in.
    Last edited by stangPlus2Birds; 10-24-2019 at 12:20 AM.

  11. #11

    Default

    Btw, if you look at the picture below, you can see how the top of the spring is not perfectly flat.
    So, if the spacer is put between the spring and the isolator, the spring could put an uneven force on the spacer, making it sit at an angle in the isolator.

    The spacer is wider than the spring. The way that I have it, the spacer is right over the spring. That's why I have 4 zip ties, tightly holding the spacer, isolator, and spring.

    I used the OTC 7045B spring compressor tool, and I installed the lower control arm, spring, isolator, and spacer as a unit.
    There was no/very-little lateral force on the top of the isolator. Plus, IIRC, I have the older K-frame, that has the 4 "petals" sticking down. So, once the top of the spring gets put in the K-Frame, it's not moving.





    Picture below stolen from RED 78':
    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...=1#post1484380


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