I bought this, as the 3rd owner, and the last owner said it’s never seen snow. I kind of believed him once I looked at the underside. But a 35 year old car isn’t going to be perfect
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I bought this, as the 3rd owner, and the last owner said it’s never seen snow. I kind of believed him once I looked at the underside. But a 35 year old car isn’t going to be perfect
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It’s just that area behind the passenger seat, otherwise the rest of the floor looks good.
Should I do a patch panel, or just replace the entire side with the LMR panel? I am leaning replacing the whole side.
https://lmr.com/item/LRS-11135A/79-9...g-Rh-Floor-Pan
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Typical leaking T-Top rust AFAIK. Floor pans quickly turn into a bit of a job. Also unless you brace things well before you cut into her (say with subframe connectors) things end up moving around and making real mess of the car.
Decide based upon how deep and involved you want to get and what is correct for the structure of the car.
IMO, original structure if healthy is always better than replacement because its less work and avoids risk of stuff moving around.
I would probably get the whole side but if its reasonably possible section out the area in the floor where the metal is healthy and use it as a pattern for the repair panel then marry the two panels up in the car.
If you're good with a wire welder and you spot things slowly and carefully you should be able to blind seam it and body work it to the point it becomes very hard to ever tell the work was done.
Personally I'd probably take an easier approach. If I can find a way to do it...... I'd probably reach for my metal flanger. (often used when replacing 1/4 panels to create the bend for the new panel to set into. You can use weld-through primer and create several places to spot weld the panels together. Welded up properly and it will be stronger than the floor was originally. Do apply a healthy dose of sealer if you go that route.
If the only area with rust is what I can see in the photo, then I would repair that area and leave the rest of the floor pan intact.
Just an FYI all the replacement floor pans are 87-93 style. Not a huge deal, but Ford did make changes from the 79-86 cars, so they are not an exact match. Essentially there are more stamped ribs and shape to the floor pans that doesn't match up perfectly when repairing the 79-86 cars. If replacing the entire floor pan, no big deal and generally no one will see or car, just making you aware of it.
You can look using one of the floor pan patches for the passenger side and just cut it down to replace your rotten section. Again just understand that you will probably have some ribs/shape that doesn't match up to the remaining sheet metal and you will have to fab some fill in metal for those areas. The other option if you have access to it would be a donor piece from a similar year model Mustang/Capri. If done right those repairs can be almost seamless. Good Luck!
Trey
"I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"
"I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."
Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
Current Mustangs:
1969 Mach 1
1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently
Current Capris:
1981 Capri Roller
1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts
I also am in the same boat as you. I have two full pans to repair my T Roof Capri. Full driver side and partial passenger. My car also was not winter driven.
But the older couple did not store it properly. My build will commence in November. In the mean time i have been aquiring parts.
Good luck!
well said Wraithracing. after market never seems to be as good as original it seems. Looking to fix same issues soon I hope with my 84.5 Gt350 anny. Buyin parts and biding my time lol.
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