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  1. #1

    Default A Pillar rust hole repair

    Hello, I tried to search but had little luck finding what I was looking for.

    Any suggestions how to repair this?
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    Last edited by rpmowner; 09-24-2019 at 12:51 PM.

  2. #2
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Have re repaired the ds 'A' pillar several times with bondo, primer, paint.. Thought that would be enough. Nope.
    Several sections have surface rust midway, hole at top seam. The midsections are holding fine, roof/pillar no.
    Bondo lasts there for a bit, but rust comes back.
    Latest try, used JB steel epoxy few months ago. Holding up fine.
    Now to sand, prep, and paint that spot, then see what happens over time.
    The pass side was minor like in the pic, so that was sand rust off, prep, paint. Is ok so far after several years.

    Used several layers of tape on the moldings and paper to protect surrounding areas.
    A rotary tool is handy to work on the little narrow area.
    Lifting or removing the w/s moldings are an option.

    Same deal on other small areas like lip of rear wheel wells, door bottoms, hatch, wheel wells.
    Door bottoms and hatch seams have held up well redoing the seam sealer. Holes are another story.
    Fiberglass or epoxy are waterproof, bondo is not. Going with those this time. New steel as needed.
    Gonna try roof cement on small spots in wheel wells. Does not have to be pretty.
    Prob fiberglass with reinforcement or metal on the inside car side.

  3. #3

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    I did that job, quite a project. I used a donor that I cut from the yard. I took a ton of pics.........Name:  IMG_0469.jpg
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    Whatever you do, do not cut right thru the a pillar. You just want to replace the top skin. Cutting thru it will severely weaken the pillar (as if they are not weak enough already)
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  4. #4
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    The main issue with rust in that area is due to the fact that the roof skin and the A pillar are joined there and the joint is leaded over by the factory. Holds up fairly well over time, but once you have rust starting, you have to generally remove the lead so that you can gain access to the rust that is often underneath and will return if you just go over the top of the lead.

    A propane torch, protective gear, and some patience will remove the lead. Use protection and dispose of the lead appropriately. Then see what rust lurks underneath. As noted use a cut off wheel, but only carefully cut the top layer of metal. Determine what has to be removed to prevent the rust from coming back. Once that is done, make sure you coat all bare metal with a good product such as a 2K urethane primer/sealer. Any residual rust that can't be removed should be treated with POR15 or Eastwood Rust Encapsulator. Weld back sheet metal as needed, then do your final finish work with some body filler, etc. Primer and Paint as needed, that should take care of the repair for many years to come. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
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  5. #5
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Those look like real good fixes, but ties up the car. Pretty much need a garage.
    Removing windshield, reinstall. May need to replace it if damaged when removing.
    I'd have to leave it outside with the windshield removed. Not an option here.
    Windshield left in rules out any repair with tools that generate high heat.

  6. #6
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gr79 View Post
    Those look like real good fixes, but ties up the car. Pretty much need a garage.
    Removing windshield, reinstall. May need to replace it if damaged when removing.
    I'd have to leave it outside with the windshield removed. Not an option here.
    Windshield left in rules out any repair with tools that generate high heat.
    I understand your points. With that said, a Propane torch used properly will not damage the windshield. You can easily shield the windshield with heat absorbing materials such as a weld blanket or even a small piece of aluminum. A cut off wheel again shouldn't generate enough heat to damage the windshield either. A weld blanket, thick cardboard, plywood, etc can be used to protect the windshield from metal debris, sparks, etc.

    So these repairs can be made outside without removing the windshield if needed. Yes it may add some extra steps and take extra caution to not damage the windshield, but it can be done. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  7. #7

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    Trey is right.

    Yours is not at bad as mine was. As he instructed just have to make sure you treat any rust underneath. In my case it was bad enough that I searched for a donor and took the whole a pillar and a portion of the roof. Then fabbed what I needed to my pillar and roof.

    Your does not look that involved. Unless the t-tops present a problem. Never worked with those.

    Bill

  8. #8
    FEP Super Member Bryan Knebworth's Avatar
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    rpmowner; also be sure to install a set of SFCs to prevent body flex. Body flex is believed to create the initial fractures/rust. Go through Mustang Masters for the SFCs. Be sure to buy the weld-in ones too, and not the bolt-in.

  9. #9
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    I absolutely agree with a set of full length Sub Frame Connectors as the first order of business for any Fox body. This is even more true for T-top cars. Personally I only install Maximum Motorsports SFC as they are the best fitting and best bang for the buck IMHO. The only other brand I would consider besides MM would be Stifflers. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  10. #10
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    I appreciate the post about small repairs can be done in that area with ws in place.
    No so much with grinding sparks pitting glass as with high heat so close by.
    For now, Bondo Glass seems to have taken out the little rust outs.
    Hard to tell what it looks like until primed and painted.

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