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  1. #1

    Default Saving an 83 Mustang GT with a 94 F150 5.0... need help from the experts!

    I recently purchased a low mileage (54k) 1983 T5 mustang GT which had been hot rodded to the point that the engine was ruined (along with the rear tires). The Previous owner pulled the engine to find multiple things ruined including the cam and crank. The car sat without an engine for two years before he decided to sell it. I purchased the car to rescue it after the original engine had been scrapped, ( I have the heads only) and I知 looking to make a driver out of the car. I ran across a 1994 F150 with a good running 302. The firing order on the 1994 F150 shows that it is a HO engine. The F150 has an automatic transmission.

    Next weekend I plan to remove the motor from the F150 and install it in the mustang. I don稚 have the fly wheel or clutch assembly from the mustang so I know we are buying that.

    Can I purchase a fly wheel for an 86 mustang to get the bigger 10.5 clutch configuration and make no other modifications to the starter, T5, etc?

    I believe I need to run a distributor from in 1985 Mustang GT?? I do have the distributor from the 83 Mustang GT but it痴 got the wrong gear right? Are the gears easy to change?

    The previous owner had installed an aftermarket intake on the 1983 302, I知 expecting that it will bolt right onto the 1994 302 to replace the EFI. Any issues with that assumption?

    I also have the original oil pan from the 302 in the 1983 Mustang and I知 expecting It to bolt right onto 1994 302 to replace the truck oil pan. Any issues with that assumption?

    Thanks for your prompt reply, I知 planning to order parts today so they値l be here by next weekend to pull the engine from the truck and set it in the Mustang.

  2. #2
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Congrats on the new to you 1983 GT!

    The 10.5 50oz Flywheel will fit just fine and work with the existing T5. I personally recommend the later model gear reduction starter if you need a new starter, but otherwise you can use the original.

    You will need to swap the intake to fit the F150 engine into the Mustang anyway, at that time you can verify if it is equipped with a roller camshaft or not. If it does have a roller camshaft (likely) then you will need the 1985 Mustang 5.0 distributor with the steel gear, or you will at least need to swap a steel gear onto your existing distributor. Otherwise a brass gear can be used, but they do wear and generally have to be replaced at specific intervals. The swap is fairly straightforward. There is a roll pin that holds the gear onto the shaft, just drive it out, swap the gears and reinstall.

    The aftermarket intake and the oil pan from the other 302 will bolt up to the F150 engine without issue. If the old oil pan doesn't have the metal support braces under the bolts and the F150 engine does, I would recommend swapping the braces and bolts to the Mustang oil pan. I also recommend the solid one piece oil pan seal rather than the multi piece units. The Felpro version works well for me. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Ongoing RestoModification
    1984 SVO Awaiting Restoration
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Underway
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    Congrats on the new to you 1983 GT!

    The 10.5 50oz Flywheel will fit just fine and work with the existing T5. I personally recommend the later model gear reduction starter if you need a new starter, but otherwise you can use the original.

    You will need to swap the intake to fit the F150 engine into the Mustang anyway, at that time you can verify if it is equipped with a roller camshaft or not. If it does have a roller camshaft (likely) then you will need the 1985 Mustang 5.0 distributor with the steel gear, or you will at least need to swap a steel gear onto your existing distributor. Otherwise a brass gear can be used, but they do wear and generally have to be replaced at specific intervals. The swap is fairly straightforward. There is a roll pin that holds the gear onto the shaft, just drive it out, swap the gears and reinstall.

    The aftermarket intake and the oil pan from the other 302 will bolt up to the F150 engine without issue. If the old oil pan doesn't have the metal support braces under the bolts and the F150 engine does, I would recommend swapping the braces and bolts to the Mustang oil pan. I also recommend the solid one piece oil pan seal rather than the multi piece units. The Felpro version works well for me. Good Luck!
    I have all the accessories from the 83 including the water pump but do not have the timing cover. Of course the 94 is all complete (I drove the truck home yesterday)... Do I need to swap the water pump or timing cover for any reason? I did notice that both the 83 Mustang and 94 F150 have water pumps which do not have ribs (ie it's the backside of the belt which turns it) but I recall some older years turn one way and some newer years turn another... Just don't know about this combo.

  4. #4

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    One other question... Can I take the gear off the 94 distributor and put it on the 83 distributor without buying anything?

  5. #5

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    if the diameters are the same, you should. I guess I am confused though... why not just drop the unadulterated truck motor straight into the mustang (obviously oil pan swap is necessary)?
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers
    GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721 intake
    K&N filter in stock dual snorkel
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons
    catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals
    Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates and strut tower brace, 3.73 rear.
    Firehawk A/S 225/55/16 on LMR TRX r390 wheels (street)
    Federal 595 rs-rr 225/45/15 on 10 holes (race)
    Everything else stock and fully functional.

  6. #6
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    The F150 timing cover can be used in the Mustang if you don't need a mechanical fuel pump. Otherwise you need an earlier timing cover in order to run the fuel pump. You will also need the correct fuel pump eccentric on the camshaft.

    Serpentine belt 5.0 engines run the water pump in reverse. V belt 5.0 engines drive the pump in standard rotation. Everything should work fine between the F150 and Mustang parts.

    First and foremost!!! Is the F150 engine a roller camshaft equipped engine. If so, then YES you should be able to swap the gear from the F150 distributor to the Mustang distributor. Double check the overall length and bore diameter there can be some slight difference thru the years. Not a big deal, just an FYI.

    The F150 engine can be dropped into the Mustang, but as noted the oil pan, front drive accessories, exhaust, and the intake are different than a Mustang. Also as an EFI engine it doesn't have a mechanical fuel pump so that has to be addressed.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Ongoing RestoModification
    1984 SVO Awaiting Restoration
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Underway
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  7. #7

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    I think you will find the distributor gear off the 94 TFI distributor will be the 0.531" diameter and not fit the duraspark (early 80's) style distributor 0.467" shaft.

    I thought I could simply steal a gear off an 88 with roller cam for my 80 (with a 95 roller cam conversion) but ran into this problem. Ended up just buying an 85 mustang duraspark type distributor with a steel gear.

  8. #8

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    Thank you all for the wisdom! Such good advice was exactly what I was looking for. I ordered the fly wheel and clutch kit and will pull the motor this weekend with my son. I do know the truck is an H.O. because of the firing order, which I think ensures it’s a roller motor but not positive.

    The whole fuel pump issue is so helpful to consider here and now. I think I will probably go with an in-line electric pump however I really prefer the mechanical.

    many thanks!

  9. #9

    Default

    I don't think it was mentioned above, or whether you also have the '83 Mustang one as well as it's oil pan, but the oil pump pickup tubes between the truck/Fox oil pans are different too...

    As a '94 302, it'll be a roller block, probably with hydraulic roller camshaft and lifters in it. Personally, I wouldn't leave the puny truck camshaft in it... at the very least sourcing a late '80's stock Mustang hydraulic roller camshaft, with all the same distributor considerations listed above (oil pump stem diameter, steel distributor drive gear, etc) needing investigation and doing, or going with a flat tappet camshaft and lifters and using a pre-'85 DuraSpark distributor as is...

    The truck oil dip stick (and) tubes are quite long/high, and prone to rusting/busting at exhaust bolt mounting and/or snapping off at the block entrance hole... you may need to source a Fox oil dip stick and tube... good used... or... don't expect to find 'em in stock (or even able to order... ran into this myself) at the dealer any more (I got quite the ridiculing treatment as well when mentioning it was for an '86 ( "oh, there's nothing worse than those" )... there's a funny hatred with some people for 4-eye Foxes out there...?)... the old Ford Motorsport chrome unit can still be found... I had to go that way for about $50...
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  10. #10

    Default

    if it is an HO you may have all of that stuff already (cam, dipstick tube, even the oil pan). Are you sure this thing just isn't ready to go in the way it is?
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers
    GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721 intake
    K&N filter in stock dual snorkel
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons
    catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals
    Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates and strut tower brace, 3.73 rear.
    Firehawk A/S 225/55/16 on LMR TRX r390 wheels (street)
    Federal 595 rs-rr 225/45/15 on 10 holes (race)
    Everything else stock and fully functional.

  11. #11

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    I was just thinking... you say it is in a truck and it has the H.O. firing order.... are you sure it isn't just a 351?
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers
    GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721 intake
    K&N filter in stock dual snorkel
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons
    catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals
    Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates and strut tower brace, 3.73 rear.
    Firehawk A/S 225/55/16 on LMR TRX r390 wheels (street)
    Federal 595 rs-rr 225/45/15 on 10 holes (race)
    Everything else stock and fully functional.

  12. #12
    FEP Senior Member liv2roc's Avatar
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    Cherryville n.c.
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    my engine is out of a 94 t bird. I changed the cam to a comp cam and bought a distributor from advanced auto for a 85 gt with the steel gear already installed for like $100. I tried to install a steel gear on my factory distributor but the gear was not drilled for the roll pin and I could not get it to line up with the stock shaft it was not drilled dead center from the factory. I changed the timing cover to my stock 84 because of the fuel pump hole and installed the stock fuel pump eccentric from the 84 engine. everything else like flywheel from my old engine bolted up.

  13. #13

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    We pulled the engine out of the F150 this weekend. It is most definitely an H0302. I do have the oil pan and pick up tube from the mustang which will go right on this block. I will probably end up running electric feel pump begrudgingly to avoid the timing cover swap since I don’t have one and speed to running is important.

    The truck motor came out with the exhaust manifolds on it but those will be removed for headers I got with the mustang. I’ll have to cross that dipstick issue when I get to it but thank you for the heads up.

    I did just discover however that I do not have a block plate for a T5.... now I’m on the hunt.

  14. #14

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    Do you know why an ho was in it? And by ho do you mean just the cam? maybe in 94 it was different but besides the injection system an ho for the longest time just meant a 351 firing order and maybe some heads depending on the year.
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers
    GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721 intake
    K&N filter in stock dual snorkel
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons
    catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals
    Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates and strut tower brace, 3.73 rear.
    Firehawk A/S 225/55/16 on LMR TRX r390 wheels (street)
    Federal 595 rs-rr 225/45/15 on 10 holes (race)
    Everything else stock and fully functional.

  15. #15
    FEP Senior Member liv2roc's Avatar
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    Cherryville n.c.
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    I got mine from ebay. heres a original one https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Mustan...UAAOSwm29dg63-

  16. #16

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    Block plate will be here Monday... counting down.

  17. #17

    Cool

    Quote Originally Posted by foot2floor View Post
    Block plate will be here Monday... counting down.
    Engine is in, waiting on an 85 HO distributor for the roller cam. Did have some excitement in the process of pushing it outside to paint the engine bay... The car has had working brakes until I needed them to stop me on the hill out side my garage door. They failed and I got a high speed backwards race down the hill through some woods. Thankfully I took notes from ToMater and didn't hit anything as it found the next rise.

    Blew a right front brake line and raised the priority of fixing the parking brakes all at once.

  18. #18

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    Well happy to report the brake lines are all fixed - but the engine did not run today as planned.

    Here's the facts and I'd welcome the input of folks to identify what could possibly be wrong.

    Engine: 94 F150 Roller 302 Motor
    Trans+Bell-housing: I'm told its the original 1983 5.0 Mustang GT T5 but I didn't know that was even an option until getting this car.
    Flywheel: NEW from Summit: LuK LFW112 Flywheel (157-tooth, Steel, External, 50 oz. Imbalance)
    Block Plate: NEW from LMR:
    https://lmr.com/item/LRS-7007R/musta...-plate-7995-50
    Starter: Original 1983 5.0 Mustang GT starter which I bench tested and the gear pops out and retracts well

    PROBLEM: The starter engages and the gear attempts to engage the flywheel but it instead hits the flywheel gear face and appears to be unable to mesh. You just get this nasty gggnrarning sound. I tried the truck starter (which is a factory mini starter) and had basically the same results.

    Odd Clues: The bell-housing lined up on the dowel pins fine and all bell housing bolts went in fine. When I attempted to put in the bolts that go through the block plate into the bellhousing (in the oil pan zone) the bolt holes are SLIGHTLY off! Can't start the bolts. Right now I'm thinking the block plate might have a manufacture defect but that just seems to weird.

    THOUGHTS? QUESTIONS?

  19. #19

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    I had the same problem in my 83 gt....car has a 93 block ran great for years clutch started slipping so I decided it was time to replace it .... I went with a 10.5 kit
    over there years I had to replace the starter noticed the block plate where the starter bolts up to was cut out and let the starter bolt right up to the bell housing ..Now when I put the new clutch in I decided to replace the block plate with a new one and thats when the problem started I tried 3 different starters all brand new and couldn't get it to stop grinding it drove me nuts for 2 weekends so I was thinking and said a hale mary pulled the starter didnt want to pull the trans again I got out the body saw dremmel small grinder what ever it took and cut the block plate off where it bolts to the bell housing put the starter back in said a prayer and it's been fine ever since

  20. #20

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    Good news for anyone who ends up with the same problem. I ended up loosening all of the bell housing bolts and removing the starter. And then took a hammer and beat on the block plate edge hanging out between the two, toward the passenger side of the car and down from the top. The block plate moved enough that when I re-installed the starter the alignment was good enough to allow the starter to engage!

    I finally was able to start the motor Sunday night. My son and I did a happy dance around the car.

    thanks to those that responded

  21. #21

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    Fuel system issues have slowed me down (that and traveling for work)... I've driven it less then 1 mile but it goes through the gears and runs ok... Gotta rebuild a Holley Carb. Anyone have a sense for the factory 83 4 BBL? Is it worth rebuilding or would you go to a different more traditional Holley?

  22. #22
    FEP Super Member bwguardian's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by foot2floor View Post
    Fuel system issues have slowed me down (that and traveling for work)... I've driven it less then 1 mile but it goes through the gears and runs ok... Gotta rebuild a Holley Carb. Anyone have a sense for the factory 83 4 BBL? Is it worth rebuilding or would you go to a different more traditional Holley?
    I would definitely keep and rebuild the original 4180 carburetor as it has annular primary boosters. There are a couple tricks you can do to it that are worth researching but good diaphragm for the accelerator pump, larger accelerator pump discharge nozzle, and maybe a slight increase in jetting...this would involve a different back plate for the secondary jets.
    HAD
    '82 GT monochromatic (red)...black cloth

    HAVE
    '85 GT vert two tone (white on charcoal)...white leather
    '00 F350 two tone (white on silver)...gray cloth
    '00 Excursion Limited two tone (white on tan)...tan leather...wifes ride
    '08 Taurus Limited ice blue...tan leather...daughter ride
    '08 Edge Limited white sand tri-coat metallic...tan leather...other daughters ride

  23. #23

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    Quote Originally Posted by bwguardian View Post
    I would definitely keep and rebuild the original 4180 carburetor as it has annular primary boosters. There are a couple tricks you can do to it that are worth researching but good diaphragm for the accelerator pump, larger accelerator pump discharge nozzle, and maybe a slight increase in jetting...this would involve a different back plate for the secondary jets.
    Unfortunately the secondary shaft is seized and after soaking it in gas for a week I think I will have to switch to an aftermarket Holley 4160 carb. Kinda a bummer but I'll leave it soaking for another week to be sure

  24. #24
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    Walking-Tall AKA Mike is the Holley carb expert here. He can give you all the info you need!

  25. #25
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by foot2floor View Post
    Unfortunately the secondary shaft is seized and after soaking it in gas for a week I think I will have to switch to an aftermarket Holley 4160 carb. Kinda a bummer but I'll leave it soaking for another week to be sure
    Gas is not the best option in this case. A good carb cleaning solution or possibly products just as Evapo Rust, Rust Release, etc may be better options. A mixture of 50% automatic transmission fluid and 50% Acetone is an excellent home made penetrating solution. HIGHLY FLAMMABLE, but inexpensive. I would seriously look at one of those options before giving up. Another product I have been using lately is FREE ALL from Oreilly Auto parts. Typical spray can penetrating lube, but I have had great success with it when others have failed. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Ongoing RestoModification
    1984 SVO Awaiting Restoration
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Underway
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

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