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  1. #1

    Default Rear Control Arms

    I need to change the rear control bushings on 79 hatch soon. I can buy these for about same price and after looking at parts cost and my labor. NPD has them listed at $130.00 an e-bay at $89.00 + free shipping
    Has anyone used the street bandit on NPD page #96.
    Thanks,
    ed

  2. #2
    FEP Power Member Broncojunkie's Avatar
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    These look like the ones American Muscle was selling. If so, there was a lot of complaints about the bushings falling apart shortly after install and welds breaking. You might go there and look at them and see what you think. These may be different. The reviews should still be out there. Even if they are the same thing, they may have fixed the issues by now, so I'm not going to down them without personal experience. I purchased 2 sets of them while on sale during the Christmas shopping season. I never used them. In fact, I gave one set away (maybe 2...I'll have to check). I never even opened the box after reading the reviews.
    79 Pace Car - 331, t5
    79 Pace Car- 302, 4 spd
    79 Cobra - working on 351w, t5
    82 Capri- working on 302, t5
    82gt - working on 408w, c4

  3. #3
    FEP Power Member Broncojunkie's Avatar
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    I should also add that I'm not saying anything bad about American Muscle. They didn't make them, I don't believe. It's just that they left the reviews up on their website even with all the negative responses. I actually commend them for honesty here.
    79 Pace Car - 331, t5
    79 Pace Car- 302, 4 spd
    79 Cobra - working on 351w, t5
    82 Capri- working on 302, t5
    82gt - working on 408w, c4

  4. #4

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    Junkie,
    Thanks for info...
    ed

  5. #5

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    It's my understanding that the problems people were having with the bushings on these control arms were being caused by tightening them down with the suspension unloaded instead of tightening them after the car was let down which caused them to bind and twist thus destroying the bushings, makes sense. Hope this helps.

    I was going to replace mine this year but I've decided to remove the originals (19000 miles) and blast and paint them instead this offseason. I don't pound on the car though it has had mods and the torque boxes are still in excellent shape and I thought the different arms may cause some NVH concerns because of the stiffer bushings.

  6. #6
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    The issue with all of these types of rear control arms has to do with the bushings and the tubular design of the control arms. Typical poly bushings in the upper control arms is a BAD idea no matter what the design! That plus the tubular design of the control arms does not allow the upper control arms to twist, stretch, and flex as needed for the Stock Quadra Bind Ford suspension. Then on top of that you add the simple poly bushings at both ends of the lower arms only makes the overall suspension binding WORSE! Please read the information here: https://www.maximummotorsports.com/t...susp_rlca.aspx

    Unless your car is drag strip only, adding these type of rear control arms to a street driven car will not improve the ride or the handling. These types of control arms are often the reason owners have torque box issues because of the additional binding these type of control arms add to the rear suspension. Bottom line is the only aftermarket rear control arms I will use are Maximum Motorsports. The only upper control arms I will use are the OEM FORD arms with OEM style rubber bushings at both ends. Save yourself time, trouble, headaches, and money and DON'T buy these types of control arms. Read the tech from Maximum Motorsports and you will fully understand why.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  7. #7

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    I bought ones that look like that from summit,
    They’ve been on my car for 10 years with no complaints.



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  8. #8

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    The issue with all of these types of rear control arms has to do with the bushings and the tubular design of the control arms. Typical poly bushings in the upper control arms is a BAD idea no matter what the design! That plus the tubular design of the control arms does not allow the upper control arms to twist, stretch, and flex as needed for the Stock Quadra Bind Ford suspension. Then on top of that you add the simple poly bushings at both ends of the lower arms only makes the overall suspension binding WORSE! Please read the information here: https://www.maximummotorsports.com/t...susp_rlca.aspx

    Unless your car is drag strip only, adding these type of rear control arms to a street driven car will not improve the ride or the handling. These types of control arms are often the reason owners have torque box issues because of the additional binding these type of control arms add to the rear suspension. Bottom line is the only aftermarket rear control arms I will use are Maximum Motorsports. The only upper control arms I will use are the OEM FORD arms with OEM style rubber bushings at both ends. Save yourself time, trouble, headaches, and money and DON'T buy these types of control arms. Read the tech from Maximum Motorsports and you will fully understand why.
    Trey, thanks for your input on this matter, you confirmed what I'd been thinking about these arms for awhile. To me it was just common sense that the stiffer the setup you just compound the problem in this case.

  9. #9

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    OK Guys,
    I do a lot of work with my local college an their welding class is cutting hole in hood this week.

    Back to control arms, would it help to weld gussets or plates to control arm to stiffen them?

    ed

  10. #10
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ThunderStruck View Post
    OK Guys,
    I do a lot of work with my local college an their welding class is cutting hole in hood this week.

    Back to control arms, would it help to weld gussets or plates to control arm to stiffen them?

    ed
    Please read the Maximum Motorsports tech and that should explain more of the rear control arm issues. The simple answer is YES that will stiffen them, but that will not improve the handling nor the ride quality of a stock style Fox Quadra Bind suspension. The issue with the Ford system is that both the upper and lower control arms are angled. As the suspension moves up and down, the opposing angles cause the suspension to bind or limit motion. The OEM control arms are stamped steel with rubber bushings that actually allow control arms to flex, roll, and stretch to limit the binding of the suspension. '

    Now take that same basic design, add poly bushings and tubular construction to the control arms and the suspension can not flex, roll, and stretch as originally design so the binding gets worse NOT better. Without major changes to the rear suspension design the addition of most aftermarket rear control arms will not be an advantage or improvement.

    If you are essentially a stock ride, then stay with the OEM control arms and RUBBER Bushings. If you want a slight improvement in handling then poly bushings at one end of the lower control arm ONLY! Stay with the rubber bushings in the uppers. There are different thoughts on which end of the lowers get the poly, but I won't get into that here.

    If you want improved ride and handling, then a quality aftermarket rear lower control arm such as Maximum Motorsports is the next option IMHO. You can pick from the entry level all the way up to the full race versions depending on your needs and desires. Again if keeping the stock style suspension stick with stock upper control arms and rubber bushings on both ends up top.

    After that you need to consider the different rear suspension available aftermarket. Maximum Motorsports offers the Torque Arm and a Panhard bar. There's the Torque Arm and a Watts Link, there' the 5 link setup by Steeda and other versions of the Panhard or even a 3 link setup. All of them require modifications, time and money. Again I personally recommend Maximum Motorsports I have never had an issue with ANYTHING I have purchased from them and I have been buying from them since they started in 1992.

    There are plenty of discussion here on FEP and on many other Mustang sites that discuss the ills of the stock Fox rear suspension and the Do's and Don't. I know I have been involved in several just here on FEP. A google search can help you find most of them. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  11. #11
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    I dont have any specific knowledge on specs and such, but I did my rear suspension shortly after getting my 84 vert around 5 years ago.

    I put in Gabriel quads. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/g...iABEgKvb_D_BwE

    I rebushed the rear uppers with Moog bushings. Purchased and used the bushing removal tool from MMS website. Was worth the cost. I used it twice and the threads on the bolts the push the old one out and new one in stripped but I replaced them with harder bolts from a hardware store.

    As for the rear lowers, I researched using the Energy bushing kit. it's the only kit available to rebush the rear lowers. It only comes with the urethane bushings and no sleeves so you have to torch the old ones to melt the rubber, push them out, wire brush the sleeves and press the new Energy bushings in. Seemed like too much work. my mechanic was not keen on doing the job and I read that urethane would stiffen the rear. https://www.energysuspensionparts.com/4.3115

    I ended up going for the least expensive rear lower by MMS. Also urethane but they assemble in pieces so they can twist. https://www.maximummotorsports.com/S...998-P1481.aspx

    I can say that with the old original rar lowers I used to get tire hop when I turned corners. I no longer get tire hop with the MMS rear lowers.

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