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  1. #1

    Default 200lb of torque while on your back? -front control arm tightening on ramps advice

    I just installed new front control arms, but need to torque them to spec with weight on the wheels. The spec is a crazy 200lb of torque...I'm even going to have to rent a higher capacity torque wrench for this.

    My question is has anyone been able to do this with a car just on ramps? THat's all I have available and am wondering if that amount of torque is even possible lying on a creeper under the car with only about a foot or two. Seems I could maybe reach the 200 while pushing up, but the pulling down without all of my weight as leverage seems almost impossible.

    Any advice? Anyone else do this successfully?

    I'm hoping I don't have to take it to a mechanic so they can use their lift since I already have the steering rack off for access. Would love to finish the job before I put that back.

  2. #2
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Honestly I very seldom actually torque my suspension to specs. Maybe not the best option, but I have similar issues as you are having. First I recommend a cheater bar to help increase your torque capacity. I generally use one that's about 2 ft long with about 1/2 slid over the ratchet. Then I usually pull my full weight up as I tighten. I weigh over 240lbs so I figure that should be plenty. Anyway been doing it that way for 30 years and never had any front suspension bolts come loose or cause any other problems. If anything I am known for Over Torquing my bolts, but again I have never had an issue.

    The only other option would be to get a local shop to allow you to drive up on their 4 post lift and then tighten the bolts using your torque wrench. Best way to do it if possible, but most of us don't have access to a 4 post lift, so . . . . Good Luck!
    ​Trey

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  3. #3
    FEP Power Member Mustang Marty's Avatar
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    I was able to get just enough movement on my 2ft long torque wrench to torque all four to 200ft/lbs. My car was resting only about 6" higher than normal (on dollies with a 2x10 set inside of them). I couldn't raise my car high enough with my cheap Al HF floor jack to place the wheels on my ramps. You'll be one up on me if you can use the ramps.
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  4. #4

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    A method I've used in the past is tighten the bolts to the highest possible known torque (with my control arms was somewhere around 150ft-lbs), then use a cheater bar and tighten the bolt a slight, but noticeable amount afterwards (1/16th to 1/8 turn). Done it this way many times without issue.

    Will use this approach again when I install SN-95 front control arms this winter.
    Jeremiah

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  5. #5

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    I just use a floor jack and a set if 3ton jack stands. Jack the car up high, put the jack stand under the control arm and then lower it a bit until most of the weight is on the jack stand. I wouldn't bother with a torque wrench honestly. I have a cheapie "Quinn" digital torque gauge from harbor freight, its basically a extension with a digital gauge on it. Might not be completely exact, but it was good enough for me. Then you can use a breaker bar.
    2 1986 cougars (both 4 eyed and 5.0)
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  6. #6

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    With the suspension at ride height, you only have to tighten the bolts with enough torque to keep the crush sleeve clamped. Once the crush sleeve is clamped, you can put the suspension at any ride height needed to torque the bolt to the specification. When you do this, the elastic behavior of the rubber bushing will be trying to untwist the crush sleeve. You need enough clamp load on the crush sleeve to stop the bushing from unwinding it, nothing more. Unfortunately the amount of torque required to get a certain clamp load on the crush sleeve varies a lot with the friction level in the bolts. New FCA bolts and nuts require around 25lbs-ft of torque to just overcome the friction. With those, you might need 70lbs-ft of applied torque to adequately clamp the crush sleeve.
    Jack Hidley
    Maximum Motorsports Tech Support

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