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  1. #1

    Default Testing TFI Modules

    Erratic50 and I have been fighting issues with TFI modules on my 86 GT Vert for a little over a year now. When it all started, I had a bad radiator, and a duralast module. Needless to say it got cooked... We replaced the radiator and put in a Motorcraft TFI module I got from Oreilly, and (I thought) my problems were solved.

    This past spring/summer came around, and with it some more fun with modules. It started out fairly simple. I'd drive my car to say, Taco Bell. The car would run great, stay cool, etc. I'd park it and go in to eat. I'd come back out 15 minutes later and jump in the car. Won't start. So I'd open the hood and wait 10 minutes for the module to cool off and then I'd drive home.

    I ran with the car like this for a while, I had bigger priorities at the time, and it really only did it on 100+ degree days.

    But then it eventually resumed doing it on the interstate, in the middle of intersections, etc. So needless to say it was time for it to get some more attention.

    I code scanned the car, and of course got a pip circuit code. On a whim, we popped the cap off the distributor to find a fair amount of oil inside. So we pulled the distributor and I took it to autozone for a lifetime warranty replacement. While we had it apart, erratic50 found this article: https://therangerstation.com/tech_li...agnostic.shtml and copy/pasted the TFI Module Resistance Test #5.

    I got out the multimeter, and tested all 3 modules I have on hand. (One brand new duralast one, The Motorcraft one I got from Oreilly, and a motorcraft module from a distributor I nabbed off a cat eyed lx in the local junk yard).

    All 3 modules passed these tests with flying colors. I figured I'd just put my Oreilly module back on and call it a day. But then I saw the table at the very bottom of the page, and opened excel.

    First I tested the module from the junkyard. The farthest out of whack it ever was was maybe 1000 ohms on something that was supposed to be 13.7K, for example. I figured A) There was some gunk on the connectors I ended up scrapping off, but B) The module was used for who knows how long, and that may have just been because of that. I called this module a pass.

    Then I tested the module off my car, the one from Oreilly. Honestly I have no f***ing clue how the car was even running at all. Most of the readings were between 2x and 10x what they were supposed to be, and some of them would just max out my meter and not give me anything. I concluded this module would be good for a paper weight, or maybe a door stop, but it would definitely NOT be my first choice for a module for my car.

    Then I tested the brand new duralast module. A lot of readings were actually way UNDER the expected values. I thought part of this might be the fact that it is brand new. But also the article states: "These values may be valid only on an OEM module, but may apply to aftermarket".

    So while I can say I'd never run a duralast rotor, I can't just call their ignition module a POS. It might actually work fine, who knows...

    I just thought it was interesting I pulled a module off my car that passed those initial tests, and then turned out to be complete junk. Big thanks to Oreilly for only providing a 1 year warranty, that has just barely ran out.

    Anyway, hopefully my car will at least take a moment to consider behaving itself now. If anyone here is having similar problems, I think that article might be of some help.
    Triple black '86 GT Convertible 5.0/5spd (T5Z, hurst short throw, VM-1, 93 leather, all black tmi door panels, 93 cobra wing, strut tower brace, sub-frame connectors, 13.5 degrees base timing).

  2. #2
    FEP Power Member mcb82gt's Avatar
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    Thanks for sharing. I printed all that for future reference.
    Mike

    Now stang-less.

    88 Cougar 5.0

  3. #3
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    The oil inside the distributor was new one to me when my 86GT did it in 2011. Had never seen such nonsense before, but I figured hey with near 1/2 million miles a seal can go out if it wants to

    Was nice to see I wasn’t just talking to myself back then when I told my son about it and 8 years later he diagnoses it on a reman dizzy that was only in there for a touch over a year

    The best part for both of us is when all the lessons over the years paid off. He was able to install a distributor, hit the key, and fire the car like it had just been turned off ...... just like I’m able to do

    module temps are vastly cooler with plug wires off one spot on the distributor and the module rotated the extra 22.5 degrees required to bring it into time with wire one spot off on purpose

    might sound like an easy thing to setup but go ahead and try it and see. Hint — you don’t have to remove the distributor to set that up you just have to pay attention to the rotor vs where the #1 wire is

  4. #4
    FEP Super Member Ken P's Avatar
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    There are remote mount TFI Module kits out there. While I have never tried one I've read many reviews saying it is the solution to the problem.
    86 LX Coupe 4E
    84 SVO Watkins Glen Pace Car 1E
    85 SVO Hertz 4E
    85.5 SVO 2R orig owner
    86 SVO 7B
    66 Fastback
    55 Willys Jeep Overland Wagon

  5. #5

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ken P View Post
    There are remote mount TFI Module kits out there. While I have never tried one I've read many reviews saying it is the solution to the problem.
    I would tend to think they would be a good solution as well. My 96 F250 has the TFI module mounted remotely, I figured Ford did that for a reason.

    The problem with me buying one of those kits right now is budget. My main focus lately has been keeping gas in the tank to be honest.
    Triple black '86 GT Convertible 5.0/5spd (T5Z, hurst short throw, VM-1, 93 leather, all black tmi door panels, 93 cobra wing, strut tower brace, sub-frame connectors, 13.5 degrees base timing).

  6. #6
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Imo with the spark plug wires moved one spot counterclockwise and the distributor turned there’s no reason to relocate the module. 95% of the benefit of moving the module is found in the first inch between it and the thermostat housing

  7. #7

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    that makes the module 'face' the fan right? I guess the logic is moving it away from the thermostat housing? I thought it would get better airflow from the fan facing 'perpendicular' to the fan also allowing more air to move around the distributor housing (the heatsink,a stupid heat sink most definitely).

    I had to raid the junk yard for the washer/flang bit that holds the shaft in place and TFI distributors with the remote TFI module were dime a dozen. You can't get a distributor that fits my 84.5 anyway but that is probably what I would do if I needed to relocate the TFI.
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    K&N filter in a stock dual snorkel, GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721 intake, MSD 8456 Dist., MSD 8227 coil
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers, catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals
    Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates and strut tower brace, 3.73 rear, dura grip (both Yukon)
    Ford Performance Springs, Firehawk A/S 225/55r16 on LMR TRX r390 wheels (street)
    Federal 595 rs-rr 245/40r17 and 255/40r17 on OE cobra r wheels (race)
    AOD rebuilt with a 6 clutch direct drum, Koline steels stacked with 8 clutches, Kevlar band, superior shift kit, new torque converter. --Everything else stock and fully functional.

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