1985 Mustang GT - Door Check Pin & Roller

[Huskers001]

Fellow Mustang Fans,

Question: Given the facts below, should I cut out the factory hinge pins so I can remove the door and replace the check pin roller?

I have a minor dilemma and am looking for advice. My driver side door is missing the roller on the check pin. The pin is there, no roller, so the door won't stay open. It's a minor nuisance I'd like to fix.

I know how to replace it. However, there is absolutely nothing wrong with the factory installed hinge pins. This car only has 8,500 miles and there's no play in the doors. I am hesitant to do the required surgery just for the roller.

Is it beneficial to take out the factory hinge pins and bushings and replace them with a set from LMR or CJ Pony Parts?

Any other advice?

Thanks for your inputs.

JB

1985 Ford Mustang GT, Oxford White w/ Charcoal stripe, Sun roof, 8.5K original miles
USAF, CMSgt (ret), 1985-2015

[wraithracing]

Not an easy repair on the vehicle, but I personally would try to replace the roller with the door in place. You will have to drive out the pin obviously to do that, but I think with some patience and a bit of contortion that is possible.

I would remove the inner fender liner on the driver side. That will give you access to both sides of the door. If you have a helper during the replacement that can make things go easier. Obviously the driver side wheel is removed and at least that side of the car is jacked up and placed on stands. That should help to give you room to work to drive out the original pin and then replace the pin and roller in the hinge assembly without having to remove the door from the vehicle.

If for any reason that doesn't work, then I would actually remove the hinge bolts and remove the entire door and hinges intact rather than cut the hinge pins for removal. With the inner splash shield removed you can get to the hinge bolts for removal. I don't recommend doing it with the fender in place without an extra pair of hands. I also recommend using 3M automotive masking tape (NOT the crap blue tape at Home Depot/Lowes) mask off the lower sill of the car inside and out, the door jamb area, outer edge of the quarter panel at the door jamb, the edge of the front fender, and the edge of the door before beginning. For added protection, I will add Duct tape on top of the 3M to prevent nicks, chips, scratches. Roll the window down, disconnect any PW/PL etc. wiring and pull thru the hinge post. Leave the door latched. Mark the hinge placement. If you have a 90 degree drill head, then I would drill two 1/8 hole in each hinge plate centered between the single bolt and the two other bolts. This will allow you to place the hinge and the backing plate back in the original location. Otherwise just make sure to mark the hinge locations well with Sharpie, Paint Pen, masking, etc. Remove the bolts with help standing or pushing the front of the door against the body. Then both of you grab the door, lift slightly and work the door handle. You should be able to swing the door out slightly as normal off the latch and then walk it back towards the quarter for the hinges to clear the fender. Place on a stand and then repair the roller as needed. Installation is the reverse, sometimes I will use a large towel under the back edge of the door to help lift it into position and prevent it from sagging or dropping too low. Once all the hinge bolts are in and lightly snug, you can have the help lift up on the back of the door to help position it in the correct location. Just take your time and line up the 1/8 holes with a drill bit if used, otherwise match the hinges up to your marks, snug and check your alignment at the quarter panel and latch. Good Luck!

[Huskers001]

wraithracing,

Thanks for the detailed instructions. I believe I will try the first option you referenced. I'm not sure I'd attempt the 2nd option. If option 1 does not work, it seems "easier" to cut out the hinge pins, fix the roller, and install new hinge pins and bushings.

JB

[wraithracing]

wraithracing,

Thanks for the detailed instructions. I believe I will try the first option you referenced. I'm not sure I'd attempt the 2nd option. If option 1 does not work, it seems "easier" to cut out the hinge pins, fix the roller, and install new hinge pins and bushings.

JB

I have done the hinge pins and bushings on the car with the front fender in place by myself ONCE! That was enough for me. Even with a second pair of hands it will be a difficult job and the biggest issue is not scratching or damaging the paint or body when removing and installing the door. If I were to do it again, I would just pull the front fender off to give me better access and less chance of damage. Good Luck!

[WilliamCapri]

It’s doable without cutting hinges or pulling the fender liner.

I was able to do it by grabbing the pin with vice grips between the roller supports and pounding the vice grip up. The pin hit the hinge and I then pried it aside with a screwdriver to make room to slide the roller in. Then drive the pin back into place with a drift and a hammer.

I added to this post. Good luck!

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...ace+pin+roller

[Huskers001]

It’s doable without cutting hinges or pulling the fender liner.

I was able to do it by grabbing the pin with vice grips between the roller supports and pounding the vice grip up. The pin hit the hinge and I then pried it aside with a screwdriver to make room to slide the roller in. Then drive the pin back into place with a drift and a hammer.

I added to this post. Good luck!

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...ace+pin+roller

Thank you for the additional information. I had read that post. I may consider this option. This car is in great shape and I'm pretty sure I'll mess up some paint somewhere.

JB

[4eyedblind]

Twisting and pounding the pin up runs the risk of loosening the new pin in the hole and having them fall out. The upper holder is very tight and the intention on assembly was for it to crimp down hard on the pin and hold it in place, Replacing hinge pins isn't hard, especially when the holes aren't wallowed out, like lots of them are. Here is how I supported the door to swing it out of the way, once I'd cut and removed the pins and was aligning the door for reinstallation of new pins