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  1. #1
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
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    Default Did I buy wrong intake? EGR related

    Man, it's just one thing after another. So I was starting to remove stuff from my old stock 84 intake and noticed that my new Edlebrock performer rpm intake that I installed does not have all the same holes on the back of it. It looks like it has hole for green tree(?) But its missing the red. Or is it other way around? Is it the Egr that's missing?

    Attachment 128902
    Attachment 128903
    Last edited by Sask84gt; 07-29-2019 at 05:50 PM.
    Mustangs
    84.5 Gt T-top
    85 Gt

  2. #2

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    Actually, you have no ports for those vacuum Tee's (red/green). What you have there is a port for a vacuum tree, or a port for vacuum (brakes / ac / heater/ etc). The red / green tee's are in a water port so they move vacuum from 1 port to another when the coolant heats up.

    Your stock intake has a water crossover in the back. Not many aftermarket intakes have that crossover. The old Weiand 8011 did, not sure many others did.

    Kenny

  3. #3
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
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    Man, that **** is confusing lol. So what would I install in the back of the Edlebrock then?
    Mustangs
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  4. #4

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    The tree can either go in the port under the carb (if there is room) or where you have the black plug on the runner. As for the heated vacuum switches... You don't have a lot of options. You could move them to the front of the manifold if you have enough ports in the water passage. If not you could rig up something in the metal heater tube(might work). Good luck, not an easy or pretty fix.

  5. #5
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
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    So can the vacuum heater switches or the other ones be deleted? Do I need them?
    Mustangs
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    85 Gt

  6. #6

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    There's nowhere for them out back of the RPM intake, and what would you want to "control" with them anyways? I'd be forgetting you ever saw the coolant-heated vacuum control switches, continue what you're doing, and don't look back.

    I mean... for entertainment or if you're curious, I think there's vacuum diagrams here, or maybe there's still a sticker under-hood somewhere, to see how they were connected and to what and for what and maybe be able to decipher what they used to do, when (cold/hot - vacuum disconnection/connection)... but I'm assuming you're not running whatever all they may have been for before. Install the metal "tree" into the port facing back under the carburetor flange, connect that with 3/8 hose to the car's vacuum "tree" on the firewall, and from that usually supplies the brake booster and whatever else the car needs...
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  7. #7
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Walking-Tall View Post
    There's nowhere for them out back of the RPM intake, and what would you want to "control" with them anyways? I'd be forgetting you ever saw the coolant-heated vacuum control switches, continue what you're doing, and don't look back.

    I mean... for entertainment or if you're curious, I think there's vacuum diagrams here, or maybe there's still a sticker under-hood somewhere, to see how they were connected and to what and for what and maybe be able to decipher what they used to do, when (cold/hot - vacuum disconnection/connection)... but I'm assuming you're not running whatever all they may have been for before. Install the metal "tree" into the port facing back under the carburetor flange, connect that with 3/8 hose to the car's vacuum "tree" on the firewall, and from that usually supplies the brake booster and whatever else the car needs...
    Thanks Mike, it's hard when this is your first time and you don't really know what you need and what you don't. Especially hard when the motor was not in car so I could see how everything was run. I was legit panicking last night thinking I was going to have to remove intake and buy another one lol. ��
    Mustangs
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  8. #8
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Gad this is so easy for me, Sask84gt.

    Everyone hates this Vehicle Emission Control Information detail sh!zEn but me.

    Tree tree, one two three, please grow very big for me.


    Just use the 1980-1983 B or X code 3.3 six water line, and fit the red and green line to that. The hose just has to have an always on hot water source, and you can then affix your Red and Green stock parts to it.


    Here is an 81 with the adaptor I have spoken of many times before.

    It has the Blue and Green TVS. This may be troubling to some of you, but it is just a simple matter to use it.

    You just bolt in the Red and Green tree



    Fellas, Ford spent bizzillions making the basic emission stuff work on engines that had no water cross over.

    Any engine can benefit from stock hook-ups.

    The 1983-1985 4bbl 5.0's had well over 100 emission control devices alluded to on the VECI diagram.

    The best forms of the art are the colored M code 4BBL 5.0 HO Mustangs of 1983-1985.



    Mike is the worlds most wonderful advocate of free choice. His opinion is that 93 out of 93 of those emissions devices are pure snake oil and crud.

    As a carb guy with access to all the vacuum claibration equipement,
    I don't agree,

    won't ever agree,

    but I agree with his right to dis-agree, and I'll fight

    for his right

    to part it out.
    As for me, I've spent weekends driving emissions festooned 216 hp 4bbl Carter Thermoquad 351C's (Baker Constructions silver Fairlane in 1989 while doing mine survey work, and a streatched 200 hp 4.9 liter 1982 LTD Limo )
    Seven years with an emission control and propane in-line cross flow six
    And 4 years of 91 hp 1946C Holley 1-bbl cold starts with the engine idling for days on end. (2011-2015)
    And emission control was definitley the best thing about the 1981 six cylinder Mustang, the 1976 Fairlane 5.8, and the 82 5.8 LTD.

    Take one thing away, and the whole system falls like a twin deck of cards.

    The following is the best list I could manage.


    0 VECI: Vehicle Emission Control Information, a Diagram detail
    1 A/CL: according to Ford, that IS the air cleaner
    2 A/CL DV: Air Cleaner Duct & Valve
    3 A/CL BI MET: Air Cleaner Bi-Metallic Valve
    4 A/CL CWM: Air Cleaner Cold Weather Modulator
    5 ACV: Air Control Valve
    6 AIR: This is a Secondary air injection Ford calls the Thermactor, short for Thermal Reactor. CA vehicles are installed with it as standard. Air Injection Reaction is what it stands for.
    The thermactor system consists mainly of the air pump, the air pump diverter and bypass valves, TAB and TAD solenoids (if equipped) and the catalytic converter.
    7 AIR BPV: Air Bypass Valve (aka Thermactor Air Bypass TAB)
    8 BV: Bowl Vent (on top of the float tanks)
    9 CARB: Carburetor
    10 CPRV: Canister Purge Valve ( PURGE CV : )
    11 DIST : Distributor of course.
    12 EGR: Exhaust Gas Recirculator
    13 EFCA: Electronic Fuel Control Assembly (ie Central Fuel Injection or Throttle Body Injection on EECIII and EECIV CFi "EFI" Fords)
    14 FLTR: Filter
    15 FPR: Fuel Pressure Regulator
    16 IVV: Thermactor Idle Vacuum Valve
    17 MAN VAC: Indicating Manifold vacuum-Vacuum source
    18 MAP: Manifold Absolute Pressure (BMAP: Bariometric Manifold Absolute Pressure, in the case of CFi 5.0 EECIII cars from 1979 to 1985)
    19 SOL V: Solenoid Valve
    20 SV-CBV: Carburetor Fuel Bowl Solenoid Vent Valve
    21 V VAC: short for Vacuum
    22 VCKV: Vacuum Check Valve
    23 VRESER: Vacuum Reservoir (Actually VRESER just stands for Vacuum Reservoir. It may or may not have a valve or Solenoid Valve inside it.
    24 VREST is a vacuum restriction, usually at the thermally controlled valve on top of the thermostat housing.
    *On 87 4V 460 F250 truck it is a simple Blue plastic orifice inline with the vacuum line. On 81 IV 200, Pink plastic orifice inline with the vacuum line
    25 VRV: Vacuum Regulator Valve
    26 VRDV: Vacuum Retard Delay Valve, as these can be used on more than just the distributor.
    27 TVS: Thermal Vacuum Switch, and is different to a Dashpot. On Fords these are usualy located in the air cleaner. IMPORTANT: Color defines Fords VECI Name, although clearly stamped TVS, they are called Item 4 A/CL CWM: Air Cleaner Cold Weather Modulator's and may be Green, Purple, Grey, White, Black or Yellow with a different rating based on color.
    28 TVV: Thermal Vent Valve. On Fords they are mostly controlled by ambient air temps. Simular to a TVS. Located between the carb and the charcoal cannister.
    29 PVS: Ported Vacuum Switch: Very similar to TVVs except on Fords they are used in the cooling system and are controlled by water temps.
    30 PURGE CV: Vapor Canister Purge Valve
    31 EVAP CANISTER ASY
    32 ISC: Ford refers to theirs as an Idle Speed Control (ISC) solenoid. Others mis-use the Idle Air Contro (IAC) term
    33 Idle Boost Solenoid (Orange Knob on 81, 82, 83 A/C Equiped 3.3's) or Throttle Kicker Control (TK)
    34 Carburettor Throttle Solenoid Positioner (Anti Dieseling Valve/Idle Stop Solenoid)
    35 S Spark Port
    36 EGR Actuator
    37 E EGR Port
    38 CATALYST or CAT is catalytic converter (VECI Diagram detail is CATALYST)
    39 ENG is engine;
    40 ACT - not sure, but on EFIs it means Air Charge Temperature sensor
    41 Inlet Air Temperature Control
    42 Green DVCV 2 port PVS Vaccum Switches
    43 Blue TCVV 3 Port Vaccum Switches
    44 Dual Diaphram Distibutor
    45 Black SDV Cold Start Spark Delay valve
    46 Black SDV EGR Vaccuum delay valve
    47 Deceleration Valve (PVS Cold Start lockout Dampened, Non Dashpot)
    48 Non dampened or 2 port PVS (dampened) control EGR
    49 Attitude and Position Fuel Trap
    50 PVS Vacuum with Sintered Line Filters
    51 Close Limit primary or Main Jets,
    52 Lead plug sealed idle screws
    53 Carburettor Throttle Solenoid Positioner (Repeat of 34, Anti Dieseling Valve/Idle Stop Solenoid)
    54 Evaporative Emmission Control System
    55 Anti Backfire Valve
    56 EGR Valve Actuator
    57 Vacuum Regulator/Solenoid
    58 SOL V: Solenoid Valve ( Repeat of 19 )
    59 Venturi Vacuum Amplifier
    60 Load Control Valve
    61 EGR B/P Transducer
    62 Signal Conditioner
    63 Ported Pressure Switch
    64 Vent Valve Vacuum
    65 Vacuum Controlled Switch
    66 Vacuum Controlled Switch (Cold Temp)
    67 Vacuum Controlled Switch (Decel Idle)
    68 Vacuum Delay Valve
    69 Vacuum Vent Valve
    70 Delay Valve Two Way
    71 Ignition Timing Vacuum Switch
    72 Ignition Pressure Switch
    73 TK (Throttle Kicker)
    74 Mushroom caps for charcoal fuel vapor canister vents (VECI Diagram detail).
    75 CARB BV (VECI Diagram detail, Repeat of 8 BV: Bowl Vent [on top of the float tanks])
    76 FUEL T (VECI Diagram detail)
    77 SLEEVE (VECI Diagram detail)
    78 TO ATMOS (VECI Diagram detail)
    79 VAC-SWITCH ASSY (VECI Diagram detail)
    80 SA-FV: Separator Assembly Fuel / Vaccum (VECI Diagram detail)
    81 PCV: Positive Crankcase Ventilation (VECI Diagram detail)
    82 A : Area to apply Hand Vacuum Pump test (VECI Diagram detail, often multiple 2X)
    83 Anti B/F : Anti Back Fire
    84 HEAT VLV : Heat Riser Valve (Drivers side Header Heat Riser in some cases)
    85 HICV : Hot Idle Control Valve
    86 VOLTM : Vacuum Operated Load Throttle Modulator
    87 VOTM : Vacuum Operated Throttle Modulator (Variation on 34 and 53 Carburettor Throttle Solenoid Positioner, 73 TK [Throttle Kicker])
    88 VR/S: Vaccum Regulator Solenoid
    89 VRDM : Vacuum Retard Delay Modulator
    90 DUMP : Dump (Open to Air, VECI Diagram detail)
    91 DIV : Diverter (VECI Diagram detail)
    92 LCV : Load Control Valve
    93 Vac Switch Assembley (Like SOL V, only vac operated, Refer Item 33, Idle Boost Solenoid [Orange Knob on 81, 82, 83 A/C Equiped 3.3's] used as a kind of Throttle Kicker Control [TK], but to contol base idle)



    Now, go see http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...ture-included)


    Mike and Jeff are the best assets on this forum for emission devices!

  9. #9
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    If you are not using the 100% stndard 4180c carb, then your on your own regards EGR.

    EGR ports on the 4180c don't just do EGR.



    Quote Originally Posted by JACook View Post
    In Ford shop manuals, that mechanical function is usually called 'De-Choke', while the vacuum-operated
    function that cracks the choke open once the engine starts is referred to as an 'Unloader' or a 'Pull-Off'.



    The fitting that sticks out above the unloader diaphragm supplies EGR vacuum (which is used for more
    than just EGR...) The larger tube that sticks out above the choke coil housing is a filtered air supply for
    the choke, and is looped back to the heat tube fitting on the Mustang carbs. That tube should not exist
    on carbs that have the diaphragm-style unloader.

    On the EGR spacer.....

    The 4180C EGR spacer and fitting was pretty tight on the 5.0. Its really a 460 4-bbl carb on a modified 1965 4 bbl 289 intake with the water crossover that makes everything so cramped. The EGR spacer, well, Ford had about six "goes" at the 4160/4180 spacer, each one different between the Big blocks and various small blocks. The aftermarket 8053 Edlebrock spacer doesn't help fit the carb, but the EGR parts are a combination of cast iron EGR mount.


  10. #10
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Copy the Edelborck 3721/8053 Manifold/EGR combination.


    It has a heat hole on the passenger side.




    [QUOTE=xctasy;1841846]Personal advice. I haven't done this, but I've done a lot of carb research. ..............

    3a.
    Quote Originally Posted by JACook View Post
    The Edelbrock 3721 is the only 4-barrel intake currently offered that will retain the EGR
    and also the two thermal vacuum switches at the back.

    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-3721/?image=large


    If you don't have a factory 4-barrel EGR spacer, you can get a used factory one from
    someone here on the board. Edelbrock also sells an EGR plate that would work-
    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-8053/?image=large

    The Edelbrock plate does not have all the same vacuum nipples as the factory plate,
    but the only one you need is the one for the canister purge, and it has that one.
    EDL-3721



    EDL-8053


    3b.
    Quote Originally Posted by n2omaverick View Post
    Stock intake is and always will be the bottle neck. Yes it can be ported but the lack of material and very small section width limits what it can me made to do. The edlbrock performer is a substantial upgrade and yet it is a very very weak intake that also needs tons off runner and plennum work to make any real power over 5500rpms.
    The performer rpm airgap is the best and tallest intake that can be run under a stock hood with the dual snorkel aircleaner while still allowing factory coil and throttle cable locations. This intake also allows you to hide the wiring harness in the valley. It will support over 400 hp out of the box but the factory heads will be the next bottleneck for you to overcome.
    If your sticking to the factory intake replace the egr with a hhv super sucker and give the intake to Tmoss for porting.
    1" supersucker pictured. Night and day difference when i installed one on my 83. Had to increase jets by 3 sizes after to compensate.


  11. #11
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Here's the part again for the two trees.




    Find it from any old 1980 iirc, C code 250/4.1 liter .

    B code 1980-1982 3.3 liter

    X code 1983 3.3 liter


    Pinto 2000 engines had them too.



  12. #12
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
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    Holy crap xctasy lol thanks for all that! Not sure I understand a quarter of it though lol.
    Mustangs
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    85 Gt

  13. #13
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Its ok.

    Since you new intake doesnt have EGR, you can fit it with a few drill holes and a little bit of adaptor work. Its principally missing an internal hole to cool the intake 4bbl mount. You can use your stick carb, EGR and a Ford 3.3 water Tree mount to make everything go together.

    Even old dirty Non EGR engines can be made to take EGR easily.

    The advtange is octane sensitivity reduction, part throttle economy improvement ( theoritcally...Mike will tell you what REALLY happen with the whole thing gets full of crud), and the whoke package is designed for quick warm up. Even though any 8.4 to 1 compression 174 to 210 hp engine will run better optimised with adjustable air bleeds, a nice set of jets, cleaned up and simplified main and secondary circuits, thats nit what all those emission bits were for. ITS FEDERAL MIssions gear. For smog. My advice. KEEP IT, AND NAKE IT WORK WITH YOUR NEW INTAKE.

  14. #14

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    In my universe, there's no such thing as an "old dirty non-EGR" engine. With appropriate compression and camshaft and timing position of it, and appropriate amounts of ignition advance, we get what's referred to a passive EGR, where there's no need of specifying a certain static compression and wide/retarded cam timing for "emission control" with an ultimately inefficient engine package at the end of the day.

    I do not need recirculated exhaust gases (EGR) to control or lessen some perceived excess oxides of nitrogen (hello, the great majority of the air all around you is comprised of nitrogen...) in a well thought out designed and executed combination like the above... and yes, PERFECT function, as to start up, warm up, idle air:fuel ratio, crispiest lean-best peppy part-throttle acceleration, and fuel mileage better than any efi system can muster like nobody ever thought possible, is easily attained with a carburetor by starting with appropriately sized primary idle feed restrictions and experimenting some to find the best size primary idle air bleeds... NOTHING else is NECESSARY for perfect and most economic function of internal combustion powering a jalopy down the road, that produces nothing but blue sky and puffy white clouds pollution-wise outta the tail pipes.
    Last edited by Walking-Tall; 08-01-2019 at 11:12 AM.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  15. #15

  16. #16
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    see this

    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...lant-crossover

    Quote Originally Posted by cb84capri View Post
    What is the deal with Edelbrock deleting the rear coolant crossover on their intake manifolds? My thought is that Ford put it there for a reason. My 347 is nearing completion, and the more I think about it, the more inclined I am to put my Professional Products Typhoon back on instead of my Edelbrock Performer RPM Airgap. Thoughts?

    Thanks,
    Cale



    Same issue rehashed.

  17. #17
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    No suck thing as a wrong intake. Ford we stuck with options for in line sixes that didn't have provisions for EGR since 1973 to about 1986, but that didnt stop them fitting the federally mandated gear.

    EGR valve D7DZ-9D475-D is the 250 six and 200 six engines are a great start if your stuck.

    It continued with an EO part number on to 1983 in the 3.3 liter Fairmont and LTD intermediates

    Those in line six cars (and OHC Pinto EAO T series and Lima 2000/2300's too) were born without an EGR heat crossover. Ever. Because they have an external tube. Great thing is you can use the exhaust pipes heat riser flapper valve as used on the 1983-1985 5.0 4bbls as a heat riser supply the way the in line fours and sixes did. So even if your 5.0's got headers, you can still fit an inert gas supply to the in line six EGR valve, and then to a D7 to E4 EGR 2BBL adaptor plate, or the Edelbrock 8053/8057 4-bbl to 2-bbl adaptor, or the stock Ford 4-bbls from D7-E4 adaptors on the 4180C Holley's












    If you ever get stock with non functioning EGR, the control systems on the early Thermactor Fords, the pre 1973 Ford 302's, and all 1977 to 1983 250 and 200's, as well as the 300 Ford trucks and Vans, they all had to have statutory functioning EGR systems, and you can use them to do the same job.

    Only the 3721 and 3771 Edelbrock intakes have EGR crossover ports. Edelbrock make a EDL 8053 and 8057 EGR plate to fit 4bbl 5.0 Mustang and 351M/400 Fords. They can be fed by an external exhaust line if EGR heat is required. Here is a 2V to 4bbl 351 Cleveland intake manifold, made with no EGR heat riser. It has none. If needed, you add the external Ford in line six EGR valve and line from the passenger side exhaust header


  18. #18
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    Cool

    Quote Originally Posted by xctasy View Post
    Gad this is so easy for me, Sask84gt.

    Everyone hates this Vehicle Emission Control Information detail sh!zEn but me.

    Tree tree, one two three, please grow very big for me.


    Just use the 1980-1983 B or X code 3.3 six water line, and fit the red and green line to that. The hose just has to have an always on hot water source, and you can then affix your Red and Green stock parts to it.


    Here is an 81 with the adaptor I have spoken of many times before.

    It has the Blue and Green TVS. This may be troubling to some of you, but it is just a simple matter to use it.

    You just bolt in the Red and Green tree



    Fellas, Ford spent bizzillions making the basic emission stuff work on engines that had no water cross over.

    Any engine can benefit from stock hook-ups.

    The 1983-1985 4bbl 5.0's had well over 100 emission control devices alluded to on the VECI diagram.

    The best forms of the art are the colored M code 4BBL 5.0 HO Mustangs of 1983-1985.





    As for me, I've spent weekends driving emissions festooned 216 hp 4bbl Carter Thermoquad 351C's (Baker Constructions silver Fairlane in 1989 while doing mine survey work, and a streatched 200 hp 4.9 liter 1982 LTD Limo )
    Seven years with an emission control and propane in-line cross flow six
    And 4 years of 91 hp 1946C Holley 1-bbl cold starts with the engine idling for days on end. (2011-2015)
    And emission control was definitley the best thing about the 1981 six cylinder Mustang, the 1976 Fairlane 5.8, and the 82 5.8 LTD.

    Take one thing away, and the whole system falls like a twin deck of cards.

    The following is the best list I could manage.


    0 VECI: Vehicle Emission Control Information, a Diagram detail
    1 A/CL: according to Ford, that IS the air cleaner
    2 A/CL DV: Air Cleaner Duct & Valve
    3 A/CL BI MET: Air Cleaner Bi-Metallic Valve
    4 A/CL CWM: Air Cleaner Cold Weather Modulator
    5 ACV: Air Control Valve
    6 AIR: This is a Secondary air injection Ford calls the Thermactor, short for Thermal Reactor. CA vehicles are installed with it as standard. Air Injection Reaction is what it stands for.
    The thermactor system consists mainly of the air pump, the air pump diverter and bypass valves, TAB and TAD solenoids (if equipped) and the catalytic converter.
    7 AIR BPV: Air Bypass Valve (aka Thermactor Air Bypass TAB)
    8 BV: Bowl Vent (on top of the float tanks)
    9 CARB: Carburetor
    10 CPRV: Canister Purge Valve ( PURGE CV : )
    11 DIST : Distributor of course.
    12 EGR: Exhaust Gas Recirculator
    13 EFCA: Electronic Fuel Control Assembly (ie Central Fuel Injection or Throttle Body Injection on EECIII and EECIV CFi "EFI" Fords)
    14 FLTR: Filter
    15 FPR: Fuel Pressure Regulator
    16 IVV: Thermactor Idle Vacuum Valve
    17 MAN VAC: Indicating Manifold vacuum-Vacuum source
    18 MAP: Manifold Absolute Pressure (BMAP: Bariometric Manifold Absolute Pressure, in the case of CFi 5.0 EECIII cars from 1979 to 1985)
    19 SOL V: Solenoid Valve
    20 SV-CBV: Carburetor Fuel Bowl Solenoid Vent Valve
    21 V VAC: short for Vacuum
    22 VCKV: Vacuum Check Valve
    23 VRESER: Vacuum Reservoir (Actually VRESER just stands for Vacuum Reservoir. It may or may not have a valve or Solenoid Valve inside it.
    24 VREST is a vacuum restriction, usually at the thermally controlled valve on top of the thermostat housing.
    *On 87 4V 460 F250 truck it is a simple Blue plastic orifice inline with the vacuum line. On 81 IV 200, Pink plastic orifice inline with the vacuum line
    25 VRV: Vacuum Regulator Valve
    26 VRDV: Vacuum Retard Delay Valve, as these can be used on more than just the distributor.
    27 TVS: Thermal Vacuum Switch, and is different to a Dashpot. On Fords these are usualy located in the air cleaner. IMPORTANT: Color defines Fords VECI Name, although clearly stamped TVS, they are called Item 4 A/CL CWM: Air Cleaner Cold Weather Modulator's and may be Green, Purple, Grey, White, Black or Yellow with a different rating based on color.
    28 TVV: Thermal Vent Valve. On Fords they are mostly controlled by ambient air temps. Simular to a TVS. Located between the carb and the charcoal cannister.
    29 PVS: Ported Vacuum Switch: Very similar to TVVs except on Fords they are used in the cooling system and are controlled by water temps.
    30 PURGE CV: Vapor Canister Purge Valve
    31 EVAP CANISTER ASY
    32 ISC: Ford refers to theirs as an Idle Speed Control (ISC) solenoid. Others mis-use the Idle Air Contro (IAC) term
    33 Idle Boost Solenoid (Orange Knob on 81, 82, 83 A/C Equiped 3.3's) or Throttle Kicker Control (TK)
    34 Carburettor Throttle Solenoid Positioner (Anti Dieseling Valve/Idle Stop Solenoid)
    35 S Spark Port
    36 EGR Actuator
    37 E EGR Port
    38 CATALYST or CAT is catalytic converter (VECI Diagram detail is CATALYST)
    39 ENG is engine;
    40 ACT - not sure, but on EFIs it means Air Charge Temperature sensor
    41 Inlet Air Temperature Control
    42 Green DVCV 2 port PVS Vaccum Switches
    43 Blue TCVV 3 Port Vaccum Switches
    44 Dual Diaphram Distibutor
    45 Black SDV Cold Start Spark Delay valve
    46 Black SDV EGR Vaccuum delay valve
    47 Deceleration Valve (PVS Cold Start lockout Dampened, Non Dashpot)
    48 Non dampened or 2 port PVS (dampened) control EGR
    49 Attitude and Position Fuel Trap
    50 PVS Vacuum with Sintered Line Filters
    51 Close Limit primary or Main Jets,
    52 Lead plug sealed idle screws
    53 Carburettor Throttle Solenoid Positioner (Repeat of 34, Anti Dieseling Valve/Idle Stop Solenoid)
    54 Evaporative Emmission Control System
    55 Anti Backfire Valve
    56 EGR Valve Actuator
    57 Vacuum Regulator/Solenoid
    58 SOL V: Solenoid Valve ( Repeat of 19 )
    59 Venturi Vacuum Amplifier
    60 Load Control Valve
    61 EGR B/P Transducer
    62 Signal Conditioner
    63 Ported Pressure Switch
    64 Vent Valve Vacuum
    65 Vacuum Controlled Switch
    66 Vacuum Controlled Switch (Cold Temp)
    67 Vacuum Controlled Switch (Decel Idle)
    68 Vacuum Delay Valve
    69 Vacuum Vent Valve
    70 Delay Valve Two Way
    71 Ignition Timing Vacuum Switch
    72 Ignition Pressure Switch
    73 TK (Throttle Kicker)
    74 Mushroom caps for charcoal fuel vapor canister vents (VECI Diagram detail).
    75 CARB BV (VECI Diagram detail, Repeat of 8 BV: Bowl Vent [on top of the float tanks])
    76 FUEL T (VECI Diagram detail)
    77 SLEEVE (VECI Diagram detail)
    78 TO ATMOS (VECI Diagram detail)
    79 VAC-SWITCH ASSY (VECI Diagram detail)
    80 SA-FV: Separator Assembly Fuel / Vaccum (VECI Diagram detail)
    81 PCV: Positive Crankcase Ventilation (VECI Diagram detail)
    82 A : Area to apply Hand Vacuum Pump test (VECI Diagram detail, often multiple 2X)
    83 Anti B/F : Anti Back Fire
    84 HEAT VLV : Heat Riser Valve (Drivers side Header Heat Riser in some cases)
    85 HICV : Hot Idle Control Valve
    86 VOLTM : Vacuum Operated Load Throttle Modulator
    87 VOTM : Vacuum Operated Throttle Modulator (Variation on 34 and 53 Carburettor Throttle Solenoid Positioner, 73 TK [Throttle Kicker])
    88 VR/S: Vaccum Regulator Solenoid
    89 VRDM : Vacuum Retard Delay Modulator
    90 DUMP : Dump (Open to Air, VECI Diagram detail)
    91 DIV : Diverter (VECI Diagram detail)
    92 LCV : Load Control Valve
    93 Vac Switch Assembley (Like SOL V, only vac operated, Refer Item 33, Idle Boost Solenoid [Orange Knob on 81, 82, 83 A/C Equiped 3.3's] used as a kind of Throttle Kicker Control [TK], but to contol base idle)



    Now, go see http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...ture-included)


    Mike and Jeff are the best assets on this forum for emission devices!
    This is what you get when lawyers design cars.

  19. #19
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Lol. Your not wrong..I guess forcing Auto makers to make Engineers personally responsible for the Environmental Compliance, Crash Safety and Corporate Average Fuel Economy also forced this crazy color coded Build litergy.

    It all started with the Clean Air act draft bill with Mopar building a California Air Resources Board love child in 1962 with a PCV. Then the "Four and Twenty Years ago" embracement of the colored beast. And we wish it all could cease...

    By 1986...it did.Mopawh by Fuel Injection Babeh!

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