Holley Carb identification

[Sask84gt]

Can anyone tell me what model Holley carb this is or how to find out? It was on a 85 I bought for a parts car. Always thought it was just the Holley for motorcraft stock one. Only number I can find is 80457-7 with 2328 underneath. Thanks
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[Sask84gt]

Searching the numbers the only one that came up was this. Numbers are not exact though.
https://www.holley.com/products/fuel...parts/0-80457S

[qikgts]

That's a run of the mill 4160 style 600 cfm, vac secondary, with an electric choke.
Nothing special there, and it may have been "calibrated" from Holley where it ran rich on a stock-ish 302. Does it look like there is a lot of soot inside under the butterflies?

[Sask84gt]

Ok, well it may be nothing special but it's got to be better than the stock Holley carb that was made for Ford. Going to put this one in my 84 instead of the stock one. Here is a pic of the inside. I'm not to knowledgeable but it looks clean to me.
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[qikgts]

It does look clean, almost like it was hardly even run. However none of those pics show beneath the butterflies.

Better is totally subjective. The 4180 on my car has a few things done to it and it runs good but the motor is basically stock. Is there an issue with the 4180 on your '84 you want to fix by swapping this on?

[Sask84gt]

It does look clean, almost like it was hardly even run. However none of those pics show beneath the butterflies.

Better is totally subjective. The 4180 on my car has a few things done to it and it runs good but the motor is basically stock. Is there an issue with the 4180 on your '84 you want to fix by swapping this on?

No not really, the one in my 84 we rebuilt but I've never seen it run. Motor was out of car when I bought it. The one in 85 is running and is a aftermarket carb. That's about it lol

[Sask84gt]

Paging Walking-Tall lol

[gr79]

Holley says R-80457-7 is the carb number similar to a VIN. 2328 below it is the build date.
4 digits is said to be on aftermarket or service carbs since 1972. Others are 3 digit.
232 is Julian date for August 20 or August 19 in leap year 1988 or 2008 the only 2 since 1968.
8 is the last year of decade 1978-1988-1998-2008.

Mine has date code 0305. 1/30/85. Carb was only offered in the 80's.

Specs and 'what is inside it' part number listing is down past 1/2 way in the PDF
80457-1 thru 80457-7 group

https://documents.holley.com/techlib...al_listing.pdf

[Sask84gt]

Holley says R-80457-7 is the carb number similar to a VIN. 2328 below it is the build date.
4 digits is said to be on aftermarket or service carbs since 1972. Others are 3 digit.
232 is Julian date for August 20 or August 19 in leap year 1988 or 2008 the only 2 since 1968.
8 is the last year of decade 1978-1988-1998-2008.

Mine has date code 0305. 1/30/85. Carb was only offered in the 80's.

Specs and 'what is inside it' part number listing is down past 1/2 way in the PDF
80457-1 thru 80457-7 group

https://documents.holley.com/techlib...al_listing.pdf

Thanks, very helpful!

[Sask84gt]

Holley says R-80457-7 is the carb number similar to a VIN. 2328 below it is the build date.
4 digits is said to be on aftermarket or service carbs since 1972. Others are 3 digit.
232 is Julian date for August 20 or August 19 in leap year 1988 or 2008 the only 2 since 1968.
8 is the last year of decade 1978-1988-1998-2008.

Mine has date code 0305. 1/30/85. Carb was only offered in the 80's.

Specs and 'what is inside it' part number listing is down past 1/2 way in the PDF
80457-1 thru 80457-7 group

https://documents.holley.com/techlib...al_listing.pdf

So how do I know if it was built in 78,88,98 or 2008?

[Walking-Tall]

The fellas have you covered for identification.

Not to burst any bubbles, but the couple of newer/new 80457's that I have dealt with contained a whole host of problems, like everything newer or brand new that I see from that company (and the clones have their own issues on top of quality issues, etc.) Without even one drop of BS or exaggeration: if you want a good one, a Holley or clone or other, get an old one. I'll list what was found and corrected a while back with an 80457-8 going onto a mild 302...

- internal needles and seats, floats set too low - didn't bother with all that, replaced float bowls with ones with external adjust needles and seats...
- primary idle feed restrictions big @ 0.028" (for a stock/mild 302 - 0.026" better)...
- primary idle air bleeds big @ 0.080" (might work out that size will work, but that's not a good place to start, for any vehicle combination - 0.070" better)...
- secondary metering plate main "jet" holes a bit small @ 0.070" - 0.073" better...
- primary metering block with up high bleeds into main wells from air wells (connection with primary main air bleeds) - often troublesome for/with booster signal or off-idle response... and not needed anyway, because after all, they stopped installing emulsion tubes into metering blocks that the bleeds were originally there to work with, about 30 years ago - blocked...
- the idle mixture screws in it were the "reverse idle" blunt tip kind, wrong - replaced with standard sharp tip mixture screws...
- secondary idle air bleed big @ 0.046"... can you say lean-transition-when-the-secondaries-open, a flat spot or bog?... installed 0.028"...
- no plastic primary float bowl vent anti-slosh piece - added one...

In a lot of ways, it appears that whatever is rolling around in the drawer or parts bins nowadays is getting slapped together willy-nilly. Oh well, more for me to do, LOL!!! ... but it's often disappointing, and temporary non-sense/hair-pulling issues...

[Walking-Tall]

So how do I know if it was built in 78,88,98 or 2008?

Short answer is, you don't. Unless you bought it new, and know, there's no real way of telling, besides maybe condition, cleanliness, finish still on it, etc...

[Sask84gt]

Thanks for your input Mike. No way really for me to find out what year it was. I think I'm still going to throw it on and see how it runs.

[Walking-Tall]

Well, if it happens to function a little funny, those are some potential reasons above. Easy enough to check if correct idle mixture screws are in it though. The wrong ones (blunt angled tip - the right ones are longer and sharper tipped) in them make adjusting the idle mixture way too course, minimally open and oodles rich, and very difficult to impossible to find the sweet spot of lean-best idle mixture. Good luck with it.

[Sask84gt]

Well, if it happens to function a little funny, those are some potential reasons above. Easy enough to check if correct idle mixture screws are in it though. The wrong ones (blunt angled tip - the right ones are longer and sharper tipped) in them make adjusting the idle mixture way too course, minimally open and oodles rich, and very difficult to impossible to find the sweet spot of lean-best idle mixture. Good luck with it.

So can you change them out for the better ones?

[Walking-Tall]

For the correct ones, yep. They're all 8-32 thread. If you remove the mixture screws, have a look down the holes with some light and see that the smaller holes that the tips go into are approximately 1/16"... use the shank of a 1/16" drill bit to check to be snug or slightly loose... sometimes the buggers are much bigger, also not good, another not really adjustable issue... requiring another metering block that does have ~1/16" mixture screw tip passages...

[Sask84gt]

For the correct ones, yep. They're all 8-32 thread. If you remove the mixture screws, have a look down the holes with some light and see that the smaller holes that the tips go into are approximately 1/16"... use the shank of a 1/16" drill bit to check to be snug or slightly loose... sometimes the buggers are much bigger, also not good, another not really adjustable issue... requiring another metering block that does have ~1/16" mixture screw tip passages...

Ok, thanks

[Walking-Tall]

Ok, thanks

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[erratic50]

Well done as always