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  1. #1

    Default Thread locker for brake lines?

    I'm putting on new classic tube brake lines on my 85 gt.........I think I've read that you can/need to use some type of ether tread locker or the white type of Teflon tape to prevent leaks.......is this so? Its been several years since the last time I've done a brake job, so this if it is true is a new one on me........can anyone set me straight on this?........Thanks again!

  2. #2
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Generally I would say you need neither. Your brake line fittings should all be flares that create a seal with the opposite fitting. Therefore no sealant or thread locker should be required. As long as your fittings are in good shape and not damaged, everything should fit together and seal just fine. Obviously if any of the fittings are damaged, they should be replaced as needed. Personally I have never used either Teflon tape nor thread locker on any brake fittings myself. Many of your fittings at the calipers will use copper washers, but that's about it in my experience. Good Luck!
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  3. #3
    FEP Power Member Broncojunkie's Avatar
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    If you're using a 1-man bleeder kit or a vacuum pump to bleed, it helps to have a little teflon tape on the bleeder screws. Or a dab of grease around the outside of the bleeder screw works too. It just keeps you from getting air into the system. That might be what you're thinking of.
    79 Pace Car - 331, t5
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  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by pw84 View Post
    I'm putting on new classic tube brake lines on my 85 gt.........I think I've read that you can/need to use some type of ether tread locker or the white type of Teflon tape to prevent leaks.......is this so? Its been several years since the last time I've done a brake job, so this if it is true is a new one on me........can anyone set me straight on this?........Thanks again!
    It's good that you asked, and double checked.
    Imho, double checking is always good. :-)

    Broncojunkie may be right in what you heard, or are thinking of.


    Yikes, no never ever ever use either on fittings.
    I can not stress that enough.

    Brake lines used flared fittings. The seal is between the two mating surfaces - only.
    The threads/nuts do zero sealing. Let me repeat that since it's very important - the threads/nuts do zero sealing.

    The threads/nuts should never ever ever ever have anything else applied to them - nothing.
    Otherwise, that cr*p could interfere with the mating surfaces making good contact and seal.


    Off hand, I not sure of a good google search, without getting deep into mechanical engineering.
    The following were quick links that I found about SAE (or ISO) flares and sealing:
    http://racetrackdriving.com/tech/bra...verted-bubble/
    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flare_fitting


    Good Luck!
    Joe - MechEngr & ElecEngr
    Last edited by stangPlus2Birds; 07-14-2019 at 03:34 PM.

  5. #5

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    Btw, I strongly suggest that people use the correct method for bleeding brakes - pressure bleeding.
    You can get a simple kit for ~$70 on Amazon. Imho, it does the job as well as my ~$300+ professional bleeder/adapter.


    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CJ5DZE2/
    Motive Products 0107 Power Pressure Brake and Clutch Bleeder For Ford and Asian Cars and Trucks
    Price: $54.95





    Note: Make sure you get the correct kit/adapter for your master cylinder on your car.

    From:
    https://www.motiveproducts.com/pages/application-guide

    Ford/Lincoln/Mercury

    Prior to 1985 most Ford products used a rectangular or oval shaped cap on a wide mouthed reservoir. From the early 70s to mid 80s the reservoir was metal, after that time period it was plastic. If the reservoir is less than 3.75" x 6" the 1105 adapter will be needed which comes with kit 0105, if larger than 3.75"x6" the 1115 adapter in kit 0115 will be needed.

    Prior to the 2005 model year every ford built since 1985 used the 1107 style cap (1117 is the metal version of the 1107). The 1107 is a 1/6 turn twist to lock cap with three locking tabs. The metal version of the 1107 is the 1117. Very rarely some Ford products use a round cap with only two locking tabs - that kit is the 0106 which comes with adapter 1106 - THIS IS A VERY RARE CAP - Please make sure your car actually needs the two tab cap before ordering.

    Starting in 2005 Mustangs started to use the 1118 cap and some other Ford cars also started to use the 1118 cap as time went on to about 2015. (note the 1108 WILL NOT WORK on Ford reservoirs). Starting in 2015 Ford made yet another shift to the 1100 style cap (the 1109 is the metal version of the 1100). We are seeing more late model Fords start to use the 1100 style. We know 2015 Mustangs use the 1100/1109. Some 2018 F150s also use the 1100/1109.

    The best thing to do is to look at your cap if your Ford vehicle is newer than 2005.
    The 1100/1109 is simple to tell - it is a female threaded cap that is about 1.75". It actually screws on 1.5-2 full turns onto the reservoir.

    The 1107/1117 is a twist to lock 1/6 turn cap. It has 3 locking tabs on the underside of the cap that engage tabs on the reservoir neck. It has an ID of about 2.0"
    The 1118 is also a twist to lock 1/6 turn cap. It has 3 locking tabs on the underside of the cap that engage tabs on the reservoir neck. It has an ID of about 1.9"

    Small Ford cars built on a European chassis such as the Focus and the Fiesta many times will need to use the European Bleeder 0100 or the 0109 with corresponding adapter 1100/1109.

    You can see pictures of our adapters with measurements at the below link
    https://www.motiveproducts.com/pages/caps

    Good Luck!

  6. #6

    Default

    Thanks for the information and as far as the brake bleeding I did look up the Motive kit you suggested. My master cylinder is metal with the wire holding the metal cap in place........I"m not sure from what I read on their site that they can be used with my master cylinder......Do they make an adapter that can be used with the rectangular metal master cylinder that is 5.5 inches by 2.5 wide at the reservoir.....it isn't the plastic one with the single screw lid opening.......thanks

  7. #7
    FEP Senior Member gt4494's Avatar
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    Ditto the No tape on brakes... NEVER use it on fuel lines either!!!!
    "If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough."
    Albert Einstein

    1984 20th Anniversary GT350
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  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by pw84 View Post
    Do they make an adapter that can be used with the rectangular metal master cylinder that is 5.5 inches by 2.5 wide at the reservoir.....it isn't the plastic one with the single screw lid opening.......thanks
    Phew, I thought that my '86 came with a cast iron master cylinder. From reading their web page, I thought I was loosing it.
    I changed my brakes to the Cobra kit around '97. So, it's been a while.
    I also remember using a cast iron adapter for my master cylinder on my '86 Tbird. That's when my neighbor (a mechanic for the State) helped me when no matter what I tried or did, I couldn't bleed the new rear wheel cylinders. He came over with his $$$ (at the time) pressure bleeder, and we were done in a few minutes. Wow!
    After that, I was sold!

    Then, my neighbor got to school the Mechanic Engineer with his Masters, why the other methods don't always work. Doh!
    It was so clear and obvious after he explained it to me. It was also another great life experience in learning about real-life nuances in production products. I learned so much, and so many practical things, from my neighbor.


    You want:
    https://www.motiveproducts.com/produ...erican-adapter

    105 Rectangular Early American Adapter
    Motive Products
    $ 37.95
    Our universal rectangular adapter kit comes with everything you need to convert your existing POWER BLEEDER to work on most American cars with metal rectangular hydraulic fluid reservoirs, including Ford, GM, and Chrysler vehicles. Also fits all other cars with rectangular fluid reservoirs up to 3.75 x 6 inches. Note: if your Motive Products Power Bleeder does not have a set of brass fittings on the hose midway between the tank and the cap you will also need to order p/n 0400. For a great customer supplied usage tip please see #10 on this web page.




    https://www.amazon.com/Motive-Produc.../dp/B000TYHZM8
    Motive Products 1105 Master Cylinder Adapter
    List Price: $37.95


    NOTE: This adapter works well and easily on full Cast Iron master cylinders.
    It can be used for a MC with a plastic reservoir up top, but tightening the 4 chains must be done slowly and evenly. And, no chain chain can be too loose or too tight. Yes, it can be a Big PITA, but it is possible.

    For a MC that is full Cast Iron, doing the above is also a good idea.
    In other words, torquing the ****** out of one chain, then moving to the next chain, and so on, does not work.
    I mention this, because other people will read the thread. And, people new to working on cars or brakes, may find the thread through a search.


    Good Luck!
    Last edited by stangPlus2Birds; 07-14-2019 at 06:56 PM.

  9. #9

    Default

    Thanks for all the help from all of you........saved me a lot of time and guess work.....I'll probably go ahead and buy the Motive products that will fit my car and since this will be my last, I'll probably be offering for sale here once I'm done.......thanks again!

  10. #10
    FEP Power Member
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    Living on the east coast, I would often put some anti seize on the nut threads and on the tube inside the nut. Hopefully next time they would come apart. No sealant on brake lines.
    Fox Body/3rd Gen MCA Gold Card Judge
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  11. #11
    FEP Power Member vintageracer's Avatar
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    This says it all!
    Mike
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