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  1. #1

    Default Startup after 20 years - protocol

    I will soon try starting up my 82 GT after 20 years of storage and want to make sure I do it right/minimize damage from a dry engine.
    I've replaced the complete fuel system, rebuilt the carb and now need to focus on the engine itself.
    Some say just fog the cylinders, take off the valve covers and squirt oil on all the rocker arms, etc.
    Others say, that is not enough and damage will be done.
    They say take out the distributor, use one of those extensions on a drill that reach down to the oil pump and drill counter clockwise until oil is seen pumping up through over all the rocker arms. They also say I'd probably have to move the motor manually with a breaker bar in the middle of this to get oil pumping to each area.
    My problem is I don't know how to do engine timing and moving the motor with the distributor off would throw that all off. I've watched some timing vids and they make it seem damn complicated/something best left to the experts.
    Is there a way to mark things so i could put the distributor back in just for the engine turn portion? Is the oil pump/extension method overkill?
    Appreciate any suggestions/advice!

  2. #2
    FEP Power Member richpet's Avatar
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    At a minimum, flush cooling system and fill with straight water. After you run it you might find leaks and in this way it is mostly water on your floor and not coolant. Fix any leaks and refill with your 50/50 mix.

    At a minimum you really should pull the dizzy and spin the oil pump shaft until you have pressure/oil all through. It has long dripped down. If you want it is not a bad idea to pull the valve covers off after you do it to confirm they all got oiled. You'll feel the pressure come up with your drill. If you want to drizzle a little more on there is no harm in that at all.

    Fogging the cylinders- not a bad idea (expect smoke on start up) but pressurizing with the oil pump is normally enough.

    Fresh oil/filter, just in case. If the filter has been oil soaked for 20 years it is entirely possible it has started to come apart inside.

    If you turn the motor by hand just do it before you pull the dizzy and you won't mess with any timing.

    Inspect the damper! Make sure the rubber ring is intact or you will never get it timed right, it might even come apart.

    Fresh fuel and plan to replace the fuel filter after you get it started and running for a bit.
    83 5.0 GT. Quicker than it looks! 10:1 (or just over) 306, Motorsport a332 cam, 140A alt, t5 conv, 8.8 w/ 3.27's, Edel rpm, alum rad, very worked e7's, Holley SA carb, etc... SOLD IT!!!!

    Now an 1981 Granada! .040 over 302, Edel E-street heads... Currently building a 347 because, why not?

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  3. #3
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    Marking the distributor location is easy. Turn it over until the timing pointer aligns to 0 deg. Remove the distributor cap and mark the position of the rotor on the housing. You might also want to mark the distributor housing to the block as well. That’s should do it.
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  4. #4
    FEP Power Member Broncojunkie's Avatar
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    You could always just buy a couple gallons of the cheapest lube oil you can find. Fill it up so that the bearings are submerged, then turn the engine over by hand a couple times. Fog cylinders, remove valve covers and oil that stuff by hand. Once you're satisfied with everything being lubed up well, drain and then top off oil to normal level. With valve covers still off, crank engine till you see oil moving (disable ignition so it doesn't start yet). Replace valve covers, enable ignition, and let her rip.
    79 Pace Car - 331, t5
    79 Pace Car- 302, 4 spd
    79 Cobra - working on 351w, t5
    82 Capri- working on 302, t5
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  5. #5
    FEP Senior Member gt4494's Avatar
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    A quick way to get oil and make sure it is going like it should is to pull the plugs (you should anyways) put some oil in the cylinders, take off the valve covers and unplug the ignition. Then crank it over until you get oil flow on both topends. This will make sure the oil system still works (pump, drive cam gear etc) and all is OK.

    There are many "right" ways to bring a car out of storage and this is just one.

    Don't forget to go through the braking system before even trying to move it.
    "If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough."
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    1984 20th Anniversary GT350
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  6. #6

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    I'm just a little ahead of you. I picked up a car recently that had been stored since 1993. I replaced fuel lines, tank and filter. Pulled plugs, gave each cylinder a shot of marvel. Dropped oil and filter and replaced. Pulled valve covers and oiled. Replaced valve cover gaskets (there wasn't much left to them). Spun oil pump and started. It fired up and runs good, except it won't idle. I'm trying to get that sorted now.

  7. #7
    FEP Senior Member gt4494's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BusaRider007 View Post
    I'm just a little ahead of you. I picked up a car recently that had been stored since 1993. I replaced fuel lines, tank and filter. Pulled plugs, gave each cylinder a shot of marvel. Dropped oil and filter and replaced. Pulled valve covers and oiled. Replaced valve cover gaskets (there wasn't much left to them). Spun oil pump and started. It fired up and runs good, except it won't idle. I'm trying to get that sorted now.
    Might be as simple as an old vacuum line cracked/leaking and is hard to see. Worse case could be idle passage in carb still has yuck in it.
    "If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough."
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    1984 20th Anniversary GT350
    Almost "Stock"

  8. #8

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    I love the idea of not messing with timing with this method. Seems like this method would be just as good as the drill method, but maybe just tax your battery a little?

    Trying to think if there are negatives to this vs. the drill.

    Thanks!

    Quote Originally Posted by gt4494 View Post
    A quick way to get oil and make sure it is going like it should is to pull the plugs (you should anyways) put some oil in the cylinders, take off the valve covers and unplug the ignition. Then crank it over until you get oil flow on both topends. This will make sure the oil system still works (pump, drive cam gear etc) and all is OK.

    There are many "right" ways to bring a car out of storage and this is just one.

    Don't forget to go through the braking system before even trying to move it.

  9. #9

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    This community rocks! Thanks for all the good ideas everyone!

  10. #10
    FEP Senior Member gt4494's Avatar
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    whichever way you choose let us know. I would probably make sure the battery is 100% charged and if you have access to another vehicle or a jump starter use themto help boost the charge. You will be surprised how fast the engine will spin with no plugs.

    I would also jump the starter solenoid so I could be under the hood watching as the engine spins. Make sure all the valves go up and down correctly, rockers are not loose or too tight, fan doesn't hit anything belts track straight etc.
    "If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough."
    Albert Einstein

    1984 20th Anniversary GT350
    Almost "Stock"

  11. #11

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    Couple followup questions.

    When I manually crank the engine with a breaker bar...If I'm facing the front of the car, I want to turn clockwise?

    If I pull the spark plugs and use the starter to crank the engine for the first time, that speed won't be too fast/do damage?

  12. #12
    FEP Power Member Broncojunkie's Avatar
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    Yes. Clockwise.
    79 Pace Car - 331, t5
    79 Pace Car- 302, 4 spd
    79 Cobra - working on 351w, t5
    82 Capri- working on 302, t5
    82gt - working on 408w, c4

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