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  1. #1

    Default SVO Valve Cover studs

    I'm about halfway thru a project on my 2.3L '79 Turbo Pace Car. I pulled the head and sent it BoPort for the Stage 3 head job w/ a Stage 2.1 cam. I just put the head back in. But a few years ago I found a very nice valve cover from an EFI Turbo Ford. It was powder coated and clear coated. It looks great. And of course I know my car is carbed. I also had BoPort port and polish my carb turbo intake. So I put the head back in last weekend and am looking to put on the new valve cover. But I dont know what size/length valve cover bolts to use.

    I found some specs on Stinger's website for "Rocker Cover to Head Bolt". It listed the size as M6x40mm 1.08mm pitch Class 9.8 . I spent a few hours last night and today looking for these and am having no luck. If I can find some ARP studs I would much rather use studs. But darned if I can find out what bolts work in these valve covers. I did a search on the forums but cant find a topic that covers this. Does someone know where I can get a hold of some studs that work with these valve covers and 2.3L head? And would I need Bolt grommets? I'll attach some pics below.

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  2. #2

    Default

    Did some more looking right after posting the above. I found this ARP bolt set. It's not studs but for valve cover use it should suffice. It comes with washers too.
    ARP M6 x 1.00 x 40 12-Point Head Black Oxide Bolt, 5-Pack ARP-670-1005

  3. #3
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Engine and vc lookin sharp. Good to know they work on this stuff.
    Wow ARP are expensive items in this case.

    Bolts do have a bit cleaner look unless say adding caps on top of nuts to finish the end.
    Studs would locate v/c easily.
    Whether nuts or bolts, a flanged type (like oe) needs no washers.

    No fun dropping fasteners into the turbo engine's dark crevices.
    Did that last week working on the hood scoop studs. Nut flew out of my hand.
    Found it down behind the alt brkt next to the dist. Had to make sure it did not go down into the timing belt.

    Specifically repainted my engine Ford gray (was blue) to help find oil leaks and reflect more light in there.
    Your black, silver, polish alum works perfectly with the pc bay color. Mine is black, so got away with gray.
    A lot of people request a look at the carb turbo engine. When the engine is pretty, it stands out like it should.

    Allen drive stud would be easier to thread into the head than a plain stud.
    A little longer than bolt length to allow install of flange nut or similar.
    Common variation for this size stud are for exhaust, etc, and not fully threaded.
    Nuts or bolts can be retained easily in a socket with a little dab of putty like butyl.

    Prob can find these locally:
    https://www.belmetric.com/m6x10-coar...62tesrdgliv1o2
    Last edited by gr79; 06-23-2019 at 09:44 PM.

  4. #4
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    I have been looking for valve cover hardware for the 2.8 engine in one of my cars. Looks to be similar. Thanks for the info.
    Fox Body/3rd Gen MCA Gold Card Judge
    84 SVO 24K miles, 85 Mclaren Capri Vert. 84 GT Turbo Vert.
    88 Mclaren Mustang Vert 20K miles, 89 Mustang LX Sport Vert,
    03 Mach 1 7900 miles, 74 Mustang II, 69 Mustang, 67 Mustang, 14 Mustang CS/GT,
    15 F150 FTX Tuscany, 16 F250 Crewcab, 67 Tbird 47K miles

  5. #5

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gr79 View Post
    Engine and vc lookin sharp. Good to know they work on this stuff.
    Wow ARP are expensive items in this case.

    Bolts do have a bit cleaner look unless say adding caps on top of nuts to finish the end.
    Studs would locate v/c easily.
    Whether nuts or bolts, a flanged type (like oe) needs no washers.

    No fun dropping fasteners into the turbo engine's dark crevices.
    Did that last week working on the hood scoop studs. Nut flew out of my hand.
    Found it down behind the alt brkt next to the dist. Had to make sure it did not go down into the timing belt.

    Specifically repainted my engine Ford gray (was blue) to help find oil leaks and reflect more light in there.
    Your black, silver, polish alum works perfectly with the pc bay color. Mine is black, so got away with gray.
    A lot of people request a look at the carb turbo engine. When the engine is pretty, it stands out like it should.

    Allen drive stud would be easier to thread into the head than a plain stud.
    A little longer than bolt length to allow install of flange nut or similar.
    Common variation for this size stud are for exhaust, etc, and not fully threaded.
    Nuts or bolts can be retained easily in a socket with a little dab of putty like butyl.

    Prob can find these locally:
    https://www.belmetric.com/m6x10-coar...62tesrdgliv1o2


    Thanks, I ordered the Allen Drive studs, and the extra tall Flange Nuts Stainless Smooth to go with them. They just came in this week. I'll be throwing the valve cover on and working on the vacuum routing. I've got the vacuum routing mostly figured out from how it was before I pulled the head off.

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by radartek View Post
    Thanks, I ordered the Allen Drive studs, and the extra tall Flange Nuts Stainless Smooth to go with them. They just came in this week. I'll be throwing the valve cover on and working on the vacuum routing. I've got the vacuum routing mostly figured out from how it was before I pulled the head off.
    Nice work going on here and a real head turner pace car! If you need any details on the vacuum line routing I've got the VECI book that should cover your model/year. Which studs did you order? Please post when you are done as I have a few that won't quite tighten all the way down so looking for an alternative.
    Current FEP:
    1980 M81 McLaren Carb Turbo 2.3T #003P ... IT'S ALIVE after a 22 year slumber thread!

    Past FEP:
    1986 Capri GS 5.0- very missed but in goods hands
    1985 LTD SSP- quick little fox 5.0

  7. #7
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    2x on the engine project details and upcoming pics.

    Boy, that orange shelving is well organized. Perfect size and location for quick picks.
    More storage is nice, but also has a tendency to collect unneeded items over the years.
    Found my small red rolling work table, with no cabinet to ding car, great for under hood projects. Cannot be stored when full.
    A long mobile work table with drawers or shelves, with clear worktop priority, would be killer.
    On the other hand, never seen anyone that has an uncluttered work area no matter what size.
    Wish i had a garage for any of them.
    Did build long strong 2' deep wood and 16" wire shelve space in the shed and house. Priority items in front, seasonal in back.
    To minimize the time finding anything adding to project time. Like unstacking, searching in boxes or plastic storage bins.

  8. #8

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by m81mclaren View Post
    Nice work going on here and a real head turner pace car! If you need any details on the vacuum line routing I've got the VECI book that should cover your model/year. Which studs did you order? Please post when you are done as I have a few that won't quite tighten all the way down so looking for an alternative.

    The below is the hardware I ordered from BelMetric.com for the valve cover. I test fit one in the head and it fits great. Still have to put the gasket in and put the studs and bolts in place. Plan to do that over the holiday/weekend. I've got a vacuum schematic for a 49-State Mustang Capri 2.3L Turbo - Calibration 9-2RE-R93. I really don't know if its for the '79 Pace Car but assumed so. I bought the car in Texas so I know it's a 49-State car but not sure of the Calibration number for that year. Everything seems to match up though. If you've got different vacuum schematics I'd like to see them if I could. Thanks


    Description
    Unit price
    Qty
    Amount
    S6X50FBLK - Allen Drive Stud Black [11729]
    Item# S6X50FBLK
    $0.75 USD
    10
    $7.50 USD
    NFF6TALLSS - EXTRA TALL Flange Nut Stainless Smooth [13802]
    Item# NFF6TALLSS
    $1.05 USD
    10
    $10.50 USD

  9. #9

    Default Valve Cover ON

    I bolted the Valve cover on with the studs and flange nuts (8ft/lbs). It came out great and I did use a Ranger head gasket. Other gaskets were too floppy for me. Also bolted the carb on. This carb was modified by Bob of Competition Carburetion in Reno, NV. He put in a Primary 22R-103-140 jet (124-275 for those of you with green jets), and 22R-103-145 (124-299 green jet). It should now support the added flow from the ported intake, and head. Air bleeds are Primary 190 and Secondary 180. He told me most people think the secondary air bleed should be larger than the primary but not necessarily so. My plan is too add a wide band sensor eventually to make sure the A/R is in the ballpark when under hard acceleration.

    I spent the rest of the day cutting new vacuum lines to replace 40-yr old ones. I did connect my power valve port to a new 1/16 NPT to 3/16 nipple I put in right between the #2 and #3 runners with a new Yellow Vacuum Restrictor (D9ZZ-12A225-A) in between. Left the old yellow vacuum restrictor going from #4 runner to the Vent Port (in the air horn). Got some more work to do, but all i all a good day with good progress.

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  10. #10
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    The v/c fasteners match well.
    Am using the blue Felpro Permatorque type v/c gasket since 2007. No leaks.

    Interesting about the larger jets in the carb.
    Always wondered how much more would be needed with certain mods.
    Looks like the new jets are one size up from stock.
    Be sure to connect the pv boost reference vac line in the front of the carb air horn. You prob know that.
    The tube in the middle front of air horn between the carb bowl vent solenoid and the fuel inlet.
    Non turbo n/a carbs do not have that tap.

    Good finding a 5200 carb man. Looks like new.
    Stock 79 HS air bleeds are 1.85 mm p and 1.95 mm s
    Like he said is not necessarily the correct calibration for all setups.

    Very curious what a wide band a/f would read on these engines.
    Numbers under boost, etc.
    Last edited by gr79; 07-05-2019 at 03:36 PM.

  11. #11

    Default More Vacuum line fun

    Almost finished with the vacuum lines, and ran some of the electrical wiring for the sensors (water temp, oil pressure, etc). Took me some time to find the water temp sensor, and then I hadn't marked the wiring for three sensors very good. So I had two wires and had to figure out which was the water temp sensor. Got that figured out, and hooked the one remaining to the rear passenger side of the block(by the #4 cylinder exhaust). I'm not exactly sure what that sensor is? Is it a oil temp sensor because I know the carb turbos will make the engine light blink if the engine overheats? The water temp sender should be the one directly below the oil pressure sender.

    Calling it a day. Still have to hook up the Air Bypass Valve and I'll start working on installing the smog air pump, and maybe tackle the alternator install.

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  12. #12
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Won't be long now.
    You are correct.
    Sender near #4 cyl is the high oil temp warning blinker.
    Reg water temp sender is below oil pressure sender.

  13. #13

    Default Smog Pump and Air Bypass valve installed.

    Took another run at getting some things done. I suppose I should have selected a more generic title for this post but too late for that. I installed the smog pump bracket. I have to tell you it was agonizing getting that thing back on. Seems like it would have been straight forward but it was not. I struggled with that things for at least a few hours. Finally got it on, then installed the smog pump, air Bypass valve, and the vacuum hose associated with it. Next up, running the sparkplug wires, and installing the alternator. Maybe tomorrow.

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    Last edited by radartek; 07-08-2019 at 06:58 PM.

  14. #14

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    Nice work! It seems you are far ahead of the knowledge curve and just going through the pain of executing. I went through all of this last year and several items not configured correctly at least per the VECI diagram.

    My VECI book is actually 1980 only but looks like you have that already confirmed. Oh man the smog pump, AC install, and especially the turbo install gave me pains!

    On the VC studs my cover is different so height may be different. I need to pull one out and take some measurements but really like the stud replacement you have done as I need a better seal on a couple of mine.
    Last edited by m81mclaren; 07-09-2019 at 05:18 PM. Reason: added items/pics
    Current FEP:
    1980 M81 McLaren Carb Turbo 2.3T #003P ... IT'S ALIVE after a 22 year slumber thread!

    Past FEP:
    1986 Capri GS 5.0- very missed but in goods hands
    1985 LTD SSP- quick little fox 5.0

  15. #15

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by m81mclaren View Post
    Nice work! It seems you are far ahead of the knowledge curve and just going through the pain of executing. I went through all of this last year and several items not configured correctly at least per the VECI diagram.

    My VECI book is actually 1980 only but looks like you have that already confirmed. Oh man the smog pump, AC install, and especially the turbo install gave me pains!

    On the VC studs my cover is different so height may be different. I need to pull one out and take some measurements but really like the stud replacement you have done as I need a better seal on a couple of mine.
    I learned a heck of a lot from reading on this forum for sure. Your build gave me lots of pointers. And I did a lot of research etc to figure stuff out. I bought this car brand new so I know a lots of it's quirks for sure. But to tell the truth I hadn't worked on it since my college days when I bought it. A lot of it came back as I was struggling to figure some things out (especially the vacuum lines). I had a few friends help me when I pulled the head, and they helped as well when I reinstalled the head after the porting job. I rebuilt the turbo myself so crossing my fingers that it runs ok. I think I did a good job on it. Got the kit from gpop shop. So today I put in the spark plugs after cleaning and regapping them. They appear to be in excellent shape so I'll just reuse them for now.

    Also put in the alternator and ran the fan belts, installed the fan all loosely for now. I'll tighten the belts and the fan later. Called it a day... I'll finish up in a few days then start on the radiator and hoses install.

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