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  1. #1

    Default SVO Valve Cover studs

    I'm about halfway thru a project on my 2.3L '79 Turbo Pace Car. I pulled the head and sent it BoPort for the Stage 3 head job w/ a Stage 2.1 cam. I just put the head back in. But a few years ago I found a very nice valve cover from an EFI Turbo Ford. It was powder coated and clear coated. It looks great. And of course I know my car is carbed. I also had BoPort port and polish my carb turbo intake. So I put the head back in last weekend and am looking to put on the new valve cover. But I dont know what size/length valve cover bolts to use.

    I found some specs on Stinger's website for "Rocker Cover to Head Bolt". It listed the size as M6x40mm 1.08mm pitch Class 9.8 . I spent a few hours last night and today looking for these and am having no luck. If I can find some ARP studs I would much rather use studs. But darned if I can find out what bolts work in these valve covers. I did a search on the forums but cant find a topic that covers this. Does someone know where I can get a hold of some studs that work with these valve covers and 2.3L head? And would I need Bolt grommets? I'll attach some pics below.

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  2. #2

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    Did some more looking right after posting the above. I found this ARP bolt set. It's not studs but for valve cover use it should suffice. It comes with washers too.
    ARP M6 x 1.00 x 40 12-Point Head Black Oxide Bolt, 5-Pack ARP-670-1005

  3. #3
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Engine and vc lookin sharp. Good to know they work on this stuff.
    Wow ARP are expensive items in this case.

    Bolts do have a bit cleaner look unless say adding caps on top of nuts to finish the end.
    Studs would locate v/c easily.
    Whether nuts or bolts, a flanged type (like oe) needs no washers.

    No fun dropping fasteners into the turbo engine's dark crevices.
    Did that last week working on the hood scoop studs. Nut flew out of my hand.
    Found it down behind the alt brkt next to the dist. Had to make sure it did not go down into the timing belt.

    Specifically repainted my engine Ford gray (was blue) to help find oil leaks and reflect more light in there.
    Your black, silver, polish alum works perfectly with the pc bay color. Mine is black, so got away with gray.
    A lot of people request a look at the carb turbo engine. When the engine is pretty, it stands out like it should.

    Allen drive stud would be easier to thread into the head than a plain stud.
    A little longer than bolt length to allow install of flange nut or similar.
    Common variation for this size stud are for exhaust, etc, and not fully threaded.
    Nuts or bolts can be retained easily in a socket with a little dab of putty like butyl.

    Prob can find these locally:
    https://www.belmetric.com/m6x10-coar...62tesrdgliv1o2
    Last edited by gr79; 06-23-2019 at 09:44 PM.

  4. #4
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    I have been looking for valve cover hardware for the 2.8 engine in one of my cars. Looks to be similar. Thanks for the info.
    Fox Body/3rd Gen MCA Gold Card Judge
    84 SVO 24K miles, 85 Mclaren Capri Vert. 84 GT Turbo Vert.
    88 Mclaren Mustang Vert 20K miles, 89 Mustang LX Sport Vert,
    03 Mach 1 7900 miles, 74 Mustang II, 69 Mustang, 67 Mustang, 14 Mustang CS/GT,
    15 F150 FTX Tuscany, 16 F250 Crewcab, 67 Tbird 47K miles

  5. #5

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gr79 View Post
    Engine and vc lookin sharp. Good to know they work on this stuff.
    Wow ARP are expensive items in this case.

    Bolts do have a bit cleaner look unless say adding caps on top of nuts to finish the end.
    Studs would locate v/c easily.
    Whether nuts or bolts, a flanged type (like oe) needs no washers.

    No fun dropping fasteners into the turbo engine's dark crevices.
    Did that last week working on the hood scoop studs. Nut flew out of my hand.
    Found it down behind the alt brkt next to the dist. Had to make sure it did not go down into the timing belt.

    Specifically repainted my engine Ford gray (was blue) to help find oil leaks and reflect more light in there.
    Your black, silver, polish alum works perfectly with the pc bay color. Mine is black, so got away with gray.
    A lot of people request a look at the carb turbo engine. When the engine is pretty, it stands out like it should.

    Allen drive stud would be easier to thread into the head than a plain stud.
    A little longer than bolt length to allow install of flange nut or similar.
    Common variation for this size stud are for exhaust, etc, and not fully threaded.
    Nuts or bolts can be retained easily in a socket with a little dab of putty like butyl.

    Prob can find these locally:
    https://www.belmetric.com/m6x10-coar...62tesrdgliv1o2


    Thanks, I ordered the Allen Drive studs, and the extra tall Flange Nuts Stainless Smooth to go with them. They just came in this week. I'll be throwing the valve cover on and working on the vacuum routing. I've got the vacuum routing mostly figured out from how it was before I pulled the head off.

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by radartek View Post
    Thanks, I ordered the Allen Drive studs, and the extra tall Flange Nuts Stainless Smooth to go with them. They just came in this week. I'll be throwing the valve cover on and working on the vacuum routing. I've got the vacuum routing mostly figured out from how it was before I pulled the head off.
    Nice work going on here and a real head turner pace car! If you need any details on the vacuum line routing I've got the VECI book that should cover your model/year. Which studs did you order? Please post when you are done as I have a few that won't quite tighten all the way down so looking for an alternative.
    Current FEP:
    1980 M81 McLaren Carb Turbo 2.3T #003P ... IT'S ALIVE after a 22 year slumber thread!

    Past FEP:
    1986 Capri GS 5.0- very missed but in goods hands
    1985 LTD SSP- quick little fox 5.0

  7. #7
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    2x on the engine project details and upcoming pics.

    Boy, that orange shelving is well organized. Perfect size and location for quick picks.
    More storage is nice, but also has a tendency to collect unneeded items over the years.
    Found my small red rolling work table, with no cabinet to ding car, great for under hood projects. Cannot be stored when full.
    A long mobile work table with drawers or shelves, with clear worktop priority, would be killer.
    On the other hand, never seen anyone that has an uncluttered work area no matter what size.
    Wish i had a garage for any of them.
    Did build long strong 2' deep wood and 16" wire shelve space in the shed and house. Priority items in front, seasonal in back.
    To minimize the time finding anything adding to project time. Like unstacking, searching in boxes or plastic storage bins.

  8. #8

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by m81mclaren View Post
    Nice work going on here and a real head turner pace car! If you need any details on the vacuum line routing I've got the VECI book that should cover your model/year. Which studs did you order? Please post when you are done as I have a few that won't quite tighten all the way down so looking for an alternative.

    The below is the hardware I ordered from BelMetric.com for the valve cover. I test fit one in the head and it fits great. Still have to put the gasket in and put the studs and bolts in place. Plan to do that over the holiday/weekend. I've got a vacuum schematic for a 49-State Mustang Capri 2.3L Turbo - Calibration 9-2RE-R93. I really don't know if its for the '79 Pace Car but assumed so. I bought the car in Texas so I know it's a 49-State car but not sure of the Calibration number for that year. Everything seems to match up though. If you've got different vacuum schematics I'd like to see them if I could. Thanks


    Description
    Unit price
    Qty
    Amount
    S6X50FBLK - Allen Drive Stud Black [11729]
    Item# S6X50FBLK
    $0.75 USD
    10
    $7.50 USD
    NFF6TALLSS - EXTRA TALL Flange Nut Stainless Smooth [13802]
    Item# NFF6TALLSS
    $1.05 USD
    10
    $10.50 USD

  9. #9

    Default Valve Cover ON

    I bolted the Valve cover on with the studs and flange nuts (8ft/lbs). It came out great and I did use a Ranger head gasket. Other gaskets were too floppy for me. Also bolted the carb on. This carb was modified by Bob of Competition Carburetion in Reno, NV. He put in a Primary 22R-103-140 jet (124-275 for those of you with green jets), and 22R-103-145 (124-299 green jet). It should now support the added flow from the ported intake, and head. Air bleeds are Primary 190 and Secondary 180. He told me most people think the secondary air bleed should be larger than the primary but not necessarily so. My plan is too add a wide band sensor eventually to make sure the A/R is in the ballpark when under hard acceleration.

    I spent the rest of the day cutting new vacuum lines to replace 40-yr old ones. I did connect my power valve port to a new 1/16 NPT to 3/16 nipple I put in right between the #2 and #3 runners with a new Yellow Vacuum Restrictor (D9ZZ-12A225-A) in between. Left the old yellow vacuum restrictor going from #4 runner to the Vent Port (in the air horn). Got some more work to do, but all i all a good day with good progress.

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  10. #10
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    The v/c fasteners match well.
    Am using the blue Felpro Permatorque type v/c gasket since 2007. No leaks.

    Interesting about the larger jets in the carb.
    Always wondered how much more would be needed with certain mods.
    Looks like the new jets are one size up from stock.
    Be sure to connect the pv boost reference vac line in the front of the carb air horn. You prob know that.
    The tube in the middle front of air horn between the carb bowl vent solenoid and the fuel inlet.
    Non turbo n/a carbs do not have that tap.

    Good finding a 5200 carb man. Looks like new.
    Stock 79 HS air bleeds are 1.85 mm p and 1.95 mm s
    Like he said is not necessarily the correct calibration for all setups.

    Very curious what a wide band a/f would read on these engines.
    Numbers under boost, etc.
    Last edited by gr79; 07-05-2019 at 03:36 PM.

  11. #11

    Default More Vacuum line fun

    Almost finished with the vacuum lines, and ran some of the electrical wiring for the sensors (water temp, oil pressure, etc). Took me some time to find the water temp sensor, and then I hadn't marked the wiring for three sensors very good. So I had two wires and had to figure out which was the water temp sensor. Got that figured out, and hooked the one remaining to the rear passenger side of the block(by the #4 cylinder exhaust). I'm not exactly sure what that sensor is? Is it a oil temp sensor because I know the carb turbos will make the engine light blink if the engine overheats? The water temp sender should be the one directly below the oil pressure sender.

    Calling it a day. Still have to hook up the Air Bypass Valve and I'll start working on installing the smog air pump, and maybe tackle the alternator install.

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  12. #12
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Won't be long now.
    You are correct.
    Sender near #4 cyl is the high oil temp warning blinker.
    Reg water temp sender is below oil pressure sender.

  13. #13

    Default Smog Pump and Air Bypass valve installed.

    Took another run at getting some things done. I suppose I should have selected a more generic title for this post but too late for that. I installed the smog pump bracket. I have to tell you it was agonizing getting that thing back on. Seems like it would have been straight forward but it was not. I struggled with that things for at least a few hours. Finally got it on, then installed the smog pump, air Bypass valve, and the vacuum hose associated with it. Next up, running the sparkplug wires, and installing the alternator. Maybe tomorrow.

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    Last edited by radartek; 07-08-2019 at 06:58 PM.

  14. #14

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    Nice work! It seems you are far ahead of the knowledge curve and just going through the pain of executing. I went through all of this last year and several items not configured correctly at least per the VECI diagram.

    My VECI book is actually 1980 only but looks like you have that already confirmed. Oh man the smog pump, AC install, and especially the turbo install gave me pains!

    On the VC studs my cover is different so height may be different. I need to pull one out and take some measurements but really like the stud replacement you have done as I need a better seal on a couple of mine.
    Last edited by m81mclaren; 07-09-2019 at 05:18 PM. Reason: added items/pics
    Current FEP:
    1980 M81 McLaren Carb Turbo 2.3T #003P ... IT'S ALIVE after a 22 year slumber thread!

    Past FEP:
    1986 Capri GS 5.0- very missed but in goods hands
    1985 LTD SSP- quick little fox 5.0

  15. #15

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by m81mclaren View Post
    Nice work! It seems you are far ahead of the knowledge curve and just going through the pain of executing. I went through all of this last year and several items not configured correctly at least per the VECI diagram.

    My VECI book is actually 1980 only but looks like you have that already confirmed. Oh man the smog pump, AC install, and especially the turbo install gave me pains!

    On the VC studs my cover is different so height may be different. I need to pull one out and take some measurements but really like the stud replacement you have done as I need a better seal on a couple of mine.
    I learned a heck of a lot from reading on this forum for sure. Your build gave me lots of pointers. And I did a lot of research etc to figure stuff out. I bought this car brand new so I know a lots of it's quirks for sure. But to tell the truth I hadn't worked on it since my college days when I bought it. A lot of it came back as I was struggling to figure some things out (especially the vacuum lines). I had a few friends help me when I pulled the head, and they helped as well when I reinstalled the head after the porting job. I rebuilt the turbo myself so crossing my fingers that it runs ok. I think I did a good job on it. Got the kit from gpop shop. So today I put in the spark plugs after cleaning and regapping them. They appear to be in excellent shape so I'll just reuse them for now.

    Also put in the alternator and ran the fan belts, installed the fan all loosely for now. I'll tighten the belts and the fan later. Called it a day... I'll finish up in a few days then start on the radiator and hoses install.

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  16. #16

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    Tightened the fan belts that I installed awhile back. Put in a new distributor rotor and cap. Greased up the terminals (dielectric grease) and put the wires back on in the right order. Firing order 1-3-4-2 . I had screwed that up and put them in clockwise 1-2-3-4 . That would have been a huge mistake when trying to start the engine for the first time. Put in a new magnetic oil plug, and also put in 5 quarts of Royal Purple. I think I remember seeing that the capacity of the 2.3L Turbo was 5.5 quarts but I'm trying to get verification of that. Any know the capacity including the oil filter? No pics for now. It looks basically that same as last post.

    Next up radiator and hose install. Maybe new fuel pump install.

  17. #17
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Great- a long term owner like me. 350k on my turbo Cobra.
    Quarks- that's the word, extra ones for carb turbos.
    The reason for keeping pc MS data base records or dated word file for cars, house.

    Converted to a newer style 2.3 front fill steel rocker cover at last rebuild. Front fill.
    Old problem was the rear fill, old cap, and the nearby dirty hood insulation closely over it.
    Hood insulation is ancient history on mine. Old style material composition is a dirt magnet on a dd.
    Now problem was stock air cleaner plus strut brace blocked the front fill style cap and hole. Tall narrow neck funnel req.
    Have new carb and smaller a/c now, so that prob has went away.

    Believe the owners manual, for one, says 5.5 with filter.
    I make it simple and dump 5 qts in, then wait until its a 1/2 quart low.

    Had to make a new dipstick last rebuild. Got length close. Reads over full at o/c before engine start.
    Top bracket spot welds ,holding the dip, broke. The tube eventually cracked way down at the block.
    A quark?

    Replaced the oe T-stat housing in 2016. Started seeping (rust out). New (Dorman/AZ 9.00) looks better too
    Also now use constant tension (spring) hose clamps instead of adjustable worm drive on the hoses.
    The proper size holds the hose fine, hose does not blow off, clamp does not dig into the rubber.
    Now is the time for new rad hoses if needed while block is dry. The rubber ages like tires.

    Next: Copy of shop manual pics. The firing order showing cap and screw details in relation to plug wire towers.
    Some sites have this all wrong or do not show the cap detail.
    Torque values match shop manual, plus cover a wider range of years.
    http://torquespecs.tripod.com/mustan...79-93_4cyl.htm
    Last edited by gr79; 07-18-2019 at 09:37 PM.

  18. #18

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gr79 View Post
    Great- a long term owner like me. 350k on my turbo Cobra.
    Quarks- that's the word, extra ones for carb turbos.
    The reason for keeping pc MS data base records or dated word file for cars, house.

    Converted to a newer style 2.3 front fill steel rocker cover at last rebuild. Front fill.
    Old problem was the rear fill, old cap, and the nearby dirty hood insulation closely over it.
    Hood insulation is ancient history on mine. Old style material composition is a dirt magnet on a dd.
    Now problem was stock air cleaner plus strut brace blocked the front fill style cap and hole. Tall narrow neck funnel req.
    Have new carb and smaller a/c now, so that prob has went away.

    Believe the owners manual, for one, says 5.5 with filter.
    I make it simple and dump 5 qts in, then wait until its a 1/2 quart low.

    Had to make a new dipstick last rebuild. Got length close. Reads over full at o/c before engine start.
    Top bracket spot welds ,holding the dip, broke. The tube eventually cracked way down at the block.
    A quark?

    Replaced the oe T-stat housing in 2016. Started seeping (rust out). New (Dorman/AZ 9.00) looks better too
    Also now use constant tension (spring) hose clamps instead of adjustable worm drive on the hoses.
    The proper size holds the hose fine, hose does not blow off, clamp does not dig into the rubber.
    Now is the time for new rad hoses if needed while block is dry. The rubber ages like tires.

    Next: Copy of shop manual pics. The firing order showing cap and screw details in relation to plug wire towers.
    Some sites have this all wrong or do not show the cap detail.
    Torque values match shop manual, plus cover a wider range of years.
    http://torquespecs.tripod.com/mustan...79-93_4cyl.htm
    Thanks gr79. I was busy all day today on my Pace Car. I painted my fan shround with some satin black and then put two coats of satin clearcoat on it. It looks great. Also painted and clear coated the plastic parts of the air snorkel/ tubing coming out of the air cleaner. Installed the SVE 3-row Radiator. It fit perfect. Just had to remove the two fan shrouds clips off the old radiator and put them on the new radiator. Getting to the end game now. Tomorrow it's time to put in the coolant/antifreeze (10.2 quarts), and charge the battery thats been sitting a few months. I hope the battery is still ok. I don't think I'll fire it up tomorrow yet. I'm still working on the air dam alignment, and aligning the SEV Marchal fog lights.

    Here's some pics.

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  19. #19

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    Well, put in the coolant/antifreeze and tried cranking it up. Did not start although it was trying. I tried to move the distributor to get the right timing to get it started and idling. No go. Could not advance or retard enough to find the sweet spot so it would at least fire up and idle. Put the car at TDC, checked to make sure it was #1 cylinder by pulling the plug and put a small screwdriver to make sure piston was up at approx. TDC. Looking at the rotor, stator and armature I saw that there was no way I could advance/retard any armature tooth to align with the stator pickup (static timing). I hit limits like tubing or hard line with the vacuum advance can. To make matters worse when I pulled the distributor cap the rotor was pointed at the #4 cylinder!!. I must have lost my place when rotating the crank when I was putting all the timing marks together, and set timing with the #4 cylinder at TDC. So it appears the distributor is 180 deg off. Tomorrow i'll see if I can swap cyl 1 to 4 and 2 to 3 to see if that clears things up.... If it does then I'll pull the distributor and rotate 180 degress and reinstall and swap the plug wires back...

  20. #20

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    Well, the distributor wasn't 180 out like I thought. At TDC the tooth on the armature was not lined up with the stator at the #1 cylinder position. I ended up having to pull the distributor and rotate it a tooth to get it to line up. Once I did that it fired up right away. But then there was all kinds of smoke from the turbo area, and Oil all over the place even coming out of the turbine housing. I had rebuilt the turbo myself, and thought probably didn't do a very good job of it. Lots and lots of oil. So I was reading about how the oil is under pressure into the turbo, and then the oil basically gravity feeds back down thru the oil return to the oil pan. Crankcase pressure could prevent the oil from draining and cause to back up in the turbo and out thru the seals. So I checked the PVC valve and valve cover vent and they were all working good. Nothing to do now but to pull the turbo. Also read that when rebuilding a turbo you should make sure no brittle rubber fell off into the drain when pulling the old turbo oil return line. I didn't do this. Took me four hours to get that darn turbo off. Finally did though and took a rubber line to the turbo drain line and blew into it. It was restricted and something blew out into the oil pan, and then it was no restriction. I'm sure that an old piece of rubber somehow ended up restricting the oil return line and caused the oil to back up and through the seals. It then went into the turbine side and ended up burned hence all the smoke from the exhaust.

    While I've got the turbo out I'm going to send it to a professional turbo guy to service it. I don't want anything like that happening again. Pulling that turbo was the hardest thing I've done yet in this project. But I'm optimistic I've found the problem, and having a real turbo guy look at the turbo will do wonders for peace of mind that everything was done right.

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    Last edited by radartek; 07-28-2019 at 11:14 PM.

  21. #21
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Default Just a reminder about carb turbo reinstall:

    Removing, replacing the turbo is like reaching out and down curling a bowling ball with two hands.
    Back of legs, etc will protest. Almost can justify using a picker or chain fall.
    As you may know, lots of notes on the turbo in m81mclarens's "its alive" thread.

    Be absolutely certain the turbo housings are re clocked exactly like they were when removed.
    All the housing bolts cannot be accessed to reclock on car.
    Housings, center section scribed even before taken apart.
    Any variation may cause bad oil leak where the turbo mounts to manifold. Been there.
    No fun removing, reclocking, and doing multiple reinstalls.
    Compressor lining up with manifold, and at the same time, turbine bolts lining up with crossover pipe.
    The HF wrench i use makes the exhaust bolts much easier to get at from above.

    Also the cast aluminum flange/spacer may crack if torquing down turbo that is not clocked right.
    It has to sit dead flat on intake before tightening nuts.
    I had a spare. Other wise was in deep you-know-what.
    Posted this pic before. Such a bummer had to post it again. Prob can be welded.
    A custom billet version would be the best. Lucky it does unbolt from the center section.
    Seen flanges online, but may be generic for only exhaust mounted turbos.
    Bet that is one reason the carb turbo engine was not popular to work on.
    Its oval o-ring is a round one stretched to shape in case it needs replacement. A pick tool gets it out.

    Of course all new turbo to manifold o-rings are best. A little dielectric grease will hold the vertical ones in.

    When i reinstalled mine, engine immediately burned oil out tailpipe first time i got on it.
    Not a fog, just is like v seals, which prob are worn. The usual pan gasket and seal seeps too. No drips.
    Only at red light or idling. Big puff. None seen when driving. Plugs read normal.
    Engine uses oil about the same as always. 500-1000/qt. Never was better than 1000.
    Rebuilder said he used the correct seals for a drawthru. Drain back is clear.
    The high vol oil pump prob does not help. Floods the bearing. Never again. Std turbo pump next time.
    Maybe a turbo oil supply line restricter would help.
    Last edited by gr79; 08-12-2019 at 10:22 AM.

  22. #22

    Default

    I got the turbo back last Friday and put it in Saturday. Pulling and installing a turbo without removing the intake and/or head is not fun. Just had to plug away at it, and finally got it done on Monday. But I didn't get very far because one of the hoses from the charcoal canister was a little to close to the cam sprocket. Evidently the backplate to the cam sprocket pulled the rubber hose in between it and the valve cover and wrapped it around the cam three times. I was not happy need less to say that I had the hoses too close and not tied them up somehow in a safe place. I ended up pulling the valve cover to finally cut the hose free. Another day wasted without much progress, but it had to be done. I had put the timing cover in place and that was a bear to get off, especially that little bolt next to the thermostat attaching the upper timing cover to the head. But valve cover is off, hose is gone from around cam and ready to throw everything back together tomorrow. Lesson learned.... the hard way.

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    Hose wrapped around cam 3 times

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    Pulling hose out


    I learned so much from the past few weeks especially from gr79 and m81mclaren. Without their help I would have been flailing around, and getting discouraged. But seeing what those guys went thru with their carb turbos is giving me the perseverance to push thru the disappointments. Lastly I bought a billet timing indicator. I most likely will leave my timing cover off and needed a way to find TDC. In the early foxes the timing marks are on the crank pulley and the pointer is on the timing cover. I need to find TDC and then etch a new timing mark "0" on my crank pulley with the billet timing mark indicator installed. Lots to do before I rest for sure.

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  23. #23

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    Well, early this morning I got news I didn't want. Seems like when that hose wrapped around the cam it the crank sprocket that turns the timing belt stripped the timing belt teeth. I verified that this morning by turning the crank and the timing belt did not move. Also verified that the the crank sprocket was turning to make sure. I inspected way down by the crank and can see stripped timing belt teeth. Will have to pull the radiator now, belts, crank pulley etc etc. What a way to learn a lesson. Not feeling real happy about this but ready to tackle step by step. What a mess!!!

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  24. #24

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    Oh man am I having flashbacks on installing and pulling the turbo again for my rebuild and then re-installing loose and in sections in order to get it to sit just right. Then there's that crossover pipe . Total pain in the ass to say the least! Hope the rebuilder kept the correct type of carbon seal you got in the GPOP kit.

    Keep at it looks like you are very close just stay patient as you are. I've already forgotten much of what I did over the last few years (must be blocking it out of my mind!) but the threads and folks here really made the difference in maintaining some motivation. I too had similar troubles with the distributor clocking and had to pull the timing belt and check TDC several times which also required pulling the rad. I can R&R it now in 10 minutes easy which it sounds like you are probably same. I'm amazed now how quickly my car starts even after sitting for a month once everything was basically right. Check my thread if you need specs on the turbo flange and manifold gaskets. I have some spares so hit me up if you need anything. For some reason I thought you are in the SF Bay Area and if so let me know if you need an extra pair of hands.
    Last edited by m81mclaren; 08-09-2019 at 11:49 AM.
    Current FEP:
    1980 M81 McLaren Carb Turbo 2.3T #003P ... IT'S ALIVE after a 22 year slumber thread!

    Past FEP:
    1986 Capri GS 5.0- very missed but in goods hands
    1985 LTD SSP- quick little fox 5.0

  25. #25
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Jun 2009
    Location
    SE Michigan
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    3,938

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    Every vehicle has its tough spots. Newer ones especially.
    Will not do the t-belt or plugs on my 93 2.3 Ranger. Dealer gets the honors.

    On the 'bright side', the hose wrap did not happen 100 miles from home.
    Time to size up the new timing pointer.

    On mine, the strut tower cross brace is the 'border' for anything crossing that area.
    Nothing gets routed in front of it near the timing cover.
    Have several items zip tied to it near the strut towers and cowl.

    Caution- read a long time ago the timing covers keep debris out of the rotating timing belt and gears.
    Prob fine for drag strip but would be wary on a daily driver. Stones, what not. Hoses.
    One piece front covers are not very convenient for adj cam pulley for sure.

    Maybe another stud, spacer, nut like on the rocker cover, would work instead of the bolt near the thermostat?
    That is a hard area to work and see on a 2.3 rethreading a bolt.

    Goal is to get driving hours to total much more than maint or repair hours. Is doable with a carb 2.3T once debugged.
    Very enjoyable to drive, reliable, economical, but is not for most anyone used to a V8.
    Would have gotten rid of it a long time ago if was more work than pleasure. Will be 40 years of ownership 7/8/20.

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