Or repair?
Couple guys in our group have issues with clusters, I suspect it has something to do with the plastic overlay with the wire traces are coming apart and trace is breaking.
Or repair?
Couple guys in our group have issues with clusters, I suspect it has something to do with the plastic overlay with the wire traces are coming apart and trace is breaking.
1985 LTD LX, Mach1 brakes, 17" Mopar police car wheels. 302, T5, 4.10s
1984 LTD station wagon, with 84GT nose, some might remember it as the old Dugan Racing station wagon.
1986 FHP coupe, stock shortblock, TW heads, Holley SMII intake, 4.88, T5Z
1990 Red LX, ported AFR heads, TFS-R box upper, weenie cam, 1 3/4 long accufabs, 3" exhaust, T5, 4.56
Just saw this last night on Graveyard Carz.
https://www.instrument-specialties.com/
I don't think he's cheap.
W
As always, "It ain't what you don't know that gets you, it's what you think you know that just ain't so."
Foxbody cars really only need the individual gauges refurbished. Several companies can do that.
Fox Body/3rd Gen MCA Gold Card Judge
84 SVO 24K miles, 85 Mclaren Capri Vert. 84 GT Turbo Vert.
88 Mclaren Mustang Vert 20K miles, 89 Mustang LX Sport Vert,
03 Mach 1 7900 miles, 74 Mustang II, 69 Mustang, 67 Mustang, 07 GT500,
14 Mustang CS/GT, 15 F150 FTX Tuscany, 16 F250 Crewcab, 67 Tbird 47K miles
There is the possibility of using window defroster repair "paint" which is merely conductive paint that you could use to repair broken traces. I think electronics shops sell similar paint products for circuit board repair. Hmmmm, David - aren't you the guy seen on some 50tussin videos?
Called Instrument Specialties, and he said that yes, they did work on Foxbody gauges, and it'd be $75 per small gauge. Didn't ask about Tach or Speedo.
79 Notchback 2.3 cyl to 347 & t-5 swap 65K
90 Hatch 5.0 T5 Donor for 79
67 Fastback full resto 289 + c4
86 GT 5.0 5-Speed T-Top - Gone
92 5.0 Auto Hatchback - Gone
89 5.0 5-speed Notch - Gone
Window defroster paint? Reminds me I think I'd seen copper tape in an electronics shop once.
Available on amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Tape-Adhesive...ateway&sr=8-24
Yeah, that's me.
1985 LTD LX, Mach1 brakes, 17" Mopar police car wheels. 302, T5, 4.10s
1984 LTD station wagon, with 84GT nose, some might remember it as the old Dugan Racing station wagon.
1986 FHP coupe, stock shortblock, TW heads, Holley SMII intake, 4.88, T5Z
1990 Red LX, ported AFR heads, TFS-R box upper, weenie cam, 1 3/4 long accufabs, 3" exhaust, T5, 4.56
Its possible to sand through the sealer on the printed overlays and solder.
Best repair I've done involved drilling a small hole in them and shove a wire through, adding a bit of wire to tie to and solder into on the back side then soldering everything into place when repairing those wire traces
On solid boards I usually just heat it with the solder iron tip until the sealer melts then apply solder to the trace or maybe solder in a bit of wire....
The problem I've had with the overlays is they flex too much. Its not that the solder lets go, usually the solder pulls the gold contract traces with it.
That problem is why I said put the wire through and solder it together. I think one could glue stuff after repair instead and get a good repair out of it that way. Toothpicks and glue should work, but it makes the overlay even more fragile than it already is in my experience.
Could always just ohm out everything and make your own new wiring to replace the printed overlay given how simple it actually is.
Thought so he he.
A guy at work has conductive paint (silver infused I think) that he uses for micro thermocouple fabrication & repair. Probably expensive but I know it can be bought through various electronics supply places.
https://www.digikey.com/product-deta...635-ND/6569362
search digikey.com on "conductive paint" to see more.
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