Close



Results 1 to 20 of 20
  1. #1
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Saskatchewan, Canada
    Posts
    814

    Default Engine bay painting guidance( what to paint and what to remove)

    Hey guys, I'm in the process of getting engine bay ready to paint and having troubles knowing what to remove and what I can leave in. I'm a little Leary about removing a ton of stuff and want to leave as much connected as I can. For example. Can I just paint brake master cylinder etc?. What about the mess in the back on the drivers side? Steering linkage? I dont know what a lot of the parts are so I'm not sure what I should paint or leave. I know to wrap harness and all connectors but other than that I'm kind of lost. Need some guidance. Keep in mind that I'm not looking for a show car so I don't want to get too crazy.
    Here is a pic of engine bay as it stands. It's been decreased and pressure washed. Will have to do some more fine cleaning and sanding though.
    Attachment 128001
    Last edited by Sask84gt; 05-26-2019 at 11:12 AM.
    Mustangs
    84.5 Gt T-top
    85 Gt

  2. #2
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Grand Junction, CO/RR TX
    Posts
    14,206

    Default

    My .02 is to remove as much as you are comfortable removing. Take a TON of pictures of everything. Even the stuff that you feel pretty sure about. Pictures will help you get it all put back together without the headaches and lack of memory of how and where things go.

    Personally, I would at least remove the M/C from the booster. You can leave the lines connected but get it out of the way enough to paint the booster and it will give you more clearance around the driver strut tower.

    Use aluminum foil to help mask all the different parts and pieces. Easy to use, will stay in place and much quicker and easier than paper and tape. If you can unbolt/unclip it, I would remove it, but only as much as you are comfortable with. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  3. #3
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Saskatchewan, Canada
    Posts
    814

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    My .02 is to remove as much as you are comfortable removing. Take a TON of pictures of everything. Even the stuff that you feel pretty sure about. Pictures will help you get it all put back together without the headaches and lack of memory of how and where things go.

    Personally, I would at least remove the M/C from the booster. You can leave the lines connected but get it out of the way enough to paint the booster and it will give you more clearance around the driver strut tower.

    Use aluminum foil to help mask all the different parts and pieces. Easy to use, will stay in place and much quicker and easier than paper and tape. If you can unbolt/unclip it, I would remove it, but only as much as you are comfortable with. Good Luck!
    Thanks Trey, what if I decide to just spray paint M/C? Will it hurt anything? I think that's what I'm most concerned with. Is the big round thing the m/c is connected to called the brake booster? Seems like that area has the most little things that I'm not sure if getting paint on will affect them. Also was going to use this paint to do it. Will this be alright or do I need higher temp enamel paint.
    Attachment 128013
    Mustangs
    84.5 Gt T-top
    85 Gt

  4. #4

    Default

    The master shouldn't need any high temp paint, but vht will be fine on it. I'd do what wraithracing says for sure with the pics. Alot of wires are easily removed with a simple plug. I remember a couple harnesses unplugged and most of my wires were gone. But if it's a tad intimidating.....be prepared to spend some time masking and wrapping. You can always re-loom or recover wires and thinner on some hoses if they get a little overspray on them

  5. #5
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Grand Junction, CO/RR TX
    Posts
    14,206

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Sask84gt View Post
    Thanks Trey, what if I decide to just spray paint M/C? Will it hurt anything? I think that's what I'm most concerned with. Is the big round thing the m/c is connected to called the brake booster? Seems like that area has the most little things that I'm not sure if getting paint on will affect them. Also was going to use this paint to do it. Will this be alright or do I need higher temp enamel paint.
    Attachment 128013
    Yes the large unit the M/C is bolted to with a vacuum line running to it is the brake booster/power assist. Paint will not hurt either nor most anything under the hood. Obviously pay attention to ground wires if removed as they should ground to bare metal. Many use a star washer that cuts into the paint to help get a good ground, but sometimes those are missing.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  6. #6
    FEP Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Sprague River, OR
    Posts
    757

    Default

    I like Saran (plastic wrap) over aluminum foil, but the foil works well to cover harnesses, etc. before spraying. I just did mine 2 years ago, but stripped everything out since it was a complete rebuild process. Just take your time, clean everything twice, and the results will be great.
    Join The Conversation
    http://www.youtube.com/basinmotorsports

    '86 Hatchback V6 / Auto Restomod (For Sale)

  7. #7
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Saskatchewan, Canada
    Posts
    814

    Default

    Do you guys think I should prime engine bay before painting? Will the primer stop rust? This is where I'm currently at.
    Attachment 128059
    Mustangs
    84.5 Gt T-top
    85 Gt

  8. #8
    FEP Power Member Broncojunkie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Barboursville, WV
    Posts
    1,773

    Default

    Definitely prime any bare metal with self-etching primer (only thing better would be a 2-part primer.)

  9. #9
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Saskatchewan, Canada
    Posts
    814

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Broncojunkie View Post
    Definitely prime any bare metal with self-etching primer (only thing better would be a 2-part primer.)
    Ok thanks, what if the paint I'm putting on has primer built in?
    Attachment 128060
    Mustangs
    84.5 Gt T-top
    85 Gt

  10. #10
    FEP Power Member Broncojunkie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Barboursville, WV
    Posts
    1,773

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Sask84gt View Post
    Ok thanks, what if the paint I'm putting on has primer built in?
    Attachment 128060
    To be honest, I would highly recommend using a 2-part paint. Since you're doing it in black (no metallics, pearls, etc.) this is an easy one. Eastwood and at least one other company, iirc, makes a 2-part aerosol. It costs a little more but believe me...MUCH better than any single part. You want plenty of protection in the engine bay. You have high heat, oils, harsh cleaners, etc and the engine bay doesn't get regular coats of wax like the exterior does.

  11. #11
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    SE Michigan
    Posts
    5,141

    Default

    The can should state on the front that it is one step self priming.
    It is an epoxy resin coating. Prep well and let it cure per directions.
    Adding additional layers under it may affect its intended results. Less grip?
    Your call.
    Have used this stuff for years, no primer, and is very durable.
    The non gloss satin black version looks great.

  12. #12
    FEP Power Member Broncojunkie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Barboursville, WV
    Posts
    1,773

    Default

    Name:  Screenshot_20190601-174815_Samsung Internet.jpg
Views: 166
Size:  34.1 KB

  13. #13
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Saskatchewan, Canada
    Posts
    814

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gr79 View Post
    The can should state on the front that it is one step self priming.
    It is an epoxy resin coating. Prep well and let it cure per directions.
    Adding additional layers under it may affect its intended results. Less grip?
    Your call.
    Have used this stuff for years, no primer, and is very durable.
    The non gloss satin black version looks great.
    You talking about the same stuff I posted? Vht roll bar and chassis paint?
    Mustangs
    84.5 Gt T-top
    85 Gt

  14. #14
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    SE Michigan
    Posts
    5,141

    Default

    Yes VHT Roll Bar & Chassis satin black SP671 (USA no French on label).
    Have an empty can right here on the desk.
    Can says for recoats after 1 hour, wait 7 days cure before recoating.
    Have also used the Epoxy Paint version with the strut pic on can.
    I think they are the same. The SDS is the same on both.
    May have changed the formula to 'no cure' since last purchase few years ago.

    https://www.vhtpaint.com/high-heat/v...-chassis-paint
    https://www.vhtpaint.com/specialty/v...-weather-paint

  15. #15
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Saskatchewan, Canada
    Posts
    814

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gr79 View Post
    Yes VHT Roll Bar & Chassis satin black SP671 (USA no French on label).
    Have an empty can right here on the desk.
    Can says for recoats after 1 hour, wait 7 days cure before recoating.
    Have also used the Epoxy Paint version with the strut pic on can.
    I think they are the same. The SDS is the same on both.
    May have changed the formula to 'no cure' since last purchase few years ago.

    https://www.vhtpaint.com/high-heat/v...-chassis-paint
    https://www.vhtpaint.com/specialty/v...-weather-paint
    Yup same stuff as what I have. In Canada we have to put French as well as English on everything lol
    Mustangs
    84.5 Gt T-top
    85 Gt

  16. #16

    Default

    Any other pictures you got of the car. Would love to see what your working on.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  17. #17
    FEP Supporter
    82GTforME's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Alberta, Canada
    Posts
    4,855

    Default

    When I redid our engine bay, I use the Eastwood Rust Convertor aerosol in conjunction with the Rust Encapsulator. Both products can be primed or painted over. A small bit of extra security for rust. Would be sad to see rust bleed through in a couple of years. I could only find one place in Calgary that carries the Eastwood line but there are other similar products our there too.

    I also used a two part primer before base coat and clear coat to finish my engine bay.

    I have also used the same black chassis paint on misc. suspension parts both with and without primer (control arms, sway bars, drive shaft) and they seem to hold up good either way. Make sure your substrate is free of oils so whatever you spray sticks good
    Quote Originally Posted by Travis T View Post
    I think this is my favorite car on the site right now.
    Quote Originally Posted by BLUECRAPI
    This is the best thread on the internet.
    Darran
    1982-1C (Black) GT T-Top:http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...he-Road-Thread
    1986-9L (Oxford White) SVO: http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...d-did-1986-SVO
    1979 (85:Tangerine) Coupe (my son's): http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...gerine-Machine
    1979 (3F:Light Medium Blue) Coupe (one day to be my other son's!) http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...um-Blue-Bomber!

  18. #18
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    SE Michigan
    Posts
    5,141

    Default

    "In Canada we have to put French as well as English on everything lol"

    Yah here its English and Spanish. Can. money exchange no big deal, although may be very strange elsewhere in US.
    Living near Windsor, Canada life is a part of Detroit. It is like a twin city, different less dramatic lifestyle there.
    Canada hockey and baseball fans regularly attend games here. Plus both sides of the river have casinos.
    Many many truckloads of auto parts, goods, commuters, cross over every day on the international bridges.

    Have tried POR, Chassis Saver. Being a DD, cannot justify unimpressive expensive material that needs renew in a few years.
    Found best to use VHT, Dupl, RustO as sacrificial coating layers due to climate and harsh road conditions.
    Thick waxy Ford SuperSeal and Ziebart are still on my car after 40 years. In the engine bay too.
    The untreated areas or areas that were removed for repairs have to be watched for rust.
    When fuel tank was replaced, peeled back some of the stuff off the old tank.
    There was no rust. Metal was really in good shape. Untreated areas under the straps were bad.

    I use the VHT on chassis, subframe, suspension, new and touch ups. Lots of regular satin black touchup elsewhere..
    The new tank's weld seam is showing surface rust after 9 months. Superseal or VHT is going on soon.
    Nothing will last without some prep.

  19. #19
    FEP Senior Member Sask84gt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Saskatchewan, Canada
    Posts
    814

    Default

    I'm thinking of ordering some rust encapsulator from Eastwood. Can I just spray the whole engine bay with that and then paint it or should I just spot spray where rust is?

    Also as a side question. If I'm painting my engine bay black should I be using the same color of black for all the trim as well? Air vent cowl, front grill, side fins, trim around windows etc? I planned in using SEM trim black on all that stuff. I am not opposed to using it for engine bay instead of the vht.
    Last edited by Sask84gt; 06-02-2019 at 05:57 PM.
    Mustangs
    84.5 Gt T-top
    85 Gt

  20. #20
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Grand Junction, CO/RR TX
    Posts
    14,206

    Default

    Any of your rust conversion products are designed for applying over rusty metal. Eastwoods, POR, etc. all should be applied directly to rusty metal for the products to work as intended. They are not designed for non rusted metal and honestly generally don't work as well, stick as well, as other products do over non rusted metal.

    I am assuming your Mustang is being painted black if you are doing the engine bay black. Or at least originally Ford painted the engine bay the same color as the exterior body. I know some paint engine bays black, no matter what the exterior color is. Personally I am not a fan of black engine bays on Non black cars, but anyway getting off subject.

    If you have the ability and equipment to spray the engine bay with a spray gun, I personally would use a 2 part Epoxy for the engine bay. Epoxy is essentially an adhesive to it sticks to EVERYTHING very well and works great for under hood, chassis, under body, etc. that can be hard to clean, sand, prep well. My plan with my 82 RS is a light grey 2 part Epoxy primer, then top coat with a 2 part urethane single stage body color sprayed over the Epoxy during its re-coat window for my engine bay, under body, etc. I haven't made a final decision if I will go with a full gloss on the urethane or with a Satin/Matte finish.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •