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  1. #1

    Default 1982 GT will only crank after honking the horn.

    I have an 82 GT that I'm trying to get up and running. Car ran great a little less than a year ago when my buddy had it. Since then I bought it off him and it has sat for about 9 months without being cranked. I don't know what he did to it, but you have to hit the horn once or twice in order to get it to turn over. When you tap the horn, the needle in the rpm gauge jumps. Since the car has been sitting, it won't run at all, but that's most likely a fuel issue that I know how to fix. My dilemma is the car was turning over a few days ago with the stupid horn trick, but now, even with a battery that is fully charged and with the horn tapping, it won't even turn over enough for me to get the car running with carb cleaner and gas. Anyone have any idea what the deal is with the horn beeping causing the rpm needle to jump and having to be honked in order to get the car to fired up, or why the car isn't turning over at all now? I'm at a loss at this point. Could definitely use any help I can get on this. Thanks.

  2. #2
    FEP Power Member
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    Sounds like a possible grounding problem at the starter solenoid.
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  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by KevinK View Post
    Sounds like a possible grounding problem at the starter solenoid.
    So I checked out the starter solenoid and it's got the positive battery cable attached, a cable which I'm assuming goes to the starter since it seems to head in that direction, a small red cable/plug attached to one of the smaller connections on the solenoid, and then nothing attached to the other small connection on the solenoid. Is there supposed to be something on that? I'll try and attach a photo.Name:  IMG_2871.jpg
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  4. #4
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    Battery terminals clean and tight? Turn on the headlights, check to see if they are full brightness, see if they dim when trying to crank.

  5. #5
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    There are several possibilities as to what the problem is. First question is does this car have any type of alarm/security/anti-theft system installed? I ask because there are systems that require you to turn on or operate a system or two before the car will crank or be able to start. Simple things like turn on the headlights, honk the horn, flip a switch, etc. That could be an easy explanation for the problem. Just a thought to check and verify.
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  6. #6
    FEP Member SECESH's Avatar
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    The solenoid grounds through its mounting doesn't it?
    Married to the same Mustang since 03/29/82

  7. #7
    FEP Member SECESH's Avatar
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    Many Ford solenoids will have that fourth connector. I think it provides more juice to the coil at starting on the point type ignition systems. Not used on the newer stuff. However the trigger wire from the ign sw will attach and then it won't crank. Attach to the wrong stud I mean.
    Married to the same Mustang since 03/29/82

  8. #8

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    Could the solenoid itself be bad?
    Last edited by Erock; 05-19-2019 at 11:00 AM.

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    There are several possibilities as to what the problem is. First question is does this car have any type of alarm/security/anti-theft system installed? I ask because there are systems that require you to turn on or operate a system or two before the car will crank or be able to start. Simple things like turn on the headlights, honk the horn, flip a switch, etc. That could be an easy explanation for the problem. Just a thought to check and verify.
    There is no alarm system as far as I know unless someone writes it that way on their own as their own little way of keeping it from being stolen. I know the guy I got it from didn't so guess it could have been a previous owner.

  10. #10

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    I'm
    Quote Originally Posted by darkd0r View Post
    Battery terminals clean and tight? Turn on the headlights, check to see if they are full brightness, see if they dim when trying to crank.
    The lights do dim a little when I turn the key and try to crank it.

  11. #11

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    What happens if you take a metal pair of pliers and touch both sides of the solenoid? Obviously make sure car is out of gear and yes, it will spark some but you will not experience any voltage shock or anything. And also obviously, you can't use pliers that have rubber coated grips. Just plain old metal standard pliers.

  12. #12
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Short from +12 cable to the signal lead that tells the solenoid to kick on

    make sure you have a solid ground block to body — the flexi cables go bad and look just fine. My answer on my son’s 86 was to put another cable on at the front housing on the motor and bolt it up solid to the K member. Then I took the 4 ECU grounds and ran them directly to the negative battery cable end. I added a loop connector and another nut so you tighten up the post then the ECU ground bundle

    if your ignition switch is separating that would explain it

    I had it once where my fender had a poor ground and my solenoid wouldn’t engage until I jumpered from its case to the negative terminal on the battery, was the chassis ground strap

    I had a starter a while ago that would never crank with the ignition switch but it would with shorting the solenoid. It turned out to be a current flow problem. I cranked it at night and I saw sparks by the starter. The housing where it bolts up to the bellhousing was cracked and caused a weak ground.

    Hsve had the same behavior caused by loose starter bolts too

  13. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by erratic50 View Post
    Short from +12 cable to the signal lead that tells the solenoid to kick on

    make sure you have a solid ground block to body — the flexi cables go bad and look just fine. My answer on my son’s 86 was to put another cable on at the front housing on the motor and bolt it up solid to the K member. Then I took the 4 ECU grounds and ran them directly to the negative battery cable end. I added a loop connector and another nut so you tighten up the post then the ECU ground bundle

    if your ignition switch is separating that would explain it

    I had it once where my fender had a poor ground and my solenoid wouldn’t engage until I jumpered from its case to the negative terminal on the battery, was the chassis ground strap

    I had a starter a while ago that would never crank with the ignition switch but it would with shorting the solenoid. It turned out to be a current flow problem. I cranked it at night and I saw sparks by the starter. The housing where it bolts up to the bellhousing was cracked and caused a weak ground.

    Hsve had the same behavior caused by loose starter bolts too
    Cool, thanks for the info. I'll check that ignition switch tomorrow since they're apparently known to go bad. If that's not the issue I'll start checking the +12 cable and go from there.

  14. #14

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    Looking at your picture and labeling. If you are correct, your starter and battery cables are flipped. Battery cable goes to the left side of the solenoid (if upright, turn your picture 90 degrees to the left), and starter goes to the right. I guess it might work backwards but I have never tried or seen it. Starter wire generates an electrical field which pulls the solenoid into the on position.

    Just reverse them and try it.

    Kenny

  15. #15

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    I should clarify, move all the wires from one side (battery cable and smaller wires) to the other upper side and move the starter to the lower side. Leave the start wire (red cap) where it is.

    Good luck

  16. #16
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    This reminds me of one biker's Harley motorcycle.
    Bar parking lot, 3am. Engine would not start.
    Until someone said "The cops are coming".
    Zoom went the motor and the biker out the back drive.

    Or like a train engineer toots horn 2x short, meaning train is releasing brakes and proceeding.

    Make sure the solenoid is tight to fender or is grounded good.
    Ford solenoids either have two little studs (early) or one (later). All have 2 big studs.
    Last edited by gr79; 05-23-2019 at 01:09 PM.

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