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  1. #1
    FEP Power Member mcb82gt's Avatar
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    Default low friction oem ball joints

    Been reading some threads on here about suspension. Lots of good reading.

    Seems the low friction OEM fox balljoints are highly recommended. How would I accomplish this recommendation from MaxMotorsports?
    Mike

    Now stang-less.

    88 Cougar 5.0

  2. #2
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Default

    I personally have never had an issue with ball joint retention in the stock control arms. With that said, I always take care when pressing out the old ball joints to ensure I don't damage or enlarge the opening. There is a lip/flange on the opening for the ball joint, you can use a punch and a hammer to lightly tap that lip in towards the center to shrink the inner diameter of the opening to ensure a good interference fit.

    I just pressed a set of the OEM SN95 ball joints from Maximum Motorsports into the control arms of my 82 RS. No issues and everything fits just as it should. I do use and recommend the "Green" Loctite just as an additional safety measure, but otherwise I didn't feel the need to make any changes to the opening for the new ball joints. The old joints pressed out just fine after using some penetrating lube to help break them loose. The new joint had a nice interference fit even after sitting in the freezer for 24 hours before the install (which is how I install all my ball joints, bushings, etc. when possible).

    Hope that helps and good luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Ongoing RestoModification
    1984 SVO Awaiting Restoration
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Underway
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  3. #3
    FEP Power Member mcb82gt's Avatar
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    Default

    Thank you. I was hoping didn't have to weld metal or something. I cant do that. LOL
    Mike

    Now stang-less.

    88 Cougar 5.0

  4. #4

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    I had a problem with retention. I solved it by buying new control arms. This was after I had done a bunch of work to replace the bushings in the old ones too.

    The balljoint hole has a lip on the bottom though. I guess it's possible you could reduce the size of the hole by pounding on all of that lip with a hammer... Like with a bearing race installer or something.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  5. #5
    FEP Power Member mcb82gt's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post

    I just pressed a set of the OEM SN95 ball joints from Maximum Motorsports into the control arms of my 82 RS. No issues and everything fits just as it should.
    What spindles are you using? Will those ball joints/spindle (87+ V8 ), tighten down without the nut backing off? Thank you.
    Mike

    Now stang-less.

    88 Cougar 5.0

  6. #6
    FEP Power Member mcb82gt's Avatar
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    Follow up for prosperity

    Emailed TRW not much help really. JBJ875 and JBJ869 (Fox style).

    Basically said "no grease zerk = low friction design"
    Mike

    Now stang-less.

    88 Cougar 5.0

  7. #7

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    That should be basically true.

    With a metal on metal ball joint (high friction) the job of the grease fitting is to allow new grease to pump the older grease out, which is filled with ground up metal out of the joint.

    With a metal on plastic ball joint, there are no ground up particles in the joint, so there is no reason to replace the grease as the joint is sealed.
    Jack Hidley
    Maximum Motorsports Tech Support

  8. #8
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mcb82gt View Post
    What spindles are you using? Will those ball joints/spindle (87+ V8 ), tighten down without the nut backing off? Thank you.
    Sorry I missed this before. I am using the 87+ V8 spindles. Although it doesn't matter. Even the 79-86 spindles can use the SN95 joint. There is plenty of thread engagement for the nylon lock nut to do it's job. You can always add Loctite for additional peace of mind.

    Quote Originally Posted by mcb82gt View Post
    Follow up for prosperity

    Emailed TRW not much help really. JBJ875 and JBJ869 (Fox style).

    Basically said "no grease zerk = low friction design"
    That's good to know. The only thing I will say is that just because they are low friction design, doesn't mean they are the same quality as the OEM Ford parts. Jack can speak to this better than I can. But I bought some Motorcraft balljoints a few years ago thinking they were OEM Ford just in the Motorcraft box. They were not and were not anything like the quality of the OEM Ford parts. I am not saying the TRW joints are bad or not worth a try, just stating that although low friction they may not compare to the OEM Ford.

    In regards to the post above about retention of the ball joints. The lip around the ball joint opening is a metal flange that is just the control arm metal bent over @ 90 degrees. When you press ball joints out, that lip can deform or flare out depending on how well and long the previous ball joint was installed. You can use a metal punch or drift to slightly shrink the inner diameter of the ball joint opening to provide a more interference fit. I recommend being careful as you can make the situation work if you deform the circular opening. It doesn't take much to fix the issue. Often in my case there will be just one area that seems to have flared out and working on that section will correct the problem and the ball joints will install and hold just fine. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Ongoing RestoModification
    1984 SVO Awaiting Restoration
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Underway
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

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