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  1. #1

    Default Tire for low rpm. Poor man OD

    I am running 3.31 gears on my futura with a 235/60r14. 25.1" tire. Thinking of putting 235/75/15 on rear for long distance trips. Those are 28.2"
    Anyone ever do this? Would bring rpm 300 at 60mph.

  2. #2

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    hmmm.... sometimes you end up using more fuel trying to run the engine with load at low rpm. I assume you mean it would reduce the rpm by 300 at 60 and not that the car would be at 300 rpm...
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    K&N filter in a stock dual snorkel, GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721 intake, MSD 8456 Dist., MSD 8227 coil
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers, catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals
    Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates and strut tower brace, 3.73 rear, dura grip (both Yukon)
    Ford Performance Springs, Firehawk A/S 225/55r16 on LMR TRX r390 wheels (street)
    Federal 595 rs-rr 245/40r17 and 255/40r17 on OE cobra r wheels (race)
    AOD rebuilt with a 6 clutch direct drum, Koline steels stacked with 8 clutches, Kevlar band, superior shift kit, new torque converter. --Everything else stock and fully functional.

  3. #3

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    With P235/60R14 (25.10") I get 2658rpm (@ 60MPH), and with P235/75R15 (28.88") I get 2311rpm (@ 60MPH), so yeah, about a 300rpm reduction... but will that diameter of a tire fit okay in the wheel well?... that's hiking the rear end up about 2", and your speedometer is going to be reading slow too unless you find out how many drive gear teeth are on the transmission's output shaft, and change the driven gear on the speedometer cable... and, x2 what "emerygt350" said above about load and rpm...
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  4. #4
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Hmms.... So 235/75/15's are pickup, bronco, blazer, suburban, and van tires back in the day. 28.9" x 9.3"

    I ran a 225/70/15 with 10 hole wheels on my 86GT once upon a time. (27.4" x 8.9") They just barely fit. I used them because I needed tires and that was the set I had around from my Galaxie 500 that I sold. If I hit a good solid bump the rear tires rubbed inside the wheel wells.

    I know if you go wider they will rub even more frequently. If you go taller, pretty much forget it unless you add ride height to the car.

    I know a 235/60/15 (26.1 x 9.3") clears perfectly fine out back on stock 10 hole wheels too.

    I also know from experience that going much wider or taller you'll have to pay attention to what you are doing.

    245/45/17's (25.7 x 9.6") on 1994 17" tribar rims fit nicely after a 5-lug conversion out back.

    The best RPM calculator I know of is
    https://www.blocklayer.com/rpm-geareng.aspx

    A decent tire size calculator
    https://www.blocklayer.com/tire-size-calculator.aspx

    From memory .... I believe a stock T5 has ratios as follows:
    3.35:1 1st
    1.99:1 2nd
    1.34:1 3rd
    1:1 4th
    0.68:1 5th

    T5Z
    2.95:1 1st
    1.94:1 2nd
    1.31:1 3rd
    1:1 4th
    0.63:1 5th

    There are 3rd party gear set considerations in the T5 trans tech space too. Astro and Gforce offer gear sets very similar to T5Z ratios on 1-4 and then let you pick a 0.63 or a 0.59:1 OD. They also offer some other combinations as well. 1st gear ratios as high as 2.46 last I looked.

    I would probably gravitate towards a different transmission gear set or a different rear gear before a different tire size in most circumstances

    My 85 Saleen build is setup with 3.55:1 rear gears, and a Gforce T5 with 0.59:1 OD. 225/50/16 tires (24.9" x 8.9") It will end up with around the same cruising RPM as a 3.08 with 0.68:1 OD....

    Since you're going to extremes on tire sizes I can assume extremes in other places are a consideration. I've went as far as 235/60/15 tires with 2.73:1 and a 0.63:1.

    That works really well with a stock 86 intake, but if you start down the path of other intakes and aftermarket shorties and other things that give up low end torque you may find you don't like it.

    I have two cars done with way. Stock intake heads, headers, etc, with timing bumped to 13 degrees and a VM1 ECU it likes it. Gets around 28-31 MPG at 80 MPH even with a head wind. Car will go WAY faster than anyone would ever want to drive it......

    The one with the Typhoon EFI with a little bit of cam and BBK equal shorties gest to where for the first time ever a good sized hill will pull down that 5.0L traveling below 75 with a head wind. Granted that same car will run 60 MPH in 1st and 90 in 2nd, etc. So this one goes even faster.

  5. #5

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    I'm looking to put P215/70R15's all around on the ten holes on my car, because that will bring the speedometer reading, with the 3.08 8.8 in it, and the 7-tooth drive gear and blue 15-tooth driven gear that's already there on the cable, to a near exact speedometer reading.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  6. #6
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    They will badly rub in front. Hits the fender extension towards the front bumper.

    215/65/15 rubs due to height.

    235/60/15 does a little too for the exact same reason, BTW.

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by Walking-Tall View Post
    I'm looking to put P215/70R15's all around on the ten holes on my car, because that will bring the speedometer reading, with the 3.08 8.8 in it, and the 7-tooth drive gear and blue 15-tooth driven gear that's already there on the cable, to a near exact speedometer reading.
    I can only assume you are joking.
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    K&N filter in a stock dual snorkel, GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721 intake, MSD 8456 Dist., MSD 8227 coil
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers, catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals
    Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates and strut tower brace, 3.73 rear, dura grip (both Yukon)
    Ford Performance Springs, Firehawk A/S 225/55r16 on LMR TRX r390 wheels (street)
    Federal 595 rs-rr 245/40r17 and 255/40r17 on OE cobra r wheels (race)
    AOD rebuilt with a 6 clutch direct drum, Koline steels stacked with 8 clutches, Kevlar band, superior shift kit, new torque converter. --Everything else stock and fully functional.

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by emerygt350 View Post
    I can only assume you are joking.
    Why?... oh, oops, sorry, a typo... "blue 15-tooth" should have said blue 16-tooth...




    FWIW, there are P235/60R15's on the car now, and the only rubbing that happens is the passenger front inner sidewall against the sub-frame rail upon turning right, due to the bonehead referenced elsewhere here on the forum who installed the rack & pinion off-center.
    Last edited by Walking-Tall; 05-03-2019 at 10:51 AM.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  9. #9

    Red face

    I am at 2850 at 70 mph with 235/6014. 25.1
    With a 28.2" tire would be 2550. 2500 is about right for my cam . I have to drive 2.9-3k to almost keep up with traffic...
    I like the acceleration of my 3.31 gears tho.

  10. #10

    Default

    Your speedometer's off about 5mph if the tach says 2850rpm @ 70mph with 25.1" tires... it should be ~3100rpm, IF we're talking about your top transmission gear is 1:1 (C4, C5, C6, top loader?... it can't be an AOD or T5 with your figures...). With 28.9" tires (your stated 235/75R15's), it would be revving ~2700rpm @ 70mph. Again, yeah, about a 300rpm drop. These are both comparatively high cruising rpm's, so whether 3100 or 2700 probably wouldn't have much of any affect.


    As to the obvious fuel efficiency issue (or noise, or miles accumulated, or ... ?) you're here for... I noticed elsewhere on the forum, in regards to ignition timing and advance, that you mentioned, "I have mine set to -2deg retarded inital any more will ping in 2 and 3. I have only 15 deg of mechanical advance and my advance does not start till 3k plus. I chalk it up to aftermarket balancer prob not right who knows and who cares."
    - You, apparently, care, considering going to extremes of rear tire diameter changes for a "poor man OD". Unnecessary, and more expense than necessary, unless there's a pile of a variety of tires and rims close by. A couple pair of different size primary main jets, to dial in what should be the primary main circuits by your stated rpm levels (the primary boosters are what should be in action), costs a helluva lot less than wheel changes and speedometer driven gears to properly re-calibrate the speedometer for accurate readings.
    - But, probably more important in your situation, is sorting out the balancer and setting and knowing ignition advance (and an accurate known initial setting... find #1's true TDC, degree the balancer, re-clock the pointer, whatever is necessary...), and advance rate, and vacuum advance behavior, etc, would pay surprising dividends in fuel mileage. If there's less than good running all around an apparent certain rpm that is apparently "right" for some camshaft, there's tuning needed... firstly ignition-wise, with, depending on the mystery camshaft, 10-20 degrees BTDC initial, about 26 degrees BTDC at 3000rpm, and anywhere from 32-38 at 6000rpm (this all, crankshaft degrees, (initial +) mechanical/centrifugal, with the vacuum advance disconnected and the vacuum line plugged... you do have a vacuum advance, right?... and with that, especially with a grumpy camshaft, vacuum advance connected to full manifold vacuum, and only adding 10-12 degrees (a vacuum "can" for a 1974 F100 with a 390 has a "6" stamped on it's stem, meaning 12-degrees (crankshaft) gets added))... and then carburetor-wise...

    IMHO, RPM is not the enemy of fuel efficiency. Load levels, with widely differing vehicle combinations, without tuning for it, is the enemy of fuel efficiency. With the rpm's you're dealing with, your engine should be laughing at the little load it should be experiencing, not even breaking a sweat, load-wise, and ought to be (could be) getting very good fuel mileage.

    Or, toss some 235/75R15's out back, and use your tachometer and calculated rpm's for velocities, ignoring the speedometer.


    The math (in the spreadsheet I use), garnered from a Ford Motorsport catalog years ago:

    Tire diameter (in inches) = ((tire mm width x 0.03937) x (aspect ratio / 100)) x 2 + rim diameter inches

    Tire revolutions per mile = 5280 / ((pi x rear tire diameter) / 12)

    RPM @ MPH = (MPH x transmission gear ratio x rear axle ratio x 336) / rear tire diameter

    Necessary speedometer driven (cable) gear = (# of teeth of drive gear on transmission tail shaft x rear axle ratio x rear tire revs per mile) / 1000

    Last edited by Walking-Tall; 05-04-2019 at 03:51 PM.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  11. #11

    Default

    I dont know why I said 70mph it is 2850 at 60mph with gps.
    I was showing 140kph, then put a different
    Speedo drive gear from an ltd and now shows 120kph at 100kph actual with gps. Ordered the correct one to show 100kph from summit.
    As far as timing. Yeah it drove me nuts trying to figure out why on the balancer(aftermarket powerbond or whatever it is called) I could never run 15 initial it would ping winging the throttle with no vac hooked up and the advance springs tight as hell and the tabs bent to the max to keep from advancing.
    Someday I have to buy or make a pistion stop and all will be answered.
    My compression could be 11 or 12 to 1 who the heck knows thr engine builder could have messed up! Like it will shake your fillings out on a cold start etc.
    Dont need to popcorn me dude. I am 42 years old and have been wrenching as a career for 24 years rebuilding diffs trannys, 15 and 16 litre engines etc.
    The thing about mechanics is no one can know everything all the time. There is always something new to learn or figure out which keeps it interesting. So I am not mechanically retarded.
    I was just asking how tall of tires people have run on a fox.
    I know excatly how that will effect speed and rpm and how my speedo would change. I calibrate customers speedos at work with gears on the speedo cables, dip switches, and programming. It is not a big deal at all.
    Thanks for your advice about the taller tires and the holley info you gave me. I am NOT being sarcastic saying that.
    Some projects I have done were building a ffr cobra to currently putting a 5.9 12v into a 70 lincoln.
    Maybe I need to reread my posts and type slower with my thumbs on my phone.. sorry for wasting your time.

  12. #12

    Default

    Yes I am running a crane cams adjustable vac advance on ported. Thought or trying Manifold but never have.(thats a great debate as well sometimes!) Lol
    I get 23mpgIMPERIAL on the highway.
    I know it has almost zero load was thinking to drop rpm so it is now screaming as much on the highway. The engine probably does not mind it being balanced etc and as a kid I drove 75mph all day in my 79 with a c4 302. Just was kindbof annoying.
    Should have built up an aod. I built the c4 myself with a broader performance 500hp kit(more clutchpacks etc) C servo blah blah and a transgo stage 2. Also the diff myself with motorsport 3.31 gears, kevlar clutch kit and new bearings of course.
    I wish I would have went with a aod and built that up and ran a 3.55 rear gear. Too late now as would waste too much $$$.

  13. #13

    Default

    Good stuff

    Put the popcorn emoticon because watching when I stop by here, with interest, because I dig the threads that get into details, and just tryin' to be helpful.

    How tall a tire have I run on a Fox ---> Rear - P275/60R15 (27.99"), on ten holes, on both a 1983 V6 Cougar, and a 1986 5.0L Thunderbird with 3.73's and an AOD. Pretty sure folks have run that much rear tire on Fox Mustangs too, though maybe with some quarter panel fender lip rollin', dunno, lol...

    The available adjustable vacuum advance units are great for adjusting the start/finish and/or the rate of advance. Are you able to adjust the amount of vacuum advance with that one? Connecting vacuum advance to manifold vacuum helps to smooth the idle of an engine with a wilder than mild camshaft, make able to close often too-open primary throttle blades exposing too much transfer slot, etc... ditto with a PCV valve in the picture...

    The AOD in my '86 Thunderbird, with shift kit and P275/60R15 rear tires, was pretty entertaining with 3.73's for acceleration through 1st and 2nd gear, lol, but only spun about 1800rpm @ 60mph in OD, and so really was nothing to write home about fuel mileage-wise... even with it's EFI, I always thought 4.30 or more rear gear would have probably been more efficient on the highway, because of 2000+rpm and less load, etc, etc.
    Last edited by Walking-Tall; 05-04-2019 at 04:35 PM.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  14. #14

    Default

    I average between 25 and 28 highway when my cars running 65-75mph with my 86 thunderbird. Its got 2.73 gears and sits about 1600rpm at 65 and about 1800rpm at 75mph. I did run a 275/60r15 on 10 holes which is a 28" tall tire and it added about a 10% reduction in rpms, and it did improve gas mileage slightly, but I doubt it was more then 1 or 2 mpg highway.

    Weight really doesnt effect mpg unless you are constantly speeding up and slowing down. If you just set the cruise and do a relative speed, the size and weight of the tires isn't going to matter.
    2 1986 cougars (both 4 eyed and 5.0)
    1 1987 cougar

  15. #15
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Default

    A real poor mans overdrive is to THM 200 the gear ratios with a 2.92 low and 1.64 intermediate. Then go for taller Explorer tires and maybee a nunerically lower axle ratio.

    The AOD with the stock 2350 higher stall converter and the non standard higher shift points can be duplicated in part by widening the C4 ratio spread. GM with the three speed 200 THM and Ford with switch pitch Escort ATX based on the old Dynadrive GM system; the were good ways to avoid an extra gear set.

    The C4 IMHO isn't Fords best auto, that title goes to tthe Bullnose 429 Toploader and the 4w70, the AOD has some seriously bat **** weirdness going on, and the Nissan made Maxima L24 overdrive from the 83 910 based rear drive car fits to the old alloy case Granada 250 4.1 liter Jatco.

    The parts back up for the C4 is greater, and time ferreting out the wide ratio set will help.

    Thats what a Poor Mans OD is...not tires.

    Love the 5.0 and the smart management. Sorry, I dont do litres, aluminium, imperial MPG...I do when I talk to my Canadian relatives...

  16. #16

    Default

    Thanks for the info everyone.
    I am not sure on the amount of extra vac advance can be changed with that unit will find out soon after more timing tuning etc.
    I have read to set the secondary up 1 to 1 1/2 turns open with longer duration cams.
    My low idle goes from 800 almost dying out to 1100 when hot.
    Not sure wtf is going on. I set the high idle and choke and was 1200 at startup and a kick down dropped to 800 and all good. Now no high idle and when hot idles high.
    I tried brake clean around carb manifold etc looking for vac leaks and also pinching off brake booster and shift modulator etc. All no change. 9inches i gear revved up to 1300rpm in neutral goes to 14inches vac.
    Maybe my high idle screw is hanging up the primary throttle when hot.
    I tried grabbing the primary by hand and yank it back closed and will idle down some like to 800 as curb idle not even touching the linkage. But it feels like I am bending the linkage.lol

    Only does this very hot.. of course diesels when shut off in pqrk as idle to high and pulls fuel in.

  17. #17

    Default

    Don't know what carburetor or setup you have. Just like there's no such thing as anything that can just come out of the box, on, and work in any and all situations, with the so many varied combinations people put together, there's always some fine tuning needed... or you live with ho-hum or mediocre at best function. Adjust the secondary idle speed screw (very minimally at first, like 1/4 turn from fully shut/sticking in the bores) to whatever keeps the primary transfer slots exposed about square below the primary throttle plates at the desired idle speed your combination wants/likes.

    Sounds like maybe the fast idle arm/screw is sticking or sometimes not "kicking off"...
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  18. #18

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Walking-Tall View Post
    Don't know what carburetor or setup you have. Just like there's no such thing as anything that can just come out of the box, on, and work in any and all situations, with the so many varied combinations people put together, there's always some fine tuning needed... or you live with ho-hum or mediocre at best function. Adjust the secondary idle speed screw (very minimally at first, like 1/4 turn from fully shut/sticking in the bores) to whatever keeps the primary transfer slots exposed about square below the primary throttle plates at the desired idle speed your combination wants/likes.

    Sounds like maybe the fast idle arm/screw is sticking or sometimes not "kicking off"...
    Its a 4160. Vac secondary, 600cfm, single pump, single feed ,auto choke, two cornor idle speed screws. Bought new in 96 before they had street avengers etc. Then ran to break in a 289 I had rebuilt for a 68 mustang when I was 19 then sat for 24 years and then I rebuilt it a year ago for my futura.
    You have to remove the carb to set the secondary butterflies.

  19. #19

    Default

    Good, so a LIST-1850 or LIST-80457 or equivalent. Count yourself blessed with an older one, because I have seen enough and had to fix and re-calibrate even brand new "Street Avengers" and other shiny/pretty supposed "new and improved" Holley (and clones) garbage now for a couple of lifetimes, lol...

    Yes, or take the secondary idle speed screw out and flip it around so the screwdriver tip end is facing up.

    You've mentioned low manifold vacuum numbers... so, curiosity - is this a 302, and how much camshaft intake duration @ 0.050" are we talking about?
    Last edited by Walking-Tall; 05-05-2019 at 08:29 PM.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  20. #20

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Walking-Tall View Post
    Good, so a LIST-1850 or LIST-80457 or equivalent. Count yourself blessed with an older one, because I have seen enough and had to fix and re-calibrate even brand new "Street Avengers" and other shiny/pretty supposed "new and improved" Holley (and clones) garbage now for a couple of lifetimes, lol...

    Yes, or take the secondary idle speed screw out and flip it around so the screwdriver tip end is facing up.

    You've mentioned low manifold vacuum numbers... so, curiosity - is this a 302, and how much camshaft intake duration @ 0.050" are we talking about?
    It is a older holley for sure. Its a xe274h flat tappet. 230 duration. Not a very wild cam but agressive ramps (great to make sewing machine noises with the melljng lifters)
    The engine is a 302 bored .30( see I did not call it a 306 or whatever the F people talk about these days.
    The compression is high as the builder said it is 10.2:1. As was taken to a machine shop for balancing, torque plate boring and whatnot with a rpm air gap intake. All set up to run around 6k or so. I have found from 3500-6000 with the c4 the tach needle comes up pretty fast and have to watch it and shift early(column shift to keep it factory looking) it shifts by itself from 1-2 at 6k but 2-3 maybe 4k. So I have to do it manually. Sorry I like to talk about car crap...lol.
    Sometimes I think maybe it has way more compression than it is supposed to have. My 289 was 10:1 cast heads and i timed it at 8 with points and never had no ping or nothing. But that was the factory balancer etc. I have to finish my life project the 68 mustang vert sunlit gold, black interoir and top to hear the 289 again. I love those engines for some reason.
    Last edited by 78futura; 05-06-2019 at 08:55 PM.

  21. #21

    Default

    Depending which Holley it is, with that much camshaft, and with an air gap intake, it would quite likely appreciate a few thousandths of an inch bigger primary idle feed restrictions... also a possibly good reason that the pinging you're experiencing is going on (a bit lean primary idle/transition). You said it's a 600 vacuum secondary, so 0.026" are good in them (1-9/16" throttle bores) when the camshaft/engine is stock or mild... and that size, 0.026", is often enough what comes in them. With a combination like yours, I'd be suggesting to start with (I drill and tap, and install adjustable 6-32x1/8" brass set screws, drilled for feed restriction size) 0.028" primary idle feed restrictions, and 0.070" primary idle air bleeds (also adjustable, for probable upping size step by step later with a little super-tuning experimenting to get lean-best idle and crispiest part-throttle throttle response and maximum cruise fuel mileage) with either 8-32 or 10-32 brass set screws, depending how big the boss is where they are... as well as maybe some added (also adjustable) transfer slot restrictions in the main body into the passages that lead to the transfer slots in some situations where idle vacuum is about less than half of what manifold vacuum is at cruise... because that is a situation where the idle and light part-throttle transition can be adjusted real nice, lean-best, but higher cruise manifold vacuum levels will "pull" harder on the idle circuit, if/when still getting fuel from the transfer slots (which is very usual, and not yet from the main circuits, the jets) letting it take in more fuel than is needed... an example of the unfair stereotype of even quite wild hot rod combinations with a carburetor, to be pigs on gas (also all the rage of the un-catted EFI hot rod crowd to boot, with the "stink" of the apparent unholy exhaust system consisting only of piping and mufflers, lol... though the solutions to their problems are much more complicated and incredibly more expensive to look into and remedy, if they ever even bother to remedy correctly, with best fuel administering at differing load levels with digital/electronic adjustments...), that that's just the way it is, "it's a hot rod, I'm obviously not concerned about fuel mileage", etc.... none of that stereotype nonsense is necessary at all. A well running or powerful engine is, and should be an efficient running engine, period. Anyway though, a bit of juggling with just the primary idle feed restrictions and idle air bleeds usually gets the surprising results that every combination has hiding in it. Function and potential mileage that can be had is surprising to say the least.

    No apology necessary, this car guy's "better half" rolls her eyes at me now and then, but smiles, LOL! Would be real nice to see the '68 too. The first car I drove had a very good working 289 in it, and stuff like that seems to make a mark on a car guy for sure
    Last edited by Walking-Tall; 05-07-2019 at 03:23 AM.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

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