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  1. #1
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    Default Cardone smog pump burnt out again

    I have been through 3 smog pumps in the 5 years I have owned my 84 LX 5.0.

    The original and the 2 replacements i put in. I got them at Autozone with lifetime warranty. its a Cardone 32-291 and now appears to be obsolete. I was hearing terrible squealing and noticed the idler pulley jumping like mad so i assumed that the idler was bad. it wasn't. After putting on a NOS idler as soon as I started the car the belt seized and smoked up. Low and behold, the smog pump froze yet again.

    So not only is this part not available at Autozone or Advance, my local parts store has one for $220. the price isn't the worst part, its the fact that these smog pumps are built like crap. I pulled off the pulley and the plastic impeller was completely melted. The smog pump was discolored golden like the whole thing heated up and the bearing the impeller rotates on was off center and froze.

    So I'm kind of stuck here. I need the secondary air for my stock cats so I prefer not to do a delete kit. And I want the car on the road ASAP.

    Does anyone besides Cardone make these smog pumps for our Foxbodies?

  2. #2

    Default

    Man i feel your pain. This is the one I bought
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C41KHG/

    way too much money. Squeals a little under strong acceleration. Looked like it was poorly rebuilt out of the box. I have aftermarket cats on mine with the air fitting. Don't want to destroy those either. grrr.
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    K&N filter in a stock dual snorkel, GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721 intake, MSD 8456 Dist., MSD 8227 coil
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers, catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals
    Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates and strut tower brace, 3.73 rear, dura grip (both Yukon)
    Ford Performance Springs, Firehawk A/S 225/55r16 on LMR TRX r390 wheels (street)
    Federal 595 rs-rr 245/40r17 and 255/40r17 on OE cobra r wheels (race)
    AOD rebuilt with a 6 clutch direct drum, Koline steels stacked with 8 clutches, Kevlar band, superior shift kit, new torque converter. --Everything else stock and fully functional.

  3. #3

    Default

    I wonder if we could use one of those cheap electric pumps you see on the amazon page?
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    K&N filter in a stock dual snorkel, GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721 intake, MSD 8456 Dist., MSD 8227 coil
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers, catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals
    Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates and strut tower brace, 3.73 rear, dura grip (both Yukon)
    Ford Performance Springs, Firehawk A/S 225/55r16 on LMR TRX r390 wheels (street)
    Federal 595 rs-rr 245/40r17 and 255/40r17 on OE cobra r wheels (race)
    AOD rebuilt with a 6 clutch direct drum, Koline steels stacked with 8 clutches, Kevlar band, superior shift kit, new torque converter. --Everything else stock and fully functional.

  4. #4

    Default

    Okay, "warranty" or not, what a joke... what's passing for (unnecessary anyway) product to sell (to you, over and over, like what, a daily sock and underwear change if you don't want to offend anybody? lol) is GARBAGE. Today, what else is new?... ... sorry to rant somewhat, but I'm nauseated nearly daily by what passes for apparent superior "technology", but is not, and will never be, PROGRESS.

    Must you run a "smog" pump, an air pump? You "need" the secondary air for your stock cats... why? Worried about your "carbon footprint"? Stazi "authorities" telling you that you must?... that, the perceived need, is highly debatable. I seriously don't know why you guys with fuel injection of this setup, or that, put up with all of this nonsense... none of it has anything at all to do with efficient internal combustion, saving the planet, eradicating stinky exhaust (this one, this point specifically, and with the perception that "cats" are needed for efficiency, knocks me off my chair laughing out loud), etc... if you don't own that car for the pursuit of the pleasure to drive it and as a good-functioning-for-a-long-time automobile, then I dunno what's going on...

    Again, apologies for ranting... all of the nonsense going on today gets under my nerves...

    Consider bypassing the nonsense and focusing on best function. All of the above, IMHO.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  5. #5
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by fgross2006 View Post
    I have been through 3 smog pumps in the 5 years I have owned my 84 LX 5.0.

    The original and the 2 replacements i put in. I got them at Autozone with lifetime warranty. its a Cardone 32-291 and now appears to be obsolete. I was hearing terrible squealing and noticed the idler pulley jumping like mad so i assumed that the idler was bad. it wasn't. After putting on a NOS idler as soon as I started the car the belt seized and smoked up. Low and behold, the smog pump froze yet again.

    So not only is this part not available at Autozone or Advance, my local parts store has one for $220. the price isn't the worst part, its the fact that these smog pumps are built like crap. I pulled off the pulley and the plastic impeller was completely melted. The smog pump was discolored golden like the whole thing heated up and the bearing the impeller rotates on was off center and froze.

    So I'm kind of stuck here. I need the secondary air for my stock cats so I prefer not to do a delete kit. And I want the car on the road ASAP.

    Does anyone besides Cardone make these smog pumps for our Foxbodies?
    Take them to court.

    A 31 pound per hour air pump is standard Thermactor 60s70s and 80s technology that has a standard 50000 mile waranty.

    Scre\/\/ anyone who messes with Federally mandated emission gear.You know what they did to Boyd Coddinton.

    Some useless, dishonest supplier has substituted in a lower grade of plastic.

    Any emissions gear has to pass a Federal duribility test, and any ISO, TQM or ASME approved material testing lab who has a spectrometer and the samples can have the plastic tested against a known in serivce original. The chain polymers have a known composition, its well known the bad suppliers have been saving on costs by sneaking in a non approved grade of plastic.

  6. #6
    FEP Senior Member Tigger's Avatar
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    Default

    In my opinion, they should either find you a replacement pump or refund your money since you have lifetime warranty. You might see if you can find a good used OEM one. I replaced the front bearing on my OEM smog pump last summer. 5K miles later the rear one failed. I did not have time to deal with getting the rear bearing and fixing it as I needed the car back on the road ASAP so I bought a good used smog pump one from a local guy that was getting rid of all his fuel injection and smog stuff. I have the p/n for the rear bearing now but have not bought it yet . I plan to fix my original one so I have a spare.
    67 Mustang Coupe
    96 Tangerine GT
    86 Saleen #179

  7. #7
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Default

    This is well beyond exceptable.
    As long as its had the 500 mile break in...


    You can get a used 31 lb/hr pump anywhere.

    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...-pump-question

    They need to front up. Take it to Judge Judy. They'll pay ever other dumb suker as well, and you'll look after the US parts industry.

    Don't over think this.


    Quote Originally Posted by 86Stripper View Post
    80sDave,

    Here are some photos of the components. I'll start first with the items I believe you will need and then move on to the items I believe you have and will need to check to make sure they are complete and eventually functional checks.

    Pump

    First photo is from below, second from above. The from above photo shows the pump and the pump elbow, hose from the pump elbow to the Bypass (Dump) Valve, Bypass Valve, a partial of the hose from the Bypass Valve to the Divertor Valve and the clamps. The clamps in the system are Tridon blacks with the Ford logo. Standard Tridon clamps will work but purists will likely want the factory black Ford logo clamps. Later model Mustang hoses and clamps (my samples are 1994) are different and have the clamps riveted to the hoses. 1986 clamps and the 1991 sample I have are not riveted to the hoses.



    Quote Originally Posted by xctasy View Post
    While on another project, I checked out #E1ZE-G2A ABE to #F6UA NDA. These are 81 to 95 era 31 pound per hour pumps

    The Secondary Air Injection Pump hardware is similar, but the EECIV pumps have TAB/TAD or DPFE electronically controlled.

    You can short belt the serpentine system and leave the TAB, TAD,and the EGR hooked up.

    All the vee OHV engines with sep belt were same as the historic 4.2/5.0 pump, which use a 4.5" pulley like this
    "1979-1993 Ford Mustang 289, 302, 351 Windsor" see http://marchperformance.com/ford-289...mp-pulley.html

    86 was a pivotal year, when Ford changed its time honoured external Thermactor and EGR systems control hadware to incorpate electronic EECIV control. But generally, all OHV sub 8 ton GVW passenger cars ran the same generic 14.06 kg/hr (31 lb/hr ) pump for years and years to 1995. Pretty much anything the same hard dimensions fits. Ford has an internal Fxx code for ones that swap.

    The 2.3 OHV HSC engined Tempo/Tracer were first for 84, but they ran 7.7 kg/hr 17 pound per hour air pumps (Ford Air Pump #E1ZE-D2B for 4 cylinder Escort, EXP, Fairmont, Granada, Mustang, pinto, Mercury, Bobcat, Capri, Cougar, LN-7, Lyn, Zephyr).

    Depending on the secondary AIR system, prior to 86, every 1981 to 1985 Ford used versions of the E1TE-9B289-AA "Smog Pump Thermactor Air Bypass Diverter Valve" with a 31 pound per hour air pump on 232-460 (3.8 to 7.5 liter) passenger or sub 8 ton GVW engines.

    1981 Ford Mustang 3.3 liter Emissions Air Pump # E1ZE-G2A was 31 lb/hr, but a different design.

    " Port in Housing" Cardone 32-291 is the generic type of 1981 to 1987 pump E1TZ-9A486-B Ford Econoline E150 E250 E350 1975-1987, but also fits 5.0 Mustangs till 1992, so it is 31 lb/hr.

    370/429 F-Truck stuff 1980- 19 91 to is 31 pound per hour, but of a different design (Nippon Denso/ Ford Motorcraft OEM Air Injection Pump - Smog Air Pump CX1009 E5HZ-9A486-A.

    NEW OEM Ford Smog Pump E5TZ-9A486-K Ford F-150 Bronco E-150 5.8 V8 1985-1987 CX1111 but is 17.44 kg/hr 38.4 pound per hour

    F53 are generally 85-90 F-Series pumps, but Ford rolled out EFI gradually in stages on the whole in line, bent six/bent egith engines. (Cardone Industries 32-301/32-607/32-623 Remanufactured Air Pump, Post carb era air pump eg 460 EFI)
    E1TZ-9A486-B

    The right way up.



    E3ZE-EB 31 LB/HR


  8. #8
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tigger View Post
    In my opinion, they should either find you a replacement pump or refund your money since you have lifetime warranty. You might see if you can find a good used OEM one. I replaced the front bearing on my OEM smog pump last summer. 5K miles later the rear one failed. I did not have time to deal with getting the rear bearing and fixing it as I needed the car back on the road ASAP so I bought a good used smog pump one from a local guy that was getting rid of all his fuel injection and smog stuff. I have the p/n for the rear bearing now but have not bought it yet . I plan to fix my original one so I have a spare.
    I talked to Autozone regional manger today and she was no help, neither was cardone.

    Cardone told me that they dont deal withconsumers only distributors and I need to take it up with Autozone. Also was told that cardone could rebuild my pump if the original vendor sends it back. Autozone refused to do this. They offered to refund me my purchase price if I give them the core. I told her I need to core to have it rebuilt. She says Oh OK, your're having it rebuilt, so its not a problem them.

    Excuse me, cardone offered to rebuild it if Autozone send it to them. No sorry, we dont provide service that way.

    I see NOS Motorcrafts on ebay but I'm having a hard time determining which is the same as the cardone I have

  9. #9
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    Default

    I found a E7TZ-9A486-A CX-1191

    Listed for 87 Ford Ranger but looks like mine. Will it do or should I only use CX-857?

    If I wanted to rebuild my old one I'm sure I can find quality bears, the issue is how to replace the impeller? Mine melted to a blob. I dont see an option for that as a separate part? Am i wrong?

  10. #10
    FEP Senior Member Matt J's Avatar
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    NAPA has them, I got one there and didn't have any trouble with it. Their site says the impellers are made from "carbon", whatever that's worth. There are two versions, one with the port on the end plate, and one with the port in the housing. Depending on which you need, one is half the price of the other, which luck being what it is, you probably need the more expensive one. I had good luck with their parts when I needed them.

  11. #11
    FEP Senior Member Matt J's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Walking-Tall View Post
    Okay, "warranty" or not, what a joke... what's passing for (unnecessary anyway) product to sell (to you, over and over, like what, a daily sock and underwear change if you don't want to offend anybody? lol) is GARBAGE. Today, what else is new?... ... sorry to rant somewhat, but I'm nauseated nearly daily by what passes for apparent superior "technology", but is not, and will never be, PROGRESS.

    Must you run a "smog" pump, an air pump? You "need" the secondary air for your stock cats... why? Worried about your "carbon footprint"? Stazi "authorities" telling you that you must?... that, the perceived need, is highly debatable. I seriously don't know why you guys with fuel injection of this setup, or that, put up with all of this nonsense... none of it has anything at all to do with efficient internal combustion, saving the planet, eradicating stinky exhaust (this one, this point specifically, and with the perception that "cats" are needed for efficiency, knocks me off my chair laughing out loud), etc... if you don't own that car for the pursuit of the pleasure to drive it and as a good-functioning-for-a-long-time automobile, then I dunno what's going on...

    Again, apologies for ranting... all of the nonsense going on today gets under my nerves...

    Consider bypassing the nonsense and focusing on best function. All of the above, IMHO.
    I feel your pain, but some states do require emissions testing and/or verification that the emissions equipment is still in the car. And it does work, for whatever that's worth. Still, I feel your pain.

  12. #12

    Default

    The bit that melted is not the impeller, it's a centrifugal air filter. Likely melted by the heat of a failed front
    bearing.

    The biggest challenge to rebuilding one of these yourself is that the front bearing is not secured by hardware.
    The front bearing has a groove machined into it's outside diameter, and the case has a channel, into which is
    injected epoxy, to retain the bearing. This makes it both difficult to remove, and to replace without breaking
    things.

    A while back I disassembled a reman pump that I was given, but had no plans to ever use. I was appalled at
    the utter garbage these rebuilders charge good money for.

    I would much rather find a good used original in a salvage yard, than ever use a reman pump. But time is not
    doing us any favors. Production engines stopped using full-time supplemental air systems quite a long time ago,
    so the supply of good used pumps is drying up.

    The differences between Ford air pumps is generally down to how they are mounted, and where the air exits.
    Mounting holes are not difficult to deal with, but changing a rear-exit pump to a side-exit is a little more work.
    Still, it can be done.

    I believe yours is a side-exit version, so you may want to have a look at the CX-624 instead of the rear-exit
    CX-1191
    Cheers,
    Jeff Cook

    '85 GT Hatch, 5-speed T-Top, Eibachs, Konis, & ARE 5-Spokes ... '85 GT Vert, CFI/AOD, all factory...
    '79 Fairmont StaWag, 5.0, 62K original miles ... '04 Azure Blue 40th Anny Mach 1, 37K original miles...
    2012 F150 S-Crew 4x4 5.0 "Blue Coyote"... 65 coupe, 289 auto, Pony interior ... '67 coupe 6-cyl 4-speed ...
    '68 Vert, Mexican block 307 4-speed... '71 Datsun 510 ...
    And a 1-of-328 Deep Blue Pearl 2003 Marauder 4.6 DOHC, J-Mod, 4.10s and Lidio tune

  13. #13

    Default

    Just a comment here FWIW.

    A couple years back I installed a smog pump eliminator pulley on my sons 80 cobra because I wanted to retain the stock belt. He drives it almost daily. The bearing on the eliminator pulley was squealing after about 5000 miles so I installed a new one thinking it was just a cheap bearing etc. Lo and behold the new bearing started squealing after a while as well.

    Got to thinking I must have had a bit too much tension on my serpentine belt. It was within the indicator range but at the tight end so I drilled an extra couple holes in the smog pump bracket which attaches to the block to give me a bit of adjustment to slightly reduce tension on the belt (back to the middle of the range) and have not had any noisy bearings since

    Possibly this might be a factor in your prematurely failed pump bearings? It seems that a little less tension made a big difference to the bearings in my case...unless I just got two bad bearings but unlikely imo.

  14. #14

    Default

    Not a bad idea, I suppose, but Ford never had issues with their stock air pumps using the tensioner as-is.
    Given that bearings are probably the first things the reman industry cheaps out on, it may extend the life
    of those pumps, but far better if we could get quality reman pumps instead. I, personally, have never
    experienced a failed original Ford air pump on any of my Foxen. The one on my '85 hatch has been a bit
    noisy for years, but knowing what I do, I'm not about to swap it for a reman.
    Cheers,
    Jeff Cook

    '85 GT Hatch, 5-speed T-Top, Eibachs, Konis, & ARE 5-Spokes ... '85 GT Vert, CFI/AOD, all factory...
    '79 Fairmont StaWag, 5.0, 62K original miles ... '04 Azure Blue 40th Anny Mach 1, 37K original miles...
    2012 F150 S-Crew 4x4 5.0 "Blue Coyote"... 65 coupe, 289 auto, Pony interior ... '67 coupe 6-cyl 4-speed ...
    '68 Vert, Mexican block 307 4-speed... '71 Datsun 510 ...
    And a 1-of-328 Deep Blue Pearl 2003 Marauder 4.6 DOHC, J-Mod, 4.10s and Lidio tune

  15. #15

    Default

    I got my cx-624 motorcraft NOS (40 dollars on ebay). Popped her on today. The car now sounds like a well oiled machine rather than a 40 year old chevette under the hood. Sadly... the acceleration squeal is still there (but less). It is an odd squeal that only shows up when I accelerate in a particular way. I have a higher end continental serpentine but perhaps that is just the belt slipping on something?

    Here are the two pumps. The POS cardone and the NOS motorcraft. Moved the bent snorkel to the motorcraft when I installed it.Name:  IMG_20190711_134002.jpg
Views: 613
Size:  97.2 KB
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    K&N filter in a stock dual snorkel, GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721 intake, MSD 8456 Dist., MSD 8227 coil
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers, catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals
    Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates and strut tower brace, 3.73 rear, dura grip (both Yukon)
    Ford Performance Springs, Firehawk A/S 225/55r16 on LMR TRX r390 wheels (street)
    Federal 595 rs-rr 245/40r17 and 255/40r17 on OE cobra r wheels (race)
    AOD rebuilt with a 6 clutch direct drum, Koline steels stacked with 8 clutches, Kevlar band, superior shift kit, new torque converter. --Everything else stock and fully functional.

  16. #16
    FEP Senior Member liv2roc's Avatar
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    I took my smog pump apart broke the impellers out of it now its just a idle pulley. did this 10 years ago still works fine. just make sure you get all pieces out and dont damage the internal bearings.

  17. #17
    FEP Member Mgino757's Avatar
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    I ran into those problems with my 85 as well. I went trhough 3 different pumps until I said to hell with it. I found a used ford pump from an 86+ GT and it's been good ever since. Every remanned pump I ran on the car was noisy, even after the break in. 2 out of 3 had broken filters on them too.
    1985 Mustang GT conv. modified 4180C, Weiand Street Warrior intake, equal length headers, true dual exhaust, 3.55:1 8.8'' rear end, 2003 V6 T5, Ford Racing 10.5" clutch.

    1998 Mustang GT auto. PI swapped. Daily beater

  18. #18
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by emerygt350 View Post
    I got my cx-624 motorcraft NOS (40 dollars on ebay). Popped her on today. The car now sounds like a well oiled machine rather than a 40 year old chevette under the hood. Sadly... the acceleration squeal is still there (but less). It is an odd squeal that only shows up when I accelerate in a particular way. I have a higher end continental serpentine but perhaps that is just the belt slipping on something?

    Here are the two pumps. The POS cardone and the NOS motorcraft. Moved the bent snorkel to the motorcraft when I installed it.Name:  IMG_20190711_134002.jpg
Views: 613
Size:  97.2 KB
    I tried searching ebay and Google for a CX-624 and get no hits. Even if theres none for sale right now I should be able to find a listing. Is there another part number I could search under?

  19. #19

    Default

    Here you go... Name:  Screenshot_20190803-160500.jpg
Views: 624
Size:  24.6 KBName:  Screenshot_20190803-160451.jpg
Views: 533
Size:  29.1 KB
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    K&N filter in a stock dual snorkel, GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721 intake, MSD 8456 Dist., MSD 8227 coil
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers, catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals
    Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates and strut tower brace, 3.73 rear, dura grip (both Yukon)
    Ford Performance Springs, Firehawk A/S 225/55r16 on LMR TRX r390 wheels (street)
    Federal 595 rs-rr 245/40r17 and 255/40r17 on OE cobra r wheels (race)
    AOD rebuilt with a 6 clutch direct drum, Koline steels stacked with 8 clutches, Kevlar band, superior shift kit, new torque converter. --Everything else stock and fully functional.

  20. #20

    Default

    Every part store smog pump I've ever bought failed within a few hundred miles. And then once you use up the local Supply they tell you they can't get anymore even if they can. Now I just walk around the junkyard look for engines that are pulled from trucks pull the smog pump out and then change out the accessories on the sides of the smartphone. I've had junk yard smog pumps covered in grease last a hundred thousand miles before
    2 1986 cougars (both 4 eyed and 5.0)
    1 1987 cougar

  21. #21

    Default smog pump

    Quote Originally Posted by fgross2006 View Post
    I have been through 3 smog pumps in the 5 years I have owned my 84 LX 5.0.
    I have a few rear nice clean ones that you can have if you pick up in Butler, Pa. Thanks
    The original and the 2 replacements i put in. I got them at Autozone with lifetime warranty. its a Cardone 32-291 and now appears to be obsolete. I was hearing terrible squealing and noticed the idler pulley jumping like mad so i assumed that the idler was bad. it wasn't. After putting on a NOS idler as soon as I started the car the belt seized and smoked up. Low and behold, the smog pump froze yet again.

    So not only is this part not available at Autozone or Advance, my local parts store has one for $220. the price isn't the worst part, its the fact that these smog pumps are built like crap. I pulled off the pulley and the plastic impeller was completely melted. The smog pump was discolored golden like the whole thing heated up and the bearing the impeller rotates on was off center and froze.

    So I'm kind of stuck here. I need the secondary air for my stock cats so I prefer not to do a delete kit. And I want the car on the road ASAP.

    Does anyone besides Cardone make these smog pumps for our Foxbodies?
    Have a few smog pumps you can have if you pick up in Butler, Pa. Thanks

  22. #22
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    So here I am 2 years later and the Cardone replacement I was able to get from Autozone has failed again.

    I re-read this thread and once again I am back to why can I not find a listing for a CX-624 anywhere? Even if theres none for sale right now, why is this search turning up zero hits everywhere I search?

    This POS cardone is now a $295 item at Advance Auto and I just plain refuse to spend that much on something I know will fail quick.

    Are there any other Motorcraft part numbers compatible with the pump an 84 Mustang needs?

  23. #23

    Default

    Would it be an option to use aftermarket cats that don't require secondary air, then eliminate the pump? Or is it needed for inspection, or integrity of the thermactor system?

  24. #24
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TxMike64 View Post
    Would it be an option to use aftermarket cats that don't require secondary air, then eliminate the pump? Or is it needed for inspection, or integrity of the thermactor system?
    Not just the stock cats. The car runs very poorly when the secondary air system isnt working right. Last year I had a rough idle, pulled a code telling me the bypass valve wasnt bypassing. I'm a stickler for keeping it stock and functioning.

  25. #25
    FEP Super Member Gemini1999's Avatar
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    What engine is this for? Is it a 3.8 six, or a 5.0 eight?
    Bryan

    1983 Mustang GLX Convertible

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