Close



Results 1 to 20 of 20
  1. #1
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Freeport NY
    Posts
    1,711

    Default adjusting rear quarter convertible windows

    While I have my interior out of my 84 vert I want to take time to try to fix the adjustment on the driver side rear quarter window. I have the convertible pamphlet that shows where the adjustments are. However it looks like I will have to remove the power window motor to get at the adjustments. So then I'd have to keep installing the motor to check the adjustment. Im sure its gonna take a few tries to get it right.

    Anyone done this before? Suggestions on how to approach it? I really want to get this done. All three other windows open and close perfect. The driver side rear is the only one I have to mess with.

  2. #2
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Freeport NY
    Posts
    1,711

    Default

    I finally got the determination to do my rear quarter window assembly. Took a good part of the day yesterday and today. I replaced the original plastic base that was cracked in half and put in an aluminum replacement from LMR. I also swapped out the guide bars and guide bar bushings with Motorcraft NOS parts I got off ebay like 3 years ago. Yeah I procrastinated on this one.

    Anyway. i got it all assembled and the function is smooth and runs great. the thing is my driver side rear quarter is still way out of adjustment. The lower guide bar has slots that run left and right to tilt the assembly. All the way right and the window is crooked, as it was before I did this replacement. Tilt to the left and the window is straight but the glass is so far forward that the driver door glass overlaps it.

    There's no adjustment I can play with the get the entire assembly to sit about 1/4 to a 1/2 inch to the left (back). The only thing I can think of is to remove the bracket that bolts to the frame and see if I can elongate the mounting holes to allow me to mount the assembly a quarter inch to the back. The bolt pictured in the lower right corner, thats the mount points I would need to get adjustment to.

    Anybody had a problem like this with rear quarters? Also, LMR posts motorcraft instructions to making adjustments that dont pertain to how my 84 is set up. Their video is demonstrated on a 2 eye so I assume there's some differences to the assembly on a 4 eye. Thankfully the passenger side rear quarter is in perfect condition. The original plastic mount is intact and the window closes perfect so I'm not messing with it.

    Name:  101-Resized_20190412_133146_8866.jpg
Views: 152
Size:  97.4 KB
    Last edited by fgross2006; 04-12-2019 at 07:28 PM.

  3. #3
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Freeport NY
    Posts
    1,711

    Default

    Since nobody is getting in on this thread I thought I'd update it.

    I found that the LMR kit is somewhat lacking. the bolt holes don't line up with the existing holes in the mount that the aluminum blocks fit into. I had to elongate one hole with a dremmel. Also I realized after a lot of trial and error that if the original rubber bumper stops are not still in place and in good condition you cannot even begin to try to adjust the rear quarter windows.

    In the Mustang Convertible booklet that part is called a front up-stop bumper which when Googled turns up nothing. Luckily I have a blow up diagram of the rear quarter window assembly courtesy of Matt Lazaic from NPD (Thanks Matt). That diagram shows the part and it has a listed part number of 21762 which when I Googled that it comes up as a bumper stop for 64-70 Mustangs. That wouldn't be the first time an old part from classic Stangs were recycled into use in Foxbody's. I attached the diagram and strangely enough that part is circled with an arrow pointing to it on the diagram. Whoever had that pic before me was obviously in need of the same part.

    Theres no listing for this up-stop bumper for 83-93 Mustang convertibles but I have a feeling the part for 64-70 Stangs is the same. It looks about right in the picture so I ordered a set from ebay. I also called LMR as a courtesy to give feedback and suggest they update their kit to include these bumper stops and to update their video which never mentions the bumper stops as well. How many people do you think struggled with the rear quarter window adjustments and never realized these bumper stops are what sets the stop point by bumping into a bolt head which itself can be adjusted to set the front to back position of the window when its closed. Without them its 100% impossible to adjust the rear quarter windows.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/1964-1970-F...ss!11520!US!-1

    Name:  1983-89 Quarter Window (1).jpg
Views: 126
Size:  56.9 KB
    Last edited by fgross2006; 04-16-2019 at 08:03 PM.

  4. #4

    Default

    Have just finished replacing the inner and outer window rubber dew wipes on my 86 and had to pull the the rear quarters almost completely apart to get to the center pop rivet for the outer rubber. Fortunately, all went back together without to much trouble. I have a huge amount of back and forth movement in both quarters, which kind of allows them to self adjust, but not enough to get that pop rivet in the middle.
    Cheers

  5. #5
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Freeport NY
    Posts
    1,711

    Default

    Another headache with adjusting the rear quarters. the passenger side doesn't go up all the way level with the front window like it shows in the convertible booklet.
    Name:  Resized_20190421_181956_8363.jpg
Views: 114
Size:  31.2 KB

    The next pic in the booklet says to loosen the two carrier bolts and adjust the window then tighten the bolts. The picture they show in the booklet shows slotted holes behind the carrier bolts.
    Name:  Front Up-Stop Bumper.jpg
Views: 114
Size:  28.5 KB

    Mine doesn't have those slots. Mine, as well as the junked rear quarter I picked up, have two exact sized mount holes to slide over the 2 studs. I need the passenger side quarter to go up at least 1/4 to 3/8 higher. I have no idea how else to adjust that.
    Name:  cropped_20190412_133139_19.jpeg
Views: 114
Size:  28.9 KB

    Heres a junked part with glass removed. this doesnt have slotted carrier.
    Name:  Resized_20190421_183732_7267.jpg
Views: 113
Size:  32.2 KB
    Last edited by fgross2006; 04-21-2019 at 05:42 PM.

  6. #6
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Freeport NY
    Posts
    1,711

    Default

    I know this thread isnt catching on but at least let me get opinions on this.

    I got my driver side rear quarter to line up perfect. passenger side I cant get the height exact like the convertible booklet says it should be. When the top is up its not noticeable but there is a slight gap water could get through in driving rain. my options are;
    Leave it as it and see if water gets in. in which case I'll have to deal with it later.
    Or, take out the power window carrier and use a dremmel to elongate the mounting holes so I can get some adjustment room. If I do that I will lose all my adjustments up to now and have to reset left/right, fore/aft as well is up/down.

    What do you guys think?

    Name:  quarter glass looks OK with top down.jpg
Views: 99
Size:  24.1 KB

    Name:  quarter glass off half inch.jpg
Views: 99
Size:  24.5 KB

  7. #7

    Default

    I've been watching this thread, and apologies that I haven't anything to offer, since my rear windows are still overdue to be adjusted correctly, as well as needing the replacement plastic bushings...

    A difference I'm seeing between the theoretical apparent slotted holes and none in reality... isn't the big nut showing in your pictures an up-down adjustment of the whole works for the window?... the junker you show has that nut about midway, and yours is at the bottom... surely there's some sort of up/down adjustment....

    If not, why not just add shimming of some sort of 1/4" (or 3/8" or whatever is needed) underneath where the top bolts are, under the steel flange that houses the plastic bushing, to hoist the whole works up that bit higher that you need?...
    Last edited by Walking-Tall; 04-29-2019 at 09:38 PM.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  8. #8
    FEP Power Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    San Mateo, CA
    Posts
    1,638

    Default

    I just got around to fixing the right rear window. I don’t recall any problems before getting a new top installed 1.5 years ago. With the new top the window would often work if put up before the top. After a few failures this past week, I pulled the motor out and expected to replace crush cylinders. What found was the crush pins intact but a broken drive gear. I rebuilt the unit using* spares from another unit.
    Fox Body/3rd Gen MCA Gold Card Judge
    84 SVO 24K miles, 85 Mclaren Capri Vert. 84 GT Turbo Vert.
    88 Mclaren Mustang Vert 20K miles, 89 Mustang LX Sport Vert,
    03 Mach 1 7900 miles, 74 Mustang II, 69 Mustang, 67 Mustang, 14 Mustang CS/GT,
    15 F150 FTX Tuscany, 16 F250 Crewcab, 67 Tbird 47K miles

  9. #9
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Freeport NY
    Posts
    1,711

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Walking-Tall View Post
    I've been watching this thread, and apologies that I haven't anything to offer, since my rear windows are still overdue to be adjusted correctly, as well as needing the replacement plastic bushings...

    A difference I'm seeing between the theoretical apparent slotted holes and none in reality... isn't the big nut showing in your pictures an up-down adjustment of the whole works for the window?... the junker you show has that nut about midway, and yours is at the bottom... surely there's some sort of up/down adjustment....

    If not, why not just add shimming of some sort of 1/4" (or 3/8" or whatever is needed) underneath where the top bolts are, under the steel flange that houses the plastic bushing, to hoist the whole works up that bit higher that you need?...
    Thanks for jumping in. let me first say that if you, or anyone else in here changes the guide bushings in your power window assembly for front or back do not use the Daniel Carpenter ones. They are junk. I replaced my fronts when I got my car around 5 years ago. They lasted less than two years before they were all twisted out of shape. They didn't even sit nicely in the guide bars after awhile. They moved around in all 4 directions when the windows were being lifted or lowered. Look up the part number (or I can post later) and do your searching on ebay for sellers that have NOS Mororcraft guide bar bushings. Sometimes hard to find but well worth the wait. Comparatively the Daniel Carpenter bushings are made of soft crappy plastic. The NOS Motorcrafts are stiff, firm and when they snap in to the guide bars they are semi permanent. I even noticed on the used rear window quarter I got last week the guide bar bushings were remarkably in tack.

    Getting that out of the way, I think you are correct about that large nut holding the pin for the regulator arm. That may do the trick. But it may be a pain to loosen or get the correct adjustment. I notice they are tilted opposite directions on both sides. I would have to keep the tilt and find the right spot to lift about 3/8 of an inch up. If that dont work I can try shimming the main assembly bolts one at a time to not upset the position. Not sure if I can reasonably get a 3/8 lift out of shims, maybe 1/4 though and I'll call it a day.

  10. #10
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Freeport NY
    Posts
    1,711

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Walking-Tall View Post
    I've been watching this thread, and apologies that I haven't anything to offer, since my rear windows are still overdue to be adjusted correctly, as well as needing the replacement plastic bushings...

    A difference I'm seeing between the theoretical apparent slotted holes and none in reality... isn't the big nut showing in your pictures an up-down adjustment of the whole works for the window?... the junker you show has that nut about midway, and yours is at the bottom... surely there's some sort of up/down adjustment....

    If not, why not just add shimming of some sort of 1/4" (or 3/8" or whatever is needed) underneath where the top bolts are, under the steel flange that houses the plastic bushing, to hoist the whole works up that bit higher that you need?...
    Just to follow up, I tried loosening the large nut and adjusting the position of the regulator arm mount but it didn't change the height of the window one bit and it threw out all my adjustments completely. Seemed like a good idea so I had to try but now that the passenger rear quarter is so far out I definitely cant leave it as is so next step is I will remove the entire assembly, find some dremmel tool to elongate the carrier mount holes and reassemble it.

  11. #11

    Default

    Dang... shoot, sorry... I guess if I was looking better, if you're already at the bottom with the nut like yours showed, moving the nut upward would lower the carriage... I wonder how yours got all the way to the bottom, meaning no more upward adjustment?...

    Regarding "I notice they are tilted opposite directions on both sides." ... I'm pretty sure it's just the way they end up rotated a bit from tightening the nuts.

    Yeah, slot the holes, or do some shimming... no other choice I guess... good luck with it.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  12. #12

    Default

    Damn - first time this thread has ever popped and said it had changed. GREAT info there! My son needs to work on the windows in his convertible too. Same stuff needed.

  13. #13
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Freeport NY
    Posts
    1,711

    Default

    Never let anyone tell you that the windows, in particular, the rear quarters on Mustang convertibles cant be adjusted perfectly. It took time and a lot of trial and error. But in the end I got my rear quarters just right. Just take some good advice;

    Don't install guide bar bushings from LMR or any other Mustang after market vendor. They are made by Daniel Carpenter and they are junk. The Motorcrafts guide bar bushings will last much longer. Take time and search on ebay or rear counter until you find genuine Motorcraft guide bar bushings. The guide bar mount kit sold by LMR is a decent part just check the 3 holes to see that they ling up before you try to drive the screws in with a screw gun. They have a design flaw where the two bottom holes are OK but the top hole is off center of the original bracket. If that's the case use a dremel to elongate the hole until you can get the 3rd screw in.

    Most important get the Mustang convertible diagnosis and service procedure booklet. There's a lot of adjustments and nuances to getting the rear quarters just right. you need that booklet. Do not attempt without it. the rears are significantly harder to adjust than the front windows.

    So here's my results,

    Gapping and height. The passenger side rear quarter is still about 1/16 lower but its insignificant. Driver side came out bullseye perfect.

    Name:  driver side.jpg
Views: 58
Size:  48.7 KB

    Name:  passenger side.jpg
Views: 58
Size:  34.3 KB


    Look at the way they line up with the top up. Cant ask for better than that. And a lot of places i went to declined to even try to line these windows up.

    Name:  driver side top up.jpg
Views: 58
Size:  25.4 KB

    Name:  passenger side top up.jpg
Views: 58
Size:  21.0 KB
    Last edited by fgross2006; 05-08-2019 at 07:42 PM.

  14. #14

    Default

    Nice! ... now, unless it's a secret, lol, please include the HOW you went about making provision for the up/down of it all...
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  15. #15
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Freeport NY
    Posts
    1,711

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Walking-Tall View Post
    Nice! ... now, unless it's a secret, lol, please include the HOW you went about making provision for the up/down of it all...
    First I took out the carrier and used a dremel to open the slots upward. The pic I posted prior shows they should have been slotted at the factory but mine and the donor glass I got from an 87 vert had 11/32 holes. Not slots. I actually ruined my carrier trimming the slots the wrong way (ooops) and when I tried to fix them the holes got larger and butchered. Lucking I was able to use the carrier from the donor glass and slotted the holes in the correct direction (up like it shows in the booklet). having slots with enough adjustment will give you ability to play with height. Also the position of the big nut holding the carrier arm pin has minimal effect on position. I suggest keeping it kind of centered because too far the wrong way and the rubber stopper will miss the stopper bolt head.

    As per these pics from the convertible booklet,
    The middle nut labeled rear guide pole controls position of the wedge guide. If the quarter window weather striping mushed against the glass when closing the window, that's the adjustment. The third nut on the right not labeled in this pic is the hard up-stop but it mostly controls the position of the division bar. If its close enough to hit the front glass that's the adjustment along with the rubber stop that goes in the slot on the carrier.

    What I found with mine was that even with all the adjustment used up, the bolt turn clockwise till it hit the bottom of the steel plate its mounted in, I still needed more adjustment. I tried removing the bolt and letting the two surfaces contact but the division bar was hitting the front glass that way. So I inverted the bolt and fed it from top down instead of bottom up. I set till it protruded a little and kept the nut on top to lock it down. I played with that until I got the division bar just right. I wish i had taken a pic of it before i put the rear seat and interior quarters back in.

    Name:  wedge adjustment.jpg
Views: 48
Size:  42.1 KB




    This pic is misleading, It shows a slotted hole in the door jam window seal. I have aftermarket ones the there's no slot so they had to come off. It also shows to use a screwdriver the adjust the stopper bolts position. In a perfect world maybe but mine had no worm-screw that would take a flat blade screwdriver. You need to access the bolt head inside the window cavity. Also the upper right hand corner shows a blow up angle with the head of the up-stop bolt having a big flat head. Makes sense since a rubber stopper has to mush against it. In actuality its just a common bolt head. Much smaller than whats shown but you can make it function with a new rubber stopper. Since nobody makes a replacement for our Foxbodies, this classic Mustang lower window stopper can be used but you will have to cut it into size with a razor. One of these will give you 2 stoppers if you cut them up just right.
    https://www.cjponyparts.com/door-win...-1970/p/HW927/

    One last suggestion. When you are ready to lock all your guide bar bolts into place have another person help you. With the top down, pull up the window slide it into the position you want and have the other person stand outside the car and hold the glass into place while you lock all 4 guide bar bolts. That helped me a lot.

    Name:  front upstop.jpg
Views: 48
Size:  33.8 KB
    Last edited by fgross2006; 05-09-2019 at 08:39 AM.

  16. #16

    Default

    There's nothing, and I mean nothing like important and needed information added to the friggin' internet, where previously there was seemingly none to be found. Thanks very much for starting this thread and posting this. This should help many with this complicated and often necessary procedure.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  17. #17
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Freeport NY
    Posts
    1,711

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Walking-Tall View Post
    There's nothing, and I mean nothing like important and needed information added to the friggin' internet, where previously there was seemingly none to be found. Thanks very much for starting this thread and posting this. This should help many with this complicated and often necessary procedure.
    Not to mention somewhat incorrect info in the convertible booklet. Showing options that just aren't there can be confusing.

    There's a reason I procrastinated this job for almost 3 years :-) I knew it was gonna be a headache. Two weeks leaving my interior out was aggravating but I'm glad I finally got it done, One last thing. The rear quarter window weather strip passenger side still bunches once out of 5 tries. i didn't want to mess more with the adjustment so I smeared a bit of grease on the edge of the weather strip and it helps it to slip into correct position. Hopefully in time it will seat itself and find 'home' every time.

  18. #18

    Default

    Oh yes, I am uncomfortably too familiar with the 'net and the world that is ABOUND with incorrect info.

    Same here... it's year 4 for me and I still haven't tackled them, lol! I'll try to make time/effort this summer. Thanks again, now there's certainly more clarity and correct information for what's involved.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  19. #19
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Freeport NY
    Posts
    1,711

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Walking-Tall View Post
    Oh yes, I am uncomfortably too familiar with the 'net and the world that is ABOUND with incorrect info.

    Same here... it's year 4 for me and I still haven't tackled them, lol! I'll try to make time/effort this summer. Thanks again, now there's certainly more clarity and correct information for what's involved.
    Also LMR's "instructional video" leaves much to be desired. LMR always throws together video's that make things look like a snap when they are not. They actually have a video that shows rebuilding a rear end in like 7 minutes when its a days long process. But the rear window guide bar assembly video the instructor puts it all back together and at 3:45 he simply says (and shows) to raise and lower the window and make adjustments on the guide bars to check the fit. What he doesn't say (or show) is that you will have install and remove the regulator assembly plate several times in order to get to those adjustment bolts. There's access to the two lower ones that control fore and aft, but if you need to fix tilt in/out the regulator plate has to come off. And its tricky to get the plate back in. careful of one of the rear bolt hole protrusions that seems to snag on the interior frame every time you try to put the thing back in. You have to look into the convertibles well to see it and guide it into place.

    Also, look at the car they install this on and notice there's no front up-stop bumper in that car's carrier. The guy doesn't mention it and acts like he's not actually missing a vital piece of the assembly. I cannot stress enough that you CANNOT complete your adjustments if the bumper stops are dry rotted or gone. It's a vital piece of info they conveniently leave out. You will never get it to close correctly with out them as I discovered. The carrier in the car in the vid also does not have slotted holes as per the Convertible Booklet. And the rubber ring that sits at the bottom of the guide bar do not come with the LMR kit so you have to hope yours are in exceptional condition (mine were) or you will have a problem as this assembly does drop down and crush the rubber ring when window is fully down. I actually called LMR and told them about these things. I suggested they should ask a vendor to replicate the bumper stop and guide bar ring or at least give the buyer a heads up to use the lower window bump stop for 64-70 Stangs and slice it to size with a razor. Not to mention they should update the video or ad an addendum to it.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jK6NQkk3ftA
    Last edited by fgross2006; 05-10-2019 at 08:48 AM.

  20. #20

    Default

    Good help, thank you! My wife purchased a 91 2 weeks ago and I am battling the rear windows. The passenger side was replaced at one time and they didn't reinstall the guide bar!!! Pieces were missing everywhere on the window. I collected them all and have put it back together but adjusting it is not a lot of fun. I didn't even know the bumper stop existed until this write up. I figured out how the regulator moves the window forward at the last of its movement but I have been working it manually to get the adjustments close. Did anyone find the front bump stop, and if so, where and part # please.

    Kenny

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •