Alarm Wiring Exorcism

[tbirdman]

I am trying to exorcise some of the alarm wiring that was in the car when I bought it. I was able to remove the alarm horn and some relays, but I'm worried about working on a section of wiring that is near the starter relay. There is a wire that has a rubber push on end the attaches to a post on the starter relay. I know this wire is factory, it usually is red. I know it has to be pushed on to the starter post for the car to start, as one day I accidentally disconnected it and was running around trying to figure why the car wouldn't start. Problem is, the wire has been cut a few inches from the end, and another section of wire attached to it, which now goes into a relay above the fender apron...



So I know I can't just cut this relay out, otherwise the car won't start. The red wire with the push on connector, what does the other end connect to, and can I source a replacement for this?

Thanks guys.

[swearint]

That wire is from the ignition, it causes the solenoid to close and send power to the starter. If I remember correctly, it is a reddish-pink with a blue stripe. It is in that large bundle the relay is zip-tied to. In the picture, it looks like it is that other taped wire resting on the small connector.

[tbirdman]

Yes. It looks like the other side of that wire, the reddish/pink wire with blue stripe (which has also been cut and spliced with black wire) goes into the same relay. So I'm guessing the only way of repairing that is to resolder it together? I need it to start the car, correct?

Plus, I've discovered another issue. I found a wire coming out of the main harness in the same area that has a black cylindrical shape piece of hard rubber immediately after it comes out of the harness. It's hard to tell, but it looks like the wire before the black piece is orange/black. After the black cylinder part the wire is blue. The blue wire is about 6" long, and went into a 20 ga fusible link. The other end of that fusible link had been pulled out and wasn't connected to anything. Any idea what that is for? I've checked my EVTM but can't find anything. The only other thing I see that should be connected to the starter relay with a 20 ga fusible link is the fog lights, but it looks like that should be black wire with yellow dots?

[KevinK]

I removed the alarm on my 92. It was pretty simple. You already found the starter interrupt. The power lock relays, if used, are down in the kick panel. There may be a relay going to the coil power.

[tbirdman]

Automotive electrical is definitely not one of my strong points. And whoever installed this alarm system in the car wasn't a professional. As I said, I've succeeded in getting about half of it out. Mostly what as at the front of the engine bay and some wiring in the passenger compartment. There's a big black box zip tied under the dash frame on the driver's side that I've cut most of the wires to. There is non-factory corrugated tubing coming out of the firewall on the driver's side into the engine compartment, but it's a tangled mess, and I'm worried that some of the alarm wiring is spliced into the factory harnesses and I don't want to go cutting things that I shouldn't be. I can pretty easily tell what is Ford wiring and what isn't, but like the case of the ignition wire where I'm going to have to make a repair, I just want to be careful. I can already tell that's it's not going to be easy repairing that ignition wire while it's in the car.

As far as that second issue that I was asking about, I think that wire has something to do with the fog lights. I misread the EVTM (was looking at the fog light setup for an SVO instead of the GT). The wire coming from the 20 ga. fuse link on the GT models is orange/black. Now I need to find out what I need to do to repair it and where the other end is supposed to be connected to.

[KevinK]

So I have a manual here for an alarm (Code Alarm). After reviewing the instructions, there is not much too it.
1. Starter interrupt. Just splice the wire back on at the starter relay. If it’s too short, you can buy a new right angle lead.
2. Ignition interrupt. It seems they don’t use this.
3. Lights or parking lights to blink on alarm activated. Just an add on wire. Clip it and cover the exposed wire.
4. Siren. Remove the added horn and wires.
5. Valet/override switch. Remove it and the wires.
6. Power door locks. For Ford these required the factory wires to be cut and splice in the alarm relays for remote locks. Remove the alarm added wires and splice the original wires back together usually at the drivers side kick panel.
7. The alarm requires constant power and switched power. Just remove the added wires usually at the ignition switch on the steering column.
8. Lastly remove the added wires for the remote trunk release. Located probably on the left side of the glove box.
9. There may be some added wires or switches to the door open, hood open and shock sensors.
10. Remove the module.

[tbirdman]

There was a plunger switch for the hood on the driver's side which I removed, plus a flasher relay wrapped up in electrical tape that was screwed on top of the radiator support near the passenger side ground screw. I also removed the big a _ _ horn that was installed between the washer reservoir and the radiator.

The alarm wiring harnesses on both sides of the engine bay had a single black wire coming out that appear to go into the headlight harness. I cut the one on the driver's side. I will wait until I can repair the ignition wire before I do anything with the passenger side. There was a toggle switch mounted in the bottom of the fuse cover. That was removed, as was a red light that was crudely screwed in the center console, which cracked the console. I just installed a console that was in much better condition. I'll see if the black box under the dash has any additional wires coming out of it. I already cut the wires that went to the toggle switch and the red light, as well as wires that go through the firewall.