Need to rebuild the T5 out of my Convertible, it’s a WC T5 from an ‘88.
Where’s the best place to get the most complete rebuild kit!
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Need to rebuild the T5 out of my Convertible, it’s a WC T5 from an ‘88.
Where’s the best place to get the most complete rebuild kit!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
the rebuild kits are too comprehensive and include a TON of non wear items, and you pay dearly for that. Generally the only things that wear in a t5 are the synchros and second gear and the 1/2 slider. Bearings are almost always ok..keys, springs, all non wear items. The plastic shift fork tabs often can be re used, but if they show signs of wear, replace those. I've been building for shy of 15 years now, and that's my experience. I'll take the t5 apart, mic out 1 and 2 synchros (134-136k for brand new thickness) then inspect the gap between the 3 and 4 synchros..too little gap the synchro is shot..I have lately been getting the synchrotech synchros sold on ebay. $160ish for a full set.
My advice is to take the trans apart first and inspect everything. Post pictures here if you like. If you buy the full rebuild kit, which costs you 350-400 now, then replace the worn gears on top of that, you'll come out higher then if you bought one already rebuilt by someone else. Keeping costs down is key.
for second gears, get the one from amp distributing, assuming you need one..those are one piece, unlike the 2 piece chinese ones that come apart.
Other then that gear, ebay, thegearbox, astro performance, or hanlonmotorsports are all great places to buy the t5 parts
Jeremy
-86 mustang SSP X CHP Unit # 3788-bone stock & staying that way
-66 Mustang, bench seat car,8.8,t5 fuel injected 92 engine
-72 Maverick 5.0 resto in process
-12SS Camaro 6 speed. 600 FWHP, Kraftwerks Supercharger
-03 z71 Avalanche 9" lift on 35s Daily Driven 20k a year. 290k miles at 11.8 mpg
Entire 1986 electrical and vacuum troubleshooting manual download
http://slantnosefox.com/picturehosti...g%20manual.zip
Thanks for the advice,
My buddy has it and has it apart,
I don’t know a lot about transmissions but he says 3rd gear is broken and it needs synchros. We both expected that a kit would be the best idea but maybe not.
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The Ford racing kit is the most inclusive kit avail. It doesn't include gears and is probably $400 or close by now. What's his experience level? He should be able to look at the entire thing and know exactly what is worn and what it needs. That kit is mostly full of non wear items.
Jeremy
-86 mustang SSP X CHP Unit # 3788-bone stock & staying that way
-66 Mustang, bench seat car,8.8,t5 fuel injected 92 engine
-72 Maverick 5.0 resto in process
-12SS Camaro 6 speed. 600 FWHP, Kraftwerks Supercharger
-03 z71 Avalanche 9" lift on 35s Daily Driven 20k a year. 290k miles at 11.8 mpg
Entire 1986 electrical and vacuum troubleshooting manual download
http://slantnosefox.com/picturehosti...g%20manual.zip
Thanks, I’ll tell hem to just buy what he needs.
Friend is a tech at a dealership and he’s done two AOD’s for me in the past but does mostly newer stuff based on what the computer tells him to do. He doesn’t normally have to order parts as part of his job so he asked me to check my sources for parts before he starts spending my money.
It’s funny hearing someone refer to a t5 as old technology.
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http://www.5speeds.com
This guy here is great to deal with. I've bought quite a bit from him. He doesn't try to sell me anything I don't need. Just have your buddy get an idea of what parts he needs and give him a call. He'll help walk him through it.
Agreed I bought my T5 rebuild parts through 5speeds as well. Very good to deal with !!
I also got some new shift lugs (mine had some wear) and an upgraded heavy duty shift finger...stuff that was not really available anywhere else that I could find. In addition he also gave me a discount on the upgraded steel cluster support plate.
I'm glad you reminded me of that shift finger. I have the same one, along with some other parts from him for my next t5 build. I'm building a mild 351w for it now and swapping to a t5 (was auto). With a few upgrades, the t5 should be ok. The car will be for my wife and she's way too easy on them lol
Aldeanfan,
I sent you a pm
Yes I believe the heavy duty shift fingers started appearing stock in the latest models of T5 (maybe 99-03).
If you compare the heavy duty to an older one there is definitely a difference in the way they are constructed. Its not that costly of an upgrade part if you already have it all disassembled for rebuild.
Not necessary. I've rebuilt at least 100 T5s and never had an issue with those
Jeremy
-86 mustang SSP X CHP Unit # 3788-bone stock & staying that way
-66 Mustang, bench seat car,8.8,t5 fuel injected 92 engine
-72 Maverick 5.0 resto in process
-12SS Camaro 6 speed. 600 FWHP, Kraftwerks Supercharger
-03 z71 Avalanche 9" lift on 35s Daily Driven 20k a year. 290k miles at 11.8 mpg
Entire 1986 electrical and vacuum troubleshooting manual download
http://slantnosefox.com/picturehosti...g%20manual.zip
I bought everything I needed from Jeremy (V8 Only) , a few years ago .
He also answered any questions I had .
Rebuilt to Z spec , and works flawless still today , even after many bottles of the juice .
clowns to the left of me , Jokers to the right
I usually replace the front and rear seals, synchro rings, synchro keys, 1-2 slider if it needs it, and 2nd and 3rd gears if they need it. also all snap rings and spring clips. Put a steel front bearing retainer on too. If the trans is noisy might as well get all new bearings too. The master kit from ford racing will work if the trans is noisy.
85 G.T. All motor
337 c.i.d 11.44-120 mph
1984 1/2 G.T. 350 (13.01-106 mph)
1984 G.T. (Daughters car)
1986 G.T. (Son's car) (12.99-105 mph)
5speed.com or gearbox same guy and don't look back
Best bearings you can buy
Lmr steel retainer does not fit that bearing on the input shaft bore
I had to remove .002 thousandths from this bore to fit 5 speed.coms bearing which is premium quality and matches the borg warner dimension
Lmr has most likely a sleu of bad retainers but they may work with Chinese bearings
For me it was measured with bore gauge and lathe was used to remedy the fitment
Good luck
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